[SG82JP]

I taped a microphone on my rear bumper and took few vids. Sorry for the bumpy videos. Please focus on the burble sound😂

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8th3hkkw3...0sqQLO-Ia?dl=0

[The Dad]

Originally Posted by SG82JP

I taped a microphone on my rear bumper and took few vids. Sorry for the bumpy videos. Please focus on the burble sound😂

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8th3hkkw3...0sqQLO-Ia?dl=0

You watching on the middle screen. Have you tweaked that as well?🤔

[SG82JP]

Originally Posted by The Dad

You watching on the middle screen. Have you tweaked that as well?🤔

My daughter was watching TV😂
Keep pushing I drive dial forward and press MEDIA, HOME, MEDIA quickly. You can be in Speedlock mode and check the below options.
I'm in Japan and I don't know if this works in your region tho.

[The Dad]

Originally Posted by SG82JP

My daughter was watching TV😂
Keep pushing I drive dial forward and press MEDIA, HOME, MEDIA quickly. You can be in Speedlock mode and check the below options.
I'm in Japan and I don't know if this works in your region tho.

Thanks for the info , will have a look when I get my car😎

[Wamion117]

Originally Posted by hamy

Feedback from BimmerLink directly on opening the flaps with their application.

Hi,
does not work for the G80 unfortunately. We achieved to control the exhaust flap when the car is standing still, but as soon as the car starts moving, the DME will regain control over the flap.

This supports what many have reported on this thread already...but just closing the loop with more info.

Fuck that sucks…I guess I'm going with the plug route thanks for the insight

[DecemberStorm]

thx for your videos SG82JP ... immediate noticable diff is the farts on upshifts which I can only hear when pushing full throttle

i will try to get this done soon then

[SG82JP]

Originally Posted by DecemberStorm

thx for your videos SG82JP ... immediate noticable diff is the farts on upshifts which I can only hear when pushing full throttle

i will try to get this done soon then

I'm glad that you liked it🙏 This is a worthwhile act👍

[Murf]

Originally Posted by peanuboy

I bought the pnp version of this last week and now on its way over from Germany, hope it's here soon!

Mine arrived and doesn't seem to work. Starting some back and forth with dev but nothing yet.

Were you able to get it to work?

[peanuboy]

Originally Posted by Murf

Mine arrived and doesn't seem to work. Starting some back and forth with dev but nothing yet.

Were you able to get it to work?

I got mine last week and only got it to work yesterday after a few email exchanges with Markus

What I end up doing was leave it unplugged and start the car, plug it in right after I press the engine start button, I notice immediate sound difference as if the valves have already opened up fully

you might say well it's from cold start but the "grunt" stayed even after a couple minutes

In terms of controlling it, when I'm parked on the driveway and I press the "Resume" button on the steering wheel for a couple seconds, I can see the left blinker light blinks twice meaning the vavle controller is working, and if I press the button again for 2 seconds I can see the right blinks twice and I notice the "grunt" is weakened and sound back to stock

I must say even with the valve controller set to "ON" the exhaust, sounds throatier and deeper however is still nothing like the sound of some folks on here who modified their midpipes or did resonator/2nd cat delete, it is still very mild.

and last but not least I have not figured out how this valve controller works along side with the ASC, my initial observation is when VC is "ON" even with ASC turned off the valves stay open, but I need more observation on this though and hopefully can get some video and post here in coming days

[Murf]

Originally Posted by peanuboy

I got mine last week and only got it to work yesterday after a few email exchanges with Markus

What I end up doing was leave it unplugged and start the car, plug it in right after I press the engine start button, I notice immediate sound difference as if the valves have already opened up fully

you might say well it's from cold start but the "grunt" stayed even after a couple minutes

In terms of controlling it, when I'm parked on the driveway and I press the "Resume" button on the steering wheel for a couple seconds, I can see the left blinker light blinks twice meaning the vavle controller is working, and if I press the button again for 2 seconds I can see the right blinks twice and I notice the "grunt" is weakened and sound back to stock

I must say even with the valve controller set to "ON" the exhaust, sounds throatier and deeper however is still nothing like the sound of some folks on here who modified their midpipes or did resonator/2nd cat delete, it is still very mild.

and last but not least I have not figured out how this valve controller works along side with the ASC, my initial observation is when VC is "ON" even with ASC turned off the valves stay open, but I need more observation on this though and hopefully can get some video and post here in coming days

Damn, good for you. I cannot get this to work at all, when I start the car the valves are open but the minute I put it in drive it reverts to stock behavior. None of the buttons seem to control it either, I press RESUME and nothing flashes and the tone never changes. I have emails open to Markus but his first response was to regurgitate the instructions.

The only thing I can think of at this point is that I have coded active sound off and perhaps that is messing with the units programming. If that's the case it's a bummer because I was looking to decrease fake sound/increase real sound with this thing. EDIT: Nope, I reverted it and still nothing, no response at all to Resume button.

[MMnut]

You dont have to start the car or do anything with engine on /off / sport. The process is simple:

1. Open the controller from 3 bolts.
2. Turn the valve manually with the pliers to the open position, confirm via visual looking in the exhaust). Use a wire to secure it in that position.

