[Zirenz2006]

I just ordered the VCS-02

Default - Open
Activated - Factory

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Zirenz2006

I just ordered the VCS-02

Default - Open
Activated - Factory

[HTTP 410]

I received my controller last night and installed it this morning. I feel like it gives the stock exhaust just that little bit of oomph that it was missing. I'm pretty pleased with it.

Thanks Mike

[rgeorge33]

Received mine this week, too. It makes the stock exhaust seem much more lively. So far, I think it's money well spent.

[Zirenz2006]

Originally Posted by HTTP 410

I received my controller last night and installed it this morning. I feel like it gives the stock exhaust just that little bit of oomph that it was missing. I'm pretty pleased with it.

Thanks Mike

Originally Posted by rgeorge33

Received mine this week, too. It makes the stock exhaust seem much more lively. So far, I think it's money well spent.

Good to hear. Can't wait to get mine.

[Molina330]

Considering the flaps are pwm controlled, if you just remove signal wire, wouldn't the actuator open? Or if it closes and the signal is inverse can you connect the signal to the negative?

I was looking at the schematics and I was wondering if anyone has tried this?

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by Molina330

Considering the flaps are pwm controlled, if you just remove signal wire, wouldn't the actuator open? Or if it closes and the signal is inverse can you connect the signal to the negative?

I was looking at the schematics and I was wondering if anyone has tried this?

Perhaps but would need to modify the stock connector?

I recently got an aftermarket exhaust fitted and they for some reason bent the exhaust springs as they couldn't get the actuator notch and valve to line up (as it had over rotated)

Anyway long story short I bent the springs back and used BMW ISTA to activate the Exhaust flap installation function which resets the valves into their maximum open position to make installation easier and ensure the notches line up

So one could just use ISTA to do this and then unplug the actuators - it would log an error code that the actuator line is not connected but the result would be open valves all the time

...not for me though as my turbo back system is quite loud as it is so I prefer the valves opening/closing naturally

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by rgeorge33

Received mine this week, too. It makes the stock exhaust seem much more lively. So far, I think it's money well spent.

[tom @ eas]

Just posted info about the new Awron Smart CANFlap EVC controllers today, more details are in this thread:

AWRON - Smart CANFlap Exhaust Valve Controller for BMW
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28815483

[GixY2K]

Just like a few other members of our community, I went with the home made "full time open flaps" mod.
I was reluctant at first, but as soon as I looked under the car and started to disconnect parts, I realized that it was a simple process; a little more involved if you're OCD like me that went overboard with the electric tape and zipties

Preface:
- Pros: $0 cost, louder exhaust, more audible burbles, valve rattle solved, easy mod reversal.
- Cons: LOUDER COLD STARTS (still sounds like pot and pans banging for about 10-15sec), no remote control; it stays open all the time, sound changes a little between comfort and S/S+.

Here are my steps (apologies if I'm using the wrong terms, but at least you get the idea):
- If you can lift the rear, it will be easier, even if its a few inches off the ground (I did it flat on the ground)
- Disconnect connector from servo-assembly
- Seal connector w/ elec. tape (option: use small ziptie around connector to secure elec. tape)
- Tuck connector inside muffler heat shield; secure it with ziptie to nearest screw assembly; see pic. below (option: wrap elec. tape around cable housing to prevent ziptie rubbing against it)
- Remove servo-assembly from exhaust bracket
- Seal servo-assembly connection w/ elec. tape (option: use small ziptie around connection to secure elec. tape)
- Turn valve-key clockwise 1/4 turn or until it stops to position valve at 100% open
- Optional step: wrap metal valve actuator stud with elec. tape to prevent any metal to metal contact
- Re-install servo-assembly back onto the exhaust bracket; the valve actuator stud will NOT line up with the valve-key. However...
- During re-installation, you'll notice the bolts will almost make the servo-assembly sit tight against its exhaust bracket despite the fact that the valve actuator stud and valve key don't line up; the valve key has a spring that allows it to move in-and-out, and thus providing enough play to allow the servo-assembly return to its original location w/ all three bolts driven almost all the way in. I personally used 'blue' Loctite' to ensure bolts don't get lose and fall.

