[Forzanerazzurri]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

Not sure what your manual says. Mine (online) now says 6,000

Interesting. Here's mine.

[Needsdecaf]

Well that is conclusive proof that the 2024’s are superior. ��

Seriously though, that’s odd.

[kgelfen360]

Seems like urs has more simplified version and they used in between number which is 5500 and the other one has 5000 and then 6000.
In reality probably makes zero difference.

[Forzanerazzurri]

Ya sorry about that fellas. I had no idea they changed that.

[MT6]

Originally Posted by Forzanerazzurri

Interesting. Here's mine.

I knew I had read 5500 RPM for breakin at this forum and after all was said and done I read my manual and it said 5K RPM for first 600 miles

Oh well

[kjx]

Originally Posted by kgelfen360

What’s the purpose of “gentler on drivetrain”?
U saving it or something ?

I'm sensitive to drivetrain wear (on all ZF BMWs). I can tell the difference between the drivetrain when new, at 5000 miles, 10K miles, 15K miles, etc. even when care is taken. I've seen this play out a little differently in my M-sport 435i, my X5 45e, and my M4. The M4 is the most resilient to 'aging' by far.

Specifically these things cause drivetrain wear in my experience:
- pushing hard before everything's fully warmed up.
- pushing too hard, too long (excessive acceleration and braking repeated rapidly, many times especially when it's hot out)
- launch control (BMW's already documented it)
- repeatedly going hard on and off throttle at high speed (>110 mph) and high rpm (>6K rpm). Specifically if you're tailing someone aggressively who's terrible with their own throttle input. The rocking motion in the transmission does something that can only be described as 'play' (transmission-internal delay between engine push and engine braking) - this play remains permanently and is replicated only in those same high-speed conditions. I'm guessing wear on specific gear grooves or something inside the transmission.

And these are the symptoms I don't like:
- very first shift from first to second when cold can jerk (engine spins a bit before second engages very abruptly - feels like dropping the clutch in manual). Not there at low mileage, becomes persistent at 40K miles+ (in 435i).
- jerky transmission shifts in stop and go - going from 2 to 1 (car selected) especially can become abrupt (dropping the clutch kind of feel). In my first BMW, this symptom first appeared at 6K miles. It's barely there in my M4 at 16K miles (but it's also not 100% like when it was new either). It's not there in the 45e due to electric assist.
- engine "over-rev" in fully automatic Sports+ shifting. My 435i at 50K+ miles would bounce the rev limiter between 1st and 2nd when the car was not engaging 2nd fast enough and the engine kept getting gas.
- torque convertor slippage. Long before this is a problem that throws a code, you can feel it at high-rev shifting. Engine revs translating into a 'push' after a shift becomes less instant and feels like the torque convertor is sliding briefly when fully engaged.

From experience owning BMWs from new, and given how much I want my M4 to feel all through ownership (at least 5 years), I avoid unnecessary, short-thrill, 'high-cost' behaviors and focus on hard driving in ways that don't put much of a toll on the car (relatively).

I'm glad to be able to have learnt all this before the G82. And it's also why you'll never see me buy a used car.

[Forzanerazzurri]

Originally Posted by kjx

I'm sensitive to drivetrain wear (on all ZF BMWs). I can tell the difference between the drivetrain when new, at 5000 miles, 10K miles, 15K miles, etc. even when care is taken. I've seen this play out a little differently in my M-sport 435i, my X5 45e, and my M4. The M4 is the most resilient to 'aging' by far.

Specifically these things cause drivetrain wear in my experience:
- pushing hard before everything's fully warmed up.
- pushing too hard, too long (excessive acceleration and braking repeated rapidly, many times especially when it's hot out)
- launch control (BMW's already documented it)
- repeatedly going hard on and off throttle at high speed (>110 mph) and high rpm (>6K rpm). Specifically if you're tailing someone aggressively who's terrible with their own throttle input. The rocking motion in the transmission does something that can only be described as 'play' (transmission-internal delay between engine push and engine braking) - this play remains permanently and is replicated only in those same high-speed conditions. I'm guessing wear on specific gear grooves or something inside the transmission.

