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      12-06-2021, 09:06 PM   #45
Dave07997S
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Most manufacturers don't warranty clutches except usually in the first couple of thousand miles.
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      12-06-2021, 09:11 PM   #46
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@SickGTR you had a piggyback (jb4)? Did you take it off?

I'm wondering how you were able to tell. Did you have it hooked up to any BMW scanners or w/e they use at the dealer?

If it's on the car it'll show. It has to be removed. My apologies if I'm not understanding this correctly.
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      12-06-2021, 09:28 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speed_M2 View Post
@SickGTR you had a piggyback (jb4)? Did you take it off?

I'm wondering how you were able to tell. Did you have it hooked up to any BMW scanners or w/e they use at the dealer?

If it's on the car it'll show. It has to be removed. My apologies if I'm not understanding this correctly.
I saw all the data they pulled from the car. I did not take anything off. Jb was and still is on the car. Like everyone else on this forum, I am friends with the service manager. Lol. We do car meets and use to go chasing ass on the weekends. When the BMW N.A rep came to check it all out, they had tons of info on the car. My boy was telling shit he had never seen or heard of. I had never thought once about trying to take everything of my car to try to get it covered. That's why I always laugh when people think they can get away with just " going back to stock". It's to late chief!! I posted somewhere before. When I smoked my tranny in my GTR , they went into the black box/CPU and had tons of info also. How many launches, highest oil temp/tranny temp. Boost records/ torqu limits air/fuel. This was in 2012 ish I think. So if Nissan had the ability to do all that in 2012, one would think BMW would at least be at that level or higher. That was almost 10 years ago
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      12-06-2021, 09:33 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickGTR View Post
Uggggg. On RWD? Should have gone AWD. To each his own. Good luck bud
On Saturday I ordered a m3 competition xdrive
All packages accept buckets and 155 speed limiter removal
Brooklyn grey with fjord blue and orbit grey wheels, so manual m4 and xdrive m3, so each I will own lol
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      12-06-2021, 09:34 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM_vrt View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SickGTR View Post
Uggggg. On RWD? Should have gone AWD. To each his own. Good luck bud
On Saturday I ordered a m3 competition xdrive
All packages accept buckets and 155 speed limiter removal
Brooklyn grey with fjord blue and orbit grey wheels, so manual m4 and xdrive m3, so each I will own lol
Good idea!!!!
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      12-07-2021, 12:01 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indo Rider View Post
There's a million threads about turning and warranty, let's not make this one of them. Lets make this the first aftermarket clutch solution thread. K, thanks.
+1

Also very valuable to hear the amount of torque people are running and the mileage before having issues with slipping.

Thanks in advance!
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      12-11-2021, 12:42 AM   #51
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So I spoke to representatives of both South Bend clutch and X Clutches at PRI today. South Bend gave me a card and told me to call their engineers when I need a clutch, saying that they would gladly put new friction surfaces on the disk and upgrade the springs in the pressure plate as a ship and return service. X stated that their s55 clutch may work with a modified flywheel. I will give their engineers a call on Monday.

[EDIT] To add, doing no lift shifts with the CDV was more than likely causing excess heat, causing the slip. I don't disagree that you were close, but I do think that deleting the CDV may have prevented it. South Bend agreed.
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      12-11-2021, 01:12 PM   #52
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Does anyone know the part number for the clutch and flywheel for G80/82?
I found this video here stating that the F8X flywheel crankshaft flange was reinforced from 3 to 4 metal plates for G80/82

Last edited by mzcp; 12-11-2021 at 01:26 PM..
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      12-11-2021, 01:45 PM   #53
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for those curious about clutch coverage. The clutch and brakes are covered with purchase of BMW Ultimate Care maintenance. is a $700 upgrade for the first 3 years or 36k miles, and can be extended to as much as 7 years or 125k miles.

However, IF bmw will cover it with added power is a whole different story. I can assure you, BMW will check the data to see what happened. So it's a risk of being flagged for sure.
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      12-11-2021, 01:54 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by GrandMasterKhan View Post
for those curious about clutch coverage. The clutch and brakes are covered with purchase of BMW Ultimate Care maintenance. is a $700 upgrade for the first 3 years or 36k miles, and can be extended to as much as 7 years or 125k miles.

