[nizona]

So I finished off my rear brake pads at a track day earlier in the week and finally got home to change the pads. I could not get the electronic parking brake to retract with 2 OBD2 readers, so I ended up taking off the parking brake and retracting it manually. I turned the piece (first photo) to the left first because I thought that would loosen, but it seemed like the brake piston disconnected from this screw and I could not compress the piston so I figured something was wrong. Screen to the right and it seemed to be that everything was back to normal and then I was able to compress the piston... However some brake fluid came out then (second photo). Maybe 2 tablespoons.

When I started the car I got a stop driving warning for the brakes. So I'm assuming I got air in the system somehow. Does anyone have any idea what I actually did🫣, I'm not that knowledgeable on how brake calipers work. I drove around the block a few times and didn't notice anything except the pedal might be soft.

[TopJimmy]

Sorry bro. It looks like you turned the EPB Torx the wrong direction when trying to make room to compress the piston, and instead you pushed the EPB cylinder off the adjustment bolt (and popped a piston seal out, which is where a little fluid leaked from). Those torx are reverse thread. Try to seat the seal and push the piston back in with your thumb while turning the EPB Torx (backwards) trying to re-thread onto the cylinder. If you do this with the piston facing upwards hopefully any potential bubbles will purge past the seal while you seat things. If fluid drips/pumps out during the procedure then your battery is still connected and electric master cylinder is pumping (triggers brake error, d/c battery 10min and r/c). If you get it reassembled right then make sure to test that everything works in your driveway before going out on the road. Brake fluid eats paint, so as soon as you know you’re piston is sealed right you want to wash with Dawn to get caliper paint clean again.

Check, double-check, test, and look again. In a week look again-again.

[nizona]

Alright thanks for the info, I'm pretty sure I got it seated right again, no drops of fluid in my wheel the last couple hours and I've been able to stop with no problems. But I have the error message stop driving problem with the brakes. Is there a way to reset that message?

Going to be a hassle to get my brakes bled cause the dealerships here in Germany don't want to do it with racing grade.

[nizona]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Sorry bro. It looks like you turned the EPB Torx the wrong direction when trying to make room to compress the piston, and instead you pushed the EPB cylinder off the adjustment bolt (and popped a piston seal out, which is where a little fluid leaked from). Those torx are reverse thread. Try to seat the seal and push the piston back in with your thumb while turning the EPB Torx (backwards) trying to re-thread onto the cylinder. If you do this with the piston facing upwards hopefully any potential bubbles will purge past the seal while you seat things. If fluid drips/pumps out during the procedure then your battery is still connected and electric master cylinder is pumping (triggers brake error, d/c battery 10min and r/c). If you get it reassembled right then make sure to test that everything works in your driveway before going out on the road. Brake fluid eats paint, so as soon as you know you’re piston is sealed right you want to wash with Dawn to get caliper paint clean again.

Check, double-check, test, and look again. In a week look again-again.

Question, do you think I need to bleed the brakes again? I was originally planning it but will run short on time this week before having a track day next week. The error light went off after 2 days that there is air in the system and to stop driving. Everything seems to work fine the last 2 weeks.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by nizona

Question, do you think I need to bleed the brakes again? I was originally planning it but will run short on time this week before having a track day next week. The error light went off after 2 days that there is air in the system and to stop driving. Everything seems to work fine the last 2 weeks.

If doing a track day you definitely should bleed using the foot-press-hold method (the old way).

[nizona]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

If doing a track day you definitely should bleed using the foot-press-hold method (the old way).

Do you have a reference how to do that? I was looking to buy the motiv tool but almost impossible to get more Endless brake fluid in time

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by nizona

Do you have a reference how to do that? I was looking to buy the motiv tool but almost impossible to get more Endless brake fluid in time

It’s best to use the foot-on-brake-pedal method instead of the pressure-bleeder. Your foot makes much higher pressure, which knocks bubbles out of corners. Get a knowledgeable buddy to help. It takes 2 people.

Don’t round off your brake bleeder nuts. Ah, the fun of learning…