[Leadfoot Schier]

I have been thinking about adding active autowerkes or competitive catted downpipes to my current set up. Wanting to get a tune on the car but wondering if I should do this first. From personal experience is it worth the cost? I love the way it sounds with the midpipe and would be fine with a little louder but not abnoxious. I would most likely put a resonator in my current midpipe if i added the downpipes as I took those and the secondary cats out with the midpipe. I am looking for honest feedback. Thank you in advance.

Current set up:
2022 M4C X-drive
Eventuri intake
Active autowerkes single midpipe

[Hendo741]

Originally Posted by Leadfoot Schier

I have been thinking about adding active autowerkes or competitive catted downpipes to my current set up. Wanting to get a tune on the car but wondering if I should do this first. From personal experience is it worth the cost? I love the way it sounds with the midpipe and would be fine with a little louder but not abnoxious. I would most likely put a resonator in my current midpipe if i added the downpipes as I took those and the secondary cats out with the midpipe. I am looking for honest feedback. Thank you in advance.

Current set up:
2022 M4C X-drive
Eventuri intake
Active autowerkes single midpipe

My advice is get the unlock and tune first, as it is the far bigger and better upgrade, then decide on a DP. IDK if you've been paying attention, but big news just dropped with BM3 able to do flex fuel, anti lag, and map switching without use of a cloned ECU.

[Leadfoot Schier]

My worries is that supposedly the downpipes make a difference on the tune and relive back pressure on the turbos. My only hesitation is sound and how many horses the stock downpipes are made to withstand. I really don't want to have to tune twice but that may be the best option.

[tac3331]

Tune alone nets best power gains. Downpipes can add up to 50hp and help turbo responsiveness. Downpipes and catback with stock tune sounds fantastic.

[Hendo741]

Originally Posted by Leadfoot Schier

My worries is that supposedly the downpipes make a difference on the tune and relive back pressure on the turbos. My only hesitation is sound and how many horses the stock downpipes are made to withstand. I really don't want to have to tune twice but that may be the best option.

DPs will net you a small power increase. An actual tune will get alot more. Personally, I'm going to run an OTS map until I upgrade turbos and go PI. That's when I'll pull the trigger on a custom tune. No need to waste money on a custom tune for damn near stock.

[G MONEY]

Originally Posted by Hendo741

DPs will net you a small power increase. An actual tune will get alot more. Personally, I'm going to run an OTS map until I upgrade turbos and go PI. That's when I'll pull the trigger on a custom tune. No need to waste money on a custom tune for damn near stock.

I think a lot of people want the flex fuel and anti-lag. That's worth it right there I think. F those Piggy backs 😂

[Hendo741]

Originally Posted by G MONEY

I think a lot of people want the flex fuel and anti-lag. That's worth it right there I think. F those Piggy backs 😂

I agree. I had a JB4, and it is decent bang for buck, but its not as good, or safe as an actual tune. Not to mention cool shit like true flex fuel and antilag and all the other things you can program. exhaust flaps and burbles and checking E content from the dash.

Im so excited to get my ECU back!!

[G MONEY]

Originally Posted by Hendo741

I agree. I had a JB4, and it is decent bang for buck, but its not as good, or safe as an actual tune. Not to mention cool shit like true flex fuel and antilag and all the other things you can program. exhaust flaps and burbles and checking E content from the dash.

Im so excited to get my ECU back!!

Burbles? I out on that shit!! Lol. No burbles is better in my opinion. Especially when the exhaust sounds like shit to begin with. S-55/58 cough cough The burbles just add to the pain

[AhsanU]

It's a bit of a catch-22. However, when you say tune - do you mean a full ECU flash or a piggyback? It sounds like the former, so I'll proceed assuming so.

The lower the cell count of the aftermarket downpipes, the less air restriction and more reduction of backpressure. This opens up more power but also derestricts noise. So how in love with your current sound are you? If you are willing to give up a decent amount of volume for it then go for 200 cell as it's a sort-of sweet spot between fully catless and stock downpipes. I'm a huge proponent of MAD's downpipes as they're so well priced that you can base your car modification route around it. Here's a link to their 200 cell downpipes: https://mad-us.com/mad-bmw-s58-catte...-flex-section/

No, that's not an affiliate link, I don't make anything for linking it. I just support great products that are priced greatly.

