| 02-25-2025, 08:46 AM | #23 | |
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The Dunning-Kruger effect - Stupid people are too stupid to realize how stupid they are. |
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| 02-26-2025, 04:34 PM | #24 |
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Let's do another one. This is Charlotte, a relatively popular one for G8x fitments.
Charlotte | Satin Black | 20x10.5 / 20x11 Flush Fitment | BSPK Caps |
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| 02-26-2025, 06:41 PM | #25 |
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| 02-26-2025, 11:38 PM | #26 | |
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| 02-27-2025, 10:10 AM | #27 | |
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never could compete with Lloyd Braun
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Current: 2025 G80 M3 6MT | Boston Green | Tartufo
Former: 2022 G80 M3 6MT SG | KO, 2018 F87 M2 6MT | AW, 2016 981 Cayman 6MT | JB, 2015 F80 M3 DCT | TZB | GB, 2013 E92 M3 6MT | MW | FRB |
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| 02-28-2025, 10:18 AM | #29 |
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| 03-01-2025, 03:27 PM | #30 | ||
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I would add that I don't necessarily chase the lightest weight. I think all my wheels could be ~0.5 lbs lighter at the same load (never mind at a lesser load, as many wheel companies do) but I have a tendency to be quite conservative with my engineering (zero failures in three years and thousands of wheels shipped around the world). I have magnesium available for people who want the absolute lightest (and I will post separately about my mag offering and why my magnesium is lighter than other's). Unsurprisingly, though, it comes down to the quality of the material inputs and the engineering behind the wheel. My magnesium product is setup to be the ultimate so I am generally meaningfully lighter many other company's mag offerings. I made a post in the 827 thread yesterday in response to someone asking how my Anika could be lighter than the OEM 827 despite being wider and deeper and I'll repost it here because I think it's really relevant to weights and what goes into wheel weights in general. It also talks a bit about my approach to engineer, which I think is helpful context for anyone considering forged wheels in general. The post I am referencing: Quote:
First, let’s establish the facts. The OEM 827M wheels are already reasonably light: * Rear (20x10.5 ET20): ~24.2 lbs (11 kg) * Front (19x9.5 ET20): ~24.0 lbs (10.9 kg) (I've seen slight variations, but this is about the average.) By comparison, my wheels: * Rear (20x11 ET12): 24.2 lbs (11.0 kg) → The same weight as stock despite being wider and more concave. Plus, no spacers are needed, which effectively reduces weight. * Front (19x10 ET11): 21.4 lbs (9.7 kg) → 11% lighter than stock, despite being wider and deeper. For reference, my Millie design is slightly lighter than this because the spoke intersections are structurally more efficient, but that’s a different discussion. So now that we’ve got the facts out there, how do I do that? I feel like to really answer that question, I need to first establish how I do mine. I don’t know what load rating BMW uses. For the F80 they used 550kg front and 650kg rear - since the wheels were made by Fuch’s I was able to obtain the technical briefing on the F80 wheels (I’m resourceful, lol). Now with the G80 wheels they’re made in various places (Taiwan) and that data isn’t as accessible, but so be it. I do mine at 690kg because I think that’s appropriate for a 3800+lbs car. It’s not just the load rating, though. I use a 2.0 safety factor when doing the JWL tests (impact, radial fatigue, and cornering fatigue). To put a finer point on that, 6061-T6 has a yield strength of 276mpa so what that means is at the 690kg load, no part of my wheel experiences more than 135mpa of stress. What’s common in the industry is something between like 1.3 and 1.8 as a safety factor. I use 2.0 because I can get the weight to level I’m happy with and it makes for a much stronger wheel. An OEM like BMW likely uses something on the higher end of that range but a lot of wheel companies will skimp here (because no own really ever knows) to sell a lighter wheel but it’s ultimately compromised IMHO. I don’t ever aim to be the lightest aluminum wheel. I make magnesium wheels where I am always the lightest, the how on that is again, a separate discussion. Strong durable wheels make my life easier and my customers happy. It’s good for everyone. So now how can I achieve that while making the wheel as light as the BMW one? Again, I don’t know specification BMW uses but my guess would be a few reasons: 1. Production throughput. I make the wheel with a thinner pad and a deeper outer spoke. This allows for much greater visual concavity. A wheel that kinks and goes perpendicular to the flange (like the OEM front wheel) is actually more structurally efficient but visually the equivalent of a flat ass (and that’s not a sexist thing, man or woman, no one likes a flat ass). I digress, lol. That also makes for a thicker pad. That’s where a lot of weight gets trapped. That’s why I would imagine the front wheel on the OEM 827 is so heavy. It’s probably a very thick pad. I can’t really think of another reason why that wheel would be that heavy. So I’m using a thinner pad to make a better looking wheel. What that means though is that from a production throughput perspective, my wheel takes longer to CNC. That doesn’t really matter for my business. It matters a lot though when you’re pumping out thousands of wheels. 15 extra minutes per wheel on the CNC adds up for BMW. 2. I buy better blanks. I buy really deep blanks that allow for this. Blanks are sold by weight. Deep blanks are heavier and thus more expensive. BMW probably needs to use that flat kink on the outer edge because of the blank they’re using. The least expensive blank is that style (as little mass as possible so depth only in the center area). Again something I am happy to do in my business because I care about making the wheel look as good as possible. For BMW, who is making thousands of wheels, has shareholders and is concerned about margins, their calculus is different. Those would be the two primary reasons I can think of why mine is the same/lighter despite being wider and deeper. I would love to see the step file of the OEM wheel to run it through Ansys but that’s not something BMW is going to give me, lol. Thanks for the question, btw. If not obvious, I am quite passionate about my wheels (and anything I do via BSPK). I always welcome the opportunity to talk about my products/processes in a more conversational manner. Frankly, that is why I have ~90% market share in Alfa Romeo wheels. I have been making this type of post on those forums for years. I am pretty new to talking about my products on bimmerpost so welcome these opportunities to talk a bit more about who I am and what BSPK is all about. Thanks again! Here's Anika being milled (a little eye candy for anyone who actually read that, lol). Rear wheel: View post on imgur.comFront wheel: View post on imgur.comNote how the outer portion of the spoke is still sloping up to the lip of the wheel, that's what really gives visual concavity. |
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| 03-01-2025, 03:41 PM | #31 |
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On a G80 no actually, at least not that immediately comes to mind, on an Alfa, several. I will put a couple just to give an idea but any G8x wheel would be meaningfully more concave than a setup for a Giulia Quad.
