[Geektechlive]

I bought and installed the Dahler valve controller recently. I mounted it in the same location as noted in the installation video from Kies Motorsports. It's tucked up inside the driver side back area behind the rear quarter panel. It's a wide open space. I tested the controller and it works fine. My issue is that from inside the car the remote and even the homelink mirror button i programmed doesn't seem to always trip the controller to open or close. It's like i have interference or something but i cant think what it could be. I can 100% activate the valve controller if i am near the back of the car. It only happens if i am inside the car for some reason.
I had thought that maybe i could find a grommet and then somehow detach the harness from the DAhler receiver box and relocate the receiver box inside the car in the trunk but it seems dumb that i would need to do that.

Has anyone else ran across this issue?

[Kinleyg]

Originally Posted by Geektechlive

I bought and installed the Dahler valve controller recently. I mounted it in the same location as noted in the installation video from Kies Motorsports. It's tucked up inside the driver side back area behind the rear quarter panel. It's a wide open space. I tested the controller and it works fine. My issue is that from inside the car the remote and even the homelink mirror button i programmed doesn't seem to always trip the controller to open or close. It's like i have interference or something but i cant think what it could be. I can 100% activate the valve controller if i am near the back of the car. It only happens if i am inside the car for some reason.
I had thought that maybe i could find a grommet and then somehow detach the harness from the DAhler receiver box and relocate the receiver box inside the car in the trunk but it seems dumb that i would need to do that.

Has anyone else ran across this issue?

I've never had an issue with mine using the homelink buttons. I opened and closed them a lot when I first got it but now mostly leave them open.

[Geektechlive]

Originally Posted by Kinleyg

I've never had an issue with mine using the homelink buttons. I opened and closed them a lot when I first got it but now mostly leave them open.

It's not just homelink buttons though. If Im inside the car the buttons on the remote fob dont always work either. If I get outside the car then they do. I just had my car tinted but I cant think of anything else that could be preventing the signal to reach the Dahler from inside the car.
Works fine if im outside. <shrug>

[smuttana]

You started having the issue after tinting? If so, some tint materials do interfere with blocking signals.

[Super_Tarnn]

Any updates on this? I have the same exact issue and have ceramic tint installed... Debating on trying to move the module into the trunk to see if it makes a difference.

[Geektechlive]

Originally Posted by Super_Tarnn

Any updates on this? I have the same exact issue and have ceramic tint installed... Debating on trying to move the module into the trunk to see if it makes a difference.

No updates. It seems to work better if I roll a window down so I think it’s the tint. I was waiting for summer here in Midwest before I tried to relocate the module. If you do move it please report back on if it helped

[BIGW0RM]

Certain tints are known to cause this.

[forcefed]

If you open the controller is there a wire dangling in it? That's the antenna, if you can extend it to inside the car it should solve the problem, but then you need to seal the box.

[Super_Tarnn]

Sigh, I see, then I don't believe just moving the controller into the trunk will help.

Originally Posted by forcefed

If you open the controller is there a wire dangling in it? That's the antenna, if you can extend it to inside the car it should solve the problem, but then you need to seal the box.

Good point, but I would assume that the antenna is integrated into the controller itself. But, if it is a wire that I can extend and I move the controller into the trunk, that should solve this issue.

[forcefed]

It could be integrated but you never know, try opening it up.

So now the VCS constantly fails, the dahler gets stopped by Tint and the Dinan can't be linked to the garage door buttons. We need more options 😂

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by forcefed

It could be integrated but you never know, try opening it up.

So now the VCS constantly fails, the dahler gets stopped by Tint and the Dinan can't be linked to the garage door buttons. We need more options 😂

SST 😀

https://www.sst-spezialsteuergeraete...7D1%7B10%7D404

[fanofbmwe46]

Originally Posted by chris3g

SST 😀

https://www.sst-spezialsteuergeraete...7D1%7B10%7D404

Interesting. Anyone have this one and can comment on performance and reliability? Is it available in the states?

[thompsac25]

This happens to me sometimes but I usually just click the remote one or two more times and it opens. I think its my tint as well.