Note:
- I noticed that if you don't re-attach the servo assembly, the valve will be lose an create a audible vibrating sound at low RPMs
- Some folks claim that without the servo assembly, the valves will remain open (once manually turned to fully open position); but then you have to contend with the vibration I explained above

And a quick observation: Coming from STIs and GTRs, I never thought that getting a car to sound good could be such PITA!!! I give BMW A+ on just about everything on this car, EXCEPT THE SOUND... C- (and I'm being generous)

I'll try to include a picture just so that you can get an idea of what it looks like from underneath...
...
...
...

[Molina330]

Originally Posted by GixY2K

Just like a few other members of our community, I went with the home made "full time open flaps" mod.
I was reluctant at first, but as soon as I looked under the car and started to disconnect parts, I realized that it was a simple process; a little more involved if you're OCD like me that went overboard with the electric tape and zipties

Preface:
- Pros: $0 cost, louder exhaust, more audible burbles, valve rattle solved, easy mod reversal.
- Cons: LOUDER COLD STARTS (still sounds like pot and pans banging for about 10-15sec), no remote control; it stays open all the time, sound changes a little between comfort and S/S+.

Here are my steps (apologies if I'm using the wrong terms, but at least you get the idea):
- If you can lift the rear, it will be easier, even if its a few inches off the ground (I did it flat on the ground)
- Disconnect connector from servo-assembly
- Seal connector w/ elec. tape (option: use small ziptie around connector to secure elec. tape)
- Tuck connector inside muffler heat shield; secure it with ziptie to nearest screw assembly; see pic. below (option: wrap elec. tape around cable housing to prevent ziptie rubbing against it)
- Remove servo-assembly from exhaust bracket
- Seal servo-assembly connection w/ elec. tape (option: use small ziptie around connection to secure elec. tape)
- Turn valve-key clockwise 1/4 turn or until it stops to position valve at 100% open
- Optional step: wrap metal valve actuator stud with elec. tape to prevent any metal to metal contact
- Re-install servo-assembly back onto the exhaust bracket; the valve actuator stud will NOT line up with the valve-key. However...
- During re-installation, you'll notice the bolts will almost make the servo-assembly sit tight against its exhaust bracket despite the fact that the valve actuator stud and valve key don't line up; the valve key has a spring that allows it to move in-and-out, and thus providing enough play to allow the servo-assembly return to its original location w/ all three bolts driven almost all the way in. I personally used 'blue' Loctite' to ensure bolts don't get lose and fall.

Note:
- I noticed that if you don't re-attach the servo assembly, the valve will be lose an create a audible vibrating sound at low RPMs
- Some folks claim that without the servo assembly, the valves will remain open (once manually turned to fully open position); but then you have to contend with the vibration I explained above

And a quick observation: Coming from STIs and GTRs, I never thought that getting a car to sound good could be such PITA!!! I give BMW A+ on just about everything on this car, EXCEPT THE SOUND... C- (and I'm being generous)

I'll try to include a picture just so that you can get an idea of what it looks like from underneath...
...
...
...

Awesome, thank you for the explanation, I was wondering can you remove the servo and add a plate to cover the servo opening? I want to make sure I can reverse the process of anything.

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by Molina330

Awesome, thank you for the explanation, I was wondering can you remove the servo and add a plate to cover the servo opening? I want to make sure I can reverse the process of anything.

You can. But you may get a rattling noise at certain RPMs coming from the lose flap/valve.

Also, as you can see on the picture provided by Davem4 on page 7, the valve assembly is not fully enclosed. So, a plate would provide limited protection.

[recentrisk2]

I have a VCS-02 that i ordered default to open for sale. I have a newborn and I ordered another to default to factory (closed). I have just the controller and remote. Anyone interested?

[greengoblinm3]

anyone install their module valve controller without lifting their car/taking their rear wheel off? Its very tight between the the rear quarter panel and the rear wheel to stick your hand in there so im just curious. Also, anyone who already installed getting a drone sound at (2k rpm) ?

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by greengoblinm3

anyone install their module valve controller without lifting their car/taking their rear wheel off? Its very tight between the the rear quarter panel and the rear wheel to stick your hand in there so im just curious. Also, anyone who already installed getting a drone sound at (2k rpm) ?

