[Koala0802]

Thanks all. I just did this and it’s amazing. I have 1000 miles on it, going for break in this weekend.

I have my exhaust coming next week.

Scorpion Axle back exhaust
NVM Downpipes
Avior Performance midpipe

[BIGW0RM]

Question. How much sound difference between OEM open (reported 70%) vs full open (with controller or manually adjusted) is there?

I had the CG controller. It broke. Id like a louder start up again. Stock is way to quiet.

Pulling the fuse with them in OEM open seems the easiest. But I am willing to manually lock my valve open too. I like how member Dave? did it by removing the spring/top plate and keeping the servo in place. But if the sound difference is minor, I might just do the fuse pull for sake of ease.

[Reprosal]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Question. How much sound difference between OEM open (reported 70%) vs full open (with controller or manually adjusted) is there?

I had the CG controller. It broke. Id like a louder start up again. Stock is way to quiet.

Pulling the fuse with them in OEM open seems the easiest. But I am willing to manually lock my valve open too. I like how member Dave? did it by removing the spring/top plate and keeping the servo in place. But if the sound difference is minor, I might just do the fuse pull for sake of ease.

Am interested in this as well. Following.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

Am interested in this as well. Following.

Now that my valve is operating in OEM mode only. If I cold start and switch it to Sport+, it gets what sounds like, as loud as it was with the CG precision controller in 100% open. Im guessing the difference between 70% open and 100% open is probably around 5% difference.

Im thinking I will just try the fuse method with them open factory max and be happy with that.

[Reprosal]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Now that my valve is operating in OEM mode only. If I cold start and switch it to Sport+, it gets what sounds like, as loud as it was with the CG precision controller in 100% open. Im guessing the difference between 70% open and 100% open is probably around 5% difference.

Im thinking I will just try the fuse method with them open factory max and be happy with that.

I will try it today too if you want to compare sound notes sometime.

[emthreepa]

I have the DINAN exhaust valve controller and the difference is VERY SIGNIFICANT. I did not have it with the stock exhaust. I first had FI Exhaust Catback, then DINAN controller, which made a SIGNIFICANT difference, and then ARM Catted Downpipes added.

[Reprosal]

So I pulled the fuse out in cold start and sport +. Took it for a drive and heard a weird squeaking noise when driving.

Put the fuse back in and it stopped.. not sure if it was the flap or just coincidence of debris in the wheel/brake. Either way I am turned off from this. I may just do a resonator delete.

I miss my F82.. was able to unplug the ASD module in the trunk as well as the flaps right by the exhaust tips. Sigh.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

So I pulled the fuse out in cold start and sport +. Took it for a drive and heard a weird squeaking noise when driving.

Put the fuse back in and it stopped.. not sure if it was the flap or just coincidence of debris in the wheel/brake. Either way I am turned off from this. I may just do a resonator delete.

I miss my F82.. was able to unplug the ASD module in the trunk as well as the flaps right by the exhaust tips. Sigh.

I just tried this myself. I did not notice any odd sounds driving around.

Before I did this. I checked that my valve was completely shut. It was.

I then started my car. It was quiet. Then I went into Sport+ and it got loud.

I checked the valve while it idle in sports + and noticed the valve only looked about 30% open. Unless I am not looking at it correctly and its actually 70%. But it didnt look that open to me. Again, maybe I am looking at it wrong.

I went for a drive and sounded the same as what sport plus always sounds like. And cold starts with the fuse pulled, sound pretty darn close to how my car sounded when I had a valve controller in full open. When I parked and looked at my valves again, they where still in the same place. So mine didnt move at all (from exhaust) while the fuse was pulled and I went for a test drive.

But I am hesitant to keep the fuse pulled. I want to make sure that the valve doesnt open up more than this under throttle or load. For all I know, sport+ OEM mode could be 30% open for starts and it might move open even more as I throttle under load. So pulling the fuse might be louder for starts. But what if it needs to open up more under load? I dont know. But I heard keeping the valve shut under load was bad juju. So I'm hesitant.

If that is in fact 70% open. Then I see no problem with this mod and will go right back to it.

EDIT:

I now see that vette already mentioned the valves open up much more as you throttle on page 1. So that confirms the valve is not at 70% when you are in sport+ and idling.
Pulling the fuse is locking you in at whatever % sport+ uses at startup.

Im going to try the worm clamp method mentioned in this thread next.

[hrosenberg33]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

I just tried this myself. I did not notice any odd sounds driving around.

Before I did this. I checked that my valve was completely shut. It was.

I then started my car. It was quiet. Then I went into Sport+ and it got loud.

I checked the valve while it idle in sports + and noticed the valve only looked about 30% open. Unless I am not looking at it correctly and its actually 70%. But it didnt look that open to me. Again, maybe I am looking at it wrong.

