[silvermanor]

Originally Posted by vrships

How much slower were you in pz4 vs ps4s?

Hard to compare them in a scientific way. Temperatures and track conditions were different and I still constantly struggle with pressures on this car. But I generally felt a bit more confident with the PS4S which made me push the car more which maybe lead to them wearing faster. I also ran a slightly lower pressure on the PS4S than I ever did the PZ4.

PS4S for me were about 2-3 sec faster on a 55 second lap which is massive. The PZ4 wore completely even though even without camber plates and lasted me 4 days. Not sure if it was the higher pressures and thus the lack of confidence.

The PS4S on the other hand are heavily beveled on the middle threads and were rolling over with a ton of shoulder wear. Basically done in 2 days but even though the sidewalls are horrible the tire felt really good overall.

Again not sure if it was the lower pressures or maybe I am just getting more comfortable with the car and lapping but I can't continue to run them like that as they just melt. I would honestly just rather be 2 sec slower and run PZ4s with their stiffer sidewall and normal wear.

Long term play is to just get camber plates and RS4s.

[vrships]

Originally Posted by silvermanor

Hard to compare them in a scientific way. Temperatures and track conditions were different and I still constantly struggle with pressures on this car. But I generally felt a bit more confident with the PS4S which made me push the car more which maybe lead to them wearing faster. I also ran a slightly lower pressure on the PS4S than I ever did the PZ4.

PS4S for me were about 2-3 sec faster on a 55 second lap which is massive. The PZ4 wore completely even though even without camber plates and lasted me 4 days. Not sure if it was the higher pressures and thus the lack of confidence.

The PS4S on the other hand are heavily beveled on the middle threads and were rolling over with a ton of shoulder wear. Basically done in 2 days but even though the sidewalls are horrible the tire felt really good overall.

Again not sure if it was the lower pressures or maybe I am just getting more comfortable with the car and lapping but I can't continue to run them like that as they just melt. I would honestly just rather be 2 sec slower and run PZ4s with their stiffer sidewall and normal wear.

Long term play is to just get camber plates and RS4s.

2s sounds huge fore tires with the same tread wear. I beated up my PZ4 pretty heavily in a 2 day event and now looking at them, the shoulder indicator (small radial cuts ~ 1" long when new) are 1/3 or 1/4 left on the front. But some professional racers told me they are still in good conditions .

Good to hear that PZ4 does have some advantages over PS4S. The camber plates might make it more durable for 6 - 8 total days I hope.

[Boomer 2019]

If you are going to track your car on a semi regular to regular basis, the addition of camber plates or major front suspension surgery will make a major difference in the wear rate of your tires. This is true regardless of the brand or model of tire used. These cars desperately need more camber. The stock setting for the fronts and rears is about -2.0. This is fine for the rears, but the fronts need much more or they will have a very short lifespan (typically 2-3 days). The addition of camber can easily double this. Keep in mind that different tires will wear at different rates.

I am a lazy SOB so I run the same tires (MPS4s) and brake pads all the time. When the car was new with the stock camber I would use up the front tires in about 3 days with cording showing on the outside edges. After adding camber plates, and bringing the fronts up to -3.6 the cording is gone, and I am getting 7-8 days of perfect wear. A must have as far as I'm concerned.

[silvermanor]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

If you are going to track your car on a semi regular to regular basis, the addition of camber plates or major front suspension surgery will make a major difference in the wear rate of your tires. This is true regardless of the brand or model of tire used. These cars desperately need more camber. The stock setting for the fronts and rears is about -2.0. This is fine for the rears, but the fronts need much more or they will have a very short lifespan (typically 2-3 days). The addition of camber can easily double this. Keep in mind that different tires will wear at different rates.

I am a lazy SOB so I run the same tires (MPS4s) and brake pads all the time. When the car was new with the stock camber I would use up the front tires in about 3 days with cording showing on the outside edges. After adding camber plates, and bringing the fronts up to -3.6 the cording is gone, and I am getting 7-8 days of perfect wear. A must have as far as I'm concerned.

Definitely. My stock front camber is -1.4. No bueno.

[sdsd]

Did someone install any 4pt harness with sport seat?

[rafaeldelrey]

Just a heads up. I installed the Lvl2 handling kit from PhD Racing, made with SPL parts and it enabled us do to some pretty good tweaks to the camber, toe, and caster. Those made me go from 2:23 to 2:20 on Sebring, which is GT3 territory. The car, after the proper tire pressure settings felt amazing. I haven't gone with the coilovers, so the kit was not expensive.

I decided to give this kit a try after watching the video

and talking to Jackie at PhD Racing, who provided me with a very good path into improving car performance stage by stage.

