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      09-04-2021, 06:47 AM   #1
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How to replace rear brake pads

Apologies if the title is misleading!

I’m asking, has anyone created a how to on replacing the rear brake pads? I’m planning on as many track days as I can afford and all I’m reading about is how quickly the rear pads wear out. It’s encouraging to hear of options other than stock becoming available as well.

Any advice / help is greatly appreciated!!
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      09-06-2021, 06:32 PM   #2
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Any chance someone can confirm that the rear brakes on this X3 are same / similar procedure to replace pads?

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...fe&action=view
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      09-07-2021, 09:54 AM   #3
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Yes, the calipers are the same as those used on the G80/82. They are made by TRW, and the pad swap procedure is the same.

Yes to the broken sensor question too.
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Last edited by Boomer 2019; 09-07-2021 at 01:25 PM..
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      09-07-2021, 12:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer 2019 View Post
Yes, the calipers are the same as those used on the G80/82. They are made by TRW, and the pad swap procedure is the same.
Have you broken a sensor yet?
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      09-07-2021, 02:42 PM   #5
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Thank you Boomer 2019 - I guess I didn't even know to ask. Are you saying I will need a new sensor every time I swap out the rear pads?

Any chance you can also confirm that the tooling and nut / bolt sizes are the same?

I know I am asking a lot, sorry about that!!
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      09-07-2021, 06:50 PM   #6
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Because I track my cars frequently, when I first break a pad sensor wire I just tie it up out of the way and don't bother to replace it until I am going to trade the car in. If I were to replace it, it would just break again at some point due to stress and strain, or heat. Waste of money since I know what the status of my pads are from frequent checking anyway. The BMW OEM rear pads for these cars come with new caliper clips and screws with each set. The EBC pads do not, and I have no knowledge of other companies products.
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      09-07-2021, 07:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrspeed636 View Post
Thank you Boomer 2019 - I guess I didn't even know to ask. Are you saying I will need a new sensor every time I swap out the rear pads?

Any chance you can also confirm that the tooling and nut / bolt sizes are the same?

I know I am asking a lot, sorry about that!!
You can reuse the sensor as long as it hasn't triggered
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      09-11-2021, 05:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrspeed636 View Post
Thank you Boomer 2019 - I guess I didn't even know to ask. Are you saying I will need a new sensor every time I swap out the rear pads?

Any chance you can also confirm that the tooling and nut / bolt sizes are the same?

I know I am asking a lot, sorry about that!!
You need a 13mm box end wrench and a small Adjustable wrench to hold the slide bolt as you Remove the sliding caliper bolts.

Also a 9v battery and wire to retract the motor by connecting it to the two contacts in the motor side plug. Saves a ton of time removing the electronic parking brake motor

Some high temp anti-seize and a small flat screw driver to pull the sensor.

Incidentally the EBCs had a spot to mount the wear sensor, so I reinstalled it.

My pads wore harder in the outside
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      09-18-2021, 10:01 PM   #9
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Thanks again. I pick mine up on the 28th, VIR 11/14 and 11/15. I’ll have a spare set of blue stuff standing by.
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      09-19-2021, 07:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrspeed636 View Post
Thanks again. I pick mine up on the 28th, VIR 11/14 and 11/15. I'll have a spare set of blue stuff standing by.
I did a track day Friday, 90 mins - wore about 1/3

MDM set to zero

Dust-o-rama
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      12-19-2021, 03:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachBmmr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrspeed636 View Post
Thank you Boomer 2019 - I guess I didn't even know to ask. Are you saying I will need a new sensor every time I swap out the rear pads?

Any chance you can also confirm that the tooling and nut / bolt sizes are the same?

I know I am asking a lot, sorry about that!!
You need a 13mm box end wrench and a small Adjustable wrench to hold the slide bolt as you Remove the sliding caliper bolts.

Also a 9v battery and wire to retract the motor by connecting it to the two contacts in the motor side plug. Saves a ton of time removing the electronic parking brake motor

Some high temp anti-seize and a small flat screw driver to pull the sensor.

Incidentally the EBCs had a spot to mount the wear sensor, so I reinstalled it.

My pads wore harder in the outside
Goddamn those rear calipers look like some kind of sick joke.

Anyway, how did the EBC's hood up? I use PFC-08 on my F80. How do they compare?
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      12-19-2021, 06:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by beachBmmr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrspeed636 View Post
Thank you Boomer 2019 - I guess I didn't even know to ask. Are you saying I will need a new sensor every time I swap out the rear pads?

Any chance you can also confirm that the tooling and nut / bolt sizes are the same?

I know I am asking a lot, sorry about that!!
You need a 13mm box end wrench and a small Adjustable wrench to hold the slide bolt as you Remove the sliding caliper bolts.

