[ChanceG8X]

So this is a new one tried to drive the car tonight to every malfunction the car can give. I tried to take it down the corner and back and clutched in at the light and the engine went wot without me even being on the gas pedal. Hope its ok the motor wasn’t warm turned it off as soon as I saw it unfortunately it hit max rpm. Has anyone else seen this issue?



Solution: For the people that come across this its your wheel speed sensor. If you want to use the car still just turn off auto rev matching I was able to drive without it reving by itself.

[SwankPeRFection]

Were the errors there before or after the drive and the redline issue. Most likely you had an issue with Valvetronic, but all the other errors could be from low voltage or some other issue. Hard to say without some context. When’s the last time you drive it? Have you had any other issues with it? Do you drive it regularly? Park anywhere animals or rodents could get under the hood and chew up wires?

[ChanceG8X]

[QUOTE=SwankPeRFection;31505762]Were the errors there before or after the drive and the redline issue. Most likely you had an issue with Valvetronic, but all the other errors could be from low voltage or some other issue. Hard to say without some context. When’s the last time you drive it? Have you had any other issues with it? Do you drive it regularly? Park anywhere animals or rodents could get under the hood and chew up wires?

Right when I opened the door I heard the warning chime for the parking brake everything else came up when I started it.

[ChanceG8X]

Will check under the hood tomorrow

[SwankPeRFection]

It either lost its mind and will reset overnight after a full reboot or something is definitely failed or chewed up. You could always pull the battery for 60 seconds for a full reset if it’s still errored up tomorrow. If that doesn’t clear things, something is amiss and will need to be scanned to find the issue easier. Last person to have a somewhat similar issue was a problem with a wheel speed sensor, but without a scan for exact error code, it’s a shot in the dark.

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

It either lost its mind and will reset overnight after a full reboot or something is definitely failed or chewed up. You could always pull the battery for 60 seconds for a full reset if it’s still errored up tomorrow. If that doesn’t clear things, something is amiss and will need to be scanned to find the issue easier. Last person to have a somewhat similar issue was a problem with a wheel speed sensor, but without a scan for exact error code, it’s a shot in the dark.

Thinking it lost its mind drove yesterday and felt great. But kept going wot after clutching in. Its been throwing malfunctions every once in awhile hope its not more messed up after a reprogram.

[ChanceG8X]

Well checked under the hood I didn’t see any activity from a rodent. Of course Ive been so busy so I probably cant get it there until Monday which is fine I suppose. I’ll post what the dealer recommends just incase someone else experiences this issue. Have a good weekend everyone.

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by ChanceG8X

Thinking it lost its mind drove yesterday and felt great. But kept going wot after clutching in. Its been throwing malfunctions every once in awhile hope its not more messed up after a reprogram.

What reprogram?

[G80indy]

Yikes
Keep us posted please

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

What reprogram?

Under the assumption the tech will try to push some reinstall of the ecu programming.

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by ChanceG8X

Under the assumption the tech will try to push some reinstall of the ecu programming.

Oh, OK. I thought you meant it was flashed/tuned and that’s when you started to have the issue with revs not falling when you clutch in and let off the accelerator. It should not be redlining when you get off the accelerator. Just out of curiosity, but if you accelerate in gear to a high RPM and then get off the accelerator without messing with the clutch (essentially to do engine braking) does it engine brake or does it continue to accelerate? If it’s not closing throttle and continuing to accelerate then I bet this is that bullshit Valvetronic bug that I’m thinking some people ran into where they accelerate hard, get off throttle to brake and the car keeps accelerating with throttle NOT closing and showing they didn’t get off the throttle when they actually did.

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Oh, OK. I thought you meant it was flashed/tuned and that’s when you started to have the issue with revs not falling when you clutch in and let off the accelerator. It should not be redlining when you get off the accelerator. Just out of curiosity, but if you accelerate in gear to a high RPM and then get off the accelerator without messing with the clutch (essentially to do engine braking) does it engine brake or does it continue to accelerate? If it’s not closing throttle and continuing to accelerate then I bet this is that bullshit Valvetronic bug that I’m thinking some people ran into where they accelerate hard, get off throttle to brake and the car keeps accelerating with throttle NOT closing and showing they didn’t get off the throttle when they actually did.

