[DrRay81]

First things first. The car. It’s a 2024 M3 CS. I know most folks are wondering why I’d mess with the suspension when it’s already so good from the factory. Well a big part of that answer was aesthetics. The ride height is way too high and looks even more pronounced with the custom AR_Motorwerkz BBS LM-R’s I’m running(Ron over at AR is fantastic, wheels are beautiful but the customer service is amazing. anyone looking for high end wheels give him a shout.) But at the same time I didn’t want to hurt the cars handling if anything was looking for a significant improvement. The stock CS suspension is very good but is on the stiff side even in comfort mode. Mid corner bumps do upset it as well. I’d say it has too much compression dampening and not enough rebound dampening. The CS from the factory has the minus hubs that give an extra half degree of negative camber otherwise the front suspension is identical to a competition. Also there is no camber adjustment in the front. The rear has more changes as most of the links are spherical save for a few. Finally the CS runs the same toe specs as a Comp but does run more negative camber 2* front and 1.5* rear. The OEM comp specs are 1.3* front 1.5* rear. I’ve run Öhlins r&t and other cars and loved them so I made the jump. Öhlins road and track BMS-MW10S1, Öhlins edc cancellation kit and vorshlag camber plates. As to why I went with an EDC cancellation kit vs coding it out was two fold, one if you code it out during service or software update that coding could be rewritten and you'd throw a light and m1 and m2 won't be accessible, two the edc wire would have to covered from water and zip tied out of the way, just not a clean look. Big thank you to HP Autosport and SpeedandTechM below are some preliminary thoughts as I’m not aligned yet. I’m on 10 clicks all around. Ohlins recommends 10-20 for street. Prior to the coilovers, I did have the Millway front thrust arm bushings installed basically right when I got the car. A very minor subtle improvement but nonetheless something I'd recommend.

Some negatives: really just one and it’s a big one. The front does not go very low at all. If you’re looking for a slammed car or anything close to being lowish this isn’t the kit for you. Ohlins is unique in that the front uses a separate preload adjustment and separate shock length adjustment. Ohlins recommends 1mm of preload and the the shock length is used for front height adjustment. The issue arises when you try to go more than 20-25mm the adjustment knob will touch the cv boot. That’s really the only negative and keep in mind my vorshlag plates may have a slightly taller stack height than the stock top hats. Although I don’t believe that to be the case. That all being said I’m not really disappointed with the ride height as I do want to DRIVE this car and not just go to car meets. I would like it to go lower but I’m fine with the drop I got. I did reach out to Öhlins making sure there wasn’t an error with the part no’s but they verified everything and said I could go with a shorter spring and a helper spring but that seemed like too much effort for a very minor gripe that will not affect performance.

Positives: ohlins quality is fantastic. Always has been and no different here. it corners absolutely dead flat and the ride is fantastic. More supple and firm rather than the stock being a bit more harsh and abrupt. The ohlins is great dealing with a mid corner bump and the magic of the dfv is the compression is softer over large bumps and harder over small ones. On the stock suspension certain turns I’m familiar with that have a mid corner bump I pucker a little bit knowing I’ll have to correct the steering when the bump unsettles the suspension but with the ohlins I was expecting the suspension to become unsettled on that same turn but it just doesn’t and I can really get some pace without being nervous. Somehow they’ve managed to get everything dialed in with a single adjustment knob that deals with high speed and low speed compression and rebound. Won’t talk too much about high speed stability or turn in since the alignment will have a lot to do with that. I know people were complaining about the 190kg spring rates in the rear on the f80’s and the g80’s use the same 190kg spring. I can say that it’s perfectly fine on the g80 and is not at all overly stiff. If anything you could go stiffer imo. I think the 10 clicks for me is a touch soft and I’ll play around with maybe 7 front and 9 rear as I think the rear is close to perfect. Front could be a bit stiffer. I think the toe might be off as currently at high speed you really need to pay attention as it really could change directions instantly. I’ll most likely run a little toe in front and rear and maybe 2.5* in the front and 2 in the rear.

The vorshlag plates, really nothing to talk about here. They’re SILENT and do exactly what they’re supposed to do. High quality look great. They’ll come into play more during the alignment. as stock g80's have no camber adjustment in the front

This picture below is what the ohlins recommended settings look like. We ended up going as low as you can go in the front and raising the rear 16ish mm


Final heights, lots of guys would probably want a much lower ride height but again for me this was more about maintaining or improving the CS handling and the ride height/aesthetics was a distant second.

[Salespunk]

Something seriously wrong there. No way they are going to recommend running the car higher than stock with coilovers.