And these are the symptoms I don't like:
- very first shift from first to second when cold can jerk (engine spins a bit before second engages very abruptly - feels like dropping the clutch in manual). Not there at low mileage, becomes persistent at 40K miles+ (in 435i).
- jerky transmission shifts in stop and go - going from 2 to 1 (car selected) especially can become abrupt (dropping the clutch kind of feel). In my first BMW, this symptom first appeared at 6K miles. It's barely there in my M4 at 16K miles (but it's also not 100% like when it was new either). It's not there in the 45e due to electric assist.
- engine "over-rev" in fully automatic Sports+ shifting. My 435i at 50K+ miles would bounce the rev limiter between 1st and 2nd when the car was not engaging 2nd fast enough and the engine kept getting gas.
- torque convertor slippage. Long before this is a problem that throws a code, you can feel it at high-rev shifting. Engine revs translating into a 'push' after a shift becomes less instant and feels like the torque convertor is sliding briefly when fully engaged.

From experience owning BMWs from new, and given how much I want my M4 to feel all through ownership (at least 5 years), I avoid unnecessary, short-thrill, 'high-cost' behaviors and focus on hard driving in ways that don't put much of a toll on the car (relatively).

I'm glad to be able to have learnt all this before the G82. And it's also why you'll never see me buy a used car.

What about from track use? I have tracked the car, I'm at 12,000 km and the car doesn't even feel broken in yet.

[kjx]

Originally Posted by Forzanerazzurri

What about from track use? I have tracked the car, I'm at 12,000 km and the car doesn't even feel broken in yet.

Unless you're perpetually drag racing, with implicit rev-matching and shifts at higher speeds being less bothersome to the transmission, I don't think it really matters in most track scenarios.

All the 1st/2nd shifts - either from launch control or just rough low-speed driving (especially stop-and-go) - that's where I feel most of the damage occurs.

The engine itself is brilliant, and you're right, it is very "heavy"/tight when new and only progressively feels less restrictive as the miles pile on. 15K feels different from 12K. I expect 25K to feel very marginally different from 15K. It diminishes out from there (going by previous cars).

The only thing about the engine, and this may be amplified in cars that track frequently, is that the oil degrading can be felt past 70% of the way to the service interval. It's quite obvious by the time the service indicator comes on, and it's easy to make out when the engine oil has been swapped out. I don't know if there's any impact to long-horizon engine longevity from BMW's long service intervals, but I imagine there is.

[NicolasB]

Well, I go in for my service this Friday and was pretty sure I was doing a good job with everything keeping below 5,500 RPMs and varying my speed and load. However, somehow in all of my reading on here and getting ready for the new car, I missed the part about not using full throttle during break in. That seems a little silly to me that they think you shouldn't use full throttle, but oh well, it is what it is. I'm pretty sure that will make zero difference in the long run, but good to know I guess. Not going full throttle for the first 900 miles I think would be impossible for me 😄

I'm always very careful about letting the car warm up gradually and not getting on it until the oil temperature is over 180. I think just letting things warm up properly is the biggest thing you can do for longevity, and then not shocking the drivetrain as the other person mentioned up above.

[bimmerCHAOS]

Originally Posted by NicolasB

Well, I go in for my service this Friday and was pretty sure I was doing a good job with everything keeping below 5,500 RPMs and varying my speed and load. However, somehow in all of my reading on here and getting ready for the new car, I missed the part about not using full throttle during break in. That seems a little silly to me that they think you shouldn't use full throttle, but oh well, it is what it is. I'm pretty sure that will make zero difference in the long run, but good to know I guess. Not going full throttle for the first 900 miles I think would be impossible for me 😄

I'm always very careful about letting the car warm up gradually and not getting on it until the oil temperature is over 180. I think just letting things warm up properly is the biggest thing you can do for longevity, and then not shocking the drivetrain as the other person mentioned up above.

Same. I may have been a a tad aggressive with the throttle from time to time during the break in ... but only after everything was warmed up. Did everything else right, though, so I've decided I'll just put it out of mind and not give it another thought. But, yeah, resisting full throttle for 1,000+ miles (even only up to 5k rpms) probably would not have been feasible for me, in any case.

