[Cyber Logic]

So as the title says, I need help finding a tool to tighten the nut at the top of the strut. Suspension Secrets provides a 22MM nut that you screw on that barely makes it past the body of the car when in it's highest camber setting. I was able to get it what I thought was tight with a 22MM wrench but after about a 15 min drive I started hearing a slight clunking. Drove the mile home slowly and found both top hat nuts were not loose. I tightened again with the 22MM wrench but I'm sure they will just loosen again. I can't get a socket over the nut since it's so close to body of the car... and the wrench is at a severe angle when tightening so it cant get a good grip. Any thoughts on how I can tighten this nut? Thank you!!!

[Cyber Logic]

Well I grabbed a 22MM Crowsfoot that is supposed to arrive tomorrow... Hoping that does the trick. If anyone else has any idea's please do share. Will report back on how it works after it arrives.

[Gang80]

It’s too late. Read up on vorshlags discussion of this. This can only be properly torqued at the time the strut is not on the car. At best, you can give it a couple shots with an impact gun.

[Cyber Logic]

Originally Posted by Gang80

It’s too late. Read up on vorshlags discussion of this. This can only be properly torqued at the time the strut is not on the car. At best, you can give it a couple shots with an impact gun.

Are you kidding me!?! I've been asking for help for months on how to install these and listed out what I was going to do in a previous thread based on what I'd seen others do and no one once mentioned this, everyone just talks about doing it by dropping the shock a bit and swapping them. I saw no mention of this bolt being a problem though.

I'm not exactly finding the vorshlag discussion you are referring to and a search returns quite a few... can you please point me to the thread you mention?

[moproblems]

Remove the strut and compress the spring, then tighten the nut. Or center the camber adjustment, torque the nut with a pass through socket, loosen the body to plate screws, tighten the camber adjustment bolts at whatever position you want, and finally re tighten the body to plate bolts. You are having trouble because you are trying to tighten the shaft nut with camber adjusted in.

[Gang80]

Originally Posted by Cyber Logic

Are you kidding me!?! I've been asking for help for months on how to install these and listed out what I was going to do in a previous thread based on what I'd seen others do and no one once mentioned this, everyone just talks about doing it by dropping the shock a bit and swapping them. I saw no mention of this bolt being a problem though.

I'm not exactly finding the vorshlag discussion you are referring to and a search returns quite a few... can you please point me to the thread you mention?

https://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Instruc...n-Instructions

This bolt is a known problem. It needs alot of torque during install and before bolting the plate/top mount back onto the car. Once its on, youre basically just spinning everything at the same time if you try to tighten it on the car and wont actually tighten very much. That or you risk over doing it. I dont like the SS design nor the lack of any customer support. For reference im at -3.2 in the front and have full access to that top nut whereas yours is essentially trapped

How bad is the clunking? There is added NVH when installing these. Maybe a video would help to determine if it is even in fact loose

[Cyber Logic]

Originally Posted by Gang80

https://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Instruc...n-Instructions

This bolt is a known problem. It needs alot of torque during install and before bolting the plate/top mount back onto the car. Once its on, youre basically just spinning everything at the same time if you try to tighten it on the car and wont actually tighten very much. That or you risk over doing it. I dont like the SS design nor the lack of any customer support. For reference im at -3.2 in the front and have full access to that top nut whereas yours is essentially trapped

How bad is the clunking? There is added NVH when installing these. Maybe a video would help to determine if it is even in fact loose

Thanks very much. The NVH was very minor actually until the very end of the drive when over bumps and under accell decel I would hear a slight click coming from what sounded like under the hood on passengers side, which is where the bolt was loosest.

I'm sorry to say I have to echo your statements on SS plates now that I have them. When I asked support for instructions, I was told "make sure the logo is facing the fender". That is all. Due to that I had a hard time trying to find a shop who would even try to install them leaving me to do it myself. Really regretting all of this at this point but too late now.

I'm wondering if I loosen the 4 bolts that hold the plate to the fender if it will then give me just that mm or two of clearance I need to get a socket around that nut. Then I just retighten. That's my hope anyway, waiting for some tools to arrive today and then I'll try again.

Really do appreciate your insights, just so frustrated at this point.

[Cyber Logic]

While the video looked convincing. I'm now seeing lots of people in comments stating what I'd previously heard that using an impact wrench can damage the strut, there are even some in the comments who say it happened to them. Several are mentioning using a crows foot (which is what I ordered yesterday) so I'm hopeful when it arrives today I can use that to torque it properly to 52ftlbs.

[Gang80]

Originally Posted by Cyber Logic

While the video looked convincing. I'm now seeing lots of people in comments stating what I'd previously heard that using an impact wrench can damage the strut, there are even some in the comments who say it happened to them. Several are mentioning using a crows foot (which is what I ordered yesterday) so I'm hopeful when it arrives today I can use that to torque it properly to 52ftlbs.

