[calbears]

Originally Posted by jmg

I never experienced boiled fluid with the factory brake pads and MPS4S. However, I've never run track pads and CUP2s with the factory fluid. Maybe the factory pad and MPS4S combo doesn't need racing fluid?

wouldn't hurt and it's a small cost change

[Dirtbikerr450]

Originally Posted by calbears

wouldn't hurt and it's a small cost change

I agree. I have 2 track day sessions booked for this year. I plan on doing Castrol SFR fluid and that will be my only track prep item. Easy enough to do.

[dimab0]

Originally Posted by Toehead93

I know this is a really old thread but IMO using stock fluid on a track is very dangerous. During my time at Sengirng's short course (which does not include the long straights) my pedal dropped to the floor in the middle of the second session. At that time I was a novice driver so the car was not being pushed as hard as I drive now.

Stock fluid on a G80/G82 is DOT 4. What stock are you talking about here? For other cars is may not be DOT 4, but the M3/M4 stock should be totally fine.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by Dirtbikerr450

I agree. I have 2 track day sessions booked for this year. I plan on doing Castrol SFR fluid and that will be my only track prep item. Easy enough to do.

Keep on eye on the SRF as I've seen it start eating away at the surface of seals in other cars. There are also plenty of stories from long ago about the same issue from all sorts of cars.

I'm a fan of Motul RBF660 since it's a slightly higher dry boiling point and for a better price. I do a half dozen HPDEs per year and I flush out the fluid in the calipers before every event so wet boiling temperatures aren't a concern. I did that when I used Castrol SRF as well.

Endless RF650 is another popular option and I picked up several liters for about $25 per bottle shipped from Japan. Once it's gone, I'll be back to Motul brake fluid as I haven't noticed any differences. RBF660 is a really great option for the price point and RBF600 is even better for some.

[BackOnBlack]

^^^ Same here, I prefer the Motul 660 as well, but next time I will try the 700.

Also, as far as I know, the DOT4 BMW brake fluid is perfectly fine when it is new. With any brake fluid, its life is far more important than other parameters because they all absorb moisture as they heat up. None of them have high enough of a wet boiling point to be effective on track after 6-8 track days. I used to change brake fluids every other event and never had issues with boiling, and I never kept any brake fluid in the car for more than 3 months. Maybe I was overdoing it, but for a $20-25 expense, it is even silly to discuss it IMHO.

[Boomer 2019]

I have been using SRF exclusively in my cars for over 5 years now and have never had a problem with it. I do about 20-25 track days a year and flush and replace about every 3 months. I know it's more expensive but as consumables go it amounts to just a drop in the old bucket. Shall we talk tires and racing brake pads? As a friend once told me "if it's good enough for F-1, it's good enough for me".

As for using generic non high boiling point DOT 4 on a track, I don't think this is a very good idea. I still remember when I first learned what brake fade was, and it was not a pleasant experience. When it comes to brake pedals, give me a high hard one. The cost to replace your stock fluid with a high boiling point one is not that much, and the peace of mind is priceless. As a novice you already have plenty of things on your mind. Why not offload one.

[BackOnBlack]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

I have been using SRF exclusively in my cars for over 5 years now and have never had a problem with it. I do about 20-25 track days a year and flush and replace about every 3 months. I know it's more expensive but as consumables go it amounts to just a drop in the old bucket. Shall we talk tires and racing brake pads? As a friend once told me "if it's good enough for F-1, it's good enough for me".

As for using DOT 4 on a track, I don't think this is a very good idea. I still remember when I first learned what brake fade was, and it was not a pleasant experience. When it comes to brake pedals, give me a high hard one. The cost to replace your stock fluid with a high boiling point one is not that much, and the peace of mind is priceless. As a novice you already have plenty of things on your mind. Why not offload one.

I agree with your first paragraph completely, and would agree with your second paragraph, if you had meant DOT 3 fluid. DOT 5 is not approved on street cars to my best knowledge. SRF is DOT 4.

[Boomer 2019]

I was referring to using generic DOT 4 as opposed to using a high temp fluid. Fixed it. I know that high temp fluids including SRF are also DOT 4. I don't know where you got the DOT 5 from.

[OwnerF16]

Taking my 2023 G82 to Roebling this month and I’m as novice as they get so as always I appreciate the community feed on this topic. Cheers

[AhsanU]

Originally Posted by OwnerF16

Taking my 2023 G82 to Roebling this month and I’m as novice as they get so as always I appreciate the community feed on this topic. Cheers

As a complete novice, make sure your car can actually pass tech inspection. Your car should be inspected by someone at the track to ensure it is safe to drive prior to your first session and that inspection will ensure you won’t have to worry about the car itself. I’ve attached an example of one, each event and track may have something different.

