[frankiebones]

Originally Posted by ///AVM

1. Confirmed exhaust valves closed (pic 1)
2. Disconnected actuator plug (pic 2)
3. Removed actuator by removing three 10 mm bolts (pic 2)
4. Manually turned valve lever into fully opened position (pic 3)
5. Confirmed exhaust valves fully open (pic 4)
6. Secured valve lever in place with led-based soldering wire* (pic 5)
7. Placed electric tape over male end of actuator plug and secured to chassis with zip tie (pic 6)

*I used led-based soldering wire because it is very pliable and easy to manipulate.

///AVM

I am going for my break in service and giving my technician this step by step guide...thanks!!! Could we get some video clips of the sound in this setup?

[FISH22]

You’re a rockstar, ///AVM! Thanks for the pictures and steps!

[vetteflier]

Since starting this thread, it's had a lot of interest, so wanted to give an update. I used a wire tie rather than paper clip on the left side. Easy to hook into a slot on the circumference of the diaphragm and tie off at a bolt hole. Much neater looking. Had done the same on the right side, but used steel wire. Both as tight as can be, not that it's likely the valves would 'slip' closed.
As to sound: at about 850-900 miles I started noticing a burble on the over-run. Have had the 1200 mile service--1100+ on the car now, and the burble and general loudness of the exhaust has increased noticeably. I don't attribute it to the break-in service, but the fact that all exhaust systems "season." With 800-1500 miles, they tend to get louder and deeper. I couldn't be more satisfied with the sound. Again, it will never match the 6.2 NA V8 in my Vette, but for a turbo 3 liter, it really sounds great. You can do a midpipe, cat or resonator delete, or even toss the muffler. That's all personal taste. For me, for zero cost, it's right where I hoped it would be.

[LuckyBrand]

Originally Posted by vetteflier

Since starting this thread, it's had a lot of interest, so wanted to give an update. I used a wire tie rather than paper clip on the left side. Easy to hook into a slot on the circumference of the diaphragm and tie off at a bolt hole. Much neater looking. Had done the same on the right side, but used steel wire. Both as tight as can be, not that it's likely the valves would 'slip' closed.
As to sound: at about 850-900 miles I started noticing a burble on the over-run. Have had the 1200 mile service--1100+ on the car now, and the burble and general loudness of the exhaust has increased noticeably. I don't attribute it to the break-in service, but the fact that all exhaust systems "season." With 800-1500 miles, they tend to get louder and deeper. I couldn't be more satisfied with the sound. Again, it will never match the 6.2 NA V8 in my Vette, but for a turbo 3 liter, it really sounds great. You can do a midpipe, cat or resonator delete, or even toss the muffler. That's all personal taste. For me, for zero cost, it's right where I hoped it would be.

Same for me as far as the sound has gotten better with more miles. It's the way it should have come from factory as far as the sound at a minimum and I'm glad I did it! Thanks for all the work everyone on this thread!

I did take mine in for it's 1200 mile service and they didn't say a thing to me about it. They probably didn't even notice but just a heads up for anyone worried about the dealer seeing it.

[Molina330]

Ok... my question is, when you open these flaps is it the same as when the m2 Is activated or does it sound loader than that?

[///AVM]

Originally Posted by Molina330

Ok... my question is, when you open these flaps is it the same as when the m2 Is activated or does it sound loader than that?

Opening the flaps doesn't increase decibels, it just provides you maximum decibels - per throttle input/RPM - all the time.

Even in Sport Plus, the valves seem to rarely be fully open. Please refer to prior posts for explanation.

///AVM

[acre22f90]

Went ahead and gave this a go today. Very easy, although it's a tight squeeze under the car if you don't have a jack.

After about 45 minutes of driving, I noticed a rattle.

I inspected the flaps, and both were still in the open position. However, when I went to adjust them, it almost felt as if they had more play in them than before? Guessing this is the rattle.