[roku.g9]

Originally Posted by BrendanZ0402

CSG pads are legit! C1 front and CP rear. Was a 100+deg day at Buttonwillow, zero fade, barely any wear, great bite, balance and release characteristics. Less noisy on the street than the endless ME20 I previously ran. Highly recommend!!

Do you keep these on for street use? Dust still better than O3M pads?

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

Do you keep these on for street use? Dust still better than O3M pads?

I did kept them on and they were a little noisy but overall not too bad. Can’t comment on the dust situation since I barely ran the stock pads

[roku.g9]

Question for those experienced with this platform. I'm sitting at 2k miles on my 25 G80 m3xc. Just got back from a half day of private coaching at the Thermal south palm circuit, spent in a stock M4 Comp with carbon ceramics. Stock fluid.

I have about 20 track days under my belt, primarily in my previous F22 M240i. I'm looking to take out my G80 to Laguna next month and plan to run it bone stock.

Mainly, I'm looking to enjoy the car as is and form a baseline prior to making any mods. Also, I'm eager to burn through these OEM pads due to the horrid dust and change into some iSweep 1500 or 2000's.

Question for those who have or are enjoying the car on track stock. Should I expect to blow through the stock pads at Laguna across 5 sessions? Anyone notice brake fade on stock oem fluid? I know BMW had me in stock fluid when I drove at the Thermal track, but they also had me driving carbon ceramics which I don't have on my personal G80.

And lastly, anyone blow sound at 90DB with stock exhaust?

Before selling my last car, I was running 1:45s with zero brake fade, thanks to PFC 08 pads and Motul fluid. I was only able to attend 100DB+ days, due to my midpipe and downpipe I was running. From what I can see in this thread, I should be fine and should expect to swap pads after a full track day at laguna. I'm not worried about the tires at this point and understand camber plates are my next priority. But I'm not at a point where I'm tracking this platform enough to make that move.

Would appreciate any other tips for this platform as I prep to stretch it's legs bone stock!

[NYG]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

Question for those experienced with this platform. I'm sitting at 2k miles on my 25 G80 m3xc. Just got back from a half day of private coaching at the Thermal south palm circuit, spent in a stock M4 Comp with carbon ceramics. Stock fluid.

I have about 20 track days under my belt, primarily in my previous F22 M240i. I'm looking to take out my G80 to Laguna next month and plan to run it bone stock.

Mainly, I'm looking to enjoy the car as is and form a baseline prior to making any mods. Also, I'm eager to burn through these OEM pads due to the horrid dust and change into some iSweep 1500 or 2000's.

Question for those who have or are enjoying the car on track stock. Should I expect to blow through the stock pads at Laguna across 5 sessions? Anyone notice brake fade on stock oem fluid? I know BMW had me in stock fluid when I drove at the Thermal track, but they also had me driving carbon ceramics which I don't have on my personal G80.

And lastly, anyone blow sound at 90DB with stock exhaust?

Before selling my last car, I was running 1:45s with zero brake fade, thanks to PFC 08 pads and Motul fluid. I was only able to attend 100DB+ days, due to my midpipe and downpipe I was running. From what I can see in this thread, I should be fine and should expect to swap pads after a full track day at laguna. I'm not worried about the tires at this point and understand camber plates are my next priority. But I'm not at a point where I'm tracking this platform enough to make that move.

Would appreciate any other tips for this platform as I prep to stretch it's legs bone stock!

Here's my experience as someone who has a habit of abusing my brakes and boiling fluid in every single track car (SRF, Motul etc) that I've ever had.

I did 3 or 4 sessions on a ~2k mi 25' with stock pads and stock brake fluid. The ambient temps were around 65F. I purposely didn't threshold because I was on the stock pads but I was relatively hard on the brakes and the car is very heavy. They surprisingly performed really well and I still have a ton of pad left. I didn't experience any significant brake fade but it's harder to tell because of brake by wire so your foot doesn't quite feel it and braking distances were relatively similar throughout my sessions. This is also the first time in forever that I didn't boil the brake fluid.

I would think higher temps and a track like Laguna will probably punish your brakes a bit harder. Make sure your ducts are open. If you've got a lot of brake pad, I don't think you'll eat them up completely in 5 sessions but if you're threshold braking and driving it at the limit then you may eat them up. The car stops very well even if you're approaching threshold.

Sport setting across the board worked best for me. Unlike the F8x, where comfort was by far the best steering on track, the G8x works better on sport steering.

Brake earlier, get on power before most apexes (maybe not the cork screw). You'll realize you have way more grip than you think, it's actually kind of crazy how much grip this pig has.

Drivelogic S3 is actually really solid so it's worth trying before switching to the paddles to feel the car out. The ZF8 is nice but it's noticeably laggy with paddles if you're used to DCTs.

