[Maximus_]

Does anyone know of any aftermarket CCB pads? I am on my 3rd set in 17k miles and wonder if there are better pads that don't melt so fast.

Are there steel options to swap for rotors and pads?

[Berzerker]

You're on your 3rd set of CCB pads? At 17k miles?

As in, you have the Carbon Ceramic Brake package ($8k+) and you're on your 3rd set at less than 20k miles?

Are you tracking the car every day or something?

[Maximus_]

Yes, you got it right.

Not tracking it but regularly do canyon runs which is the same thing. I installed a Speed Engineering brake cooling kit yesterday. We'll see if it helps with pad life. I can see the wear markers on the rotors starting to disintegrate too. That's gonna be expensive. Might swap to steel if they go out.

Any advice on the steel options for the swap?

[Needsdecaf]

Holy shit. Street driving only? That's insane. Canyon runs same as track? Eh, not sure in that but maybe you're dropping anchor from some pretty felonious speeds repeatedly.

Are you opening the brake cooling ducts?

Again, DAMN.

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by Maximus_

Yes, you got it right.

Not tracking it but regularly do canyon runs which is the same thing. I installed a Speed Engineering brake cooling kit yesterday. We'll see if it helps with pad life. I can see the wear markers on the rotors starting to disintegrate too. That's gonna be expensive. Might swap to steel if they go out.

Any advice on the steel options for the swap?

That's pretty incredible, but yes, as Needsdecaf mentioned, there are vent covers that you need to remove to allow more cooling for the brakes/rotors. You should remove those temporarily when you're doing that kind of driving.

As for steel options, you're going to need weekly swaps at this rate lol.

[Needsdecaf]

Originally Posted by Maximus_

Yes, you got it right.

Not tracking it but regularly do canyon runs which is the same thing. I installed a Speed Engineering brake cooling kit yesterday. We'll see if it helps with pad life. I can see the wear markers on the rotors starting to disintegrate too. That's gonna be expensive. Might swap to steel if they go out.

Any advice on the steel options for the swap?

Surface Transforms are popular CCB upgrades for the P Car guys. I see they don't have anything specifcally listed for BMW, but maybe reach out and ask?

https://www.surfacetransforms.com/product-finder/

As for steel swaps, I'm not aware of any, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.

[chris3g]

the only difference between the CCB and steel calipers is that the mounting point of the front caliper is extended by 10mm to account for the 20mm larger diameter of the CCB rotor. the rear calipers are identical. You could definitely run oem steel rotors with your CCB calipers, you would just have 10mm less pad engagement on the rotor, which is around a 10% reduction. Not sure how much of a difference in performance that would cause in practice, but it's doable.

i've got a spare set of steel rotors and red calipers laying around also if you want to swap.

[Maximus_]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

Holy shit. Street driving only? That's insane. Canyon runs same as track? Eh, not sure in that but maybe you're dropping anchor from some pretty felonious speeds repeatedly.

Are you opening the brake cooling ducts?

Again, DAMN.

Originally Posted by Berzerker

That's pretty incredible, but yes, as Needsdecaf mentioned, there are vent covers that you need to remove to allow more cooling for the brakes/rotors. You should remove those temporarily when you're doing that kind of driving.

As for steel options, you're going to need weekly swaps at this rate lol.

We run hard in the canyons lol

I installed a brake cooling kit that feeds air through the hose coming from the bumper duct to the back plate in the center of the rotor. We'll see how long this set will last.

[beamlord]

Originally Posted by Maximus_

Does anyone know of any aftermarket CCB pads? I am on my 3rd set in 17k miles and wonder if there are better pads that don't melt so fast.

Are there steel options to swap for rotors and pads?

If this is really true and you managed to run through 3 sets of pads on CCBs, you have a much more serious issue than pad replacement.
Your CCB discs cannot be still within tolerance and probably started to oxidize.
Have them measured.

