[eric97h]

im having a very weird issue, and this only happens sometimes. i would say when the car is cold like every 1-2 week i start car get drive train malfunction and it does this weird idle thing and sputters when im driving it my only mods are a m3 cs tune and dahler piggy back. often times i start it on off and it goes away or turn it off and come back after 5 minutes and its gone is it a sensor issue ?

[chris3g]

to start troubleshooting you need to pull the actual codes from the car.

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by chris3g

to start troubleshooting you need to pull the actual codes from the car.

what obd2 should i get to do this

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by eric97h

what obd2 should i get to do this

https://bimmercode.app/adapters/

preferably one that is ENET WIFI

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by chris3g

https://bimmercode.app/adapters/

preferably one that is ENET WIFI

why those are better then the bluetooth ones?

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by eric97h

why those are better then the bluetooth ones?

bluetooth is very slow

[SwankPeRFection]

Take that bullshit piggyback off and see if the issue persists. If it doesn’t then it’s either that box or the connections for it were loose or something along those lines.

If the issue persists, then it’s something causing a misfire… either fouled up spark plugs because your fueling trims are too rich from the piggyback and you don’t drive your car hard enough to keep them clean on a regular basis or it’s possibly a leaky injector again flouling things up and causing misses. Ideally, you’d scan it for codes to see specifically what’s up like others have suggested, but if you don’t go that way your only other manual troubleshooting choices are what I suggested.

Also, when you say an M3 CS tune, do you mean the trans flash and chassis coding or do you actually mean you’re running the CS DME tune via BM3 and then the piggy back on top of that for some goofy reason?

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Take that bullshit piggyback off and see if the issue persists. If it doesn’t then it’s either that box or the connections for it were loose or something along those lines.

If the issue persists, then it’s something causing a misfire… either fouled up spark plugs because your fueling trims are too rich from the piggyback and you don’t drive your car hard enough to keep them clean on a regular basis or it’s possibly a leaky injector again flouling things up and causing misses. Ideally, you’d scan it for codes to see specifically what’s up like others have suggested, but if you don’t go that way your only other manual troubleshooting choices are what I suggested.

Also, when you say an M3 CS tune, do you mean the trans flash and chassis coding or do you actually mean you’re running the CS DME tune via BM3 and then the piggy back on top of that for some goofy reason?

no the cs trans flash ! also i have had the car for 3700 miles and mostly keep it on either 91 or 1 gallon of e85 mix with the 91 so i doubt its the other issues and has to due with the piggy back. i just ordered a obd 2 scanner comming tomorow so i can check whats going on

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Take that bullshit piggyback off and see if the issue persists. If it doesn’t then it’s either that box or the connections for it were loose or something along those lines.

If the issue persists, then it’s something causing a misfire… either fouled up spark plugs because your fueling trims are too rich from the piggyback and you don’t drive your car hard enough to keep them clean on a regular basis or it’s possibly a leaky injector again flouling things up and causing misses. Ideally, you’d scan it for codes to see specifically what’s up like others have suggested, but if you don’t go that way your only other manual troubleshooting choices are what I suggested.

Also, when you say an M3 CS tune, do you mean the trans flash and chassis coding or do you actually mean you’re running the CS DME tune via BM3 and then the piggy back on top of that for some goofy reason?

Lol I drive it 1 hour later errors are gone and it drives normally when it’s warm lol.

[SwankPeRFection]

While you’re waiting, you could unplug and replug each of the piggyback connections that are made to the stock harness/sensors to make sure they’re clicked in place well. Someone on here posted something similar to this with running a piggyback and having goofy connections on the hardness. I think their piggyback company replaced their harness or something, but I can’t remember if it was Burger or Dahler that they had.

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

While you’re waiting, you could unplug and replug each of the piggyback connections that are made to the stock harness/sensors to make sure they’re clicked in place well. Someone on here posted something similar to this with running a piggyback and having goofy connections on the hardness. I think their piggyback company replaced their harness or something, but I can’t remember if it was Burger or Dahler that they had.

ya im almost sure its the tune giving me troublle and idk if its that 1or 2 gallons of e mix maybe but i doubt it i will have the scanner tomorrow next time it happens iw ill be for sure know what it is

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Take that bullshit piggyback off and see if the issue persists. If it doesn’t then it’s either that box or the connections for it were loose or something along those lines.

If the issue persists, then it’s something causing a misfire… either fouled up spark plugs because your fueling trims are too rich from the piggyback and you don’t drive your car hard enough to keep them clean on a regular basis or it’s possibly a leaky injector again flouling things up and causing misses. Ideally, you’d scan it for codes to see specifically what’s up like others have suggested, but if you don’t go that way your only other manual troubleshooting choices are what I suggested.

Also, when you say an M3 CS tune, do you mean the trans flash and chassis coding or do you actually mean you’re running the CS DME tune via BM3 and then the piggy back on top of that for some goofy reason?

Love me a Swank post..

Isnt' the Dahler just a re-popped Racechip? It should come w/ a plug that takes it back to stock. I'd try that along w/ checking connections.

[eric97h]

Originally Posted by M4Lou

Love me a Swank post..

Isnt' the Dahler just a re-popped Racechip? It should come w/ a plug that takes it back to stock. I'd try that along w/ checking connections.

Ya ima do that !

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by chris3g

bluetooth is very slow

Not for reading codes, wifi is also annoying to connect, bluetooth connection is instant. I had both and returned the wifi dongle.

[markoz28]

I use the Kies wifi adapter. Connects instantly. That said, I would remove all tuning devices and check for codes then.

[Berzerker]

A wired ENET is better than everything. It works fantastically for me. Quickly to connect, read codes, code in changes, flip through menus, etc. All instant. Plus the connection is a bit more stable for me.

Wired ENET into a USB-C/Lightning to ethernet adapter.

[SwankPeRFection]

^^^ I may be old school, but I also agree with this. When messing with flashing anything, a direct cable connection is the most trustworthy as you don’t tend to run across the extremely rare possibility of one connection interfering over another should something pop up and the Bluetooth or WiFi stack takes a dump on you.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

^^^ I may be old school, but I also agree with this. When messing with flashing anything, a direct cable connection is the most trustworthy as you don’t tend to run across the extremely rare possibility of one connection interfering over another should something pop up and the Bluetooth or WiFi stack takes a dump on you.

I agree with you that, in theory, we only use wired connections to all computers in our office.

But for some reason, I had better luck with the adapter. As soon as I got the official PTF adapter, I didn't have any connection issues (I tried the cables and another type of adapter for years and always had problems with the connection).