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      02-23-2024, 12:22 PM   #1
Skyscraper
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Match UP10 DSP Installation

So first off. Get the Alpha One Amp. It's the Match UP 10 DSP with all the work done for you. I learned that a little too late.

If you did what I did and went to your local audio shop, that you've been going to since the 90's, and ended up with the Match Amp. This will help you get it working. I have an appointment next Thursday to have Rod's audio tuners do the final tweaking. I'll share that file with anyone. Just PM me.

In addition to the Match UP10DSP Amplifier you will need:
I'm sharing this because I couldn't find any information and struggled to get the amp to work. You have to have a laptop and download the software and base file. Right now the BMW

DSP PC-Tool 5 Software https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/t...ool/downloads/

The Sound Setup that works is for a G20 https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...ase/soundIndex

If you see a G8X listed in the future use it.

You need to open the Amp and install the analog card and switch the input voltage.

Important: My first mistake in installing.
The harness instructions state:
Important note: Before the first start-up the Highlevel input inside the UP 10DSP amplifier has to be set to the High Voltage Range (jumper position: Input G - H 32V). For more information about setting the input sensitivity please refer to page 35 of the UP 10DSP manual.

However speaking to the Match Tech the analog card does not need the high voltage setting because it only runs the center channel.
So leave the switch and jumper alone in the Analog card.
To be clear; You still need to set the main board to high voltage

My second mistake was thinking that the F32 sound setup would work. It won't. Make sure to use the G20 or the one I post.

I mounted it in front of and above the Factory DSP. Fits perfect and just screws to the inner panel. The harness is so simple. No explanation needed.

Make sure the radio volume is all the way down when first activated or do what I did and use the remote on input to activate the amp before any thing else is connected.
Power the amp and then start the software. If the Amp is not on you will just get a demo mode. After that just load the sound file and you're ready to plug it in a play.

Once I have a custom sound file for our cars I will post it up.

The reason I wrote this is the instructions are not clear and it took me three days and two tech calls to get the analog card and correct sound file loaded.
I hope this saves someone the frustration I went through.
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Last edited by Skyscraper; 02-26-2024 at 12:59 PM..
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      02-23-2024, 01:24 PM   #2
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Is this the only modification you did to the sound system? What's your opinion before vs after?
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      02-23-2024, 01:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berzerker View Post
Is this the only modification you did to the sound system? What's your opinion before vs after?
I also switched the subs to Focal 2ohm.
It has more power and a fuller sound, but definitely needs fine tuning. The levels are off.
I’ll update after the pros finish with it.
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      02-24-2024, 04:26 PM   #4
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Great right up and interested in this, why is the analogue card needed?
Is it for the specific subs you added?
Wondered why this is needed as I don’t see it in other linked upgrades for the G8x cars like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234154241...mis&media=COPY

Any reason why the 4 series G22 sound setup file listed wouldn’t work instead of the 3 series?
Would suit the M4 better?
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      02-24-2024, 08:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo View Post
Great right up and interested in this, why is the analogue card needed?
Is it for the specific subs you added?
Wondered why this is needed as I don’t see it in other linked upgrades for the G8x cars like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234154241...mis&media=COPY

Any reason why the 4 series G22 sound setup file listed wouldn’t work instead of the 3 series?
Would suit the M4 better?
It runs the center channel in the dash. If you don’t install it you will be missing the center channel. The correct harness has the added plug for it too. You can see the blue wires running to the other side of the amp where the plug is.
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      02-24-2024, 08:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyscraper View Post
It runs the center channel in the dash. If you don’t install it you will be missing the center channel. The correct harness has the added plug for it too. You can see the blue wires running to the other side of the amp where the plug is.
The purpose of the analog-in card is to retain the OEM upmixing (Logic7) of the HK system - 9ch in/9ch out. The Match UP 10DSP can simulate a center channel without the analog in card (8ch in/9ch out), however that will not be the OEM upmixing.
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      02-25-2024, 12:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The purpose of the analog-in card is to retain the OEM upmixing (Logic7) of the HK system - 9ch in/9ch out. The Match UP 10DSP can simulate a center channel without the analog in card (8ch in/9ch out), however that will not be the OEM upmixing.
Ok, so the card isn’t necessary. But it would require someone experienced in tuning to program the amp without it.
I’m sure some of the younger guys understand this software. It’s a challenge for me as a novice.
It seems the amp can do a lot. You just need to know how to set it up.
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      02-26-2024, 07:57 AM   #8
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Skyscraper - I've spent a lot of time with Match UPs and other DSPs in my BMWs, and learned a bit from a tuning wizard.

