[Dartimus]

Hi, everyone. Would anybody happen to know what may be causing the strut brace alignment issue shown in the photo? I recently attempted to install a new Karbonis strut brace, but the center anchoring point is a lot wider than factory, causing the Karbonius strut brace to sit on top of my GruppeM center intake shroud.

I reached out to Karbonius, but they confirmed the strut brace was built to spec. The car has never been in an accident and I’ve only recently hit 2000 miles.

Thanks for the help.

[forcefed]

Looks like the rad support structure is slightly shifted to one side. I'm not sure if the dealer would do anything since the oem struct brace still fits "fine", there's a reason that center hole is so big.
You could possibly drill the holes on the Karbonis strut brace a few sizes bigger, that would allow you to shift the brace to the drivers side, assuming the dealer or Karbonis can't help you in any way.

[Diesel power]

That looks like normal manufacturing tolerance to me. As poster above said, the fact that the OEM bracket has such a oversized mounting hole is a clue that there is a fair amount of tolerance stackup for that location.
I think the bigger issue is the Karbonius bracket and Gruppe M intake were not designed for eachother. The Gruppe M clearly has a notch for the "V shaped" OEM (and similar) attachment and the Karbonius is wider at the same point. Since the intake is not structural you can try to open up the holes and shift things around, but I'm note sure you can fix that clearance issue.

[Forzanerazzurri]

There is a lot going on in that engine bay

[BzsBimmer]

Somewhat similar. When I got my new CS strutbrace, mind you this is an OEM piece, it also would not fit. One side would not engage.

I had to loosen my strut tower bolts to get it to align properly. Something you might want to try since the three points may not be triangular to the center bolt, by adjusting the angle, could help with that bottom bolt. YMMV.

[HI M3]

I don't think the OP is saying that the alignment of the bolt hole is off center. I think what he's saying is the design of the mounting point is larger/wider than stock.

OP, can you clarify this?

If that's the case, can you add spacers so the strut bar sits higher?

[Hit_Apex]

Originally Posted by Diesel power

the Karbonius bracket and Gruppe M intake were not designed for each other. The Gruppe M clearly has a notch for the "V shaped" OEM (and similar) attachment and the Karbonius is wider at the same point.

Agree and was mentioned above. I second trying a washer or two.

[Dartimus]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

Somewhat similar. When I got my new CS strutbrace, mind you this is an OEM piece, it also would not fit. One side would not engage.

I had to loosen my strut tower bolts to get it to align properly. Something you might want to try since the three points may not be triangular to the center bolt, by adjusting the angle, could help with that bottom bolt. YMMV.

Thank you! I was able to resolve my issue based on your suggestion. For anybody experiencing the same problem, Dinan provides instructions on how to remedy the misalignment.

Instructions for Part# D180-0015

[aremmell]

+1

I just noticed the same issue putting my stock brace back on after installing an Eventuri intake.

I thought maybe I had it in upside-down, but it's correct. I don't remember it being this far off-center when I took it off, and the wear pattern on the center hole of the brace looks like the bolt was in perfectly straight before (you would expect to see the wear off to one side if the bolt wasn't in the center).

The car has been on level ground the entire time, so I'm super confused. Maybe the braces were under tension already just sitting and when I took them off it relaxed and now is misaligned?

I don't think I have an E socket large enough to loosen the bolts in the Dinan instructions, so I'll see what my dealer says tomorrow.

Here's a photo of mine:

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by aremmell

+1

I just noticed the same issue putting my stock brace back on after installing an Eventuri intake.

I thought maybe I had it in upside-down, but it's correct. I don't remember it being this far off-center when I took it off, and the wear pattern on the center hole of the brace looks like the bolt was in perfectly straight before (you would expect to see the wear off to one side if the bolt wasn't in the center).

The car has been on level ground the entire time, so I'm super confused. Maybe the braces were under tension already just sitting and when I took them off it relaxed and now is misaligned?

I don't think I have an E socket large enough to loosen the bolts in the Dinan instructions, so I'll see what my dealer says tomorrow.

Here's a photo of mine:

Definitely preloaded and the chassis relaxed when the bolts were removed. Try lifting the car up slightly to see if that better aligns things. Other option is to remove the suspension strut tower bolts and shift things around. At least you now know the triangular strut brace stiffens the strut towers!

[aremmell]

Welp, I went to do what M3SQRD said, and one of the strut brace studs came out instead of the nut (the car was in the air when i did this). The nut didn't seem that tight when i removed it after the fact:



Have any of you experienced this? What is the SOP? Loctite and wait overnight before attempting to re-thread the nut on?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by aremmell

Welp, I went to do what M3SQRD said, and one of the strut brace studs came out instead of the nut (the car was in the air when i did this). The nut didn't seem that tight when i removed it after the fact:

Have any of you experienced this? What is the SOP? Loctite and wait overnight before attempting to re-thread the nut on?

Not a great design! This is going to be a common thing if no Loctite was used at the factory. You can try to screw it in by hand but the first thread looks damaged. Use the stud to see if it’ll clean up the first thread. If not, you’ll need a tap and die set to clean it up. Definitely use Loctite when reinstalling the stud.

[aremmell]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Not a great design! This is going to be a common thing if no Loctite was used at the factory. You can try to screw it in by hand but the first thread looks damaged. Use the stud to see if it’ll clean up the first thread. If not, you’ll need a tap and die set to clean it up. Definitely use Loctite when reinstalling the stud.

Can confirm that

1. This is, indeed, a stupid design. The threads run the same direction as the nuts. I believe what happened is that I over-torqued it the last time, and the stud gave way before the nut did when I backed it out.
2. The following resolved this issue for me: Take two of the strut brace nut/washer combos, thread one on upside-down, (but not all the way) then another one right side up. Now you can torque the stud into the strut tower assembly ("guten tight"). Loctite 272, let it cure overnight and remove nuts with a dab of WD-40.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by aremmell

Can confirm that

1. This is, indeed, a stupid design. The threads run the same direction as the nuts. I believe what happened is that I over-torqued it the last time, and the stud gave way before the nut did when I backed it out.
2. The following resolved this issue for me: Take two of the strut brace nut/washer combos, thread one on upside-down, (but not all the way) then another one right side up. Now you can torque the stud into the strut tower assembly ("guten tight"). Loctite 272, let it cure overnight and remove nuts with a dab of WD-40.

1-not surprised. Right hand-right hand threaded stud can work if properly torqued to begin with. Wheel studs are threaded this way.

2-jam nuts work every time! Loctite should address the issue.