[Coconut]

This is the OEM M2/M3/M4 (G80, G82, G87) steering wheel with Black Leather and Tri-Color stitching. Sure, the only difference is the tri-color stitching but to me it makes a big visual difference. There are actually 4 P/N's (no heating or driver assist pro, with heating with driver assist pro, with heating no driver assist pro, no heating with driver assist pro). My car has heating but without driver assist pro. I bought it for ~$800 from BMWpartsnow.com. Contact them for best pricing and to verify the correct P/N for this retrofit.

OEM P/N 32-30-9-882-678 - Steering Wheel (with heating, without driver assist pro)

Overall an easy swap:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal under the trunk floor using a 10mm socket. Probably a good idea to wait 15-30 mins for any residual power to dissipate.

2. Use a flathead screw driver or large enough hex wrench to pierce the sides of the steering wheel. There are 2 indentations where to pierce. Use your tool to feel around for the metal bar and press hard against it. That'll pop the left and right edges of the airbag.

3. Once airbag is loose, disconnect the airbag plug by pushing in on the tab. Remove the airbag.

4. Disconnect the 2 connector near the steering wheel bolt. There is no push tab release. You have to use a small flat head screwdriver to wedge it in to release the little retention bump.

5. Remove the steering wheel bolt. You'll need a T60 Torx bit. You can fit a a Torx set with this bit in it at Harbor Freight for ~$16. Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with at least an 18" handle and the bolt should break easily. Hold the steering wheel steady with your free hand or your legs while you break the bolt loose. Clean the blue loctite residue from the threads and bolt.

6. Use a T25 torx bit to remove the bolt holding in the left and right paddle shifter assemblies.

7. Remove the x2 T25 torx bolts at the back of the steering wheel holding the silver steering wheel surround in place. Then use a pry tool to pop off the bottom edge of the steering wheel surround near the bottom spoke. Unclip the steering wheel surround connector (wedge flathead screwdriver in connector gap) and the entire surround can come out now.

8. Use a T20 torx bit to remove the various remaining upper steering wheel trim piece, force feedback motor and a T25 torx bit for the x3 large silver bolts holding the airbag/horn frame.

9. There is a serated negative o-ring attaching the plastic wiring harness frame to the steering wheel frame. Use either a small flathead screwdriver or pick to gently remove it. The entire wiring harness frame should now come out. Transfer it over to your new steering wheel.

10. Re-attached everything.

[peaceindriving]

Looks sharp with the stitching on the wheel and the upgraded paddles.

[MPR]

What are the steering wheel differences from stock? Just colored stitching and the opening in the bottom/steering wheel heater button area?

[Coconut]

Originally Posted by MPR

What are the steering wheel differences from stock? Just colored stitching and the opening in the bottom/steering wheel heater button area?

Just the colored stitching. I added the hollow lower steering wheel trim, it’s ~$35.

[Pentland]

$800 for some stitching!

[Coconut]

Yes…

[TJZ67201]

I appreciate the DIY! It was an interesting read. Just cannot justify 800 for stitching and to have an extra backup steering wheel on hand lol. Looks very nice tho 👍🏻