[Dhillon63]

I know it's still a little early but for those who have tracked their G80 did you guys do anything on the car? High temp brake fluid, nitrogen, etc?

[McLaren720s]

Depends on your level of experience. If you're novice to intermediate you can do absolutely nothing but monitor and adjust tire pressure at the track.

If you're an advanced or highly experienced driver, you can start looking at brake fluid, brake pads and stickier tires.

I am also a huge fan of letting the car cool off properly every 20-30 minutes or so, but to each their own.

[dimab0]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Depends on your level of experience. If you're novice to intermediate you can do absolutely nothing but monitor and adjust tire pressure at the track.

If you're an advanced or highly experienced driver, you can start looking at brake fluid, brake pads and stickier tires.

I am also a huge fan of letting the car cool off properly every 20-30 minutes or so, but to each their own.

I largely agree, though I'm unsure if there is much reason for different brake fluid or pads - those that come stock with the car seem very sufficient so far for me, after 3 track days and heavy use.

I did no prep to my car before tracking, but monitored brakes and tires throughout. Had no issues. There was some tire wear but seemed expected. Maybe I'll get new tires in a year after a few more track days this year.

[modat]

PPF the front so your car doesn't get jacked up

[Dhillon63]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Depends on your level of experience. If you're novice to intermediate you can do absolutely nothing but monitor and adjust tire pressure at the track.

If you're an advanced or highly experienced driver, you can start looking at brake fluid, brake pads and stickier tires.

I am also a huge fan of letting the car cool off properly every 20-30 minutes or so, but to each their own.

Cooling the car is what I'm more concerned about. More specifically warping the rotors. What's the best way? Proper cool down lap?

[Dhillon63]

Originally Posted by modat

PPF the front so your car doesn't get jacked up

Full PPF is happening so no issues there lol

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by Dhillon63

Cooling the car is what I'm more concerned about. More specifically warping the rotors. What's the best way? Proper cool down lap?

Rears are going to get hot no matter what. Cooldown lap or two would help.

For the front, there are brake duct covers. Move the steering wheel in turns to full lock both ways to access the covers for removal.

There is a track specific forum here for more details - https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=895

[dimab0]

Originally Posted by Dhillon63

Cooling the car is what I'm more concerned about. More specifically warping the rotors. What's the best way? Proper cool down lap?

A cool down lap is always a good idea. But I'd be shocked if you were able to warp rotors. These cars get beat on badly at the performance centers during long sessions, the rotors hold up through that.

[jmg]

I have tracked my F80 many times, this weekend will be my first time in the G82. It will be a short course Time Attack and for now I am keeping it completely stock. I'm totally prepared to do lots of tire and brake management to get a baseline of what the car can do. If getting a factory baseline isn't important to you, you should probably at least replace the brake fluid for higher temp like Castrol SRF.

After this first event, I am planning a similar route I took for my F80 M3 CS and I have already ordered the following:

Race Pads - EBC Bluestuff
Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF
Camber Plates - Millway Uniball Race
KW HAS

Tires - still debating if I should go square or keep the factory staggered setup. I have X-Drive so I have to stay within 1% rolling diameter front to back and getting 285/30/20 or 295/30/20 in 200 or less TW is difficult. Cup2 180 tw (Mercedes) or the BMW Star Cup2's are a strong possibility if I keep using the factory wheels.

Alignment will probably be similar to my F80: -3.4, 0 toe front, -2.3, 1/8 toe rear. I'm guessing the G8X is much the same as the F80 where camber is necessary to keep tire expenses to a reasonable level once you start really going fast and going to the track as often as once or twice a month. You can easily destroy a $1700 set of MPS4S in one day if you are going 9/10th trying to set PBs all day. However, most people going 7/10ths for one or two track days a year don't really need more negative camber.

Nitrogen - You're going to bleed and pump air as temp and pressure fluctuate through the day. So unless you plan on brining a tank of nitrogen, don't bother.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Dhillon63

Cooling the car is what I'm more concerned about. More specifically warping the rotors. What's the best way? Proper cool down lap?

You're going to boil your brake fluid and glaze your pads before you warp your rotors. The fix is almost always proper cool down laps.

Things to look out for:

DSC lights flashing on every corner - You are overdriving the car. This can lead to bad habits and this:

Brakes aren't as efficient, braking distances have increased dramatically - you are overheating your brakes. Take cool down laps, take the intensity down a notch. DSC adds to brake pad fatigue because it uses the brakes to correct stability issues, so either turn off DSC, which is not recommended for beginners, or pay attention to your DSC light. If it's flashing, you are likely doing something wrong and overdriving the car. Use it as a guide.

Spongy brake feeling - boiled fluid.
Fix: flush. The chemical composition of the fluid has been compromised. Take extra precaution because your braking is severely handicapped at this point, and it will be easier to boil your fluid.

Vibrations during braking - pad deposits have formed on your rotors because overheated pads were allowed to come in contact with the rotor while static, melting brake pad onto the rotor. Fix: Hard braking to scrub the deposits off. Take cool down laps with minimal braking before you head back to the paddock.

You have flown off the track even though you stood on your brakes and now you need to call a tow truck just to get home - You have failed your brakes and they have failed you because you didn't heed the warning signs above!

