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      05-10-2023, 06:00 PM   #45
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CCB brakes work differently and dont depend on bedding, dont bed them in.
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      05-10-2023, 09:43 PM   #46
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This is news to me. When I had my z28 with CCBs they had the same bed in procedure as the Zr1 because they were the same brakes. From memory, it’s double the normal bedding procedure. Something like 20 hard stops instead of 10.
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      05-11-2023, 01:47 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTS View Post
CCB brakes work differently and dont depend on bedding, dont bed them in.
According to every source I can find, including the instructions provided by Endless, CCB brakes most definitely need to be bedded in, even more intensively than iron brakes - because CCB takes much more time to properly heat up.
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      05-11-2023, 07:54 AM   #48
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Bedding them is news to me, maybe things changed. The reason CCBs dont need to be bed in, to my knowledge, is because they dont work based on abrasive friction, they work on adhesive friction. Meaning, heat generated forms chemical bonds between pad and disc, so it does not reply on the bonds formed by depositing pad compound onto the discs. The initial heat up relies on abrasive friction, but that is minimal.

Again, maybe things changed with the latest CCB compounds.
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      05-11-2023, 12:54 PM   #49
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Well, bedding in or not, this turned into a catastrophy. The brakes started squeaking already last night after a long autobahn drive.

This morning, the dealer advised to do another proper bedding in.

I did first about 15 stops with moderate power to warm them up, then cool a few minutes and then 10-12 hard stops. They were squealing on and off during the process.
Afterwards, took a long cooling off drive, and already during that drive heard this periodic (with rotation) squeak while driving - no brake applied. When braking, it would squeal louder then not then again and when slowing down even louder.

Cooled off, parked, in the evening drove normally, the brakes squeal WHILE driving , and when braking. Hard braking works but squeals just as you start slowing down.

It just got worse by the end of the day. It seems to come from both sides, so don't think I caught a pebble (also, it would be a big coincidence that it happened just now with new pads..).
But the sound is really like Freddy Kruger scratching on ceramic, very obnoxious.
So, something in the compound of the pads? Initial layer or defect?

The dealer says we will sort it out but I am far from home now on a trip and this has just become a nightmare.

Viaually, the brakes look ok at least the outer side, there is some pad material on the discs which doesn't look wrong. The calipers , pads integrity seems ok. The install was clean and professional.
Also, stopping power is fully fine.

Need to try to get to a local BMW and ask to remove the caliper and check the pads surfaces...just to be sure it's safe to drive back.. such a sh..tshow...
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      05-11-2023, 12:56 PM   #50
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Oh yes, of course I am blaming myself fully for putting so much faith and doing the pads swap on my way on a long trip which was supposed to be a vacation...
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      05-11-2023, 01:00 PM   #51
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Some images...


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      05-11-2023, 05:45 PM   #52
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The white/gray-ish color is typically pad material transfer. It's pretty difficult to install these brake pads incorrectly so I'm assuming the bedding in procedure didn't gradually warm up the pads and cool them down sufficiently.

The middle part of a brake pad will remain the warmest which is why the middle of the rotor has the pad material. Next time, warm them up gradually while being less firm on the brake pad. Typically, the bedding-in instructions are generic to apply to all cars so they may not be suggesting the gradual warm up. Cross-reference BMW's procedure (I'm not sure there is one) along with the brake pad company to find a good combination.

There are detailed instructions for McLaren CCM rotors but I'm not sure those apply here.
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      05-12-2023, 05:24 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamlord View Post
Some images...


The discs were fine, so were the pads, nothing stuck inbetween and no damage.
Just uneven heating pattern initially and uneven bedding in, most likely. Seems to need a good sandpaper rub and then repeat bed in more attentively.
For now mounted stock pads, all good.
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      05-12-2023, 08:04 AM   #54
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I would have your rotors weighted just to have an idea where they are on wear, from what my friend told me tracking is McLaren 600LT the more fibers in the rotors are burned inside the faster the pads will wear and all sorts of weird stuff start to happen. He ended installing steel rotors because of too frequent track usage.
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      05-12-2023, 10:36 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PLF69 View Post
I would have your rotors weighted just to have an idea where they are on wear, from what my friend told me tracking is McLaren 600LT the more fibers in the rotors are burned inside the faster the pads will wear and all sorts of weird stuff start to happen. He ended installing steel rotors because of too frequent track usage.
That's something I hope I don't have to worry for awhile, the car is a couple months old and been to track twice and not pushed to any limits.
The plan was to put the Endless pads and then track more intensively.
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      05-12-2023, 12:56 PM   #56
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For general forum wisdom, here's what an incomplete/uneven bedding in looks like. Clearly visible patch on the pad that was heated more than the rest of the pad, and causing horrific obnoxious screeching.
I own the improper bedding in, and will try again together with the Endless dealer after they sandpaper the pads.

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      05-16-2023, 09:02 AM   #57
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The biggest downside to CCBs, regardless who's it is, is the annoying sound they produce when light pressure is applied especially when there is no heat build up on pads. It is worse than a school bus. If this is the problem you are talking about, I do not know of a solution.

It personally did not bother me. Around town, as I was approaching traffic lights or intersections, I would drag the brakes for 100-150 ft. to build up the heat with left-foot braking and the annoying squeal would be reduced, not eliminated.

I assume you don't hear such squeal on track when you apply high pressure on the pedal, and pads and rotors are up to temp.
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      05-16-2023, 01:12 PM   #58
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Following. And although I don't track my car, I haven't had any issues with my CCBs. My car has 14,300 miles on it, and I haven't really looked closely to see if there are any broken pad bits on the edges of the pads.

