[mattssi]

I've read from a few folks that the rear is difficult to do without a lift due to the inability to get leverage.

Is there any reason the install can't be done by undoing the camber bolt rather than the control arm mount?

I came across this F80 install that uses the camber bolt method and it seems doable. I guess the downside is you are more likely to screw the camber, but you are going to need an alignment anyways in a few hundred miles.

Lastly - where are the "center" jack points on this vehicle? Obviously you can't jack up the car on the jacking points and get a jack stand in there at the same time.

Thanks folks!

Camber:


Control Arm:

[moproblems]

I did it with a camber bolt, just mark the eccentric with a paint pen. The front jacking point is rearward of the oil cooler and it is very obvious. My floor jack happens to fit forward of the muffler and rearward of the differential on the center of the subframe, otherwise you COULD use the differential case but I don't trust the fins to take the weight of the rear of the car. YMMV

[mattssi]

Thank you! Good to know. I think I’m going to try that route as well.

[mattssi]

Originally Posted by moproblems

I did it with a camber bolt, just mark the eccentric with a paint pen. The front jacking point is rearward of the oil cooler and it is very obvious. My floor jack happens to fit forward of the muffler and rearward of the differential on the center of the subframe, otherwise you COULD use the differential case but I don't trust the fins to take the weight of the rear of the car. YMMV

Do you happen to have any of the torque specs handy (for front strut nut, rear suspension, etc.) that were used when did yours?

They don't seem readily available outside of TIS at the moment.

Thanks!

[mattssi]

Here is what was given to me from another forum member:

Rear shock to control arm bolt (one-time use bolt): 100 NM
Rear camber bolt: 175 NM
Rear control arm to subframe: 165 NM

[Soylent]

Get a QuickJack. I know they are the cost of a nice HAS kit but you will be so happy with it. No more jack stands or floor jacks. So easy to get the car in the air that you don't think twice about doing it.

[mattssi]

Quick follow-up. I bought 24 hours to TIS and got this info.

Rear shock to control arm bolt (one-time use nut & bolt): 100 Nm + 90 degrees
Rear camber bolt: 165 Nm
Rear control arm to subframe: 100 Nm + 90 degrees
Front strut nut: 71 Nm

[mattssi]

Also, the rear differential is noted as a good way to jack up the vehicle using a floor jack. No mention of the fins getting damaged, etc.

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by mattssi

Quick follow-up. I bought 24 hours to TIS and got this info.

Rear shock to control arm bolt (one-time use nut & bolt): 100 Nm + 90 degrees
Rear camber bolt: 165 Nm
Rear control arm to subframe: 100 Nm + 90 degrees
Front strut nut: 71 Nm

Thank you for sharing the info.
I've went through the 'allTorqueSpec' sheet provided by yousefnjr and found the torque specs for the rear control arm.

I also found the part number you provided for the rear shock to control arm bolts/nuts.
Would you happen to have the part number for the rear control arm to subframe bolts/nuts by any chance?

I'm having a real hard time googling G8x part numbers online
Any help would be much appreciated!

[mattssi]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Thank you for sharing the info.
I've went through the 'allTorqueSpec' sheet provided by yousefnjr and found the torque specs for the rear control arm.

I also found the part number you provided for the rear shock to control arm bolts/nuts.
Would you happen to have the part number for the rear control arm to subframe bolts/nuts by any chance?

I'm having a real hard time googling G8x part numbers online
Any help would be much appreciated!

Everything you need should be here: https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...n/33_2839.html

[nearwater4me]

Got the part numbers from getBMWparts.com

31-10-6-786-144 Bolt
33-30-6-787-062 Nut

Special thanks Jason @ getBMWparts.com

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by mattssi

Everything you need should be here: https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...n/33_2839.html

Wow, that diagram is awesome. All P/N listed as well.
Thanks!

[BulkBen]

Sorry to hijack the post but looks the OP has got what he wants out of it.

Another DIY install question relating to AWD cars.

When doing the front, can you follow the same procedure used in the RWD cars, in leaving the bottom of then strut attached and then just drop the top of the strut down and over?

Trying to work out of the dirveshafts just pop out, and return again easily, or do you have to look at the AWD cars differently?

[nearwater4me]

Sorry for the never-ending questions, but I need help with the rear camber control arm - rear subframe bolt.
I'm having a hell of a time trying to put the bolt back in between the camber control arm & subframe.
As you can see in the picture, the whole arm needs to be pulled towards the outside of the vehicle but with the jack I have, it seems almost impossible to do so.
And I've tried like 20 different jacking spots on the arm but no dice.

mattssi moproblems
Sorry for tagging you guys, but how easy or difficult was it to do it by removing the camber/eccentric bolts/nuts?
Were you able to line up the previous position(camber) with ease?
Any recommendation in reassembly sequence? (Which bolts first?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Sorry for the never-ending questions, but I need help with the rear camber control arm - rear subframe bolt.
I'm having a hell of a time trying to put the bolt back in between the camber control arm & subframe.
As you can see in the picture, the whole arm needs to be pulled towards the outside of the vehicle but with the jack I have, it seems almost impossible to do so.
And I've tried like 20 different jacking spots on the arm but no dice.

mattssi moproblems
Sorry for tagging you guys, but how easy or difficult was it to do it by removing the camber/eccentric bolts/nuts?
Were you able to line up the previous position(camber) with ease?
Any recommendation in reassembly sequence? (Which bolts first?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I personally didn't have an issue doing it from the outside, just used a paint pen and marked them beforehand, however...

