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      09-30-2023, 08:41 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcherdak View Post
so skip the dc converter. and wire the usb multiport directly to the fuse tap? Thank you!
yes
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      10-10-2023, 03:23 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris3g View Post
Just using the little Magbak strip stuck onto the vent trim for the cleanest look. Also have a dedicated device running JBV1 w/waze crowdsourced data and a digital key to start the car that stays permanently in the little cubby area below.
chris3g

Forgive my ignorance as I do not have my car yet...

In this picture, I'm assuming that the phone is not actually charging, correct? How hard is it to look down to see the JBV1 data?

In my past cars I have used the old V1 remote display on the dash and looking for setups for new detectors as I'm slowly embracing the whole "running an app" thing.
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      10-10-2023, 03:35 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
chris3g

Forgive my ignorance as I do not have my car yet...

In this picture, I'm assuming that the phone is not actually charging, correct? How hard is it to look down to see the JBV1 data?

In my past cars I have used the old V1 remote display on the dash and looking for setups for new detectors as I'm slowly embracing the whole "running an app" thing.

it is charging, but wired, you can see the connector on the right side. This position is close enough to use the digital key but too far to charge wirelessly.

I find this to be good for JBV1, which for the most part is used without any interaction and with audio alerts. It is completely doable to use JBV1 without being able to see it at all, but having it available for an occasional quick glance is nice. Since this device is also doubling as the digital key to start the car, it needs to be down there in order to work for that function.

When i get into the car the device display comes on automatically, i do a fingerprint authentication which then enables the digital key to start the car, and a few seconds later JBV1 auto-starts, connects to the V1 and displays the map. When exiting the car, after a few minutes the V1 powers down, JBV1 auto quits and locks the device, preventing the car from being started should someone break in. I use my apple watch to lock and unlock the door, and i never carry the physical key. The whole thing is completely seamless.

Just to be clear this is a dedicated device i use for this purpose, it stays in that spot basically permanently unless i pop it out for updates or some other reason. It would be annoying to be constantly taking your primary phone in and out of there in the way i have it.
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      10-10-2023, 03:54 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris3g View Post
it is charging, but wired, you can see the connector on the right side. This position is close enough to use the digital key but too far to charge wirelessly.

I find this to be good for JBV1, which for the most part is used without any interaction and with audio alerts. It is completely doable to use JBV1 without being able to see it at all, but having it available for an occasional quick glance is nice. Since this device is also doubling as the digital key to start the car, it needs to be down there in order to work for that function.

When i get into the car the device display comes on automatically, i do a fingerprint authentication which then enables the digital key to start the car, and a few seconds later JBV1 auto-starts, connects to the V1 and displays the map. When exiting the car, after a few minutes the V1 powers down, JBV1 auto quits and locks the device, preventing the car from being started should someone break in. I use my apple watch to lock and unlock the door, and i never carry the physical key. The whole thing is completely seamless.

Just to be clear this is a dedicated device i use for this purpose, it stays in that spot basically permanently unless i pop it out for updates or some other reason. It would be annoying to be constantly taking your primary phone in and out of there in the way i have it.
Thanks! What phone is it, and how do you have it mounted there so it doesn't rattle? Just wedged in?
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      10-10-2023, 04:37 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
Thanks! What phone is it, and how do you have it mounted there so it doesn't rattle? Just wedged in?
It’s a pixel 6a. It’s mounted with a strip of 3m dual lock along the top edge , it doesn’t move or rattle at all.
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      12-18-2023, 08:02 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docjavier View Post
I use the Rennline.
docjavier Does that panel just pull out like the Rennline video shows for the pre-iDrive 8? Where they show the shortcut button panel simply pulling out?
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      12-18-2023, 10:10 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
docjavier Does that panel just pull out like the Rennline video shows for the pre-iDrive 8? Where they show the shortcut button panel simply pulling out?
Mine is a 23 with iDrave 8. It just pop out with plastic tool being careful.
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      12-20-2023, 01:17 PM   #162
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I decided on this one since ProClip claims the one they have won’t work with the ‘24’s. I don’t like vent mounts but I don’t want anything stuck to my interior either so I went the vent mount for now…

https://a.co/d/9ptzDSy
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      12-20-2023, 01:49 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike02z View Post
I decided on this one since ProClip claims the one they have won’t work with the ‘24’s. I don’t like vent mounts but I don’t want anything stuck to my interior either so I went the vent mount for now…

https://a.co/d/9ptzDSy
There should be no reason the one listed as "working" for the '23 M3 shouldn't work for any other iDrive 8 based G8x.

https://www.proclipusa.com/products/...ter-dash-mount

The interiors in that section are identical. They probably just haven't updated their website to include it.
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      12-28-2023, 10:20 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berzerker View Post
There should be no reason the one listed as "working" for the '23 M3 shouldn't work for any other iDrive 8 based G8x.

https://www.proclipusa.com/products/...ter-dash-mount

The interiors in that section are identical. They probably just haven't updated their website to include it.
Yup, you were right. Picked up the ProClip and it works fine in my ‘24. I just need to hide the wire.
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      12-31-2023, 05:47 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BzsBimmer View Post
Finally got everything buttoned up
Now all the wires are virtually hidden sans the small lead poking out of the trim and up to the Magbak mount.

