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      03-27-2024, 06:43 AM   #1
RichardGM4
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Change drop in filters without removing strut brace

I've seen a couple of vids where the guy removes the front part of the G8x strut brace prior to removing the OEM air box covers, so that he can replace the drop in filters with aftermarket ones (as well as removing the charcoal filters)

Does anyone know if it's possible to access the air box sufficiently to change the filters (and remove the charcoal filters), without removing the strut brace?

Reason I ask is I'm trying to see if I can change them without removing it on my CS, as I don't currently have a torque wrench, so doing it without removing it will save me some hassle (or re-installing it without the correct torque)

Thanks
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      03-27-2024, 09:40 AM   #2
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It can be done. With the CSL brace in place, you’ll have even less wiggle room, but loosen the clamp on the hose and work the top of the air box out carefully. Biggest thing to pay close attention to is seating it properly after the fact.
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      03-27-2024, 11:58 AM   #3
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You can install them without removing the strut brace on the G80 & G82 as well. It's fiddly as Hell but it can be done. I did it a few days ago. Beats removing the brace.
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      03-27-2024, 01:27 PM   #4
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The brace on the G80 comps are easy to take off and put on. I can remove both in 2 min. Is it that difficult in the CSL?
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      03-27-2024, 01:48 PM   #5
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Did the install of filters and removal of the charcoal filters without removing the brace. There's just enough space to squeeze the original ones out and install the new ones.

Took about 15 minutes total.
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      03-27-2024, 01:52 PM   #6
SwankPeRFection
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markoz28 View Post
The brace on the G80 comps are easy to take off and put on. I can remove both in 2 min. Is it that difficult in the CSL?
He’s just being overly anal about torque specs and not having a torque wrench. That’s why he asked.
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      03-27-2024, 02:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection View Post
He’s just being overly anal about torque specs and not having a torque wrench. That’s why he asked.
Oh I got you. I would just torque them to (goodandtight). If I was tracking the car then I would spend the cash on a torque wrench to put to spec.

All the bolts are roughly 20ft lbs and the center is roughly 42ft lbs. So not very tight at all. Hand tight on all of them and then a bit of added muscle to the center bolt. No biggie
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      03-27-2024, 04:09 PM   #8
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Some people on here don’t believe in the old “how much power did it take to undo the bolt by hand tools?” and to basically use that same amount putting it back on. I think because people don’t use hand tools anymore, it’s become a lost art.
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      03-27-2024, 05:07 PM   #9
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The torque specs are a bit unique, as I learned through installing the CSL brace. Torque specs of 26nm plus another 120 degree turn.
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      03-28-2024, 05:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
The torque specs are a bit unique, as I learned through installing the CSL brace. Torque specs of 26nm plus another 120 degree turn.
Thanks Christian - is 26nm used on all the bolts on the CSL/CS brace?
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      03-28-2024, 07:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markoz28 View Post
The brace on the G80 comps are easy to take off and put on. I can remove both in 2 min. Is it that difficult in the CSL?
It's a little more fiddly since it mounts at more points and is all once piece so you have to take the whole thing out. Not a PITA by any means but still if you want to do it right you've got a bunch of bolts to torque. .
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      03-29-2024, 02:04 AM   #12
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Yeah that occurred to me - the whole strut brace will have to come off, not just the front “V”
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      03-29-2024, 07:27 AM   #13
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Just take the hose clamp off and wiggle the box tops off. Get in there and put your eyes on it… it’s not that much of a job.
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