Wheel off??? You dont need to take any wheels off to install this. You mount it to one of the bolts holding the OEM valve motor in place. Which you can totally get too by just sliding under the car. Its nowhere near the wheel of fender well. Jacking one side up would make it easier of course. But you dont need too. This is a simple install. Do not threat about doing this. It takes 15 minutes max.

The whole purpose of the OEM operation is to control sound and drone. So if you over ride it to full open and you lug the motor in a high gear, of course you are going to hear some resonance. If it bothers you when cruising down the highway, press the button to go into OEM mode where it gets silent. That said, valves fully open do not sound like a 90's honda civic with a fart cannon going BAUUUUUGH down the highway. Its like 5-10% louder if that. More than anything it makes startup (if you choose full open default and oem mode when off) sound much nicer. Deeper.

Just get the controller and you'll see. Don't over think this. It's worth the price of admission.

[greengoblinm3]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Wheel off??? You dont need to take any wheels off to install this. You mount it to one of the bolts holding the OEM valve motor in place. Which you can totally get too by just sliding under the car. Its nowhere near the wheel of fender well. Jacking one side up would make it easier of course. But you dont need too. This is a simple install. Do not threat about doing this. It takes 15 minutes max.

The whole purpose of the OEM operation is to control sound and drone. So if you over ride it to full open and you lug the motor in a high gear, of course you are going to hear some resonance. If it bothers you when cruising down the highway, press the button to go into OEM mode where it gets silent. That said, valves fully open do not sound like a 90's honda civic with a fart cannon going BAUUUUUGH down the highway. Its like 5-10% louder if that. More than anything it makes startup (if you choose full open default and oem mode when off) sound much nicer. Deeper.

Just get the controller and you'll see. Don't over think this. It's worth the price of admission.

I totally understand about the wheel thing, but the one I bought allows me the option of leaving the controller in the trunk (so you slide the wires through a hole in the trunk (on the right side) down to under the car and that area is close to the rear wheel where you need to catch those wires and where the valves are close to.... Hope that clears it up a bit.

Regarding the droning, what you said is not fully true. I had a facelift c63 before this and installed the same module from the same company and there was absolutely no droning whatsoever. It sounded amazing actually. So im not sure why the bmw gives a drony sound (if it does)

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by greengoblinm3

I totally understand about the wheel thing, but the one I bought allows me the option of leaving the controller in the trunk (so you slide the wires through a hole in the trunk (on the right side) down to under the car and that area is close to the rear wheel where you need to catch those wires and where the valves are close to.... Hope that clears it up a bit.

Regarding the droning, what you said is not fully true. I had a facelift c63 before this and installed the same module from the same company and there was absolutely no droning whatsoever. It sounded amazing actually. So im not sure why the bmw gives a drony sound (if it does)

Sir. You're asking about the bmw controller on the g8x platform correct? If so I answered your question correctly. Comparing a c63 v8 exhaust to this is not the same.

[greengoblinm3]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Sir. You're asking about the bmw controller on the g8x platform correct? If so I answered your question correctly. Comparing a c63 v8 exhaust to this is not the same.

THat was only a part of what I wrote but ok

[iviegatron]

Anyone selling their VSC-2 Controller? I'm interested. Just PM me.

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by iviegatron

Anyone selling their VSC-2 Controller? I'm interested. Just PM me.

I thought you were already running a VSC-2 setup?

[Poffman]

Originally Posted by recentrisk2

I have a VCS-02 that i ordered default to open for sale. I have a newborn and I ordered another to default to factory (closed). I have just the controller and remote. Anyone interested?

If you still have this PM me price shipped to 98198.

[m20e3087]

Finally got my VSC-2 thanks to Mike. My god the burble is offensive loud. Took it for short spin and kept upshifting at red light to keep to burble noise down lol. It's loud throughout the rev range. Will test it out on the highway and report back. Overall super easy install and well worth it for bragging right and impress your buddies. Otherwise will keep it factory mode but when I am craving the loudness will reach for the remote. BTW I am running catless DP with mid-pipe mod. X-pipe right before the muffler. Took out two res before the muffler.