3. Install back the controller with thick spacers and longer bolts so that the motor has clearance and does not touch the valve.
Done.

The tricky part is to find the bolts that are the same size with factory ones but longer to accommodate the thick spacers (I make some rubber spacers)

[abrush32]

The wire method works great. I'm an idiot when it comes to anything mechanical and even I could do it (in about 45 min) Too easy to justify purchasing the valve controller. Sound is WAY better. Resonators need to go next and should be good.

[babyghost]

Guys just unplug a fuse to leave the flap open, I did this on my friend's manual and the flaps stayed open. It was a 7.5 on the left side of the fuse box. Can someone share a picture of the fuse box I can circle out which fuse to pull.

[SG82JP]

Originally Posted by babyghost

Guys just unplug a fuse to leave the flap open, I did this on my friend's manual and the flaps stayed open. It was a 7.5 on the left side of the fuse box. Can someone share a picture of the fuse box I can circle out which fuse to pull.

If the fuse trick really works, it will be so much easier👍

[babyghost]

Originally Posted by SG82JP

If the fuse trick really works, it will be so much easier

It's the 7.5 on the left, I circled it in the picture. Just start the car and push the exhaust button to open the valves, you can double check by looking in to the exhaust with your phone's flashlight. After making sure the valves are open just pull the fuse with the included small red tool.

[MannyS]

Originally Posted by babyghost

It's the 7.5 on the left, I circled it in the picture. Just start the car and push the exhaust button to open the valves, you can double check by looking in to the exhaust with your phone's flashlight. After making sure the valves are open just pull the fuse with the included small red tool.

[sleepdoc]

Can anyone confirm this works ? Does it keep the valve completely open ?

[TrentMeister]

Originally Posted by sleepdoc

Can anyone confirm this works ? Does it keep the valve completely open ?

The problem is the only time the valves fully open is at 70% throttle in gear

[///AVM]

As has been described previously in this thread in terms of wiring the valve open, the stock actuator never fully opens the valve and the maximal opening achieved is very transient.

If this were not the case, it would have simply been a matter of unplugging the valve actuator with the valves fully open. . . but the valves never fully open unless manually opened.

So, regarding pulling the fuse, I am not sure how it would be any different than unplugging the valve actuator? How are you going to get the valves fully open before pulling the fuse?

It seems pulling the fuse would require the same process as wiring the valves open. Namely, you would have to remove the valve actuator, manually open the valve fully, then pull fuse (instead of wiring valve open). Further, since the actuator cannot be manually turned to the fully open position, you would still have to leave the actuator off.

There is a problem with manually opening the valves fully and not replacing the actuator. The problem is the valves have been shown to ‘flap’ and ‘rattle’ and ‘close’ if not secured in open position with a wire. Again, the actuator cannot be manually turned to fully opened position and, thus, it cannot be replaced to hold the fully opened valves in place. If it could, you would be able to replace the unplugged actuator and not have to secure (wire) the valves open in the first place.

Thus, I see no advantage or even effective manner by which pulling the fuse could work? Perhaps I am missing something and look forward to hearing feedback from others.

///AVM

Cc vetteflier

[babyghost]

Originally Posted by ///AVM

As has been described previously in this thread in terms of wiring the valve open, the stock actuator never fully opens the valve and the maximal opening achieved is very transient.

If this were not the case, it would have simply been a matter of unplugging the valve actuator with the valves fully open. . . but the valves never fully open unless manually opened.

So, regarding pulling the fuse, I am not sure how it would be any different than unplugging the valve actuator? How are you going to get the valves fully open before pulling the fuse?

It seems pulling the fuse would require the same process as wiring the valves open. Namely, you would have to remove the valve actuator, manually open the valve fully, then pull fuse (instead of wiring valve open). Further, since the actuator cannot me manually turned to the fully open position, you would still have to leave the actuator off.

There is a problem with manually opening the valves fully and not replacing the actuator. The problem is the valves have been shown to ‘flap’ and ‘rattle’ and ‘close’ if not secured in open position with a wire. Again, the actuator cannot be manually turned to fully opened position and, thus, it cannot be replaced to hold the fully opened valves in place. If it could, you would be able to replace the unplugged actuator and not have to secure (wire) the valves open in the first place.

Thus, I see no advantage or even effective manner by which pulling the fuse could work? Perhaps I am missing something and look forward to hearing feedback from others.

///AVM

Cc vetteflier

Hi AVM, I don't have my car yet so I can't confirm if the valves are fully open when stationary(revving in sport plus with exhaust button on). It does sounds like it's open, I checked by looking into the exhaust and it seems to be open.

[///AVM]

@babyghost

If you read the earlier posts in this thread, many of us have confirmed the valves never fully open and are only open transiently. That is how we know the only way to open them fully is by doing so manually.

Plus, you cannot manually open the actuator fully. Honestly, not even sure the actuator is capable of turning to a full open valve position.

Hope that helps.

///AVM

[vetteflier]

Originally Posted by sleepdoc

Can anyone confirm this works ? Does it keep the valve completely open ?

No. Valves will never be fully open at the time you pull the fuse. They are only fully open for a split second--under full throttle. That's why I initially used my method to tie them open permanently. And AVM's pictorial is foolproof. Read the thread from the start.