[tom @ eas]

Awron Smart CanFlap. Fully integrated - no key FOBs or remotes to fumble with, while gaining full control over the exhaust valves with adjustable profiles.

AWRON - Smart CANFlap Exhaust Valve Controller for BMW
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1991762

[Super_Tarnn]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Awron Smart CanFlap. Fully integrated - no key FOBs or remotes to fumble with, while gaining full control over the exhaust valves with adjustable profiles.

AWRON - Smart CANFlap Exhaust Valve Controller for BMW
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1991762

Overall does seem like a better system. But doesn't it involve splicing into factory wiring? The main appeal for the dahler valve controller for me was that it is plug and play with no wire splicing. Since realistically, the use of these valve controllers will be temporary for me until warrenty is over and easy flash tunes are available where we can set the valves through a tune (like for the f80).

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by Super_Tarnn

Overall does seem like a better system. But doesn't it involve splicing into factory wiring? The main appeal for the dahler valve controller for me was that it is plug and play with no wire splicing. Since realistically, the use of these valve controllers will be temporary for me until warrenty is over and easy flash tunes are available where we can set the valves through a tune (like for the f80).

Flash tunes cannot yet the valves to 100% opening at this time, maybe that will change in the near future.

I've never heard of a valve controller causing an issue that needed to be diagnosed by a dealer yet. The Awron does require tapping into a couple of wires and not need any separate key FOBs. The install is relatively simple for the DIY and is 100% hidden on the installs we perform.

Enjoy your car. Keep the mods relatively simple and you shouldn't have any warranty issues.

[Super_Tarnn]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Flash tunes cannot yet the valves to 100% opening at this time, maybe that will change in the near future.

I've never heard of a valve controller causing an issue that needed to be diagnosed by a dealer yet. The Awron does require tapping into a couple of wires and not need any separate key FOBs. The install is relatively simple for the DIY and is 100% hidden on the installs we perform.

Enjoy your car. Keep the mods relatively simple and you shouldn't have any warranty issues.

Unfortunately and fortunately I have AA EL Midpipe and BMS intakes on order... And already had warranty denied for a driver side rear door card rattle due to tint...

But, thanks for the good words!

[Rodizzle]

Originally Posted by Super_Tarnn

Unfortunately and fortunately I have AA EL Midpipe and BMS intakes on order... And already had warranty denied for a driver side rear door card rattle due to tint...

But, thanks for the good words!

Bruh what ??? For tint ? 🙄

[Super_Tarnn]

Originally Posted by Rodizzle

Bruh what ??? For tint ? 🙄

Long story short, but I notcied that my door card would rattle and that it was not fully bedded into the door, hence the rattle. I thought it was prob a factory defect or something, so brought in to dealer under warranty (Didn't attempt to fix myself, cause I was like hey, I got warrenty, my mistake....). They told me that they won't touch the door card since I have aftermarket tint, and that they prob messed it up. Dealer said tinters usually pry or pop the top of the door card out when tinting. Tinter said they only usually pry the rubber seal only. It was already at the dealer for 2 weeks at this point, so I just told em to open it up and assess the damage (money out of my pocket for them to do that). They took it off and put it back on and said there is no damage... No more rattle now.

Overall, I should have just tried to pop it back in myself and I woulda saved both my time and money...

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by Super_Tarnn

They told me that they won't touch the door card since I have aftermarket tint, and that they prob messed it up. Dealer said tinters usually pry or pop the top of the door card out when tinting.

At this point they can say that because the tinter opened the door card he could have damaged the wiring, and if the wiring was damaged the dme got fried and thats why your engine blew up and the muffler bearings are shot...

[MagicF8x]

Works like a charm for months on now


https://irlllc.com/products/irl-valve-controler

[Hardeight27]

Originally Posted by forcefed

If you open the controller is there a wire dangling in it? That's the antenna, if you can extend it to inside the car it should solve the problem, but then you need to seal the box.

I have a dahler unit showing up this week. I will do some inspecting when it arrives to see if this is something worth attempting for me.