However, IF bmw will cover it with added power is a whole different story. I can assure you, BMW will check the data to see what happened. So it's a risk of being flagged for sure.
I guess if you are posting that your statement is a fact. I find it impossible that any manufacturer is going to cover brakes and clutch. You can kill those in a month or sooner!! Why don't they just cover tires to and pay for your gas? 700 dollars for that also seems ridiculous. Some one could drive the car off the lot, track jt 2 weeks later and need brakes and BMW is going to cover that? 😳
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      12-11-2021, 03:02 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickGTR View Post
I guess if you are posting that your statement is a fact. I find it impossible that any manufacturer is going to cover brakes and clutch. You can kill those in a month or sooner!! Why don't they just cover tires to and pay for your gas? 700 dollars for that also seems ridiculous. Some one could drive the car off the lot, track jt 2 weeks later and need brakes and BMW is going to cover that? ��
We have it here in the US market, and yes Ultimate Care+ will pay for brake pads, wipers and the clutch through 125,000 miles. $700 is for the first 36k miles or first 3 years. It can then be extended up to 7 years old, or 125k miles for more $$$$, price depends on the model.

Now if you have obvious signs of abuse it could get declined, but that would up to BMW discretion.

I cant speak for markets in other countries.
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      12-12-2021, 10:57 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moproblems View Post
So I spoke to representatives of both South Bend clutch and X Clutches at PRI today. South Bend gave me a card and told me to call their engineers when I need a clutch, saying that they would gladly put new friction surfaces on the disk and upgrade the springs in the pressure plate as a ship and return service. X stated that their s55 clutch may work with a modified flywheel. I will give their engineers a call on Monday.

[EDIT] To add, doing no lift shifts with the CDV was more than likely causing excess heat, causing the slip. I don't disagree that you were close, but I do think that deleting the CDV may have prevented it. South Bend agreed.
I also spoke to ACT on the last day of the show. It's on the docket BUT with supply chain issues things will take some time. The new Mod Twin is an amazing looking setup and I will probably try to wait until that comes out.

Also let's move on from getting your clutch warrantied and go to putting down power. Getting the dealership to warranty your clutch after beating the shit out of the car with an extra 100+ hp is a shitbird move. Pay to play.
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      12-13-2021, 04:26 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speed_M2 View Post
They're saying the driver disconnected the JB4 without disconnecting the battery and that caused a circuit or something electrical to malfunction.

The JB4 is a piggyback tune. I believe the racechip is as well. With these tunes, it's basically overriding the factory computer and lying to it to force it to push numbers and extra power that it wouldn't normally push otherwise. I could be butchering this explanation but this is how I understand it currently.

The point to my rambling is that with the piggyback tunes, you're not actually "reflashing" the computer of the car, you're overriding it. Since you're not reflashing it, it won't leave any imprints in the system. A reflash tune where you unlock the ECU like a BM3 tune or EcuTek, will leave an imprint.

As long as you disconnect it properly you should be fine. There's no way of tracing it. I'm sure people get bad issues with their cars, take the tune off, let the codes pop up immediately again and go straight to the dealer without putting 100-200 miles on it and they're clear.

I think you'd be fine.
Absolutely NOT fine. The systems in our cars track acceleration G forces, 0-60 times etc. If the car records times faster than the stock parameters then that run is flagged in the system. If you have multiple runs outside stock parameters, good luck. You cannot delete it and it has nothing to do with engine parameters. It is purely performance related. They did this specifically to track piggyback tunes.

So if you think that you can avoid warranty issues by running a piggyback, you can't. Warranty work related to engine or transmission stress will be declined as they should be.

Also, submitting a warranty claim on stressed part (clutch, transmission, con rods, crank, etc) for a tuned car is a complete jack @$$ move. If you can't afford to pay out of pocket when things go wrong, don't tune your car.
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      12-13-2021, 05:02 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speed_M2 View Post
They're saying the driver disconnected the JB4 without disconnecting the battery and that caused a circuit or something electrical to malfunction.

The JB4 is a piggyback tune. I believe the racechip is as well. With these tunes, it's basically overriding the factory computer and lying to it to force it to push numbers and extra power that it wouldn't normally push otherwise. I could be butchering this explanation but this is how I understand it currently.

The point to my rambling is that with the piggyback tunes, you're not actually "reflashing" the computer of the car, you're overriding it. Since you're not reflashing it, it won't leave any imprints in the system. A reflash tune where you unlock the ECU like a BM3 tune or EcuTek, will leave an imprint.

As long as you disconnect it properly you should be fine. There's no way of tracing it. I'm sure people get bad issues with their cars, take the tune off, let the codes pop up immediately again and go straight to the dealer without putting 100-200 miles on it and they're clear.

I think you'd be fine.
Absolutely NOT fine. The systems in our cars track acceleration G forces, 0-60 times etc. If the car records times faster than the stock parameters then that run is flagged in the system. If you have multiple runs outside stock parameters, good luck. You cannot delete it and it has nothing to do with engine parameters. It is purely performance related. They did this specifically to track piggyback tunes.

So if you think that you can avoid warranty issues by running a piggyback, you can't. Warranty work related to engine or transmission stress will be declined as they should be.