I have not hooked or put wire in place to hold the flap still, so going to try that next and see if it cures the rattle.

Car is a lot more throaty, especially under any type of acceleration between 3-4K.

[///AVM]

Originally Posted by ACremona22

. . . After about 45 minutes of driving, I noticed a rattle. . . I have not hooked or put wire in place to hold the flap still . . .

I believe LB experienced a similar rattle when he did not secure valves open . . . that went away when he did.

///AVM

[acre22f90]

Originally Posted by ///AVM

I believe LB experienced a similar rattle when he did not secure valves open . . . that went away when he did.

///AVM

When you say secure, you mean the paper clip trick? I'm assuming we just loop a wire or something pliable around the end that has a notch, and then tie it through the bolt hole below from both sides tightly.

Could you use a large zip tie?

I'll have to get under there again. A lot easier if you have a jack.

[///AVM]

You could use a zip tie, however, the valve control 'apparatus' is welded to the exhaust pipe and I'm not sure how hot it gets?

[acre22f90]

Originally Posted by vetteflier

Since starting this thread, it's had a lot of interest, so wanted to give an update. I used a wire tie rather than paper clip on the left side. Easy to hook into a slot on the circumference of the diaphragm and tie off at a bolt hole. Much neater looking. Had done the same on the right side, but used steel wire. Both as tight as can be, not that it's likely the valves would 'slip' closed.
As to sound: at about 850-900 miles I started noticing a burble on the over-run. Have had the 1200 mile service--1100+ on the car now, and the burble and general loudness of the exhaust has increased noticeably. I don't attribute it to the break-in service, but the fact that all exhaust systems "season." With 800-1500 miles, they tend to get louder and deeper. I couldn't be more satisfied with the sound. Again, it will never match the 6.2 NA V8 in my Vette, but for a turbo 3 liter, it really sounds great. You can do a midpipe, cat or resonator delete, or even toss the muffler. That's all personal taste. For me, for zero cost, it's right where I hoped it would be.

Is a wire tie a zip tie? I feel a zip tie would work well, if the area doesn't get too hot.

[acre22f90]

Upon further review, the rattle most certainly comes from slight movement in the flap wheel. I also noticed the wheel can compress or press in - I wasn't able to secure it well with the zip tie like I expected, so I'll try the wire tie.

Also, the 'exhaust' button definitely provides real burbles to the exhaust, and not just sound through the speakers.

[///AVM]

Originally Posted by ACremona22

Upon further review, the rattle most certainly comes from slight movement in the flap wheel. I also noticed the wheel can compress or press in - I wasn't able to secure it well with the zip tie like I expected, so I'll try the wire tie.

Also, the 'exhaust' button definitely provides real burbles to the exhaust, and not just sound through the speakers.

ACremona22

Per our PM exchange - in which I could not attach a pic - below is a pic of the lead-based wire I used. Purchased at Autozone, but I suspect there are other options toward purchase. I used this option because (1) it is metal (not plastic like a zip tie that could potentially melt); and (2) the lead component make it very pliable and easy with which to work, particularly with regard to 'twisting' that secures the valve in place.

Best

///AVM

Edit: with regard to your follow-up PM after I posted here, you will notice the valve turns and is 'stopped' against a metal bumper when it hits the fully open position; similarly when it reaches its fully closed position. If you loop it through properly in that fully open position it will be secured tightly (against the bumper) as you twist the wire.

[vetteflier]

A plastic wire tie works great--the circumference of the diaphragm has slots in it which are easy to put the wire tie through, and then secure it to the top right bolt hole. As I said, I used steel wire on the right side originally with this process and changed out the paperclip on the left with the wire tie--much neater looking. The paperclip was just an experiment when I first did this. Don't worry about heat from the exhaust on the wire tie. It won't get that hot where it is. And either secures it very tightly, so nothing to rattle. I like this process better than using the "lever" that turns the valves. But either works.

