[moproblems]

I just used a non pilot drilling wood screw, about 2 inches long. If you use too long of a screw you will more than likely bind up on the tunnel, it's tight. I had it all done in 20 minutes or so.

[MTM3]

Originally Posted by moproblems

I just used a non pilot drilling wood screw, about 2 inches long. If you use too long of a screw you will more than likely bind up on the tunnel, it's tight. I had it all done in 20 minutes or so.

Gotcha. Thanks for the extra tips.
Must be so much better like with any CDV delete

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by MTM3

Gotcha. Thanks for the extra tips.
Must be so much better like with any CDV delete

A friend of mine said that it is immediately noticeable in a way that it's normal. Actuates like you'd expect now.

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by moproblems

A friend of mine said that it is immediately noticeable in a way that it's normal. Actuates like you'd expect now.

Wait, a friend? Did you not do this on your car? I'd plan to do this as soon as I got the car, but hoping to hear more positive feedback like this.

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

Wait, a friend? Did you not do this on your car? I'd plan to do this as soon as I got the car, but hoping to hear more positive feedback like this.

No I did it on my own car, but I had him verify that it wasn't just placebo. He constantly complained about the clutch feel when I'd have him drive it.

[JoshuaevansF87]

I feel stupid to ask but what is a CDV delete and what's the benefits?

[Tall Tom Cruise]

Originally Posted by JoshuaevansF87

I feel stupid to ask but what is a CDV delete and what's the benefits?

+1... also want to know if this does anything to smooth out the super clunky 1-2 shift

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by JoshuaevansF87

I feel stupid to ask but what is a CDV delete and what's the benefits?

Wikipedia summarizes it pretty well.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch_delay_valve

Bottom line is that the restriction limits how fast the clutch engages. Makes it impossible to shift as fast as you want to during spirited driving. If you're trying to shift very quickly and go WOT in the next gear, you drop the clutch and imediately put gas pedal to the floor... But the damn CDV is causing the clutch to slowly engage instead of grabbing right away, so you end up slipping the cutch. It's exacerbated the more power the car makes. To avoid that, you basically have to shift slowly on purpose, which sucks. The fact the clutch engagement rate is governed by the CDV instead of your left foot also makes it feel awkward even driving casually. Removing the CDV from my 2009 135i was the very first mod I did after 6 months of not understanding why I couldn't shift fast without slipping the clutch or bogging the engine. I came from a mustang that had no such issue. Night and day difference, best $20 spent on that car.

[tydntydj]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

I couldn't shift fast without slipping the clutch or bogging the engine.

This is how I'm shifting from 1 to 2, hoping I can get this done this weekend.

[tydntydj]

Alright I went in and removed it today. The procedure is almost exactly the same as the previous gen. I followed this video and everything was almost identical:

Some things I noticed:

1. The bolt holding the line to the transmission is a pain in the ass to remove. I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove this bolt (I didn't).
2. The clutch feels a little lighter, but I'm pretty sure I fully bled the line. I used a pressure bleeder, opened the bleed nipple, and pumped the clutch for 20-30 minutes. A bit of fluid came out. When I took it out to drive, I didn't notice any delays in engagement like other people have said when the line has air bubbles.
3. The engagement is much more direct when driving at low speeds. Before removing the CDV, when I let off the clutch pedal, the clutch doesn't always bite after the same amount of time.

[moproblems]

Originally Posted by tydntydj

Alright I went in and removed it today. The procedure is almost exactly the same as the previous gen. I followed this video and everything was almost identical:

Some things I noticed:

1. The bolt holding the line to the transmission is a pain in the ass to remove. I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove this bolt (I didn't).
2. The clutch feels a little lighter, but I'm pretty sure I fully bled the line. I used a pressure bleeder, opened the bleed nipple, and pumped the clutch for 20-30 minutes. A bit of fluid came out. When I took it out to drive, I didn't notice any delays in engagement like other people have said when the line has air bubbles.
3. The engagement is much more direct when driving at low speeds. Before removing the CDV, when I let off the clutch pedal, the clutch doesn't always bite after the same amount of time.

You don't want to open the nipple then pump you want to pump hold it to the floor and have somebody else open the nipple until you hear the clutch release then close. If it worked out fine for you that' s fine but for people in the future don't do that. Make sure you top off with pentosin dot4lv, can be had at your local autozone.

My pedal is easier to actuate afterwards, however.

[EDIT] also the nipple on the slave is extremely strange, for me it took 2 or 3 full rotations to allow fluid flow, unlike a caliper where you crack it and it's wide open.

[MTM3]

Originally Posted by tydntydj

Alright I went in and removed it today. The procedure is almost exactly the same as the previous gen. I followed this video and everything was almost identical:

Some things I noticed:

1. The bolt holding the line to the transmission is a pain in the ass to remove. I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove this bolt (I didn't).
2. The clutch feels a little lighter, but I'm pretty sure I fully bled the line. I used a pressure bleeder, opened the bleed nipple, and pumped the clutch for 20-30 minutes. A bit of fluid came out. When I took it out to drive, I didn't notice any delays in engagement like other people have said when the line has air bubbles.
3. The engagement is much more direct when driving at low speeds. Before removing the CDV, when I let off the clutch pedal, the clutch doesn't always bite after the same amount of time.