Start with Speaker Timing. If timing is off, everything is off. Don't mess with levels or anything else before you set the timing for where your head is. We do not sit in the center of the soundstage, so timing comes first. Also, consider not using the center channel at all. 2-channel music with correct timing does not need a center channel.
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      02-26-2024, 09:00 AM   #9
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Thank You bri1042
That is exactly the type of information we need in this thread. I'm sure I'm not the only old guy that is new to the modern DSP amplifiers.
Trying to find information on how to get the Match to work was very frustrating. Once I went through it I realized it was fairly simple. But finding the "How To" was not.
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      02-26-2024, 09:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyscraper View Post
Thank You bri1042
That is exactly the type of information we need in this thread. I'm sure I'm not the only old guy that is new to the modern DSP amplifiers.
Trying to find information on how to get the Match to work was very frustrating. Once I went through it I realized it was fairly simple. But finding the "How To" was not.
I spent a couple of years over the course of multiple cars experimenting until I felt like I was somewhat competent with it. Not everyone needs to go that far, but it is a skill that takes some time (like most things). I used to have a site bookmarked that did a GREAT job of explaining what every little slice of the audio spectrum was responsible for and noted which instruments you'd hear in each range so that you could pinpoint the range that seemed off based on what was being played. Unfortunately that page is gone but that sort of reference can really help.

A pink noise WAV or MP3 file and a sound measuring app on your laptop can also be really helpful, but can throw you off if your microphone isn't very good (I do not have a good mic so that route was problematic).

BTW, I tried one of the "rebranded" versions with tunes set up by the vendor once where they locked out DSP changes. Their tunes all had the timing wrong for where my seat was and it was awful. I won't name the company, but their responses to the issues were, um, not useful. Someone taller or shorter than you could be happy with their locked-DSP purchase when you won't be. I also used a rebranded Match from a different company that wasn't locked and that was a good purchase.

Have fun with it, if you can, and take some time with it.
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      03-15-2024, 09:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyscraper View Post
You need to open the Amp and install the analog card and switch the input voltage.

Important: My first mistake in installing.
The harness instructions state:
Important note: Before the first start-up the Highlevel input inside the UP 10DSP amplifier has to be set to the High Voltage Range (jumper position: Input G - H 32V). For more information about setting the input sensitivity please refer to page 35 of the UP 10DSP manual.

However speaking to the Match Tech the analog card does not need the high voltage setting because it only runs the center channel.
So leave the switch and jumper alone in the Analog card.
To be clear; You still need to set the main board to high voltage
Thanks for posting this part. In the good old days, you had low level inputs (RCA cords like the line-out for an external sub), and high level inputs (speaker wires). So having a "high level" and a "high-er level" confused me.

The analog card has the phrase "if an OEM amplifier is used as signal source the Load Jumper has to be removed immediately and the Input Sensitivity switch must be set to the 30 V / 8 V position." The Match DSP sits between the two factory components (the booster and the RAM), which is why they tell you to use the high-er level inputs, correct?
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      03-17-2024, 12:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropikThunder View Post
Thanks for posting this part. In the good old days, you had low level inputs (RCA cords like the line-out for an external sub), and high level inputs (speaker wires). So having a "high level" and a "high-er level" confused me.

