[mattssi]

Originally Posted by jhanksevo

Am I the only one having issues removing that 21mm camber bolt. I'm like wtf

They're on good. Good luck torquing it to spec too

[Jhanksm3]

Finally got it putting that bolt back in f that

[clamchauda]

Originally Posted by Jhanksm3

Am I the only one having issues removing that 21mm camber bolt. I'm like wtf

Just put H&R Springs on my 22 M3 Base…. I found it significantly easier to avoid the Camber Bolt and remove the inner control arm bolt. We found getting it realigned afterwards pretty easy all things considered.

Also, for anyone else doing this… another thing I want to say that wasn’t mentioned (or I’m oblivious and missed it completely) is that the rear shock bolt is TTY, so it’s technically one time use only. If you want to replace the bolt and the nut here are their part numbers:

Bolt: 07119905610
Nut: 33326760668

[PipeM3]

Great write up! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[darkbluemn]

Great info thanks a lot!

[seirk]

Two years later and this post is still gold - thanks tdott!

I used the instructions to install Eibach 20mm Front-Only springs and it was surprisingly easy. For anyone else using tdott's guide, my extra notes for the front only:
- when using a jack to lift the front control arm to support the knuckle, there's a sweet-spot that will let the top sway bar link bolt slide out with no resistance once the 16mm nut is removed. If you have the jack too high or too low, the bolt will be tough to get out. Same for reassembly...
- found it easier to remove the bottom 10mm nut for the ride height adjuster arm.

While doing this work, I also modified my fender liners for the aliexpress grates for clearance. Not sure how other say the PZeros don't rub when lowered, see pics showing it would have rubbed for sure.

Last item - 12mm spacers all around.

It's been about a week and they have settled a little over half way, assuming they will settle more over time. I included a comparison of my delivery day versus today.

[FRCFED8]

Wait so the top of the strut with the 18MM open socket is 52 ft lbs? The open sockets even hold up to that?

[aremmell]

Thanks for the write-up. What would be cool is to augment this thread by adding the additional information required to install HAS spring kits (i.e., swapping out spring perches, removing rear shock, etc.)–I am doing that currently, and can't find any information about torque specs for the rear shock (top nut, bolts that attach it to the frame) anywhere.

I should get them from my dealership tomorrow & I'll post here with the numbers for any future travelers down this annoying path.

[aremmell]

Originally Posted by FRCFED8

Wait so the top of the strut with the 18MM open socket is 52 ft lbs? The open sockets even hold up to that?

It's a special tool. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6NXYMT...roduct_details

[tdott]

Originally Posted by aremmell

Thanks for the write-up. What would be cool is to augment this thread by adding the additional information required to install HAS spring kits (i.e., swapping out spring perches, removing rear shock, etc.)–I am doing that currently, and can't find any information about torque specs for the rear shock (top nut, bolts that attach it to the frame) anywhere.

I should get them from my dealership tomorrow & I'll post here with the numbers for any future travelers down this annoying path.

I think the HAS install is different enough to require a separate write up. Since I haven't done one I dont have that information or pictures to do a DIY on it.

Sounds like something you or someone can take on and create one.

[monkeysrus]

Can you use the same procedure on the front springs with x-drive?

[aremmell]

Originally Posted by monkeysrus

Can you use the same procedure on the front springs with x-drive?

Not unless you remove the axle bolt which you will have to replace with a new one and it won't be cheap.

The way I did my xDrive was as follows:

- Loosen 4 bolts that secure the strut to the tower, but leave one of them a little tighter. This is just so you can move the strut around without having to support its weight.
- Remove the sway bar link that attaches to the strut, and the pinch bolts (they are holding the clamp onto the bottom of the strut). Be really careful with the wiring in here and take a lot of pictures before you take anything apart!
- Pull bracket that was attached to the clamp away as well as all the wiring. Get an Allen key (approximate size 7mm?) and you can use two of these to loosen up the clamp's grip on the bottom of the strut: place the short end into the top of the gap in the clamp where the pinch bolts were. One on top and one on bottom worked best. Torque the hell out of those to spread the clamp apart while a friend pulls the wheel hub/rotor down. If you do this just right the strut will be hanging from the tower now, and you just need to support the wheel hub with a jack or something so you don't damage the xDrive system.
- Loosen the 4 bolts completely now from the strut tower and have a friend hold the strut so it doesn't just fall out.

The rest of it is pretty much the same! Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions. I just did it last week so it's fresh in my mind.

[monkeysrus]

Thanks. Look like ill need a set of spring compressors!

[aremmell]

Originally Posted by monkeysrus

Thanks. Look like ill need a set of spring compressors!

Yeah, and a big ass torque wrench. You need to use up to 121 ft-lbs on the bolts on the rear lower control arm (camber bolt) depending on which end you decide to take off. I got a Husky one from Home Depot that does the job. You also definitely need the specialty tools listed in the instructions.

This is the spring compressor I got. It worked great, and was only mildly terrifying: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU

Also, I forgot: you need to buy some new hardware from your dealership's parts department, because many of the nuts and bolts you have to remove are torque-to-yield, non-reusable, and they will try to charge you $600+ to install them if you wait until after you bring it in for alignment (ask me how I know). Get torque specs for anything you're going to remove while you're at it!

I think a lot of these were covered in the instructions above, but just in case:

Front:

- Strut tower bolts x 8 (top assembly to strut tower/body): 28Nm + 180º
- Strut top nut x 2 (top assembly to piston): 71Nm

Rear:

- Lower control arm main bolt + nut x 2 (control arm to subframe): 100Nm + 90º
- Lower control arm shock bolt + nut x 2 (shock to control arm): 100Nm + 90º
- Shock top nut x 2 (top assembly to piston): 38Nm
- Shock housing bolts x 6 (into body): 28Nm

Don't need new ones of these, but I have the specs so I might as well just throw them up here:

Front:

- Strut pinch bolts: 56Nm
- Sway bar end link to strut: 56Nm

Rear:

- Lower control arm camber bolt: 165Nm

(1Nm = 0.74 ft-lbs)

[monkeysrus]

Thanks. Ive got torque wrench and all the other bits and pieces.

I am getting ahead of myself as my car is still on the boat! 2 years and counting lol.

[aremmell]

Originally Posted by monkeysrus

Thanks. Ive got torque wrench and all the other bits and pieces.

I am getting ahead of myself as my car is still on the boat! 2 years and counting lol.

I sat here and stared at the box containing my KW HAS spring kit on my living room floor for 2 months before I worked up the courage to do it (the adjustable kit is more involved because the spring perches get replaced). I don't think you're outside the realm of normal there!