[mattssi]

Did you use the copper anti-seize as brake lube and put it on the backing plate as well as the pins, etc?

[snareman]

Any reports on how these work in cold weather? I heard they don't work well initially when they are cold below 40° until they warm up.

[cozye]

I’ve driven mine in 30F, didn’t notice any difference. I wasn’t tracking it though. Honestly, it takes like 3 good stops to warm up brakes

[snareman]

Originally Posted by cozye

I’ve driven mine in 30F, didn’t notice any difference. I wasn’t tracking it though. Honestly, it takes like 3 good stops to warm up brakes

Thanks. I hear the IS2000s are better in cold weather but do have a little bit more dust and I'm trying to go for no dust here.

[cozye]

Not sure what your goals are, but if you arent using winter tires, then I doubt the brake pads will be your limiting factor. Even if you are using winter tires, I suspect that by the time your car is warmed up, your brakes will be warmed up. I’m still using the summer tires, so I’ve been watching my TPS sensors on the dash for tire temp. Even in mid 30’s, the tires warm up to 70-80F pretty easily with normal driving. I’m not planning on taking this car to the track, so spirited driving on the street is my only requirement. The brakes feel great to me so far. The lack of dust is phenomenal. 200-300 miles easy before the wheels even begin to show enough dust to think about cleaning. My wheels are ceramic coated and are very easy to clean with just the normal soap I’m using in the foam cannon. When I looked into this, I saw the 1500’s where comparable to the OEM pads for friction coefficient over the same temp range, so thats good enough for me. The 2000’s will have more, but its not needed IMO.

[snareman]

Brake dust is the goal. I put all season tires on the car but probably wouldn't drive it in super cold weather anyway. I have the SUV for that. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to somehow be dangerous like I was driving in snow with summer tires but sounds like it's probably not bad overall fun stuff I'm reading.

[cozye]

The 1500’s are for you then. I’m confident you can trip the ABS sensor straight out of the drive. Nothing like what you are fearing. I’ve not read anything about sub par cold stopping anyway. I’m sure you’ve seen the chart, if you look they actually have more stopping power than OEM at ambient temp. FWIW, i bought mine from r33_RGSport. Fast shipping.

https://www.rgsportshop.com/index.ph...roduct_id=2288

Just noticed that on that page it says under the 1500

“ - Tested in extreme winter conditions with effective stable results.”

[TopJimmy]

My ISweep 2000s stopped great this winter and worst days were 15F. Braking is Instant and silent. I chose the street/track compound because I want the extra bite to brake after rolls. Dust is minor now…completely livable. Based on my experience the 1500s should grip in winter just like stock pads do, but also silent and with minimal dust.

When installing I used a good bit of copper lube on the pads and calipers where they slide, on the spring clips fingers where they touch pads, and I “painted” both the fixed side of the caliper and the piston to prevent any clunks. My iSweeps came with small tubes of copper lube that was thick and sticky. For the last 4K miles they’ve been perfect, even when switching from forward to reverse.

[snareman]

Originally Posted by cozye

The 1500’s are for you then. I’m confident you can trip the ABS sensor straight out of the drive. Nothing like what you are fearing. I’ve not read anything about sub par cold stopping anyway. I’m sure you’ve seen the chart, if you look they actually have more stopping power than OEM at ambient temp. FWIW, i bought mine from r33_RGSport. Fast shipping.

https://www.rgsportshop.com/index.ph...roduct_id=2288

Just noticed that on that page it says under the 1500

“ - Tested in extreme winter conditions with effective stable results.”

Thanks and yup, that's where I'm buying them. I saw that thing about the extreme temperatures. That seems to be on all the sites selling them so I assume that is something from ISweep.

[31shifter]

Update from me, I have 14,000 miles on my car, probably 13,000 miles on the Sweep 1500 pads. They show minimal wear, 100% quiet - not a squeak, not a squeal, no vibration and most of all the dust improvement has to be 10X over the stock pads. With my Cerium color Edelweiss wheels, you really can’t even see the dust - it matches the color of the wheels.

However, I would probably try the 2000 next time. My car stops fine - as good or slightly better than the OEM pads, but I would like a little bit more bite given the car so much power.

Seems like the 2000 puts out a little bit more dust, but my car needs washing before the wheels need cleaning with the 1500’s anyway.

Joe

[maelfyn]

Damn, I have to get the 1500s. The break dust and the squealing are my only complaints about the G80.