That being said, you can first feel out the sound of your car with those downpipes on and if it's too loud - sell 'em. They're priced in such a way that you'll make a majority of your money back if you decide they're too loud. You can do that after you tune as well to see how much power you lose vs stock downpipes if you go back to them too. I don't think there's a dyno graph out there that depicts such a thing as most people that go for a full ECU tune tend to go balls out with catless downpipes.

If you're worried about the stock cats getting chewed up by excessive power - I really wouldn't if you're flash tuning. The life span of the stock catted downpipes does hinge on a few factors such as your AFR, the quality of the materials used in the OEM downpipe, etc. but if you've got a tuner working with you to make sure your car isn't running rich/lean, then you've got very little to worry about as the materials found in the OEM downpipe, obviously, are of higher quality.

[destoyan]

Originally Posted by Leadfoot Schier

My worries is that supposedly the downpipes make a difference on the tune and relive back pressure on the turbos. My only hesitation is sound and how many horses the stock downpipes are made to withstand. I really don't want to have to tune twice but that may be the best option.

I am speaking from my own experience. The car was just with Powerbox (Manhart MHTronik). After adding turbo-back exhaust (with Sportcat DP) alone from the hardware the car added 35 whp!
Just Powerbox - 545 whp
with turbo-back exhaust - 580 whp (on aggresive powerbox map 590 whp).
On closed valve the car sounds in low rpm as stock car, high rpm you notice the sound. Open valce - fun mode

You can check my detail review with dyno sheets here https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&highlight=r44

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Leadfoot Schier

I have been thinking about adding active autowerkes or competitive catted downpipes to my current set up. Wanting to get a tune on the car but wondering if I should do this first. From personal experience is it worth the cost? I love the way it sounds with the midpipe and would be fine with a little louder but not abnoxious. I would most likely put a resonator in my current midpipe if i added the downpipes as I took those and the secondary cats out with the midpipe. I am looking for honest feedback. Thank you in advance.

Current set up:
2022 M4C X-drive
Eventuri intake
Active autowerkes single midpipe

if you want power and sound, the catted downpipes are the best option.
Active Autowerke is the best since it does not trigger the check engine light.

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by AhsanU

It's a bit of a catch-22. However, when you say tune - do you mean a full ECU flash or a piggyback? It sounds like the former, so I'll proceed assuming so.

The lower the cell count of the aftermarket downpipes, the less air restriction and more reduction of backpressure. This opens up more power but also derestricts noise. So how in love with your current sound are you? If you are willing to give up a decent amount of volume for it then go for 200 cell as it's a sort-of sweet spot between fully catless and stock downpipes. I'm a huge proponent of MAD's downpipes as they're so well priced that you can base your car modification route around it. Here's a link to their 200 cell downpipes: https://mad-us.com/mad-bmw-s58-catte...-flex-section/

No, that's not an affiliate link, I don't make anything for linking it. I just support great products that are priced greatly.

That being said, you can first feel out the sound of your car with those downpipes on and if it's too loud - sell 'em. They're priced in such a way that you'll make a majority of your money back if you decide they're too loud. You can do that after you tune as well to see how much power you lose vs stock downpipes if you go back to them too. I don't think there's a dyno graph out there that depicts such a thing as most people that go for a full ECU tune tend to go balls out with catless downpipes.

If you're worried about the stock cats getting chewed up by excessive power - I really wouldn't if you're flash tuning. The life span of the stock catted downpipes does hinge on a few factors such as your AFR, the quality of the materials used in the OEM downpipe, etc. but if you've got a tuner working with you to make sure your car isn't running rich/lean, then you've got very little to worry about as the materials found in the OEM downpipe, obviously, are of higher quality.

Pretty much everything said above. Just keep in mind our 200 cell cats will not stop a cel from appearing. While there are ways around this I just want to be upfront and make that information known.

[BulkBen]

Originally Posted by destoyan

I am speaking from my own experience. The car was just with Powerbox (Manhart MHTronik). After adding turbo-back exhaust (with Sportcat DP) alone from the hardware the car added 35 whp!
Just Powerbox - 545 whp
with turbo-back exhaust - 580 whp (on aggresive powerbox map 590 whp).
On closed valve the car sounds in low rpm as stock car, high rpm you notice the sound. Open valce - fun mode

You can check my detail review with dyno sheets here https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&highlight=r44

Considering people are making 700hp and hitting 9’s on stock DP’s, these gains actually surprise me.
Did you measure boost when adding the exhaust and DPS?