Also a 9v battery and wire to retract the motor by connecting it to the two contacts in the motor side plug. Saves a ton of time removing the electronic parking brake motor

Some high temp anti-seize and a small flat screw driver to pull the sensor.

Incidentally the EBCs had a spot to mount the wear sensor, so I reinstalled it.

My pads wore harder in the outside
Goddamn those rear calipers look like some kind of sick joke.

Anyway, how did the EBC's hood up? I use PFC-08 on my F80. How do they compare?
Well Ive been through 3 sets of front and 2 sets of rears. My last track session I went hard and 2 hour long sessions wore through the fronts in 50 laps./120 miles. I believe heat is now the issue and will attempt to address cooling. I am going to start by trimming my backing plate and making some deflectors that mount to the control arms and direct airflow toward the rotor center.

Many tests have been done to show deflection is more effective than ducting.

Vorshlag did some testing and makes some deflection kits.

https://vorshlag-store.com/products/...-deflector-kit

I do have a set of RP-1 I got delivered last week which have leas bite and better wear characteristics. Ill try them next, but heat is an issue - I have heat checking all my rotor face.

Edit- btw, get bimmerlink to retract your rear calipers and reset your codes. If you move your pistons around and dont press your pedal before you start the car it freaks out the abs and thinks you have a brake line leak and throws a bunch of codes and makes the car undriveable. Brake by wire sucks…
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      12-22-2021, 02:12 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info! Interested to hear your results yet again. I will not be back on track until Feb and that's only if the weather cooperates.

Definitely thank you for the info on Bimmerlink!
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      12-22-2021, 02:54 PM   #14
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ISTA+ works, might be the cheapest/best option.
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      12-22-2021, 04:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachBmmr View Post

Edit- btw, get bimmerlink to retract your rear calipers and reset your codes. If you move your pistons around and dont press your pedal before you start the car it freaks out the abs and thinks you have a brake line leak and throws a bunch of codes and makes the car undriveable. Brake by wire sucks…
I've never used bimmerlink, it it a similar to bimmercode, just plug and play with a OBD adapter?
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      12-22-2021, 06:41 PM   #16
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ISTA+ works, might be the cheapest/best option.
Windows 10 is a deal breaker for me.
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      12-22-2021, 06:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
I've never used bimmerlink, it it a similar to bimmercode, just plug and play with a OBD adapter?
yes. Although bimmerlink wants the phone in airplane mode with all networks except the cable disabled...They are built by the same people.
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      07-02-2022, 04:38 AM   #18
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Bumping this.

I ran out of the rear pads yesturday on a trackday.
Watched this video of replacement in rear and there is no mentioning of retracting the pistons electric or resetting by PC.



I used the same tool as in the video and waiting for new pads.

Will i get a problem when installed and starting the car up?
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      07-02-2022, 10:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HebbeM3 View Post
Bumping this.

I ran out of the rear pads yesturday on a trackday.
Watched this video of replacement in rear and there is no mentioning of retracting the pistons electric or resetting by PC.



I used the same tool as in the video and waiting for new pads.

Will i get a problem when installed and starting the car up?
We did not encounter any issues
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      07-02-2022, 10:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by HebbeM3 View Post
Bumping this.

I ran out of the rear pads yesturday on a trackday.
Watched this video of replacement in rear and there is no mentioning of retracting the pistons electric or resetting by PC.



I used the same tool as in the video and waiting for new pads.

Will i get a problem when installed and starting the car up?
We did not encounter any issues
Ok, Nice to hear.
Seems to be different veiws on this.

Some say push the piston back with a special tool.

Some say rewind the electric handbrake engine with a battery and cables.

Some release the handbrake engine and rewind manual with a hextool.

Some that you need a PC with correct software to reset everything.

Confusing
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      07-02-2022, 11:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HebbeM3 View Post
Ok, Nice to hear.
Seems to be different veiws on this.

Some say push the piston back with a special tool.

Some say rewind the electric handbrake engine with a battery and cables.

Some release the handbrake engine and rewind manual with a hextool.

Some that you need a PC with correct software to reset everything.

Confusing
We did have to release the handbrake
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      07-03-2022, 09:09 AM   #22
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When I swapped my rears a couple months ago, I invested in the bimmerlink app. Connected the app to my LX adapter, put the rear parking brake into "service mode", and was able to compress the rear pistons just a few mm's by hand. Worked well and bimmerlink made it quick.

Once done, just take the rears out of service mode.

I've seen a couple owners mention fault codes from pistons being compressed and firing up the car. Good trick is to pump the pedal a few times before starting the car. Nice plus with bimmerlink is that you can read/clear codes.
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