[golf4kal]

Originally Posted by Dr. Dorito

I'm trying to decide where to have this installed. The instructions don't seem particularly complex, so I'm not sure how specialized the shop needs to be. I'm thinking about just asking my local mechanic / collision shop, maybe also for the front control arm bushings. I have no experience with mods previously - does this seem reasonable?

You get what you pay for - my $0.02. I’m going to bring mine to a shop that specializes in BMWs and pay the modest premium for peace of mind.

[AhsanU]

Originally Posted by Dr. Dorito

I'm trying to decide where to have this installed. The instructions don't seem particularly complex, so I'm not sure how specialized the shop needs to be. I'm thinking about just asking my local mechanic / collision shop, maybe also for the front control arm bushings. I have no experience with mods previously - does this seem reasonable?

If your bio is correct and you're in LI, then you have several options if you're willing to pay to get the work done. Two shops immediately pop into mind - Autocraft out in Uniondale, and MLife Autocare in Valley Stream. Autocraft will 110% take care of you as AJ is a master at his craft (he's currently building several G8X's with forged internals and I've personal experience with him), and Rick over at M Life is also a complete pro and can easily handle all work S58 related as he also has one of the fastest single turbo G80's out there.

[Tobstertx3]

Would love to see pics and a review once installed.

[meechy6ix0]

Just installed. Shoutout to Jake at Stryker Performance in Fullerton. Cool guy and awesome work.

On to the kit, shout to Ron. It’s just flat out awesome. I haven’t had an SSK before, but have played with a couple. The shifter feels like racking my AR now. Ron let’s you customize your shifter, and I asked for 20% reduction at a 20mm height increase. It’s crisp, notchy, but not too short. I wanted something that felt tactile and crisp but gave me time to enjoy the shift. Luckily, I think Ron’s awesome work and the chosen specs gave me exactly that.

In combination with the bucket seats, the mid pipe, the valve controller, the intake, and this kit, the car finally feels like what I envisioned my dream STOCK M4 would feel like growing up. Unfortunately, it took quite a bit of money to get here. Either way, I’m finally fully happy with the car.

Sound clip:

View post on imgur.com

[sbgolfer2221]

Originally Posted by meechy6ix0

Just installed. Shoutout to Jake at Stryker Performance in Fullerton. Cool guy and awesome work.

On to the kit, shout to Ron. It’s just flat out awesome. I haven’t had an SSK before, but have played with a couple. The shifter feels like racking my AR now. Ron let’s you customize your shifter, and I asked for 20% reduction at a 20mm height increase. It’s crisp, notchy, but not too short. I wanted something that felt tactile and crisp but gave me time to enjoy the shift. Luckily, I think Ron’s awesome work and the chosen specs gave me exactly that.

In combination with the bucket seats, the mid pipe, the valve controller, the intake, and this kit, the car finally feels like what I envisioned my dream STOCK M4 would feel like growing up. Unfortunately, it took quite a bit of money to get here. Either way, I’m finally fully happy with the car.

Sound clip:

View post on imgur.com

Was talking w Ron for a while then decided not to move forward. I guess I should though huh?

[forcefed]

Forget the ssk, this is the latest and greatest...

*click*

View post on imgur.com

[golf4kal]

Got my car back today from installation and CDV delete. To anyone that’s thinking about getting one of these from Ron, stop thinking and get an order in. My specs are 15% reduction base before a 3/8” height reduction. The effective reduction is around 18% which to me is long enough to enjoy the shifting motion, but short enough to feel like I can get through the gearbox as fast as I would like while maintaining the confidence that I’ll find each gate repeatedly. The 1-2 shift “stickiness” is gone which I found incredibly frustrating. Totally changed my connection with the car, couldn’t be happier.

[mattssi]

That's awesome. Would love to see some more reviews or install photos if someone dared...

[evidence]

Originally Posted by mattssi

That's awesome. Would love to see some more reviews or install photos if someone dared...

Just finished the install up. The process itself isn't too bad and there isn't anything overly technical. The AS instructions are actually pretty good, have pics of the clips, and still apply for our gen. Pop off shift knob, leather boot, center console, remove the foams and rubber boot. Underneath remove exhaust, the heat shield just behind the tranny, and drop the drive shaft (3 bolts).

The dogbone/selector rod has clips you can pop off on both ends, then the pins just slide out of the shifter and the dogbone coupler on the tranny side.

You can then remove the 'jesus' clips and pins holding the front of the carrier to the tranny, then the rear carrier bushing bolts. Push the drive shaft back and to the passenger side, and you can drop the whole carrier w the shifter in it down and out w a bit of swearing and varying angles. Then you need to remove the retaining clip around the selector housing coupler on the tranny, so you can pop the pin it's holding in place out. The coupler then comes off, and you'll use the new coupler and clip that came w the AS SSK.

With the carrier and shifter out, you can try to rotate the white plastic retainer counter clockwise from the top, or you can just stick 2 straight slots on either side in the gap in the aluminum housing and compress the white plastic. The shifter pops out the top. New shifter and bushings go in.

Like I said the process isn't overly technical, but unless you've done a beem shifter before, I'd plan for most of the day. The odd clips, weird angles, and learning about all the connections by feel made things pretty tedious. If you like DIY, you got this. Paying someone who has done it before and won't spend hours swearing at the car sounds a fine path to me lol. If you take it on..

• The drive shaft bolts are in a triangle pattern, so one is likely going to be an annoying angle up on the top side of the tunnel. If your rear wheels are hanging, release the parking brake and put it in neutral, spin the tires a bit to rotate the drive shaft. Impact will help break the bolts loose.
• Various length flat heads and pry bars w slight angles help for the jesus clips and retaining clips.
• When removing or reinserting the pin holding the coupler on, push the dogbone forward towards the tranny to relieve the pressure, there is foam in the coupler causing resistance. I used a short bolt to push the pin out from the top.
• Put the retaining clip on the selector rod coupler before putting the dogbone in place and putting the coupler on. Getting the retaining clip over the coupler while it's up there is a nightmare, easier to just push it forward on the housing and have it fall into the groove. Last pic is of the gold coupler, you can see the retaining clip around it, pin is under that.
• I couldn't find the drive shaft torque specs, just went w the standard for those bolts, which is 100nm.

For what most people care about though.. This thing is amaze. It makes the shifting much notchier and more solid feeling. I went with a 20% reduction, feels great. No concern about missing gates w the less lateral movement.

The loss of leverage is noticeable going into first, it takes a tad more force, since you normally are only moving it 'half' distance from N -> 1. All other shifts where you full swing it's not noticeable at all. The extra bump required for 1st isn't a thought next to how amazing the shifts feel now.

[evidence]

Forgot to mention, I asked Ron about the rear bushing upgrade some vendors sell. He said he would keep the OEM rear bushing, which allows the shifter/carrier to move with the transmission. This is most important for precise shifting. Replacing the rear bushing means the shifter might feel a bit more solid when wiggling it, but it will be more locked in with the body, and the transmission can 'move away' from the shifter under load.

He said the only time you'd want to replace the rear bushing is if you went w a hard transmission mount, limiting its movement from the body. Then you could do the rear carrier bushing also to tie all 3 shifter/body/transmission together in a solid way.

[mattssi]

Awesome - thanks for the review and information! Me wanty

[GT_Juls]

Anyone want to sell
me their shifter? 😂 thought I ask in case anyone is selling their car.

[Juniper1315]

where do i buy this