[acre22f90]

Originally Posted by vetteflier

A plastic wire tie works great--the circumference of the diaphragm has slots in it which are easy to put the wire tie through, and then secure it to the top right bolt hole. As I said, I used steel wire on the right side originally with this process and changed out the paperclip on the left with the wire tie--much neater looking. The paperclip was just an experiment when I first did this. Don't worry about heat from the exhaust on the wire tie. It won't get that hot where it is. And either secures it very tightly, so nothing to rattle. I like this process better than using the "lever" that turns the valves. But either works.

This is great input! I'm having a hard time identifying the easiest way to get leverage (don't have a jack), so I'll revisit and try towing it within the area we twist from to the top right bolt.

[acre22f90]

Just went and redid the setup. Zip tied the plugs up and re-taped them better. Also got a better angel to zip tie the flap open. Wasn't able to get it inside the twist spot, but found enough leverage around the module (didn't go through the bolt hole to make it nice and secure.

[Remonster]

Originally Posted by LuckyBrand

Another thing I found as I was test driving after the mod is the active sound button and if there was much difference in volume now that the button doesn't control the flaps anymore. The sound inside the car changed some as expected with more fake sound being pumped in with the button active. The exhaust by itself with no active being pumped in did okay but here is the interesting thing I found with the active sound button as I'm assuming nobody would have thought this. Not only does the button control the flaps for quiet mode, fake sound generation, but it also makes the burbles louder on the outside! I know a lot of people have talked of Bimmer Coding the active sound out but I did a test standing outside the car and I'm telling you it made a huge difference in the burbles with the active sound button activated vs turning active sound off. That seemed odd that would be all tied together as if you code active sound out will it still give you the burbles now? I would love to hear someone that has done the code could chime in on this.

On the F80s, there's a note in the Bootmod3 software that turning off the Active Sound functionality will (or may?) also cause the actual exhaust burbles outside of the car to stop working so there is definitely some interplay between the ECU deciding when the exhaust should burble and the Active Sound module also making the same sounds inside the car. They are linked together so the burbles match inside and outside.

[spacecowboy85]

I have Active sound coded off, and I still have the burbles, I was on track yesterday and every downshift was met with some burbling so tbh at this point I don’t know how coding asd off would stop the burbles? But then again just like the Valves I don’t know why asd is installed on these cars

[Der_Wolf]

Originally Posted by spacecowboy85

I have Active sound coded off, and I still have the burbles, I was on track yesterday and every downshift was met with some burbling so tbh at this point I don't know how coding asd off would stop the burbles? But then again just like the Valves I don't know why asd is installed on these cars

I had ASD coded off on my F80 and I am certain there were still burbles as well. Maybe there is less? That wouldn't make sense but Bootmod3 would know more about the ECU than I do

[acre22f90]

Originally Posted by Der_Wolf

I had ASD coded off on my F80 and I am certain there were still burbles as well. Maybe there is less? That wouldn't make sense but Bootmod3 would know more about the ECU than I do

Perhaps the code doesn't affect burbles and they are a separate thing within the ecu. I did some test in's in a garage, and can confirm it affected burbles dramatically when turning it off. So my guess, is the button is tied to the valve, the speaker sound and burbles.

[Der_Wolf]

Originally Posted by ACremona22

Perhaps the code doesn't affect burbles and they are a separate thing within the ecu. I did some test in's in a garage, and can confirm it affected burbles dramatically when turning it off. So my guess, is the button is tied to the valve, the speaker sound and burbles.

I can believe this. It's a shame the ASD button is so worthless. They should have swapped it out for the A/C button lol

[vetteflier]

Originally Posted by ACremona22

Just went and redid the setup. Zip tied the plugs up and re-taped them better. Also got a better angel to zip tie the flap open. Wasn't able to get it inside the twist spot, but found enough leverage around the module (didn't go through the bolt hole to make it nice and secure.

Glad it worked out for you. No question of the improvement in sound and a few more hp throughout the rev range. And you can't beat the cost!