10-18-2021, 07:09 PM | #243 | ||
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They better help you out one way or another. If they don't try to figure anything out, it's just because they know they'll sell the car in a minute if you back out. Whatever you do, don't let them get away with it, even if you have to go to another source for financing. I suggest you get pre approved by other banks to be ready to say "oh you can't extend it? Don't worry, I'll go with X bank". I'm not sure if right now the financing deals with BMW are better (a lot of times they are when there are promos, but not always) than another bank anyway. I typically go in with a quote from another bank before I choose whether to go with the dealer's/manufacturer's financial institution. At the end of the day, you're the one with the advantage here because, at least here in South Florida, you can flip that car for more than MSRP. I know you want it, but I'm just saying, I would buy it and sell it before letting it go. Good luck! |
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10-18-2021, 07:14 PM | #244 | |
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It might be buyer stereotype that i was a victim of. Because i look very young for my age and i did show up to the dealer with gym pants and a baseball cap, maybe he thought i wasn't serious lol.. And no, a hard pull won't affect my credit to the point where it'll be make or break on me getting the car. However having my credit ran a second time, just so they can say, "ok still good to go", is pointless to me. I know my credit is good to go. |
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10-18-2021, 07:17 PM | #245 | |
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I may inquire about that. Although if the car takes more than a month, why would i have to pay a lease payment/insurance on a car i haven't received yet. What happens if it takes months? There are some people on here i've read that the car has arrived at the port and stayed there for MONTHS because of a stop sale. I only have a RAM stop sale so i know i'm going to go over the 90 days. Is negotiation even applicable here? Maybe if i ask them, please extend to 120 days, and if the car isn't ready yet, then run my credit again to start the whole thing over? This is a lease btw. |
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10-18-2021, 07:21 PM | #246 | |
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Your last comment is what worries me actually. Because what happens if they make up some BS? Like they say, "oh sorry since the last time you were here, we can't offer you the car at MSRP anymore, so your monthly will go up because there's a slight mark up on the car now". What do i do then? Just cancel? Then i wanted 3+ months for nothing and the dealer will go ahead and jack the price on the car i built and make more money. I'm seeing used M3C's with minimal packages going for near 100k by me. That's USED. Imagine a brand new 2022 in a color combo almost everyone wants. They'll sell the car for 20k over MSRP easily. The ball is definitely in their court. |
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10-18-2021, 07:28 PM | #247 | ||
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I only have an email, I've thought about the scenario you're describing. If you have something in writing, you could throw the lawyer card. Not that it's worth paying legal fees over the car, but you can bluff.
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10-18-2021, 07:43 PM | #248 | |
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The only thing i have paper wise, was my build sheet he gave me before i left the dealer. I could've printed the same exact thing off my computer. The only thing i signed, was the application for them to run my credit. As well as putting all my personal info, job info etc. During the whole spiel after i found out the whole allocation/production number thing, and not having anything to show what i did at the dealer, they texted me basically my rate/monthly/residual etc. I definitely won't be doing any lawyer thing as i don't think it's that serious. The worse case scenario the only thing i'll lose is my time waiting. Has dealers did some shady shit like this in the past? Where after the 90 day rate, they switch up their story to get more money from the buyer in hopes he/she takes the bait? |
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10-18-2021, 08:21 PM | #249 | |
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Here’s what I think you should do now. Email your salesperson and say….”I don’t think my car will be ready by the time my rate lock ends. In hindsight, I really don’t know why you asked me to apply for financing so early. In any event, how can I extend the rate lock? I see that the current rates are good until Oct 31st plus a 90-day lock which brings it to Jan 31, 2022. Can you guarantee my rate will be the same once my car is ready? If not, I’m going to shop around for other financing now” He’ll probably help you extend the lock. You are not threatening to not buy the car, just not finance through BMWFS, which the dealership will get a cut.