[SwankPeRFection]

FYI from my perspective, I can’t speak for the 1500, but the 2000 will put out a darker graphite dust and while it’s not as bad as other pads, it does show up on silver wheels. That said, it rinses right off with water. It’s nowhere near as bad as other pads. If it bugs you that much, spray the wheels down with water and you’re good.

[White340XDriveInCt]

Originally Posted by 31shifter

Update from me, I have 14,000 miles on my car, probably 13,000 miles on the Sweep 1500 pads. They show minimal wear, 100% quiet - not a squeak, not a squeal, no vibration and most of all the dust improvement has to be 10X over the stock pads. With my Cerium color Edelweiss wheels, you really can’t even see the dust - it matches the color of the wheels.

However, I would probably try the 2000 next time. My car stops fine - as good or slightly better than the OEM pads, but I would like a little bit more bite given the car so much power.

Seems like the 2000 puts out a little bit more dust, but my car needs washing before the wheels need cleaning with the 1500’s anyway.

Joe

(Sorry if I missed this earlier in the post) Did you use a tuner shop or do this install yourself? I just received my 1500's and was going to have a well respected tuner do them but they have little experience installing them (vs. EBC, etc) and I'd heard about some slight fitment variations and/or a "clunking" sound post-instal...any issues?

Thanks!

[cozye]

I’m not sure about others experience, but I have not had any clunking or issues with my 1500 pads. I would be alarmed if my brakes were clunking.. LOL. FWIW, dealer installed my pads on delivery of the car. Extremely pleased with them and the very minimal dust. About 2000 miles so far

[DoubleDave]

Originally Posted by White340XDriveInCt

(Sorry if I missed this earlier in the post) Did you use a tuner shop or do this install yourself? I just received my 1500's and was going to have a well respected tuner do them but they have little experience installing them (vs. EBC, etc) and I'd heard about some slight fitment variations and/or a "clunking" sound post-instal...any issues?

Thanks!

I have the 1500s and installed them myself. No fitment issues or clunking sounds. They are an easy direct swap from the stock pads. If your shop has ever installed brake pads, they can do these.

[White340XDriveInCt]

Originally Posted by DoubleDave

I have the 1500s and installed them myself. No fitment issues or clunking sounds. They are an easy direct swap from the stock pads. If your shop has ever installed brake pads, they can do these.

Precisely what I was hoping to hear...thanks!

[kgelfen360]

Does someone know torque specs for the caliper bolts for front and rear. Have the iSweeps 1500 sitting the box. Planning to do myself.

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by kgelfen360

Does someone know torque specs for the caliper bolts for front and rear. Have the iSweeps 1500 sitting the box. Planning to do myself.

The front is a nut onto a stud, 95NM. The rear caliper bolt on to the caliper anchor plate is 35NM. The anchor plate bolts are 130NM but you don't need to take those off to change the pads.

[kgelfen360]

Originally Posted by chris3g

The front is a nut onto a stud, 95NM. The rear caliper bolt on to the caliper anchor plate is 35NM. The anchor plate bolts are 130NM but you don't need to take those off to change the pads.

Thank you. Another question. Any recommendations on tool to use to compress front caliper pistons. I’ve never done on big brakes like these.
Thanks guys!

[SwankPeRFection]

Your fingers against the existing pad. Or with the caliper still on, use one of the larger plastic pry tools from like an interior pry tool set and posh against the brake pad (from between the rotor and pad). I wouldn’t do this with carbon rotors, but it’s fine with steel and won’t damage anything since it’s plastic pry tool. Loosen your brake fluid cap when you do this.

[31shifter]

Originally Posted by White340XDriveInCt

(Sorry if I missed this earlier in the post) Did you use a tuner shop or do this install yourself? I just received my 1500's and was going to have a well respected tuner do them but they have little experience installing them (vs. EBC, etc) and I'd heard about some slight fitment variations and/or a "clunking" sound post-instal...any issues?

Thanks!

I did it myself, no issues. I done several brake pad/rotor replacements on other cars, this wasn’t much different.

[mattssi]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Your fingers against the existing pad. Or with the caliper still on, use one of the larger plastic pry tools from like an interior pry tool set and posh against the brake pad (from between the rotor and pad). I wouldn’t do this with carbon rotors, but it’s fine with steel and won’t damage anything since it’s plastic pry tool. Loosen your brake fluid cap when you do this.

Thanks!
I'm embarrassed that I didn't loosen the fluid cap.