Makes me wonder if adding the exhaust and DPs means a relatively stock car makes more boost, as a result of less back pressure.

Would be good to see a dyno graph where both before and after boost is kept constant (ie a custom tune) but from your example it seems clear the stock DPs and exhaust isn’t optimum.
How much that affects a car running a full tune vs piggyback remains to be seen.

[timmyg789]

Good question... like many I'm going to be going for 9's in this car. My only concern with going catless is most videos I watched this seems to bring a much more raspy sound to the exhaust. The 200 cell might be a good compromise to relieve back pressure and keep some rasp down???? (yeah I know people have done it with stock cats but your leaving a lot on the table)

[ZheroG80]

Originally Posted by timmyg789

Good question... like many I'm going to be going for 9's in this car. My only concern with going catless is most videos I watched this seems to bring a much more raspy sound to the exhaust. The 200 cell might be a good compromise to relieve back pressure and keep some rasp down???? (yeah I know people have done it with stock cats but your leaving a lot on the table)

I just ordered the mad catted dp's and have the single AA single midpipe with stock rear box. Whenever my ECU gets back from Russia which it's currently still stuck in the states due to the weather. I plan on pluggin in the ECU, going to my shop at work and installing the dp's (then I'll flash ecu with bm3). But I will update on rasp. Stock rear section should keep the rasp down along with the single mid pipe.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ZheroG80

I just ordered the mad catted dp's and have the single AA single midpipe with stock rear box. Whenever my ECU gets back from Russia which it's currently still stuck in the states due to the weather. I plan on pluggin in the ECU, going to my shop at work and installing the dp's (then I'll flash ecu with bm3). But I will update on rasp. Stock rear section should keep the rasp down along with the single mid pipe.

Congrats

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by timmyg789

Good question... like many I'm going to be going for 9's in this car. My only concern with going catless is most videos I watched this seems to bring a much more raspy sound to the exhaust. The 200 cell might be a good compromise to relieve back pressure and keep some rasp down???? (yeah I know people have done it with stock cats but your leaving a lot on the table)

Pretty much what you will be getting with that setup. Highly recommend it.

[destoyan]

Originally Posted by BulkBen

Considering people are making 700hp and hitting 9’s on stock DP’s, these gains actually surprise me.
Did you measure boost when adding the exhaust and DPS?

Makes me wonder if adding the exhaust and DPs means a relatively stock car makes more boost, as a result of less back pressure.

Would be good to see a dyno graph where both before and after boost is kept constant (ie a custom tune) but from your example it seems clear the stock DPs and exhaust isn’t optimum.
How much that affects a car running a full tune vs piggyback remains to be seen.

With the Manhart, I could do no logging/monitoring and can't tell real boost. Now I am running custom tune, but I am not willing to bring back the stock exhaust
Please keep in mind, that in Europe we have OPFs and this is big difference to US versions.

About 9s with 700hp ... not sure about that. If the car is with weight reduction and on drag strip with other tires ... perhaps it can do 9s.
When I see alone the leaderborads here (Ethanol/Recefuel and Pump fuel) - real people, real results ... only one 9s car and it was done on drag strip with prepared car and this car is definitely not 700hp (engine).

[Limegrntaln]

Active Autowerkes website quotes their catted downpipes at 500-850 hp capability.

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by Limegrntaln

Active Autowerkes website quotes their catted downpipes at 500-850 hp capability.

I believe those are maybe 400 maybe 500 cell. Ours will flow better if that's what your after. Advantage of the higher cell count is ability to possibly stop the cel from coming on.

[Limegrntaln]

Originally Posted by Info@mad-us.com

I believe those are maybe 400 maybe 500 cell. Ours will flow better if that's what your after. Advantage of the higher cell count is ability to possibly stop the cel from coming on.

I'm still trying to embrace the mod bug, and take the plunge. I'm trying to get there. I've almost never had a car that wasn't modded. I've built motored half a dozen 4G63s, and some other cars, but, there's something about this car, where its a little harder to push the buy button on performance mods. Maybe it's the $40,000 motor.

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by Limegrntaln

I'm still trying to embrace the mod bug, and take the plunge. I'm trying to get there. I've almost never had a car that wasn't modded. I've built motored half a dozen 4G63s, and some other cars, but, there's something about this car, where its a little harder to push the buy button on performance mods. Maybe it's the $40,000 motor.

From the s55 to the s58 the motors have been pretty solid.