And if I need to add more charging cables, I can still use the 12V plug, the USB connector, or the USB-C in the center armrest
What panel did you remove to hide the cable. Is it the trim around the air vents? Plan to hide my wire in the same way. I just neee to confirm the panel trim that needs to be removed. Any assistance would be appreciated
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      12-31-2023, 06:37 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element56 View Post
I did not use the dc to dc converter in either of my installs. (‘22 G82 / ‘23 G01)

other than that looks good.
element56 which fuse did you use? And which size is it? Thanks!
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      12-31-2023, 06:57 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike02z View Post
What panel did you remove to hide the cable. Is it the trim around the air vents? Plan to hide my wire in the same way. I just neee to confirm the panel trim that needs to be removed. Any assistance would be appreciated
I figured this out. The whole panel with the hazard light gets removed. Pretty easy one you find the clips. Pictures below….
Attached Images
  
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      12-31-2023, 10:20 PM   #168
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That looks like the wire I have in my Amazon cart.

Does anyone have tips / directions about how to remove the side panel with the knee bolster?
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      01-01-2024, 01:51 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike02z View Post
I figured this out. The whole panel with the hazard light gets removed. Pretty easy one you find the clips. Pictures below….
Sorry brother.
No, I did not remove any trim panels. Just loosened them enough to fish the wire through.
Glad you figured it out though. I’ve found this to be the cleanest method without fishing a cable from the rear console and also leaving the original charge port free.
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      01-01-2024, 02:02 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
That looks like the wire I have in my Amazon cart.

Does anyone have tips / directions about how to remove the side panel with the knee bolster?
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      01-01-2024, 11:31 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike02z View Post
I figured this out. The whole panel with the hazard light gets removed. Pretty easy one you find the clips. Pictures below….
Where did you run it after that?
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      01-01-2024, 11:58 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf View Post
Where did you run it after that?
Behind that panel then out the bottom. I then tucked it in between panels and then pushed under the console. The wires comes in at the back of the console then goes into the cubby and plugs into the USB-C port. I do intend to take the console apart and likely put a small hole in the bottom of the bin and run the wire up there. My MagBak charger will be here this week so hopefully it will look as good as geko29 install (attached). My interior is black. I added a couple pictures of where I routed the wire but did not take pictures while doing it.
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      01-02-2024, 08:03 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike02z View Post
Behind that panel then out the bottom. I then tucked it in between panels and then pushed under the console. The wires comes in at the back of the console then goes into the cubby and plugs into the USB-C port. I do intend to take the console apart and likely put a small hole in the bottom of the bin and run the wire up there. My MagBak charger will be here this week so hopefully it will look as good as geko29 install (attached). My interior is black. I added a couple pictures of where I routed the wire but did not take pictures while doing it.
Thanks!

When you say "behind that panel then out the bottom", I'm still a little confused. Sorry! Out the bottom of where? I THINK judging by your pictures you took a similar routing that I'm looking for, which is to go into the dash behind the climate panel and then out into the footwell? I eventually want to install the 12v USB plug as shown by element56 above.

I successfully removed the knee bolster, the center console trim around the shifter, but not the side panel underneath the knee bolster. Looks like it may be held on by a torx that lives under the knee bolster, but I wasn't in the mood to get out a driver and continue disassembly. Maybe this weekend.

In any event, my Rennline mount should be here soon and we will go from there.
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      01-04-2024, 11:43 PM   #174
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Here's my Rennline mount and Apple charger:



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      01-05-2024, 08:10 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorpetie View Post
Here's my Rennline mount and Apple charger:



Thanks. Mine is lost in the mail someplace. Can you still use the cupholders with it positioned there?
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      01-05-2024, 01:46 PM   #176
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With Rennline mount, placement is crucial... but you will most likely lose one of the cup holder in the center console. If you place the rennline right in the middle, it will occupy both cup holders.

I've placed mine so that I can still get access to the volume button. With this, you can probably fit a small drink (really small) and large drink. Also of note, if you have an iPhone Max size, you won't be able to open the cup holder cover with the phone in place... regular phone size will be fine with opening/closing the cover without having to remove the phone (which is in my case). I still prefer the Rennline over Proclip.

<<correction: my daughter put her iPhone Max on the mount and it does NOT interfere with the opening and closing of the cup hold cover.>>




Last edited by taylorpetie; 01-07-2024 at 11:08 PM..
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