The analog card has the phrase "if an OEM amplifier is used as signal source the Load Jumper has to be removed immediately and the Input Sensitivity switch must be set to the 30 V / 8 V position." The Match DSP sits between the two factory components (the booster and the RAM), which is why they tell you to use the high-er level inputs, correct?
Correct. But I spoke to the factory USA tech. He said the center channel only isn’t high voltage and to leave it at low voltage.
The amp is working good in this configuration.
The sound is very bright. I need to spend some time adjusting
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      03-17-2024, 11:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyscraper View Post
Correct. But I spoke to the factory USA tech. He said the center channel only isn’t high voltage and to leave it at low voltage.
The amp is working good in this configuration.
The sound is very bright. I need to spend some time adjusting
The center channel has the same 25Wp of the other 6-channels of the RAM - RAM outputs are set to the default 4-16Vrms channels A-F inputs of the UP 10DSP (25Wp = 10Vp = 7Vrms).

The Booster outputs (~26Vp = ~90Wp) must be set to 8-32Vrms of channels G-H of the UP 10DSP (26Vp = ~20Vrms).

You can fine tune the input levels at the DSP PC-Tool Signal Management -> Input Gain -> Advance Gain Setup screen. This will solve any high volume issues with the OEM gongs, PDC and prompts.
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      03-19-2024, 01:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The center channel has the same 25Wp of the other 6-channels of the RAM - RAM outputs are set to the default 4-16Vrms channels A-F inputs of the UP 10DSP (25Wp = 10Vp = 7Vrms).

The Booster outputs (~26Vp = ~90Wp) must be set to 8-32Vrms of channels G-H of the UP 10DSP (26Vp = ~20Vrms).

You can fine tune the input levels at the DSP PC-Tool Signal Management -> Input Gain -> Advance Gain Setup screen. This will solve any high volume issues with the OEM gongs, PDC and prompts.
The amp is all-or-nothing though, right? You either put the single jumper on J1 (4-16V) or J2 (8-32V) for the whole system.

And I'm assuming the harness routes the outputs to the right channels in the 10DSP (25W to A-F and 90W to G-H), not like you can hook them up incorrectly.
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      03-19-2024, 02:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropikThunder View Post
The amp is all-or-nothing though, right? You either put the single jumper on J1 (4-16V) or J2 (8-32V) for the whole system.

And I'm assuming the harness routes the outputs to the right channels in the 10DSP (25W to A-F and 90W to G-H), not like you can hook them up incorrectly.
Channels A-F are set to 11Vrms inputs, not adjustable. Channels G-H input levels are adjustable. Only by using the BMW RAM/Booster harness then Channels G-H must be set to 32Vrms input level.

The MEC-Analog card has adjustable input level jumpers as well.

Last edited by Technic; 03-19-2024 at 02:30 PM..
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      03-19-2024, 02:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Channels A-F are set to 11Vrms inputs, not adjustable. Channels G-H input levels are adjustable. Only by using the BMW RAM/Booster harness then Channels G-H must be set to 32Vrms input level.

The MEC-Analog card has adjustable input level jumpers as well.
Does that remain on low level like Skyscraper was told? Or does it not really matter since you can adjust it in the DSP software.
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      03-19-2024, 03:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropikThunder View Post
Does that remain on low level like was told? Or does it not really matter since you can adjust it in the DSP software.
The center channel channel jumper must be set to 4-16Vrms as its max output is 7Vrms.
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      03-19-2024, 03:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Channels A-F are set to 11Vrms inputs, not adjustable. Channels G-H input levels are adjustable. Only by using the BMW RAM/Booster harness then Channels G-H must be set to 32Vrms input level.

The MEC-Analog card has adjustable input level jumpers as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The center channel channel jumper must be set to 4-16Vrms as its max output is 7Vrms.
Thanks for clarifying, I appreciate it.
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