You should also use a coach/instructor. Despite having many hours under my belt, each time I visit a new track, I make sure to use an instructor/coach to ensure that I’m not losing time/speed anywhere and know the best and quickest way to enter and exit a corner. I plan on attending Watkins Glen and VIR this year, I’ll definitely be using a coach for at least the first few sessions.

Lastly, it’s not a competition and don’t let your ego get in the way or becoming a better driver. It’s okay to be passed by a track spec Miata or a stripped out E36 M3 - don’t crash your car trying to be faster than you’re capable of right now. Leave DSC on, buy track insurance, don’t treat the throttle like an on/off switch, and enjoy yourself. Seat time is more important than anything else, so get into the groove of it first before looking into better tyres/pads/fluids etc. Some people take a while to make that jump into taking track days more seriously, and some take a little while as they enjoy the process. Either way, take a deep breath and enjoy each session.

[BugKiller]

Originally Posted by Dhillon63

Cooling the car is what I'm more concerned about. More specifically warping the rotors. What's the best way? Proper cool down lap?

My first 'event' was a Russell Racing HP driving class at Sears Point (Infinion). I was having trouble following the line and pulled over to think about it, and stupidly left my foot on the brakes -- warped rotors. Lesson, stay off the brakes unless using them. I can't see why rotors will warp unless they are subjected to uneven stresses. So yes, cool down should help.

FYI: I was at BMW Performance Center West (BMW-speak for Thermal, Calif.) two weeks ago and was told that all the M3s and M4s they now use have carbon-ceramic brakes (and that they still are replaced twice during the year that a car is used there).

Beating this topic to death: I used to attend events where infrared 'guns' (hand-held, non-contact temperature measuring units) were used to determine if brakes were getting too hot. I have not seen that done recently, but those 'guns' are cheap on Amazon and there may even be cell phone apps for this now.

[eugenebmw]

Originally Posted by BugKiller

My first 'event' was a Russell Racing HP driving class at Sears Point (Infinion). I was having trouble following the line and pulled over to think about it, and stupidly left my foot on the brakes -- warped rotors. Lesson, stay off the brakes unless using them. I can't see why rotors will warp unless they are subjected to uneven stresses. So yes, cool down should help.

FYI: I was at BMW Performance Center West (BMW-speak for Thermal, Calif.) two weeks ago and was told that all the M3s and M4s they now use have carbon-ceramic brakes (and that they still are replaced twice during the year that a car is used there).

Beating this topic to death: I used to attend events where infrared 'guns' (hand-held, non-contact temperature measuring units) were used to determine if brakes were getting too hot. I have not seen that done recently, but those 'guns' are cheap on Amazon and there may even be cell phone apps for this now.

Always run a cool down lap with min. use of the brake to let them cool down as well as the engine before making a stop. Don't activate your parking brake when you are resting for the next round.

[OwnerF16]

Originally Posted by AhsanU

As a complete novice, make sure your car can actually pass tech inspection. Your car should be inspected by someone at the track to ensure it is safe to drive prior to your first session and that inspection will ensure you won’t have to worry about the car itself. I’ve attached an example of one, each event and track may have something different.

You should also use a coach/instructor. Despite having many hours under my belt, each time I visit a new track, I make sure to use an instructor/coach to ensure that I’m not losing time/speed anywhere and know the best and quickest way to enter and exit a corner. I plan on attending Watkins Glen and VIR this year, I’ll definitely be using a coach for at least the first few sessions.

Lastly, it’s not a competition and don’t let your ego get in the way or becoming a better driver. It’s okay to be passed by a track spec Miata or a stripped out E36 M3 - don’t crash your car trying to be faster than you’re capable of right now. Leave DSC on, buy track insurance, don’t treat the throttle like an on/off switch, and enjoy yourself. Seat time is more important than anything else, so get into the groove of it first before looking into better tyres/pads/fluids etc. Some people take a while to make that jump into taking track days more seriously, and some take a little while as they enjoy the process. Either way, take a deep breath and enjoy each session.

Hopefully this will help me enjoy the sessions a little bit more. Really appreciate all of the details and information in your reply.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by BugKiller

My first 'event' was a Russell Racing HP driving class at Sears Point (Infinion). I was having trouble following the line and pulled over to think about it, and stupidly left my foot on the brakes -- warped rotors. Lesson, stay off the brakes unless using them. I can't see why rotors will warp unless they are subjected to uneven stresses. So yes, cool down should help.

FYI: I was at BMW Performance Center West (BMW-speak for Thermal, Calif.) two weeks ago and was told that all the M3s and M4s they now use have carbon-ceramic brakes (and that they still are replaced twice during the year that a car is used there).