Fantastic!
Doing this the first weekend after the car arrives

[mzcp]

Doing the CDV delete now. Do you remove both the metal and plastic parts? Confirmed that they both need to be removed. Much better shifting as described above. Thanks to moproblems

[IL Pete]

It was suggested on another thread that you could do a CDV Delete by replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder with one from an E9x M3. That apparently worked for F8x M3's, and it was speculated/assumed that would work for G8x.

Has anyone tried that method? I sent the above video to a local shop, and they asked if I could just provide that part and they would swap them, versus taking the CDV out of the existing one.

Thanks in advance!

[mzcp]

Originally Posted by IL Pete

It was suggested on another thread that you could do a CDV Delete by replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder with one from an E9x M3. That apparently worked for F8x M3's, and it was speculated/assumed that would work for G8x.

Has anyone tried that method? I sent the above video to a local shop, and they asked if I could just provide that part and they would swap them, versus taking the CDV out of the existing one.

Thanks in advance!

Part Number 21526785964. I don't know if anyone swapped this on G8X. I did the CDV delete on mine

[ChrisM4]

Originally Posted by mzcp

Part Number 21526785964. I don't know if anyone swapped this on G8X. I did the CDV delete on mine

Visually the parts seem to look identical. Wonder if the CDV is the only difference?

[Flying05]

Please don't flame me for this as it's probably a dumb question, but could this be done by a dealer? Or I assume if anything just an Indy? Cost to do?

[TrentMeister]

Originally Posted by Flying05

Please don't flame me for this as it's probably a dumb question, but could this be done by a dealer? Or I assume if anything just an Indy? Cost to do?

Any "bmw/German" shop will get it done for you.

[IL Pete]

Originally Posted by mzcp

Part Number 21526785964. I don't know if anyone swapped this on G8X. I did the CDV delete on mine

Update here - I used this part, had a local independent shop swap them, and it worked fine. (Thank you, mzcp!)

It does improve the shifting feel all around, everything is much more "direct" feeling now.

It does NOT fully resolve the awkward 1-2 shift. That is still there to some degree, but I think it does help nailing that a bit easier.

Between the BMS Clutch Stop, the CDV Delete and getting used to it, I miss the 1-2 shift now maybe 1 to 2 times in 10 versus previously 5 to 7 of 10, when I first got the car. And when I do miss it, it is not as badly.

I do plan to do the Auto Solutions SSK, when that becomes available.

The other issue I have had is that first gear is so short relative to my 718 Cayman GTS 4.0, I have had a hard time not hitting the rev limiter hard. But I am getting used to that more so now. I don't use the Heads-Up Display, but I always use M Mode, and I find the Shift Lights to be very helpful, you see them in your downwards peripheral vision. I can now more so nail the shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 near redline, and that is great fun, especially in MDM mode or with M Traction Control on.

I am now pretty convinced that the Manual version of this car is best for me, I think I would get bored with the Comp with the Automatic, very quickly.

[mzcp]

Originally Posted by IL Pete

Update here - I used this part, had a local independent shop swap them, and it worked fine. (Thank you, mzcp!)

It does improve the shifting feel all around, everything is much more "direct" feeling now.

It does NOT fully resolve the awkward 1-2 shift. That is still there to some degree, but I think it does help nailing that a bit easier.

Between the BMS Clutch Stop, the CDV Delete and getting used to it, I miss the 1-2 shift now maybe 1 to 2 times in 10 versus previously 5 to 7 of 10, when I first got the car. And when I do miss it, it is not as badly.

I do plan to do the Auto Solutions SSK, when that becomes available.

The other issue I have had is that first gear is so short relative to my 718 Cayman GTS 4.0, I have had a hard time not hitting the rev limiter hard. But I am getting used to that more so now. I don't use the Heads-Up Display, but I always use M Mode, and I find the Shift Lights to be very helpful, you see them in your downwards peripheral vision. I can now more so nail the shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 near redline, and that is great fun, especially in MDM mode or with M Traction Control on.

I am now pretty convinced that the Manual version of this car is best for me, I think I would get bored with the Comp with the Automatic, very quickly.

Glad it worked out for you. I always use Sport M mode and glance at the shifting lights and sound for shifting gears

[BMWnation]

Originally Posted by MTM3

Fantastic!
Doing this the first weekend after the car arrives

I took the plunge and did the CDV delete today on my 300 miles M4. I was a bit unsure, but oh man. I thought the car was easy to drive as is, but the CDV delete
makes shifting easier, clutch engages smoother. This has to be one of the easiest manual to drive. The car should of came this way.

Dave

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by BMWnation

I took the plunge and did the CDV delete today on my 300 miles M4. I was a bit unsure, but oh man. I thought the car was easy to drive as is, but the CDV delete
makes shifting easier, clutch engages smoother. This has to be one of the easiest manual to drive. The car should of came this way.

Dave

Nice. Did you swap the whole assembly or take it apart to remove the restriction? I need to get on this myself but haven't decided which way to go.