[roku.g9]

Wow, thanks for the detailed response! Great to hear you noticed an improvement moving into G80 platform. Thankfully Laguna will be very cool when I’m on track, probably a high of 65.

And definitely will adjust brake ducts. Plan for the 1st day is to run 7/10ths and just focus on car feel vs time. Laguna is my home track, so I’m comfortable moving around it. And with my recent coaching at the performance center, I’ve learned I’m often times “too aggressive” on initial brake application and release, so will continue to focus on that when on track.

[NYG]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

Wow, thanks for the detailed response! Great to hear you noticed an improvement moving into G80 platform. Thankfully Laguna will be very cool when I’m on track, probably a high of 65.

And definitely will adjust brake ducts. Plan for the 1st day is to run 7/10ths and just focus on car feel vs time. Laguna is my home track, so I’m comfortable moving around it. And with my recent coaching at the performance center, I’ve learned I’m often times “too aggressive” on initial brake application and release, so will continue to focus on that when on track.

The G8X is an improvement across the board on the F8x in every way even with the weight penalty. It's a little less wild, especially xDrive, and the torque delivery is smooth as butter. BMW definitely focused on precision with this car.

Try to identify visuals for braking points. Start early with moderate brake pedal application then make small adjustments with closer visual markers. Do the same with brake release. You'll want to get most of your braking done early and release enough so that you can still get a little front end grip entering corners. To be fair, the car didn't feel overly understeery to my surprise.

[roku.g9]

Originally Posted by NYG

The G8X is an improvement across the board on the F8x in every way even with the weight penalty. It's a little less wild, especially xDrive, and the torque delivery is smooth as butter. BMW definitely focused on precision with this car.

Try to identify visuals for braking points. Start early with moderate brake pedal application then make small adjustments with closer visual markers. Do the same with brake release. You'll want to get most of your braking done early and release enough so that you can still get a little front end grip entering corners. To be fair, the car didn't feel overly understeery to my surprise.

That was also a big surprise to me in both the m4 RWD, and m3 xdrive competition models I got a chance to drive over the past few months. I had the xdrive m3 on track at Sonoma last October and was BLOWN away by the grip. It was my first time at Sonoma, so granted I didn’t have a baseline to measure against and was not all that quick. But at thermal I was put in a m4 RWD comp, and was equally as impressed at just how much grip the RWD car has as well. Can’t wait to get more seat time in my car and play around with the settings!

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

Question for those experienced with this platform. I'm sitting at 2k miles on my 25 G80 m3xc. Just got back from a half day of private coaching at the Thermal south palm circuit, spent in a stock M4 Comp with carbon ceramics. Stock fluid.

I have about 20 track days under my belt, primarily in my previous F22 M240i. I'm looking to take out my G80 to Laguna next month and plan to run it bone stock.

Mainly, I'm looking to enjoy the car as is and form a baseline prior to making any mods. Also, I'm eager to burn through these OEM pads due to the horrid dust and change into some iSweep 1500 or 2000's.

Question for those who have or are enjoying the car on track stock. Should I expect to blow through the stock pads at Laguna across 5 sessions? Anyone notice brake fade on stock oem fluid? I know BMW had me in stock fluid when I drove at the Thermal track, but they also had me driving carbon ceramics which I don't have on my personal G80.

And lastly, anyone blow sound at 90DB with stock exhaust?

Before selling my last car, I was running 1:45s with zero brake fade, thanks to PFC 08 pads and Motul fluid. I was only able to attend 100DB+ days, due to my midpipe and downpipe I was running. From what I can see in this thread, I should be fine and should expect to swap pads after a full track day at laguna. I'm not worried about the tires at this point and understand camber plates are my next priority. But I'm not at a point where I'm tracking this platform enough to make that move.

Would appreciate any other tips for this platform as I prep to stretch it's legs bone stock!

Adding to what NYG said. I'm a little bit more pessimistic than NYG about the viability of stock pads at a track like Laguna for a full day. Turn 2, 5, and 11 will put a hurting on your brakes (especially 2 where you're going from 130mph to 40mph in a downhill braking zone). But if you take it a bit easier on the brakes like NYG suggests, then it might work out.

In three days (12 sessions) at Laguna I went through about 75% of my Pagid RSL29s, which are an endurance track pad. Also, at least the days that I was there, they don't do a cooldown lap! If you get the checkered between 6 and 7, you're exiting at turn 9. My brakes were smoking just about every time that I pulled into the garage if I got the checkered on the backside.