By the way, for what it's worth: When I picked mine up after break-in service last week, I immediately noticed a difference/improvement with the shifter. Ever since getting the car, shifting into 1st (even when first turning the car on, if it was in neutral) felt pretty seriously notchy and tight; I chalked it up to what everyone always says about BMW manuals, and figured it was normal. But the service dept. clearly must have adjusted something slightly during my appointment, because from the very first shift into 1st gear upon picking it up, it felt quite a bit smoother and less resistant. It's still not what I'd call perfect (still a bit too tight) -- but definitely a clear improvement.

Totally unrelated, but I'll be even happier with the shifter if I can stop my occasional overshot of 2nd gear when I'm doing a quick downshift from 4th or 5th to 2nd! At least 2 times in the last few weeks I've managed to pull it too far to the left (jumping over 2nd) during one of those more spirited or 'urgent' downshift efforts ... finding myself in no-man's land below reverse instead of dropping into 2nd. So annoying! But, yeah, that one's just user error I guess.

[NicolasB]

Originally Posted by bimmerCHAOS

Same. I may have been a a tad aggressive with the throttle from time to time during the break in ... but only after everything was warmed up. Did everything else right, though, so I've decided I'll just put it out of mind and not give it another thought. But, yeah, resisting full throttle for 1,000+ miles (even only up to 5k rpms) probably would not have been feasible for me, in any case.

By the way, for what it's worth: When I picked mine up after break-in service last week, I immediately noticed a difference/improvement with the shifter. Ever since getting the car, shifting into 1st (even when first turning the car on, if it was in neutral) felt pretty seriously notchy and tight; I chalked it up to what everyone always says about BMW manuals, and figured it was normal. But the service dept. clearly must have adjusted something slightly during my appointment, because from the very first shift into 1st gear upon picking it up, it felt quite a bit smoother and less resistant. It's still not what I'd call perfect (still a bit too tight) — but definitely a clear improvement.

Totally unrelated, but I'll be even happier with the shifter if I can stop my occasional overshot of 2nd gear when I'm doing a quick downshift from 4th or 5th to 2nd! At least 2 times in the last few weeks I've managed to pull it too far to the left (jumping over 2nd) during one of those more spirited or 'urgent' downshift efforts ... finding myself in no-man's land below reverse instead of dropping into 2nd. So annoying! But, yeah, that one's just user error I guess.

I've been having the same exact issue and having to reprogram my brain a little bit for this particular shifter. The one in my GT350R is incredible and so nice to work with. This one I've had instances going from fifth to 4th and accidentally almost going into second and then going from third to second I have also found myself in that no man's land below reverse, lol. I'm just getting used to letting the springs do the work and pull it back to center for getting it properly into fourth year. With a little more practice it will seem better I am sure. I've been driving manual transmissions for over 25 years, closer to 30, and this one is not my favorite so far. I do plan on removing that clutch delay valve and hopes that it makes me shifting in first and second a little smoother by putting me in control.

[bimmerCHAOS]

Originally Posted by NicolasB

I've been having the same exact issue and having to reprogram my brain a little bit for this particular shifter. The one in my GT350R is incredible and so nice to work with. This one I've had instances going from fifth to 4th and accidentally almost going into second and then going from third to second I have also found myself in that no man's land below reverse, lol. I'm just getting used to letting the springs do the work and pull it back to center for getting it properly into fourth year. With a little more practice it will seem better I am sure. I've been driving manual transmissions for over 25 years, closer to 30, and this one is not my favorite so far. I do plan on removing that clutch delay valve and hopes that it makes me shifting in first and second a little smoother by putting me in control.

Glad I'm not the only one! Yeah, I'm already getting much more used to it (including trying to smooth out the 1st-2nd shifts as much as possible, under all load scenarios); no doubt it'll just be second nature once we spend enough time with it.

I was toying with pulling out that little delay valve, too, but I'm not feeling brave enough to get in there and tinker with it just yet. Looks easy enough, but I'm not sure I trust myself not to F something up in the process. Obviously you had no problem pulling off your bumper and replacing the grill, etc. right away ... so you're in a different league than I am and don't have to think twice about it! I'll be interested to hear your impressions once you've done it; it seems like there have been mixed reviews -- some people swear by it, while others don't seem to appreciate much of a difference at all. (Also curious to hear if you end up noticing any changes with the shifter after the break-in service later this week, like I did. Although I feel like if it were a common thing someone already would have written about it on here....)