Also, submitting a warranty claim on stressed part (clutch, transmission, con rods, crank, etc) for a tuned car is a complete jack @$$ move. If you can't afford to pay out of pocket when things go wrong, don't tune your car.
I agree. As we covered earlier, engine parameters are always recorded when you dig into the system but on a face value you can't figure it out.

If I take a used car I bought to the dealer for an oil change, they can't see if it's tuned (from my understanding for a piggyback). If there's engine failure or something expensive and then they dig into the system further like you mentioned, then they'll know. In this case a buyer could be easily mislead and out of luck so it's a tough situation.

Personally, I wouldn't tune any car myself. It's not worth it but to each their own.
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      12-23-2021, 07:39 PM   #59
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So you tune your car to 600HP that you probably cant handle anyhow. Then you fry your clutch and want warranty coverage for it?

IF you can afford a 80-100K car. Afford to tune it to 600HP. Then you should be able to afford an aftermarket clutch that can hold that much power. Whats the most a clutch cost these days? 2K installed? I mean really?

Unreal.
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      12-23-2021, 08:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moproblems View Post
So I spoke to representatives of both South Bend clutch and X Clutches at PRI today. South Bend gave me a card and told me to call their engineers when I need a clutch, saying that they would gladly put new friction surfaces on the disk and upgrade the springs in the pressure plate as a ship and return service. X stated that their s55 clutch may work with a modified flywheel. I will give their engineers a call on Monday.

[EDIT] To add, doing no lift shifts with the CDV was more than likely causing excess heat, causing the slip. I don't disagree that you were close, but I do think that deleting the CDV may have prevented it. South Bend agreed.

Tbh I didn’t even know about the clutch delay thing I’m taking it out soon, and talking to a company tat will sell drop in upgraded clutches that use the stock dual mass and pressure plate, it’s
329 euro each clutch disc b4 shipping and vat+taxes
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      12-23-2021, 08:57 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGW0RM View Post
So you tune your car to 600HP that you probably cant handle anyhow. Then you fry your clutch and want warranty coverage for it?

IF you can afford a 80-100K car. Afford to tune it to 600HP. Then you should be able to afford an aftermarket clutch that can hold that much power. Whats the most a clutch cost these days? 2K installed? I mean really?

Unreal.
I can assure you I can handle the petty 600hp this car makes, and it’s not about not affording to buy a clutch, no one makes a replacement yet, if it was available my car would have upgraded twin disc and I would had made a post about how great my new clutch is
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      12-28-2021, 03:15 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM_vrt View Post
I knew it would be sooner or later the clutch would start slipping, car has 7300 miles and at least 5 k of those have been over 600whp, last night when I was messing with mdm mode the clutch started slipping @26 psi of boost, when it’s in map. 0,1 or two there’s no slippage

So anyone know a aftermarket clutch for these cars or I’m just gonna have to try and get it replaced under warranty some how
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM_vrt View Post
I knew it would be sooner or later the clutch would start slipping, car has 7300 miles and at least 5 k of those have been over 600whp, last night when I was messing with mdm mode the clutch started slipping @26 psi of boost, when it's in map. 0,1 or two there's no slippage

So anyone know a aftermarket clutch for these cars or I'm just gonna have to try and get it replaced under warranty some how
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      12-28-2021, 02:44 PM   #63
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We had a g80 MT for dyno tune here and the stock clutch was able to handle about 680lbft and 680whp (dynojet corrected)
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      12-28-2021, 03:54 PM   #64
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I would take it to the dealership and get it replaced.

We have done quite a few F30 B58 clutch upgrades from Spec and Clutchmasters and I am sure S58 is very similar to this.

I am working on something for our manual G80 so this wont be an issue when our DME is unlocked.
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      12-28-2021, 04:12 PM   #65
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Warranty claim on a prematurely worn clutch - that is not a defect - Highly unlikely.

Pretty sure clutches are maintenance items, the ultimate care website says it covers clutches (if you have ultimate care)
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      12-29-2021, 10:56 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickGTR View Post
I guess if you are posting that your statement is a fact. I find it impossible that any manufacturer is going to cover brakes and clutch. You can kill those in a month or sooner!! Why don't they just cover tires to and pay for your gas? 700 dollars for that also seems ridiculous. Some one could drive the car off the lot, track jt 2 weeks later and need brakes and BMW is going to cover that? 😳
You seem to post your opinion as fact quite often as well . If you have played this game before you know it is on a case by case basis and every SA, Tech, Dealer and Service Department is going to be different. I have tracked my cars, taken it in for service with the brakes squeaking and had them replaced twice. Getting things covered under warranty (especially wear and tear items) is definitely possible, but you shouldn't bet on it.
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