Gotcha ya no everything is completely stock the car scares me enough. But I did try to see what would happen and infact it will only start to redline itself when I get out of gear otherwise will let me control. I do have bimmerlink so im going to scan it tonight and see what the codes are.

[chris3g]

the messages on the screen are useless, get the actual codes and you will likely have a much better idea what is going on.

[ChanceG8X]

Here are the details.

[SwankPeRFection]

Do you drive it regularly or is there a chance it ran low on battery power? I’d clear all codes and see how it behaves and if any of the codes come back. Don’t keep driving it if it behaves the same way. Take it in at that point.

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Do you drive it regularly or is there a chance it ran low on battery power? I’d clear all codes and see how it behaves and if any of the codes come back. Don’t keep driving it if it behaves the same way. Take it in at that point.

Yea I drive it probably 3-4 times out of the week. I checked the voltage and it seems fine.

[SwankPeRFection]

If clearing the codes doesn’t do anything and the issue persists, then you’ll need to take it in. This is a bit of a reach, but given your date of when this happened, what’s the chance your car tried to apply an update at around the same time that BMW corporate lost network connectivity due to the storm? BMW’s network had been down in the US since that happened and remote functions as well as updates has been down. It would be extremely remote that this happened, but I can tell you that if insufficient failsafes were implemented in the update process for such obscure circumstances, if the timing was right and communications were lost during one of the routines, it very well could have caused some flashing to fail on some modules and all sorts of each shit to happen. Now, as I said, I am reaching a little on this because technically, the updates gets fully downloaded locally to the car before the process starts, so technically this shouldn’t happen, but if there’s any necessary checks done during the process against the servers and they were unreachable, I can’t say that wouldn’t cause some issue. Either way, if it’s this, BMW should be able to just reflash everything again while plugged in and it’ll be fine as long as no modules are bricked. Good luck.

[chris3g]

most of those are irrelevant transient codes and it looks like you only read info memory in bimmerlink. you need to read error memory and permanent codes, for some reason they have separated into 3 different sections.

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

If clearing the codes doesn’t do anything and the issue persists, then you’ll need to take it in. This is a bit of a reach, but given your date of when this happened, what’s the chance your car tried to apply an update at around the same time that BMW corporate lost network connectivity due to the storm? BMW’s network had been down in the US since that happened and remote functions as well as updates has been down. It would be extremely remote that this happened, but I can tell you that if insufficient failsafes were implemented in the update process for such obscure circumstances, if the timing was right and communications were lost during one of the routines, it very well could have caused some flashing to fail on some modules and all sorts of each shit to happen. Now, as I said, I am reaching a little on this because technically, the updates gets fully downloaded locally to the car before the process starts, so technically this shouldn’t happen, but if there’s any necessary checks done during the process against the servers and they were unreachable, I can’t say that wouldn’t cause some issue. Either way, if it’s this, BMW should be able to just reflash everything again while plugged in and it’ll be fine as long as no modules are bricked. Good luck.

Its a thought but has there been any updates recently? I would think it would do a checksum before trying to install to verify it downloaded successfully. Well hopefully its a quick fix and glad its documented through bmw now just because when I first got the car I had a no start issue but the car eventually came back so I didnt think anything of it.

[ChanceG8X]

Originally Posted by chris3g

most of those are irrelevant transient codes and it looks like you only read info memory in bimmerlink. you need to read error memory and permanent codes, for some reason they have separated into 3 different sections.

Darn oh well nothing I can do now the car was just picked up. I’ll make sure to get the details from the tech tomorrow of what happened.

[ChanceG8X]

Well they just sent me the video damn rodents. right rear wheel speed sensor cut.

[SwankPeRFection]

Yep, that’ll do it.