[kingikra]

As for OP question...
I did my break in "more" than properly. 4000 RPM first 1000 KMs and up to 5000 RPM till 2000 KMs. Obvioulstly the car is faster when you can pull till red line but in no way it feels faster.

Especially in heigher speeds. I think that the software uses lower torque when kicking down. When I got to 2000 KMs, I took the car to a highway near my home and squeezed the throttle in 120-130 KPH. Don't get me wrong, it is fast, but I was dissapointed about the pull feel. It didn't feel any stronger than my former cars and they were all 9.6 sec 100-200 KPH and above.

[NicolasB]

Originally Posted by bimmerCHAOS

Glad I'm not the only one! Yeah, I'm already getting much more used to it (including trying to smooth out the 1st-2nd shifts as much as possible, under all load scenarios); no doubt it'll just be second nature once we spend enough time with it.

I was toying with pulling out that little delay valve, too, but I'm not feeling brave enough to get in there and tinker with it just yet. Looks easy enough, but I'm not sure I trust myself not to F something up in the process. Obviously you had no problem pulling off your bumper and replacing the grill, etc. right away ... so you're in a different league than I am and don't have to think twice about it! I'll be interested to hear your impressions once you've done it; it seems like there have been mixed reviews — some people swear by it, while others don't seem to appreciate much of a difference at all. (Also curious to hear if you end up noticing any changes with the shifter after the break-in service later this week, like I did. Although I feel like if it were a common thing someone already would have written about it on here....)

I was a Porsche Master Tech in my previous life, so I am used to working on cars, especially fast/expensive ones.

[Needsdecaf]

So, had my break in service yesterday. It was rainy here, drives were short, and I was driving in traffic in a cold-ish car so no real opportunity to romp on it. But I swear, even in efficient, the car feels stronger. I'm going to guess it's just placebo, or me being more aggressive with the loud pedal though.....

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

So, had my break in service yesterday. It was rainy here, drives were short, and I was driving in traffic in a cold-ish car so no real opportunity to romp on it. But I swear, even in efficient, the car feels stronger. I'm going to guess it's just placebo, or me being more aggressive with the loud pedal though.....

100% placebo.

[Juanero]

Flooring the pedal can be a bit scary. It can get squirrelly; like the Pirellis just "can't even."

[Needsdecaf]

Originally Posted by Juanero

Flooring the pedal can be a bit scary. It can get squirrelly; like the Pirellis just "can't even."

My last car was a 997 Turbo S which would spin all 4 PS4S's during a launch control start. This car is no issues by comparison.

[chicagofan00]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

So, had my break in service yesterday. It was rainy here, drives were short, and I was driving in traffic in a cold-ish car so no real opportunity to romp on it. But I swear, even in efficient, the car feels stronger. I'm going to guess it's just placebo, or me being more aggressive with the loud pedal though.....

100% placebo. Full power is available from the moment the vehicle rolls off the production floor and BMW has confirmed this via their technical training documentation.

[Forzanerazzurri]

Originally Posted by Juanero

Flooring the pedal can be a bit scary. It can get squirrelly; like the Pirellis just "can't even."

Yeah totally....They are the main OEM tire for Pagani, Lamborghini and McLaren, but your M3 is definitely too much for them.

[Forzanerazzurri]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

So, had my break in service yesterday. It was rainy here, drives were short, and I was driving in traffic in a cold-ish car so no real opportunity to romp on it. But I swear, even in efficient, the car feels stronger. I'm going to guess it's just placebo, or me being more aggressive with the loud pedal though.....

They unlocked the second turbo

[Needsdecaf]

Originally Posted by Forzanerazzurri

Yeah totally....They are the main OEM tire for Pagani, Lamborghini and McLaren, but your M3 is definitely too much for them.

Not all tires are created equal, even within the same brand. Even on the same tire designation (PS4S star, N, etc. are not the same design). I've never met a PZero that I cared for.

Originally Posted by Forzanerazzurri

They unlocked the second turbo

Was kind of hoping they would have added a third, honestly.