I went for a drive and sounded the same as what sport plus always sounds like. And cold starts with the fuse pulled, sound pretty darn close to how my car sounded when I had a valve controller in full open. When I parked and looked at my valves again, they where still in the same place. So mine didnt move at all (from exhaust) while the fuse was pulled and I went for a test drive.

But I am hesitant to keep the fuse pulled. I want to make sure that the valve doesnt open up more than this under throttle or load. For all I know, sport+ OEM mode could be 30% open for starts and it might move open even more as I throttle under load. So pulling the fuse might be louder for starts. But what if it needs to open up more under load? I dont know. But I heard keeping the valve shut under load was bad juju. So I'm hesitant.

If that is in fact 70% open. Then I see no problem with this mod and will go right back to it.

Would you mind sharing what fuse you pulled? And where it’s located?

I did this “mod” with my RS5 and I would get a ton of droning when idling at around 3k RPM. Did you notice any droning?

Thanks!

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by hrosenberg33

Would you mind sharing what fuse you pulled? And where it’s located?

I did this “mod” with my RS5 and I would get a ton of droning when idling at around 3k RPM. Did you notice any droning?

Thanks!

Here you go.
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1631002949

Yes, you’ll hear more resonance 3-4k cruising. It’s no different than being in sport plus really. I’m just interested in this because stock cold starts are so weak.

[BIGW0RM]

Dont pull the fuse. I just edited my other post. The valve is NOT at 70% when you start the car and put it in sport+. You must be on the throttle to get them to fully open up to 70%. So if you pull the fuse at idle, you will lock yours in whatever % open sport+ uses at idle. Which doesnt look like much from what I could see.

[Reprosal]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Dont pull the fuse. I just edited my other post. The valve is NOT at 70% when you start the car and put it in sport+. You must be on the throttle to get them to fully open up to 70%. So if you pull the fuse at idle, you will lock yours in whatever % open sport+ uses at idle. Which doesnt look like much from what I could see.

I am not comfortable doing the manual zip tie process. This is a forever car for me until it ‘dies’. I may just do the primary resonator and secondary cats delete.

[1209582]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

I am not comfortable doing the manual zip tie process. This is a forever car for me until it ‘dies’. I may just do the primary resonator and secondary cats delete.

why not get the awron can flap?

[Reprosal]

Originally Posted by 1209582

why not get the awron can flap?

Because I don’t want to add/spend money a module to just control the exhaust.

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by 1209582

why not get the awron can flap?

If you’re not comfortable with zip ties I feel like cutting oem ecu wires is going to be a deal breaker for that one.

[1209582]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

Because I don’t want to add/spend money a module to just control the exhaust.

gotcha

Originally Posted by chris3g

If you’re not comfortable with zip ties I feel like cutting oem ecu wires is going to be a deal breaker for that one.

haha true. but could always have a shop do the install.

[JDUNITNOW]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Dont pull the fuse. I just edited my other post. The valve is NOT at 70% when you start the car and put it in sport+. You must be on the throttle to get them to fully open up to 70%. So if you pull the fuse at idle, you will lock yours in whatever % open sport+ uses at idle. Which doesnt look like much from what I could see.

I don't know if you want to spend more money but the Dinan valve controller has been great. Very noticeable difference especially in just sports. Sports ÷ is even better and install was not that horrible.

[Reprosal]

Originally Posted by chris3g

If you’re not comfortable with zip ties I feel like cutting oem ecu wires is going to be a deal breaker for that one.

I just don’t like the idea of zip ties holding valves open. Not a matter of being unable to do it. Just looks like a chop job.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by JDUNITNOW

I don't know if you want to spend more money but the Dinan valve controller has been great. Very noticeable difference especially in just sports. Sports ÷ is even better and install was not that horrible.

I’m totally open to it. I actually like having full control to keep oem or full open.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

I just don’t like the idea of zip ties holding valves open. Not a matter of being unable to do it. Just looks like a chop job.

There is a worm clamp method that no electronics are removed and it’s full open only also listed in this thread. That looks to be a easy solution. All you’re doing is removing a connection piece between the servo and valve. It looked pretty clean. It’s somewhere in this thread. I might try that next.

[Reprosal]

I wonder if Bimmerlink opens the flap fully so the fuse can be pulled.

There is also the age old debate of power loss with dynamic valves ‘disabled’ on other car forums.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Reprosal

I wonder if Bimmerlink opens the flap fully so the fuse can be pulled.

There is also the age old debate of power loss with dynamic valves ‘disabled’ on other car forums.

Ah, thats a good idea. If I had bimmerlink, I would try this. But I don't.