Actually here's Charlotte in Gunmetal on a G87, not quite silver but kind of silver at the same time. |
| 03-03-2025, 03:53 PM | #32 |
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Time for another. This particular fitment is for a RWD car to run some pretty aggressive tires (305 rear out of the gate but setup to run 325 with the right camber setup).
Lena | Brushed Aluminum (Gloss) | 19x10.5 / 19x11.5 Flush Fitment | BSPK Caps ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() View post on imgur.com |
| 03-04-2025, 12:57 AM | #33 |
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100% recommend John and BSPK wheels- Charlotte here in custom Dark Gunmetal. Cant say enough good things about John and what he’s offering a few car communities with sourcing and pricing like this- simply can’t be beat. John also did my CF for my entire car. I trust John with his product, my money and my cars for sure! If you are tired of BS brands and vendors- talk to John.
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| 03-05-2025, 02:37 PM | #34 |
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This is a relatively new finish called Brushed Titanium. I have been revamping my finishes a bit lately - simply my nature to always be trying to improve my overall offering. Brushed Titanium is a really warm-tone, brushed grey that I think will really pop on a wide range of car colors.
Chiara | Brushed Titanium (Satin) | 20x10.5 / 20x11 Flush Fitment | Custom Drilled for OEM Cap ![]() ![]() ![]() View post on imgur.com |
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| 03-06-2025, 07:03 AM | #35 |
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That brushed Ti finish is sweet! For Frank's car?
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| 03-06-2025, 10:45 AM | #37 | |
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| 03-06-2025, 02:43 PM | #38 |
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His are 19x10 / 20x11. I think he has a 295 rear (iirc). I do a lot of 19x10 / 20x11 setups where people want to use their stock tires until they wear out and replace with a 285/295 setup (that's what I did when I first got my G80 - makes no sense to toss perfectly good tires). It's a good compromise if you want to go wider eventually. I also do a lot of 19x10 / 20x10.5 setups when people are confident they want to stick with the stock tires long-term (e.g. want to keep the BMW*).
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| 03-06-2025, 06:37 PM | #40 |
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Are any of your designs track day oriented? Ideally looking for something similar to the Apex Vs5r wheels in 19x10 ET12 square or other popular square setups for G8X.
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| 03-06-2025, 07:34 PM | #41 | |
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Absolutely. I have a set of 15 lb 19x10.5 square magnesium Charlottes on 285/35/19 Hoosier Track Attack Pros sitting in my basement, waiting for my first track day in April. That setup alone sheds 50 lbs of rotating mass compared to stock, and when combined with my CCBs, it cuts a total of 90 lbs of unsprung, rotating mass. I primarily track my 4C, but I’m definitely about that life. There’s nothing inherently special about the design of the VS-5RS that makes it a great track wheel—it’s a split-five, which is a solid starting point because of its lightweight potential, but beyond that, it all comes down to engineering. I actually do a lot of track setups with the Leora design because it’s exceptionally light and well-suited for aggressive track fitments. If you’re set on a square 10” setup, that’s typically ideal for running 275s, but if you’re considering 285s, you’ll get better performance with at least a 10.5” wheel. A more wheel / less tire setup improves lap times because it enhances steering response and stability - something that’s been empirically proven in competitive environments. I work with a lot of track customers, from recreational HPDE guys to competitive racers. I’d be happy to help you put together an optimized setup. If you’re interested in dialing in a lightweight track-focused fitment, feel free to shoot me a message - I’d love to help. |
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| 03-07-2025, 07:20 AM | #42 | |
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never could compete with Lloyd Braun
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| 03-07-2025, 08:38 AM | #43 | |
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Is it perfect? Probably not but it works fine and I have a lot of people do stock tires on 11" rear until they burn through the stocks. I also do 10.5" rears for people who want to stick with the stock tires long term. 275 on the 10 is the right fit imho (I can do John rant on why BMW shipped the car on a 275/9.5" setup another time, lol). These are stock PS4S on a 10"/11" setup (for clarity) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() PS - someone asked me if Charlotte is deep concave (don't remember if it was this thread or PM) - the answer is yes, extremely ![]() |
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| 03-07-2025, 03:33 PM | #44 |
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Another... This is probably one of the more popular G8x wheels I make, Millie (some nerdy humor in the name). This is actually my G80 for the eagle eye'd (there are some other pics of it floating around).
I have had five different setups on my G80 in the two years I've had it and this one gets far and away the most compliments. It's classic G8x in the best way possible IMHO. Millie | Brushed Celestial Gold (Gloss) | 20x10 / 20x11 Flush Fitment | Custom Drilled for OEM Cap ![]() ![]() ![]() and, on the car (this is when I was stock height FWIW) ![]() ![]() ![]() Let's close out hard with the concavity shot ![]() |
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