[Cyber Logic]

I'm about to tackle installing Suspension Secrets Camber Plates on my XDrive M3. They did not come with instructions and I have found little on the internet going over the install. I think I've pieced together the install process using two videos using a method that allows me to not remove the axle bolts. I'd like to hear from someone else who has possible tackled this and if I have the right process down here. Below is the process I intend to follow and the two video's I've used to primarily source the info. Would appreciate any info or advice anyone has.

Process:
Remove Cover in Engine Bay with Turn Pins
Remove 3 Push Pins to get access to Top Hat
Remove EDC Cable
Jack Car Up
Remove Wheel
Remove Fender Liner (10mm x15)
Unplug Sensor from Shock and Remove Sensor with a (T30)
Remove Sway Bar Inlink (16mm socket)
Loosen Control Arms (E14 Socket and 18mm Wrench)
Jack Up Suspension and Compress Spring
Remove Top Hat Center Bolt (18mm 12-Point Socket)
Lower Jack a little to allow strut and spring to separate from Spring Perch
Remove 4 Bolts on Top Hat (E14 Socket)
Split the OEM Spring Perch from the OEM Camber Plate and install the fit the OEM Perch with Suspension Secrets Camber Plate
Install new Perch and Plate using the 4 E14 Bolts (Anyone have torque specs?)
Resecure the strut to the perch by jacking it back up into the perch and then securing it with 18mm Bolt (Anyone have torque specs?)
Tighten Control Arms (Anyone have torque specs?)
Secure Sway Bar Inlink with 16mm bolt (Anyone have torque specs?)
Secure sensor on shock with T30
Secure fender liner's 15 10mm bolts
Install Wheel
Lower Car
Attach EDC Cable
Secure 3 push pins and cover

Do same on other side.

Videos:

Video 1

Video 2

[Giak]

I can't confirm because mine is rwd and it was easier to remove the strut from the swivel bearing.
The four top mounts E14 bolts should be torqued at 28Nm+180°, trying to cross-torque as even as possible. I used a new set of the OEM bolts and it seems there are no issues. SS supplies their own hardware with hexagonal 6mm head. Their bolts are shorter than OEM, maybe to avoid the risk they go through the plate to damage the rubber spring seat. Looking from the bottom they don't seem to come through the holes (at least the two visible ones).

[Ehloo]

Originally Posted by Cyber Logic

i am still waiting for my plates and rear toe arms to be shipped. Purchased during their black friday sale and it’s taking forever

i have been preparing for the install and read a couple post about issues with the install and nosies.

hopefully you don’t experience the same but please do share your install experience


I'm about to tackle installing Suspension Secrets Camber Plates on my XDrive M3. They did not come with instructions and I have found little on the internet going over the install. I think I've pieced together the install process using two videos using a method that allows me to not remove the axle bolts. I'd like to hear from someone else who has possible tackled this and if I have the right process down here. Below is the process I intend to follow and the two video's I've used to primarily source the info. Would appreciate any info or advice anyone has.

Process:
Remove Cover in Engine Bay with Turn Pins
Remove 3 Push Pins to get access to Top Hat
Remove EDC Cable
Jack Car Up
Remove Wheel
Remove Fender Liner (10mm x15)
Unplug Sensor from Shock and Remove Sensor with a (T30)
Remove Sway Bar Inlink (16mm socket)
Loosen Control Arms (E14 Socket and 18mm Wrench)
Jack Up Suspension and Compress Spring
Remove Top Hat Center Bolt (18mm 12-Point Socket)
Lower Jack a little to allow strut and spring to separate from Spring Perch
Remove 4 Bolts on Top Hat (E14 Socket)
Split the OEM Spring Perch from the OEM Camber Plate and install the fit the OEM Perch with Suspension Secrets Camber Plate
Install new Perch and Plate using the 4 E14 Bolts (Anyone have torque specs?)
Resecure the strut to the perch by jacking it back up into the perch and then securing it with 18mm Bolt (Anyone have torque specs?)
Tighten Control Arms (Anyone have torque specs?)
Secure Sway Bar Inlink with 16mm bolt (Anyone have torque specs?)
Secure sensor on shock with T30
Secure fender liner's 15 [...]

[Cyber Logic]

Bump... anyone else happen to have tackled this who can confirm this worked or know the torque specs for the Control Arms / Sway Bar Inlink?

[vwSHANEg80]

Do you know the degrees of negative camber gained from just your camber plate install?
I'm trying to figure how much the full slide on the Susp Secrets plates will give. Mine are still at customs... and I want to install and get 305 tires on front of my Xdrive G80.

[Giak]

Originally Posted by Cyber Logic

Bump... anyone else happen to have tackled this who can confirm this worked or know the torque specs for the Control Arms / Sway Bar Inlink?

Anti-roll bar link to the strut is torqued at 56Nm.

[Giak]

Originally Posted by vwSHANEg80

Do you know the degrees of negative camber gained from just your camber plate install?
I'm trying to figure how much the full slide on the Susp Secrets plates will give. Mine are still at customs... and I want to install and get 305 tires on front of my Xdrive G80.

If you ride at stock height, first position of SS camber plates shoud increase 0.2/0.3 degrees for neg camber. Middle position adds another half degree, to get you around -2.5 degrees. At least on a RWD.
I lowered a the car 15mm and with the first position on the plates I reached -2.3. I didn't try the middle position because it will be for sure to much for a daily road use.

[Cyber Logic]

So after many hours of learnings... I have finished the drivers side Camber Plate install. Few things that may help others in the future.

1. No one seems to mention removing the 10mm bolt on the plastic leveling arm on the drivers side, make sure you do this.

2. You CANNOT remove the sway bar inlink if the car is jacked up on one side like I was. You must jack up the other side to get it even so that the swaybar inlink will pull out easily.

3. Unsure if this is normal, but heard a very loud POP as the car was let back down off the jack after it all. Took wheel back off, everything looks fine above and below so I think it was it just settling back into place but boy did it scare the hell outta me.

4. You do NOT need to loosen the suspension if you are AWD. I couldn't for the life of me loosen the Control Arm Bolts and it looked like I may have room without doing it so I went for it. Had plenty of room to remove the OEM camber plate and install the new. If you are doing a whole kit I'm sure you would need more clearance but just for the plates you do NOT need to remove the axle bolt or loosen the suspension it seems.

Ran out of time today but should be able to get passengers side done this weekend.

[Acree]

All torque specs can be found in the Kies DIY.

My camber plates should arrive tomorrow. Car should be soon after.

[RACE M3]

You can install the plates without removing the struts from the knuckles. take off the ride heigh sensor. Loosen the strut 14mm with a jack under the rotor. Drop the strut slowly and remove the tophat. If you have oem springs you'll need the jack to compress the spring otherwise you can probably reassemble it then jack it back into place.

Go hand tight on the engine bay nuts. drop the car onto its wheels then trq the strut bolt and top hat bolts to spec. 2 ugga dugga for the strut and 1 ugga dugga for the top hat.


Before I had ohlins I did the euro eibach kit (front only) in about 30-45 min.