Prybar is your best friend here, you have to pivot the whole carrier outwards to get that bolt to line up. Stick a prybar or extension between the subframe and the inside of the arm and push/pull towards the outside of the car. You can also buy a tool that looks like a huge spike to line the arm and bushing up, but try a prybar first.

If you have another set of hands have somebody pull on the bottom of the rotor while you are under waiting for the bolt to line up.

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by moproblems

I personally didn't have an issue doing it from the outside, just used a paint pen and marked them beforehand, however...

Prybar is your best friend here, you have to pivot the whole carrier outwards to get that bolt to line up. Stick a prybar or extension between the subframe and the inside of the arm and push/pull towards the outside of the car. You can also buy a tool that looks like a huge spike to line the arm and bushing up, but try a prybar first.

If you have another set of hands have somebody pull on the bottom of the rotor while you are under waiting for the bolt to line up.

Thanks for the feedback.
Unfortunately, I work on my car at night, so it's not easy to get help.
I tried pulling the caliper outwards, but it was a little nerve wracking to see the whole car tilting on the Quick Jack.

I like the prybar approach but as far as I could tell, there didn't seem to be a good spot to get leverage.
I guess I'll try undoing the eccentric bolts.

Did you reuse the eccentric bolts, or replace them?
It says to replace on the torque spec sheet, but I highly doubt technicians replace them after every alignment.
I only have new bolts for the shock and subframe and didn't want to wait another few days to get the parts.

Again, thanks for your help moproblem!

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Thanks for the feedback.
Unfortunately, I work on my car at night, so it's not easy to get help.
I tried pulling the caliper outwards, but it was a little nerve wracking to see the whole car tilting on the Quick Jack.

I like the prybar approach but as far as I could tell, there didn't seem to be a good spot to get leverage.
I guess I'll try undoing the eccentric bolts.

Did you reuse the eccentric bolts, or replace them?
It says to replace on the torque spec sheet, but I highly doubt technicians replace them after every alignment.
I only have new bolts for the shock and subframe and didn't want to wait another few days to get the parts.

Again, thanks for your help moproblem!

I would not undo the eccentrics just yet. Try pushing on the top of the rotor while pulling on the bottom, camber arm is loose and the arm is too far in, that should bring it out. Remember, you are trying to pivot the knuckle, not pull the car off the quickjack. Removing the eccentric at the knuckle will just double your problem.

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by moproblems

I would not undo the eccentrics just yet. Try pushing on the top of the rotor while pulling on the bottom, camber arm is loose and the arm is too far in, that should bring it out. Remember, you are trying to pivot the knuckle, not pull the car off the quickjack. Removing the eccentric at the knuckle will just double your problem.

Gotcha. Thanks.
I'm pretty sure I tried doing that last night, but with the spring tension and the jack firmly holding the arm in place, it wouldn't budge.
By undoing the eccentric bolts, I meant removing the rear springs and bolting in the subframe bolt first and then working my way out towards the wheel bearing.
I was assuming it's easier to line up the holes on the knuckle side than on the subframe side.

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Gotcha. Thanks.
I'm pretty sure I tried doing that last night, but with the spring tension and the jack firmly holding the arm in place, it wouldn't budge.
By undoing the eccentric bolts, I meant removing the rear springs and bolting in the subframe bolt first and then working my way out towards the wheel bearing.
I was assuming it's easier to line up the holes on the knuckle side than on the subframe side.

It is, but try it one more time. If you have a harbor freight nearby get a set of these https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-68339.html

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by moproblems

It is, but try it one more time. If you have a harbor freight nearby get a set of these https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-68339.html

Thank you, sir!
I'll grab one of these on my way home today and try it again.
Hopefully I use less cuss words tonight

[mattssi]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Sorry for the never-ending questions, but I need help with the rear camber control arm - rear subframe bolt.
I'm having a hell of a time trying to put the bolt back in between the camber control arm & subframe.
As you can see in the picture, the whole arm needs to be pulled towards the outside of the vehicle but with the jack I have, it seems almost impossible to do so.
And I've tried like 20 different jacking spots on the arm but no dice.

mattssi moproblems
Sorry for tagging you guys, but how easy or difficult was it to do it by removing the camber/eccentric bolts/nuts?
Were you able to line up the previous position(camber) with ease?
Any recommendation in reassembly sequence? (Which bolts first?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You need more room when using that method I believe. That’s why I went with the camber bolt. I just used a marker and marked it, then put it back in position when tightening down. It was good enough to drive for a few weeks before trying and alignment. It was not difficult to keep it close enough I place and tighten up.

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by mattssi

You need more room when using that method I believe. That’s why I went with the camber bolt. I just used a marker and marked it, then put it back in position when tightening down. It was good enough to drive for a few weeks before trying and alignment. It was not difficult to keep it close enough I place and tighten up.

Thanks for the response, mattssi.
I thought Quick Jack's lift was enough to work on it.
I have no issues getting enough leverage to torque the bolts, it's just that using the jack to compress the springs and to align the holes turned out to be a lot more difficult than I anticipated.