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10-18-2021, 10:38 PM | #250 | ||
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Like you, I've bought most of my cars from the lot (whether new or used), but I've ordered before, and dealers have kept their word on what was negotiated. As a matter of fact, my last purchase was an order in February 2020. Negotiated the car down (good old days), and I thought "this is good, but I'll negotiate it a little bit more when the far is delivered." Car arrived in May 2020, and the world was a different place by then, as you know, and they could have come up with an excuse to sell me the car above our agreed price, let alone above MSRP, but they didn't, and we had no official documents signed before delivery. Obviously I didn't dare to ask for a lower price than what was already negotiated lol. Just telling you this long story to let you know that, although not always the case, there are still those out there that value relationships, so it'll likely be the case for you. The only issue is the 90-day thing, which they could say "the rate has to be higher, blah blah blah", but you could tell them you'll get financing elsewhere. So, technically the ball is in their court, but the most-likely scenario is that they'll keep their word on the agreed price. The biggest difference between ordering and buying off the lot is the time between the handshake and signing the paperwork. Just my opinion, and I really hope I'm right and all goes well. Keep us posted! |
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10-19-2021, 04:45 AM | #251 |
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Call me a Pollyanna, but in your situation I think sugar will work better than vinegar. Since a hard pull on your credit score won’t have any significant adverse effect, that’s your “BATNA” (best alternative to a negotiated agreement). That said, try persuading the dealer’s F&I manager or GM to extend the lock to 120 days, or call BMW FS yourself to see if it’s possible.
Given you’re only awaiting the RAM retrofit, the stop sale should only be a couple weeks, based on the latest experiences of other forum members. And given you’re leasing, it’s to your advantage to lock in the base rate you have (.00093, vs. .00096 as of October — and who knows what November will be). |
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10-19-2021, 06:09 AM | #252 |
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I'm week 6 at Bremerhaven due to RAM shortage now (I was told now they are retrofitting RAMs in Germany). Is it normal? Car is inbound to Toronto.
My SA said she added a note to "prioritize" my car but I don't have confident of how much it gonna do at this point. Any info on the availability of RAM at Bremerhaven? Any similar experience? |
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10-19-2021, 08:25 AM | #253 | |
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10-19-2021, 09:14 AM | #254 | |
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10-19-2021, 09:33 AM | #255 |
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I wonder if the destination VPC makes a difference? As a data point, my ordered G80 which was completed 9/23 or 9/24 went immediately to the port in Germany where it sat until departing on the Azul Ace to NJ early last week. As far as I know (based on the UK recall site when it was fully transparent), it left Germany with the RAM stop sale (as did plenty of other cars on that vessel).
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10-19-2021, 09:55 AM | #256 |
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An update on my end. Car arrived in Brunswick with the RAM stop sale. Car was processed through Brunswick in 3 days with stop sale repairs done and stop sale lifted. Released for carrier on day 4 and at my dealer 2 days later. I'll pick it up next week.
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10-19-2021, 10:12 AM | #257 |
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Great news. When did you find out the stop sale was lifted? Asking because mine is in Brunswick and stop sale was still on as of yesterday.
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10-19-2021, 10:16 AM | #258 |
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@shinzzze I also have a ram stop sale but hoping my car will be in Toronto by mid November. I was week 38 and I haven’t check in with my SA. I hope it’s not going to be 6 weeks….
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10-19-2021, 10:18 AM | #259 | |
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10-19-2021, 10:20 AM | #260 | ||
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10-19-2021, 11:56 AM | #261 | |
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If you're paying cash, they can still require a credit app, and you can require them to fuck off. It's just the stupid games dealers play. If you want a car, they have an alloc and you're going to finance anyway, I have no problem doing the app. It get's you the lock. Another thing that is nice about it is that you can get the finance negotiation out the way early. I have the .9% in writing, whereas some guys here got screwed by the fini managers padding the rates at contract signing. You have more leverage when you're not sitting there with a car waiting. |
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10-19-2021, 11:59 AM | #262 | |||
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10-19-2021, 12:02 PM | #263 | ||
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Before I got an allocation from my preferred dealership, I reached out to two more. One wanted me to fill out a credit app before putting me on the list. I said no, and he still called me to tell me he had an allocation before my preferred dealership had a chance to. No doubt many may ask for one. Still makes no sense to do it though
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10-19-2021, 12:34 PM | #264 | |
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Again, it makes sense to get a rate lock when the rate is favorable especially when there are supply issues. Normally, you'd never come close to expiring a rate in the duration of a normal car purchase. This isn't a normal car purchase. I ordered my car in July...it hasn't left the factory yet. By the time my contract is ready to be signed, two full lock cycles will have passed. It does zero harm to get the app done, and can only work in your favor. |
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