[imperfectluck]

Originally Posted by Salespunk

Something seriously wrong there. No way they are going to recommend running the car higher than stock with coilovers.

Agreed. The front is noticeably higher than what I would expect it to be. Might be worth looking into the shorter helper spring as the drop from it would certainly be noticeable in handling and not just aesthetic.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Salespunk

Something seriously wrong there. No way they are going to recommend running the car higher than stock with coilovers.

Only if you plan to go beyond the recommended lowering.

Preload can be removed or add a helper to lower the front further.

[superiaultra]

Seems off also… are you sure you got the AWD version?

[DrRay81]

i reached out to ohlins usa to verify the part no's on the outer box as well as the actual part no's of the struts, springs, and shocks. according ohlins all is correct, the first picture like i said is the recommended settings and is lower than stock, i didn't have a good stock photo showing the height, the rear definitely can go very low, it's just the front, but according to ohlins parts are correct

[DrRay81]

Here the best photo I could find with similar angles showing the stock height vs the lowest ohlins will go in the front.

[NicolasB]

Originally Posted by DrRay81

Well a big part of that answer was aesthetics. The ride height is way too high and looks even more pronounced with the custom AR_Motorwerkz BBS LM-R’s I’m running [...]

You say later on that ride height was secondary, but initially it seemed one of the reasons for lowering. I would be unhappy that it only dropped about 1/2” in the front, especially after all that expense and hassle.

[Needsdecaf]

That looks very high for aftermarket.

[DrRay81]

Not gonna lie and say that I didn’t wish I could go lower but it is what it is. I’ll see how much if any it settles and how it drives after the alignment. And if it still bothers me I’ll go with shorter springs and helper springs. Also just did a Google search and on some other BMW’s people have been having the same ride height issues. The f80 on ohlins however was able to go very low but then again the adjustment knob doesn’t have the clearance issue since it’s rwd.

[somer]

EAS did a G87 recently and it seems to be sitting a bit lower. M2 gap at the front is even worse than the G80, duno if this helps any since it's the RWD kit.

Thanks again for the writeup!

https://g87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2057795

[Boogie2121]

Needs to be removed and returned. This isn’t it, ohlins should def answer to what the issue is.

[DrRay81]

i think the only way i see this really being fixed is if ohlins makes a shorter strut body, a shorter spring would help the height for sure but the shorter spring may take the strut's stroke out of optimal range? not a suspension expert so not sure.

[DrRay81]

HP Autosport EAS can you guys look at these pictures and give me your thoughts, did i get the right parts, i reached out to harold@hp and brian@ohlins and they said everything was correct.

[NicolasB]

Originally Posted by DrRay81

HP Autosport EAS can you guys look at these pictures and give me your thoughts, did i get the right parts, i reached out to harold@hp and brian@ohlins and they said everything was correct.

Do they have a spec listed anywhere for this product showing what the height adjustment range is for the front and rear? Normally they will tell you that it can lower or raise a certain number of inches or millimeters.

[DrRay81]

The recommended settings are supposed to yield 20mm lower in the rear and 25mm in the front. The rear at recommended settings did drop the advertised 20mm. The front no where close

[michaelbuzby]

From looking at your pictures, they are not fully seated into the knuckles.
Here is my car.

Originally Posted by DrRay81

First things first. The car. It’s a 2024 M3 CS. I know most folks are wondering why I’d mess with the suspension when it’s already so good from the factory. Well a big part of that answer was aesthetics. The ride height is way too high and looks even more pronounced with the custom AR_Motorwerkz BBS LM-R’s I’m running(Ron over at AR is fantastic, wheels are beautiful but the customer service is amazing. anyone looking for high end wheels give him a shout.) But at the same time I didn’t want to hurt the cars handling if anything was looking for a significant improvement. The stock CS suspension is very good but is on the stiff side even in comfort mode. Mid corner bumps do upset it as well. I’d say it has too much compression dampening and not enough rebound dampening. The CS from the factory has the minus hubs that give an extra half degree of negative camber otherwise the front suspension is identical to a competition. Also there is no camber adjustment in the front. The rear has more changes as most of the links are spherical save for a few. Finally the CS runs the same toe specs as a Comp but does run more negative camber 2* front and 1.5* rear. The OEM comp specs are 1.3* front 1.5* rear. I’ve run Öhlins r&t and other cars and loved them so I made the jump. Öhlins road and track BMS-MW10S1, Öhlins edc cancellation kit and vorshlag camber plates. As to why I went with an EDC cancellation kit vs coding it out was two fold, one if you code it out during service or software update that coding could be rewritten and you'd throw a light and m1 and m2 won't be accessible, two the edc wire would have to covered from water and zip tied out of the way, just not a clean look. Big thank you to HP Autosport and SpeedandTechM below are some preliminary thoughts as I’m not aligned yet. I’m on 10 clicks all around. Ohlins recommends 10-20 for street. Prior to the coilovers, I did have the Millway front thrust arm bushings installed basically right when I got the car. A very minor subtle improvement but nonetheless something I'd recommend.