Beating this topic to death: I used to attend events where infrared 'guns' (hand-held, non-contact temperature measuring units) were used to determine if brakes were getting too hot. I have not seen that done recently, but those 'guns' are cheap on Amazon and there may even be cell phone apps for this now.

Don't forget to remove the cover of your brake ducts in the wheel well liner!

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by AhsanU

As a complete novice, make sure your car can actually pass tech inspection. Your car should be inspected by someone at the track to ensure it is safe to drive prior to your first session and that inspection will ensure you won’t have to worry about the car itself.

The tech inspection should be performed a minimum of two weeks in advance of the event to give you time to resolve any issues. At the track, the only inspection to be done is a visual check for any leaking fluid, tire wear, and brake pad wear before and after all sessions.

If you're not replacing wheels a some part in a day, you don't even need a torque wrench. For the wheel bolt torque, you only need a way to check if any are noticeably loose when they've cooled off.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by BugKiller

Beating this topic to death: I used to attend events where infrared 'guns' (hand-held, non-contact temperature measuring units) were used to determine if brakes were getting too hot. I have not seen that done recently, but those 'guns' are cheap on Amazon and there may even be cell phone apps for this now.

I did that for my first couple of events. I still pack it but never use it.

You don't see the infrared temperature sensors often because it's not exactly actionable data. Most people don't know the limits of their braking system as far as temperature limits for various components because that information isn't typically published.

The two outcomes of someone seeing an arbitrarily chosen high temperature measurement is to either add cool down laps in the middle of a session or add extra cooling for the brakes, likely after the event. Both are good options to do no matter what.

[m4ml]

I've done a lot of work to my car that isn't necessary for a casual track event. I pretty much agree with others about something like high temp brake fluid though. It's inexpensive and a bit of a no-brainer.

With that said, here's my contribution... my track prep list (before/during/after):

Day Before:

• Load tires
• Wash car
• Apply Tracwrap
• Charge Impact Gun
• Pack Tools:
  • Tire Change Toolbag:
    • Impact Gun & Charger
    • Torque Bar
    • Jack Puck
    • Breaker Bar
    • Tire Pressure Gauge
    • Pyrometer
    • Work gloves
  • General Tool Bag
  • 3/8" Drive Set
  • Torque Wrench
  • Jack
• Pack Safety:
  • Balaclava
  • Helmet
  • Long Sleeve T-Shirt
  • Gloves
  • Shoes
• Pack Other:
  • Number Decals
  • Chair
  • Chair Umbrella
  • RAM Phone Mount
  • Phone Charger
  • Razor
  • Mechanic's Pad
  • Mechanic's towels
  • Tow hooks
  • Snacks and drinks

At Track:

• Install Tow Hooks
• Change Tires
• Remove Brake Duct Covers
• Adjust Dampers
• Apply Number Decals
• Setup Phone for Recording

Before Each Session:

• Torque Wheels
• Set/Record Cold Tire Pressure
• Turn on Lap Timer
• Turn on Drive Analyzer
• Set M settings
• Turn on M-Mode Track
• Fuel

End of Session:

• Cool down lap
• Open hood
• Record Hot Tire Pressure
• Take notes about the session

End of Day:

• Change Tires
• Replace Duct Covers
• Adjust Dampers
• Remove Number Decals
• Remove Tow Hooks
• Remove Tracwrap (might wait until I'm home)

[jmg]

Originally Posted by m4ml

I've done a lot of work to my car that isn't necessary for a casual track event. I pretty much agree with others about something like high temp brake fluid though. It's inexpensive and a bit of a no-brainer.

With that said, here's my contribution... my track prep list (before/during/after):

Day Before:

• Load tires
• Wash car
• Apply Tracwrap
• Charge Impact Gun
• Pack Tools:
  • Tire Change Toolbag:
    • Impact Gun & Charger
    • Torque Bar
    • Jack Puck
    • Breaker Bar
    • Tire Pressure Gauge
    • Pyrometer
    • Work gloves
  • General Tool Bag
  • 3/8" Drive Set
  • Torque Wrench
  • Jack
• Pack Safety:
  • Balaclava
  • Helmet
  • Long Sleeve T-Shirt
  • Gloves
  • Shoes
• Pack Other:
  • Number Decals
  • Chair
  • Chair Umbrella
  • RAM Phone Mount
  • Phone Charger
  • Razor
  • Mechanic's Pad
  • Mechanic's towels
  • Tow hooks
  • Snacks and drinks

At Track:

• Install Tow Hooks
• Change Tires
• Remove Brake Duct Covers
• Adjust Dampers
• Apply Number Decals
• Setup Phone for Recording

Before Each Session:

• Torque Wheels
• Set/Record Cold Tire Pressure
• Turn on Lap Timer
• Turn on Drive Analyzer
• Set M settings
• Turn on M-Mode Track
• Fuel

End of Session:

• Cool down lap
• Open hood
• Record Hot Tire Pressure
• Take notes about the session

End of Day:

• Change Tires
• Replace Duct Covers
• Adjust Dampers
• Remove Number Decals
• Remove Tow Hooks
• Remove Tracwrap (might wait until I'm home)

Good list!
I like to put the numbers on the night before. That way, road grime on the drive there doesn't interfere with the adhesive. If it's a multi day, I bring waterless car wash or detail spray to clean the car where the numbers go. Speaking of, don't forget the Spray Way for the windows and a bunch of microfiber towels.

Other things I didn't see in your packing list that I like to bring:

Cordless Air Compressor - Amazon

Small Quickshade for 1-3 people - Amazon - Smaller than an easy-up, but good for 1 to 3 people. It takes up half the space in your trunk.

Canopy Chair - Amazon - When you don't have room for the Quickshade but still don't want to bake.

Aluminum Racers Tape - Amazon - I like to tape my wheel weights just in case.

As far as Torquing the Wheels before each session, I would be careful not to overtighten hot wheels.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by jmg

Good list!
I like to put the numbers on the night before. That way, road grime on the drive there doesn't interfere with the adhesive. If it's a multi day, I bring waterless car wash or detail spray to clean the car where the numbers go. Speaking of, don't forget the Spray Way for the windows and a bunch of microfiber towels.

Other things I didn't see in your packing list that I like to bring:

Cordless Air Compressor - Amazon

Small Quickshade for 1-3 people - Amazon - Smaller than an easy-up, but good for 1 to 3 people. It takes up half the space in your trunk.

Canopy Chair - Amazon - When you don't have room for the Quickshade but still don't want to bake.

Aluminum Racers Tape - Amazon - I like to tape my wheel weights just in case.

As far as Torquing the Wheels before each session, I would be careful not to overtighten hot wheels.

Great tips!

I always have an air compressor in my trunk so I don't have it on the list. But, that should definitely be on the list as a reminder! I do have a chair and chair umbrella (two pieces instead of an integrated unit) on the list, but a small canopy might not be a bad addition to my stable. The one I have now is too large to fit with everything else in my car, but a smaller one like you mention might be perfect. I like the tape idea as well!

And I'm definitely adding the Spray Way to the list and post session checklist. Last time at Buttonwillow the windshield got pretty bad after two days. Not to mention the tire booger that slapped across the windshield, leaving a huge black streak right in the middle of my view.

Regarding torquing the lug nuts, I'll only do it just before a session, after everything has cooled off. I definitely don't do it while the wheels are hot.

Are you using the reusable number plates? Right now I'm running the one-time use and they definitely don't care about any grime that occurred on the way to the track. But, I can see where a reusable set could be problematic.

[Boomer 2019]

I have been using reusable vinyl numbers ever since I got my first G82. The reason being that the doors on these cars are made of aluminum. I had to retire my trusty magnetic numbers after years of use so I gave them to a friend, and I still see him using them from time to time.

Reusable vinyl stands up very well if you are careful when putting them on and taking them off. They also clean up easily. I have left them on for over a week in between weekend events, and they are still easy to remove. The trick is to catch an edge with something soft like a fingernail if you have them and then peel from there. I have used these for about 20-30 times, and they still have life.

The best place for numbers and graphics of all kinds is "FireStorm Graphics".

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

I have been using reusable vinyl numbers ever since I got my first G82. The reason being that the doors on these cars are made of aluminum. I had to retire my trusty magnetic numbers after years of use so I gave them to a friend, and I still see him using them from time to time.

Reusable vinyl stands up very well if you are careful when putting them on and taking them off. They also clean up easily. I have left them on for over a week in between weekend events, and they are still easy to remove. The trick is to catch an edge with something soft like a fingernail if you have them and then peel from there. I have used these for about 20-30 times, and they still have life.

The best place for numbers and graphics of all kinds is "FireStorm Graphics".

Nice! I'll check them out. One set of numbers that I use are definitely not reusable. Once you start peeling them off, they're done for. I have another set that I bought that were explicitly "reusable", but I haven't used them yet because I still have some of the non-reusable numbers left over. I'd definitely prefer reusable.

[rafaeldelrey]

How much fluid are you using in each replacement?
My brake (Cobalts pads, Motul RBF 600) overheated at the last track day. I think the right thing to do is to fully replace the fluid, isnt it?. I read above someone saying $20, but this would barely cover one bottle. The shop where I did the pad installation and fluid replacement used 3 bottles.