Also DO NOT TRACK the iSweeps! I did four sessions at Chuckwalla on a nearly new set of iSweep 2000s (thinking that they were a street/track pad - oh, how wrong I was) and they were down to the metal at the end of the day. A couple of my previous posts on the subject:

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=181
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=183

If you do decide to use the stock pads, be sure to inspect them from the leading edge. As you can see from the photos in the above post, at least with the iSweeps, the leading edge wore out faster than the trailing edge. This is a problem because when you look at your pads in the calipers looking down from the top, you're looking at the trailing edge. And from the top they might look just fine, but on the bottom, you'll be down to metal (as can be seen in the posts above).

[BackOnBlack]

Originally Posted by m4ml

In three days (12 sessions) at Laguna I went through about 75% of my Pagid RSL29s, which are an endurance track pad. Also, at least the days that I was there, they don't do a cooldown lap! If you get the checkered between 6 and 7, you're exiting at turn 9. My brakes were smoking just about every time that I pulled into the garage if I got the checkered on the backside.

The cooldown lap is so important on this car because of the weight distribution and the way that the brakes bias is towards to fronts. One time we got red flagged due to an accident in the middle of the session and I had to stop immediately on the side of the track, the smoke coming out of the front brakes filled the cabin to a level that I thought something was on fire.

Normally, at our tracks, they give us a 5-min. warning before the session ends, which is when I start the cooldown lap(s). My RSL29s lasted much longer because of this, I think.

[roku.g9]

Welp. First “incident” in my new g80 took place over the weekend. Ran over a curb for the first time ever in my life. Chipped the front and rear passenger wheels, damaging both tires.

So now I’m on the hunt for a new set of wheels, ideally track focused since I was likely going to get a 2nd set at some point.

Thankfully, no visible cracks or bends in the wheels. Front tire has been replaced already and no concerns when mounting. Rear will be replaced soon as a bit of the sidewalk is teared ever so slightly.

But for peace of mind and safety, I’m likely going to avoid running these damaged wheels on track.

What would you guys do? Replace tires and run these wheels? Or consider them a total loss for track use ?

I’m looking into a Apex VS-5RS set ro have alongside my 825m.

[roku.g9]

Originally Posted by BackOnBlack

The cooldown lap is so important on this car because of the weight distribution and the way that the brakes bias is towards to fronts. One time we got red flagged due to an accident in the middle of the session and I had to stop immediately on the side of the track, the smoke coming out of the front brakes filled the cabin to a level that I thought something was on fire.

Normally, at our tracks, they give us a 5-min. warning before the session ends, which is when I start the cooldown lap(s). My RSL29s lasted much longer because of this, I think.

No cooldown warning in Bay Area from my experience. But I usually keep an eye on the time and once I start inching towards the end of the session I’ll back off a bit for 1-2 cool down laps

[jmg]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

No cooldown warning in Bay Area from my experience. But I usually keep an eye on the time and once I start inching towards the end of the session I’ll back off a bit for 1-2 cool down laps

You get a white flag for the last lap at the most, and hopefully a checker flag at an early station to slow down for a cooldown lap.

[randomserious]

> And lastly, anyone blow sound at 90DB with stock exhaust?

i did a soundcheck both stock valve (in Sport) 85db, and 100% open (with SST Controller) 86db. this car is too quiet.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

Welp. First “incident” in my new g80 took place over the weekend. Ran over a curb for the first time ever in my life. Chipped the front and rear passenger wheels, damaging both tires.

So now I’m on the hunt for a new set of wheels, ideally track focused since I was likely going to get a 2nd set at some point.

Thankfully, no visible cracks or bends in the wheels. Front tire has been replaced already and no concerns when mounting. Rear will be replaced soon as a bit of the sidewalk is teared ever so slightly.

But for peace of mind and safety, I’m likely going to avoid running these damaged wheels on track.

What would you guys do? Replace tires and run these wheels? Or consider them a total loss for track use ?

I’m looking into a Apex VS-5RS set ro have alongside my 825m.

The wheels can be repaired no problem and unless there is damage at the bead mating surface are likely good for track duty as well.

I run the Apex VS-5RS at the track and I am very happy with them. They are significantly lighter than my 826ms.

[roku.g9]

Originally Posted by m4ml

The wheels can be repaired no problem and unless there is damage at the bead mating surface are likely good for track duty as well.

I run the Apex VS-5RS at the track and I am very happy with them. They are significantly lighter than my 826ms.

I’m getting the rear tire replaced tmrw with an alignment. If there’s not any red flags, I may run these and keep my eye out for a used 2nd set of wheels. Aesthetically , I know these can be resurfaced. I’m more concerns about the integrity of the wheel.

[silvermanor]

Originally Posted by roku.g9

I’m getting the rear tire replaced tmrw with an alignment. If there’s not any red flags, I may run these and keep my eye out for a used 2nd set of wheels. Aesthetically , I know these can be resurfaced. I’m more concerns about the integrity of the wheel.

It's a forged wheel. If there were integrity issues wouldn't know know?