The only thing I don't really like about the brakes, is how much you need to heat them up, to get them to work well. Over 100mph, initial pedal is very long, for me. They feel like the rotors are glazed, and they don't grab well. If you're doing a little aggressive driving, you can get them to heat up fairly quickly. If you're cruising down the highway, at a decent speed, again, the pedal is a little long if you come up on some traffic.

Squealing: This almost never happens to me. I ride them pretty hard when I do use them. I suspect they don't make noise for me, because I tend to late brake, with my driving style, so, its always fairly aggressive. I have had them make the train noise 2-3 times, but I usually wash the car once a week, or so, and what most people fail to do, is wash their pads, and rotors.

I hit them really well with a diluted all purpose cleaner, and make sure to really get the pressure washer nozzle into the rotor holes. I also have the long wand on my pressure washer gun, with the slight angle, and this allows me to get in between the spokes and really get along the caliper where the pads contact the rotor. I do it when I clean the wheels, one by one, and then I do it, again, when I foam the entire car, I get the wheels with the foam cannon, and repeat the brake spraying process.
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      05-16-2023, 04:47 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limegrntaln View Post
Following. And although I don't track my car, I haven't had any issues with my CCBs. My car has 14,300 miles on it, and I haven't really looked closely to see if there are any broken pad bits on the edges of the pads.

The only thing I don't really like about the brakes, is how much you need to heat them up, to get them to work well. Over 100mph, initial pedal is very long, for me. They feel like the rotors are glazed, and they don't grab well. If you're doing a little aggressive driving, you can get them to heat up fairly quickly. If you're cruising down the highway, at a decent speed, again, the pedal is a little long if you come up on some traffic.

Squealing: This almost never happens to me. I ride them pretty hard when I do use them. I suspect they don't make noise for me, because I tend to late brake, with my driving style, so, its always fairly aggressive. I have had them make the train noise 2-3 times, but I usually wash the car once a week, or so, and what most people fail to do, is wash their pads, and rotors.

I hit them really well with a diluted all purpose cleaner, and make sure to really get the pressure washer nozzle into the rotor holes. I also have the long wand on my pressure washer gun, with the slight angle, and this allows me to get in between the spokes and really get along the caliper where the pads contact the rotor. I do it when I clean the wheels, one by one, and then I do it, again, when I foam the entire car, I get the wheels with the foam cannon, and repeat the brake spraying process.
The train noise with CCBs will come eventually when you do some track driving, or really hard driving on twisty mountain roads, getting them to some serious temperatures, regardless of how well you wash the rotors. And that's completely fine, nothing wrong with it.
On all other occasions they are quiet.

That is, on stock pads, which are trash for track anyway.

Non-stock, well, I am still learning so will report when I figured them out and was able to properly bed them in...
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      05-16-2023, 09:11 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamlord View Post
The train noise with CCBs will come eventually when you do some track driving, or really hard driving on twisty mountain roads, getting them to some serious temperatures, regardless of how well you wash the rotors. And that's completely fine, nothing wrong with it.
On all other occasions they are quiet.

That is, on stock pads, which are trash for track anyway.

Non-stock, well, I am still learning so will report when I figured them out and was able to properly bed them in...
I’ve gotten them hot enough to sling strings of tire rubber onto the side doors, and they did make some squealing on the way home from, but, went away before I even got home.
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      05-30-2023, 02:48 PM   #61
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My G82 has seen probably 1 full track day and 3 "half-days", over a 1.5yr period. Just last week I did a half-day with 3 ~20min sessions. Previously I saw almost no, or minimal, wear on the CCB pads. Last week I noticed the front have obvious wear very suddenly, and during the track day went from maybe 8mm down to 3-4mm pad remaining. The rear is still 8mm+ remaining. Rotors seem ok though I will double check again.

My current plan is to replace just front pads only from dealer (with stock, carbon pads) - not sure price yet.
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      05-30-2023, 06:36 PM   #62
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Fwiw including pics of the current wear after ~4 track events. The fronts are toast but rotors seem ok…..
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      05-30-2023, 06:49 PM   #63
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Supposedly the more the fibers in your rotors are toast the faster the pads will wear. That's what McLaren guys told me at the track. They are all running steel girodiscs.
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      05-31-2023, 08:53 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimab0 View Post
Fwiw including pics of the current wear after ~4 track events. The fronts are toast but rotors seem ok…..
Those front pads look dangerously thin, I think the recommendation is to never let them go below half and replace before that - otherwise the rotor wear increases dramatically.

I would suggest not going with stock but rather use Endless pads, they don't get as hot and hence easier on the rotors.
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      06-19-2023, 07:34 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure View Post
Email from Girodisc below. These are great rotors for those who aren't familiar. I use them on my F80 and this would be a day 1 mod when the time comes for me to join you G8x guys.

We are currently in the prototype phase for our G8X rotors – both for iron direct replacement, and for converting carbon ceramics to iron. If you’re interested, I can add you to my list of people we will be reaching out to when they’re ready. Let me know, thanks!
Any updates from them?
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      06-19-2023, 08:20 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Any updates from them?
Coincidentally, my source at girodisc reported that they shipped the prototype pair out today, and it should be test-fit on Friday. The moment it’s confirmed, they will be doing a priority production run ASAP. They could be available in just a few weeks from now. That's huge news.
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