[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by TselaG80

hey All,

about to do service on car, with plugs and want to use the best oil possible.

car is Tunes, DPs, 90% of time pump gas, with E blend on occasion.

should i go with Motul 8100 5w-30 or 8100 X-Cess Gen 2 5w-40?

thanks in advance!

If you constantly drive the shit out of it and you’re in a hot climate/state, consider 5-40. Both are certified for this engine though, so you should be good.

[sdsd]

There is not so much difference between 5w30 and 5w40.
Using xcess gen2 5w40 all year on my b58 and s58.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by TselaG80

hey All,

about to do service on car, with plugs and want to use the best oil possible.

car is Tunes, DPs, 90% of time pump gas, with E blend on occasion.

should i go with Motul 8100 5w-30 or 8100 X-Cess Gen 2 5w-40?

thanks in advance!

Xcess 5w40 would be better since you run E blend once in a while. This 40 oil is slightly thinner than other 40s which provides less drag, and also a little more protection from the E blend thinning it out (over the 30 oil).

[yoandry]

So, Motul or OEM? Seem LM is cheaper, meaning is caca

[SwankPeRFection]

Not necessarily. LM is fine and I’ve used both Motul and LM, but Motul is a much better oil than LM overall. Listen, if you’re not going to keep the car a really long time and you’re changing oil regularly, then get whatever, but if you’re going to bang on it and see redline every time you take it out and want 200k miles out of it, spring for the better oil. In the end, it’s in how you drive and your oil intervals and how many miles you wanna put on it. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine. Respect that and it’ll be healthy.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Not necessarily. LM is fine and I’ve used both Motul and LM, but Motul is a much better oil than LM overall. Listen, if you’re not going to keep the car a really long time and you’re changing oil regularly, then get whatever, but if you’re going to bang on it and see redline every time you take it out and want 200k miles out of it, spring for the better oil. In the end, it’s in how you drive and your oil intervals and how many miles you wanna put on it. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine. Respect that and it’ll be healthy.

Yeah, I'm keeping the car long term and I dont necesary drive the hell of it to red line because of that. Here and there like normall entusuastic. Heck I haven't even done a LC on 8 months, mostly because can't find a time and a decent off trafic road near by tho. lol
But But, I have been doing the oil change at dealership every 5k and Im gonna start do it myself. Also planing on sending for unlock and run OTS stage2 93 and e50 maps. and at that point I will change to 0w-40 then.

[GolfCoyote]

I’m personally a big fan of Canola Oil. Superior protection and it smells like French fries after about 100 miles.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by GolfCoyote

I’m personally a big fan of Canola Oil. Superior protection and it smells like French fries after about 100 miles.

To bad it not LL01

[Hit_Apex]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Xcess 5w40 would be better since you run E blend once in a while. This 40 oil is slightly thinner than other 40s which provides less drag, and also a little more protection from the E blend thinning it out (over the 30 oil).

Agree, you also live in a warm climate so no cold start concerns. Motul Xcess 8100 5w40 is my choice for the s58 on E blend - Blackstone reports have been spot on.

[TopJimmy]

I’d even use it in cold climates (not deep-freeze cold like places that get <0F). 5W40 starts as 5 weight when cold, so no probs. Our oil expert says it’s more like a 5W35…in the middle of 30 and 40 but over the line, so it’s marked 40.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

5W40 starts as 5 weight when cold, so no probs.

This is a big misconception on how oil works. The two numbers refer to different things. The oil is still a 5W at 100C (which is a nonsense statement). The oil doesn't transform at some magic temperature number when it's exceed and transform back when it falls below that temperature. It's the same oil.

The "#W" part is determined by a test that measures cold cranking viscosity at cold temperatures. The test results are in the poise unit, specifically centipoises. The second part of the oil "weight" number is how quickly the oil flows at a high temperature. The test results are in the stokes unit, specifically centistokes. These units shouldn't mean anything to a normal person.