[McLaren720s]

I don't think most people, with the exception of very advanced drivers, will overheat or get the stock brakes to fade. They are pretty damn good!

[jmg]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

I don't think most people, with the exception of very advanced drivers, will overheat or get the stock brakes to fade. They are pretty damn good!

Depends on the track too. When I was still starting out I had fade on my first day at Willow Springs, which is a fast track with a few big brake zones. Then again, that was in my F80. My first time attack in the G82 is this weekend!

[Toehead93]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Depends on your level of experience. If you're novice to intermediate you can do absolutely nothing but monitor and adjust tire pressure at the track.

If you're an advanced or highly experienced driver, you can start looking at brake fluid, brake pads and stickier tires.

I am also a huge fan of letting the car cool off properly every 20-30 minutes or so, but to each their own.

I know this is a really old thread but IMO using stock fluid on a track is very dangerous. During my time at Sengirng's short course (which does not include the long straights) my pedal dropped to the floor in the middle of the second session. At that time I was a novice driver so the car was not being pushed as hard as I drive now.

[FC4]

At very beginner levels, a stock car will hold up fine. If it's your first time, and you don't plan on going often, then have at it stock. At a novice pace, there is more than enough headroom.

For for anyone serious about trackdays who pushes the car at an advanced level...it's simply a waste of time and downright foolish to track on stock pads/fluid/tires.

[eugenebmw]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Depends on your level of experience. If you're novice to intermediate you can do absolutely nothing but monitor and adjust tire pressure at the track.

If you're an advanced or highly experienced driver, you can start looking at brake fluid, brake pads and stickier tires.

I am also a huge fan of letting the car cool off properly every 20-30 minutes or so, but to each their own.

I will say if you are novice and even intermediate, you cool off and take breaks for your body and mind too. I saw so many novice drivers were totally exhausted at the end of the day. Have fun

[eugenebmw]

Remove the brake cooling duct covers if you have a G8x before tracking and put them back at the end of the day

[eugenebmw]

Depend on which track you go, some require your car to have the towing strap/hook installed on front and back

[Gottagofast]

Last summer when I attended my first and so far only track day with this car, things went well right until braking distance started increasing at the end of the day. The thing is, the brakes were fine, but I had destroyed the front tires on my way to breaking the lap record.

I did not have any braking issues as I opened the front vents before I started and I wanted to make sure the brakes remained consistent so I did 3 hot laps in a row and experienced no fade what so ever. It did, however, damage my Pirellis a bit. Expecting a car this heavy to maintain tire life in the middle of summer while pulling 1.25G in the corners is not realistic. That being said I had every driving aids turned off and DSC did not get a chance to cook my brakes.

https://fastestlaps.com/tracks/toronto-motorsports-park

View post on imgur.com

[Forzanerazzurri]

Originally Posted by Gottagofast

Last summer when I attended my first and so far only track day with this car, things went well right until braking distance started increasing at the end of the day. The thing is, the brakes were fine, but I had destroyed the front tires on my way to breaking the lap record.

I did not have any braking issues as I opened the front vents before I started and I wanted to make sure the brakes remained consistent so I did 3 hot laps in a row and experienced no fade what so ever. It did, however, damage my Pirellis a bit. Expecting a car this heavy to maintain tire life in the middle of summer while pulling 1.25G in the corners is not realistic. That being said I had every driving aids turned off and DSC did not get a chance to cook my brakes.

https://fastestlaps.com/tracks/toronto-motorsports-park

View post on imgur.com

Looks like normal track wear to me, not "Damage"

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Gottagofast

Last summer when I attended my first and so far only track day with this car, things went well right until braking distance started increasing at the end of the day. The thing is, the brakes were fine, but I had destroyed the front tires on my way to breaking the lap record.

I did not have any braking issues as I opened the front vents before I started and I wanted to make sure the brakes remained consistent so I did 3 hot laps in a row and experienced no fade what so ever. It did, however, damage my Pirellis a bit. Expecting a car this heavy to maintain tire life in the middle of summer while pulling 1.25G in the corners is not realistic. That being said I had every driving aids turned off and DSC did not get a chance to cook my brakes.

https://fastestlaps.com/tracks/toronto-motorsports-park

View post on imgur.com

Those tires look completely normal after a track day. Those globules will fall off eventually. The factory brake pads will decrease their effectiveness at higher temps. The increased braking distances is the brake fade. I usually take a cool down lap if it starts to get sketchy.

[CDunster]

I track my cars about 600+ miles per year. For the G80, I recommend PPF on the front clip and proper tires/inflation. Most track days are 20-30 minute sessions with ample cool down periods. No need for improved brakes fluids (just flush/change frequently) or cooling (cooling on these cars is already stout). Have fun!

[jmg]

Originally Posted by CDunster

I track my cars about 600+ miles per year. For the G80, I recommend PPF on the front clip and proper tires/inflation. Most track days are 20-30 minute sessions with ample cool down periods. No need for improved brakes fluids (just flush/change frequently) or cooling (cooling on these cars is already stout). Have fun!

I never experienced boiled fluid with the factory brake pads and MPS4S. However, I've never run track pads and CUP2s with the factory fluid. Maybe the factory pad and MPS4S combo doesn't need racing fluid?