I believed one of mine were loose at one point and I spoke to vorshlag directly and they were the ones who recommended the impact gun, same with the shop that did the install. The trick is only doing 1-2 zaps max to avoid issues

Based on your description, the sound you are hearing may very well be just the monoball functioning as usual. If the top nut is meaningfully loose, you would hear actual banging and your alignment would be off.

Pro tip: i torque mark all my suspension including that top nut. So now i can just visually inspect that top nut between track days for any movement. When you do get it “tight enough,” i would recommend marking the bolt

[Cyber Logic]

Originally Posted by Gang80

I believed one of mine were loose at one point and I spoke to vorshlag directly and they were the ones who recommended the impact gun, same with the shop that did the install. The trick is only doing 1-2 zaps max to avoid issues

Based on your description, the sound you are hearing may very well be just the monoball functioning as usual. If the top nut is meaningfully loose, you would hear actual banging and your alignment would be off.

Pro tip: i torque mark all my suspension including that top nut. So now i can just visually inspect that top nut between track days for any movement. When you do get it “tight enough,” i would recommend marking the bolt

Good idea on marking it, just did that now. I am also happy to say I was able to get it torque'd down to spec with it attached. The 22mm crowsfoot that just arrived worked perfectly. Both had about a half turn worth of tightening to do from where they were previously at so hoping that does it. All 5 bolts on top now torqued to spec so we will see how that does.

Unfortunately, my test will need to wait until tomorrow as it appears my continual disconnecting/connecting of the EDC cable has hurt one side and the tip snapped. New one on the way that will arrive tomorrow, glad they made them easy to change! lol Hoping this nightmare is almost over and I finally get to enjoy these things on the track next week. Thanks again for the tips!

[Acree]

Have a link to the crow's foot you purchased? I'll be putting these on later this week.

[Cyber Logic]

Originally Posted by Acree

Have a link to the crow's foot you purchased? I'll be putting these on later this week.

Of course! I bought an entire set as the reviews on singles I could find commonly said they were low quality and would break. I can confirm these just barely fit enough to torque that bolt down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q34LFLD...sin_title&th=1

[Cyber Logic]

Finally was able to go out and get a test drive in after torquing everything down to spec. Drives great and the louder clunking I heard before tighting the top stut mount bolt is gone. That being said I do hear a faint "tinking" sound from the passenger side on occasion, especially on very bumpy roads. It's faint enough that if the burbles are on or any sound at all I can't hear it... Is this just the NVH I have been warned about would go up a little?

[djpeetur]

[QUOTE=Cyber Logic;32707863]Finally was able to go out and get a test drive in after torquing everything down to spec. Drives great and the louder clunking I heard before tighting the top stut mount bolt is gone. That being said I do hear a faint "tinking" sound from the passenger side on occasion, especially on very bumpy roads. It's faint enough that if the burbles are on or any sound at all I can't hear it... Is this just the NVH I have been warned about would go up a little?

What mods do you have. Also can you use these camber plates with edc ?

[Cyber Logic]

[QUOTE=djpeetur;32709626]

Originally Posted by Cyber Logic

Finally was able to go out and get a test drive in after torquing everything down to spec. Drives great and the louder clunking I heard before tighting the top stut mount bolt is gone. That being said I do hear a faint "tinking" sound from the passenger side on occasion, especially on very bumpy roads. It's faint enough that if the burbles are on or any sound at all I can't hear it... Is this just the NVH I have been warned about would go up a little?

What mods do you have. Also can you use these camber plates with edc ?

Only mods are CS Tune and Flash. Yes EDC is still being used.

[djpeetur]

Which setting is the least aggressive ?

[Acree]

Originally Posted by djpeetur

Which setting is the least aggressive ?

Installed these this week. 1 is least aggressive. But I was pretty surprised I only got -1.4° of camber on setting 2. The car is probably a little high.

[djpeetur]

Originally Posted by Acree

Installed these this week. 1 is least aggressive. But I was pretty surprised I only got -1.4° of camber on setting 2. The car is probably a little high.

Stock height ?

[Acree]

Originally Posted by djpeetur

Stock height ?

About an inch lower. Still 3/4” to tire

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by djpeetur

Which setting is the least aggressive ?

1 obviously, but most will be happy with 2 for aggressive street driving and light track. If you’re going more track and really aggressive street then 3, but I don’t think it’s worth it.

[Giak]

I am on position 1 and I have -2.3° camber at fronts (moderate drop with has kit, -17mm).
Was thinking agout trying position 2, but I think I would arrive around - 2.7\2.8°... Maybe too much for a daily used 90% of the time on normal roads. What do you think?

[djpeetur]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

1 obviously, but most will be happy with 2 for aggressive street driving and light track. If you’re going more track and really aggressive street then 3, but I don’t think it’s worth it.

Camber goal is -2.3* in front. Should I set at 1 or 2 and adjust my SPL LCA accordingly ? Is it better to gain camber up top or the bottom of the wheel ?