The cliff notes are the lower the number for the "winter" weight, the better it flows at very cold temperatures. The bigger the second number, the slower it flows at high temperatures. These numbers are also given in a range so you can have a 30 oil that is barely different than a 40 oil at high temperatures.

The standards state a #W30 oil is between 9.3 and 12.5 centistokes and a #W40 oil is between 12.5 and 16.3 centistokes. If oil A is 0W30 and 12.5 centistokes while oil B is 5W40 and 12.5 centistokes, which one protects better at higher temperatures? The answer is the Motul oil because Liqui Moly sucks.

Hope this sheds some light on why oil recommendations you read on forums for a specific brand are mostly bullshit.

[GrannyShiftG80]

So in conclusion is motul xcess gen 2 5w40 the best ?

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by GrannyShiftG80

So in conclusion is motul xcess gen 2 5w40 the best ?

Ask here https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

[Jltk]

Has anyone used MOTUL 8100 X-cleanEFE 5W30 on G8x?

It appears that it is LL04 approved, but hit LL01FE.

The only reason is that this is the only motul oil that is easy to access where I live.

Thanks in advance

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by Jltk

Has anyone used MOTUL 8100 X-cleanEFE 5W30 on G8x?

It appears that it is LL04 approved, but hit LL01FE.

The only reason is that this is the only motul oil that is easy to access where I live.

Thanks in advance

What country are you in. It’s possible that’s the reason your region easily stocks LL04 oils only…. Due to fuel types and regions. Stick with LL01 if you’re in the States.

[Jltk]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

What country are you in. It’s possible that’s the reason your region easily stocks LL04 oils only…. Due to fuel types and regions. Stick with LL01 if you’re in the States.

Thank you for your reply.

I live in Canada, and it appears the only LL-01-approved oil in their MOTUL Canadian store is 8100 x-cess gen 2, but they do not have 5w30, just 5w40.

So I was wondering about LL4 in 5w30 (8100 x-clean efe$ vs LL1 in 5W40 (8100 x-chess Gen 2).

[TopJimmy]

Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40 is good oil.

Here’s a good long read on S55 oil, which is equally appropriate for our S58. I see some smart logic developing on page 2.
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1764629

[Jltk]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40 is good oil.

Here’s a good long read on S55 oil, which is equally appropriate for our S58. I see some smart logic developing on page 2.
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1764629

Thank you for your input. That is an interesting read.

All Canadian M3s come with 3 year maintenance included by the dealer, so I plan on doing the oil change between dealer changes without resetting the intervals.

Seems like Motil 8100 x-cess gen 2 5w-40 is with oem filter is what I will use!

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by Jltk

Thank you for your input. That is an interesting read.

All Canadian M3s come with 3 year maintenance included by the dealer, so I plan on doing the oil change between dealer changes without resetting the intervals.

Seems like Motil 8100 x-cess gen 2 5w-40 is with oem filter is what I will use!

Honestly dude, you’d be better off just bringing your Motul oil to the dealer and having them use that during the scheduled oil changes along with a BMW filter. Seems wonky to be changing oil grades between the 5-40 Motul and the BMW 0-30 they use. I personally wouldn’t do it, but that’s just me. I’m a firm believer that a motor gets used to whatever oil you end up sticking with and it’s good idea to not vary that too much. I’ve always done this and have kept my cars well into the 100k+ miles on the engines with the last one being 200k+ and no issues. Pick something good and stay with it. Doing this back and forth shit that you’re thinking of doing for the sake of using the dealer oil/filters isn’t worth it in my opinion. Dealership shouldn’t have an issue using your oil if it’s got the right rating and the Motul 5-40 does. Others have done this without issue and the filter/labor was free. Once your 3 years are up, then you pay for the filter yourself and do the work yourself or still use the dealer for the work and pay for that if you don’t wanna get your hands dirty. But hey, it’s your car, you do you.

[TopJimmy]

Unless you go very hard on your car there’s nothing wrong with sticking to BMW TPT oil. That would avoid the mixing every oil change…