My first set of pads is barely closing in on half (not there yet) and I ran about 900km worth of Nürburgring on them. Hard. No canyon runs compare to that, unless one somehow deliberately destroys the brakes for no reason..

[GHMAVL]

Accoring to Girodisc, they are working on a steel disc CCB replacement as we speak. Hopefully coming to market very soon!

[Needsdecaf]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this first post. Hell, a buddy of mine has tracked his TAYCAN like 4 or 5 times at Lagna Seca and still is on his first set of PCCB's.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by chris3g

the only difference between the CCB and steel calipers is that the mounting point of the front caliper is extended by 10mm to account for the 20mm larger diameter of the CCB rotor. the rear calipers are identical. You could definitely run oem steel rotors with your CCB calipers, you would just have 10mm less pad engagement on the rotor, which is around a 10% reduction. Not sure how much of a difference in performance that would cause in practice, but it's doable.

i've got a spare set of steel rotors and red calipers laying around also if you want to swap.

Are you suggesting running 380 mm-dia rotors with a caliper located to work with a 400 mm-dia rotor? You don’t see any problems with doing this?

How can the rear be identical if the CCB rotor is 380 mm-dia and the iron rotor is 370 mm-dia? Calipers may be identical but that’s it. Another case where you’d put a 370 mm-dia rotor on a caliper positioned for a 380 mm-dia rotor?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this first post. Hell, a buddy of mine has tracked his TAYCAN like 4 or 5 times at Lagna Seca and still is on his first set of PCCB's.

Same here. Unless the canyon driving is on 10% grade roads all in the downhill direction with repeated stops from 100+ mph every 30 sec for 30 min continuously then the canyon driving is not close to a 3-3.5 mile long 15-20 turn race track with multiple high-speed braking events for 30 min long track sessions.

OP - CCB rotors under this type of repeated thermal abuse will have likely lost more than the 100 g of allowable internal rotor mass loss. These rotors need to be weighed immediately regardless of whether there’s a visible wear indicator remaining on the rotor surface.

OP - The f8x and g8x front 6p-fixed calipers appear to be identical (same piston sizes, same thickness pads) and the CCB rotor diameters and thicknesses are the same so I wonder if the brake pad profiles are also the same? If they are then the Pagid 4934 pad shape (f8x CCB front pad) in the RSC1 carbon ceramic pad compound would be the only other pad available for CCB front rotors besides the oem CCB pads.

[jritt@essex]

Many of our clients shelve their carbon ceramic system for when they are done with their car and sell it on the used market. In that manner they preserve their OEM brake components and don't need to drop a huge amount of coin to refresh them when it's time to sell the car.

They install our complete AP Racing by Essex Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit and run that during their ownership period. It's not cheap, but it is truly an investment. Once they're done with our kit, they sell it on the used market for about 65-70% of what they paid for it (even after several years of use and abuse). Then they reinstall their carbon ceramic setup which has been sitting on the garage shelf.

In that manner, they have a nice chunk of change coming back to them at the time they sell their car, rather than spending a bunch of money to refresh their carbon ceramic brakes (and then handing that money over to vehicle buyer). If you do the math, it makes a whole lot of sense when you look at over the complete ownership period.

Carbon ceramic brakes in their current state, both OEM and aftermarket, tend to be a money pit.

Here's our full menu for the G8x M2/3/4:
https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...pound%20Brakes

[TselaG80]

and here i am engine braking coming to a light lmaoo

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by TselaG80

and here i am engine braking coming to a light lmaoo

is your braking style to: prevent CCB squeal or extend CCB life? Supposedly you should get around 100k miles (on rotors, not sure about pad life because it’s best to replace them at ~50% wear or is that if used on track? I can’t remember which one it is) on the CCBs or are you shooting for 200k miles without changing rotors and pads? Replacement pads aren’t cheap for CCBs but they’re also not that expensive either when compared to 25 mm-thick race pads for AP Racing and Alcon calipers.