Some negatives: really just one and it’s a big one. The front does not go very low at all. If you’re looking for a slammed car or anything close to being lowish this isn’t the kit for you. Ohlins is unique in that the front uses a separate preload adjustment and separate shock length adjustment. Ohlins recommends 1mm of preload and the the shock length is used for front height adjustment. The issue arises when you try to go more than 20-25mm the adjustment knob will touch the cv boot. That’s really the only negative and keep in mind my vorshlag plates may have a slightly taller stack height than the stock top hats. Although I don’t believe that to be the case. That all being said I’m not really disappointed with the ride height as I do want to DRIVE this car and not just go to car meets. I would like it to go lower but I’m fine with the drop I got. I did reach out to Öhlins making sure there wasn’t an error with the part no’s but they verified everything and said I could go with a shorter spring and a helper spring but that seemed like too much effort for a very minor gripe that will not affect performance.

Positives: ohlins quality is fantastic. Always has been and no different here. it corners absolutely dead flat and the ride is fantastic. More supple and firm rather than the stock being a bit more harsh and abrupt. The ohlins is great dealing with a mid corner bump and the magic of the dfv is the compression is softer over large bumps and harder over small ones. On the stock suspension certain turns I’m familiar with that have a mid corner bump I pucker a little bit knowing I’ll have to correct the steering when the bump unsettles the suspension but with the ohlins I was expecting the suspension to become unsettled on that same turn but it just doesn’t and I can really get some pace without being nervous. Somehow they’ve managed to get everything dialed in with a single adjustment knob that deals with high speed and low speed compression and rebound. Won’t talk too much about high speed stability or turn in since the alignment will have a lot to do with that. I know people were complaining about the 190kg spring rates in the rear on the f80’s and the g80’s use the same 190kg spring. I can say that it’s perfectly fine on the g80 and is not at all overly stiff. If anything you could go stiffer imo. I think the 10 clicks for me is a touch soft and I’ll play around with maybe 7 front and 9 rear as I think the rear is close to perfect. Front could be a bit stiffer. I think the toe might be off as currently at high speed you really need to pay attention as it really could change directions instantly. I’ll most likely run a little toe in front and rear and maybe 2.5* in the front and 2 in the rear.

The vorshlag plates, really nothing to talk about here. They’re SILENT and do exactly what they’re supposed to do. High quality look great. They’ll come into play more during the alignment. as stock g80's have no camber adjustment in the front

This picture below is what the ohlins recommended settings look like. We ended up going as low as you can go in the front and raising the rear 16ish mm
Attachment 3309369

Final heights, lots of guys would probably want a much lower ride height but again for me this was more about maintaining or improving the CS handling and the ride height/aesthetics was a distant second.
Attachment 3309365

Attachment 3309366

Attachment 3309367

Attachment 3309368

[Luc@Speed&Tech]

Originally Posted by michaelbuzby

From looking at your pictures, they are not fully seated into the knuckles.
Here is my car.

They were fully seated when we installed it (see photo) but your height adjuster seems different than OPs. We’ve been discussing this with him and think that he might’ve been sent either incorrect or mislabeled parts.

[DrRay81]

They’re seated all the way. I just had the car up and checked everything. The reason I think the shock body’s are incorrect is because when you set the preload to ohlins spec the distance from upper spring seat to the lower adjustable perch should be 175mm and that is 1mm of preload. The top of the lower shock height adjustment to the bottom of the preload perch should be 132mm. There is no way to achieve that because the shock height collar can’t move up anymore. I’m at 152mm and the only way to get 132 per ohlins is to Lower the preload perch eliminating all the preload and thus out of ohlins spec and the spring just flops around at full droop by almost an inch

[somer]

Autocouture had some pics on their flickr also from a recent install, the spring seems to be a different part number, not sure if this of any help. Can't confirm if the Toronto Red G80 below the Ohlins pictures has the kit fitted or not, but it's sitting quite low.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/952318...h/53270277764/

O7 by Matthew P, on Flickr

[NicolasB]

michaelbuzby is talking about this part with the arrow in the photo. Strut should be touching the bottom stop point. Something isn't correct with the parts...

[AR_Motorwerkz]

Thanks for the mention DrRay81 ������