[harperium]

The Owner's Manual only says:

For M carbon ceramic brake:
Drive cautiously for the first approx.
600 miles/1000 km.

That's it? None of this "brake at 0.3g from 60 to 30 for ten times" nonsense?

[Berzerker]

Bedding brakes is not supposed to be ridiculous hard pulls and hard stops. It should be done gradually and evenly. Driving normally takes care of this in the first few drives. It's not a super important thing to do, consciously, if everything is installed correctly.

[Edgar_FriendlyX3M]

Originally Posted by harperium

The Owner's Manual only says:

For M carbon ceramic brake:

Drive cautiously for the first approx.

600 miles/1000 km.

That's it? None of this "brake at 0.3g from 60 to 30 for ten times" nonsense?

Coming from the guy that complained the X3M had no power in 8th gear when getting on the highway. 🙄

[FC4]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Bedding brakes is not supposed to be ridiculous hard pulls and hard stops. It should be done gradually and evenly. Driving normally takes care of this in the first few drives. It's not a super important thing to do, consciously, if everything is installed correctly.

This is incorrect. Like...not even close.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by FC4

This is incorrect. Like...not even close.

although pad transfer on CCBs isn’t exactly the same as pad transfer on iron brake rotors. CCBs have a friction layer (cracked surface) applied to the rotors and it’s the wearing off of this layer that results in the rotors needing to be replaced (as well as burning off of internal fibers which reduces the weight of the rotors. Rotors are marked with their min weight when replacement is required).

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by FC4

This is incorrect. Like...not even close.

Appreciate your thorough and incorrect insight. Thanks for playing!

This forum never disappoints.

[BackOnBlack]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Bedding brakes is not supposed to be ridiculous hard pulls and hard stops. It should be done gradually and evenly. Driving normally takes care of this in the first few drives. It's not a super important thing to do, consciously, if everything is installed correctly.

Properly bedding pads and rotors in is critical, although I'd agree that is less so on a street-only driven car. Then again, even on a street car, when pads are not bedded in, you get noise, vibrations, less braking power (especially when wet), etc.

https://www.pagidracing.com/files/Pu...ing-In_web.pdf

https://alconkits.com/blogs/tech-tip...eet-brake-pads

https://www.brembostoreusa.com/blog/...-need-to-know/

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by BackOnBlack

Properly bedding pads and rotors in is critical, although I'd agree that is less so on a street-only driven car. Then again, even on a street car, when pads are not bedded in, you get noise, vibrations, less braking power (especially when wet), etc.

https://www.pagidracing.com/files/Pu...ing-In_web.pdf

https://alconkits.com/blogs/tech-tip...eet-brake-pads

https://www.brembostoreusa.com/blog/...-need-to-know/

I didn't say bedding brakes isn't required, but everyone here seems to think you should be doing 80-0 full emergency stop pulls immediately out of the shop, which is 100% incorrect.

As I mentioned, they should be gradual and should be worked up from easy braking to moderate braking, as your links also mention. None of that full slam on the brakes multiple times nonsense. And my overall point being, the actual requirement for bedding brakes in will happen with those that drive normally/moderately enough that unless you're going to be tracking the car every day, you won't notice any difference.

[FC4]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Appreciate your thorough and incorrect insight. Thanks for playing!

This forum never disappoints.

I genuinely mean no disrespect, but I assure you that your post above is categorically untrue. As it's posted here on the forum forever, it can lead to misinformation and confusion for those reading in the future.

For insight, I'll break the post down piece by piece. Before all else, to answer the question "Is it necessary to properly bed in brakes?" Well, if you don't care to have maximum performance from your brakes and never intend to track the car, then it really doesn't matter. You don't need to bed your brakes for them to work, and regardless of that...a few thousand miles of street driving undos what you achieved from a proper bedding process anyway.

However, since OP asked, and on the topic of bedding specifically...

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Bedding brakes is not supposed to be ridiculous hard pulls and hard stops.

...the process will naturally involve hard pulls and hard stops. So, yes. There is no other way to bring both the rotor and pad surface to the appropriate temps, and cycle those temps appropriately in order to facilitate proper pad transfer.

This involves hard braking from moderate speed to a crawl, and accelerating relatively quickly back up to moderate speed (enough to cool the brakes a little but not too much)...repeatedly. The guides above from Pagid and Brembo outline the specifics well.

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Driving normally takes care of this in the first few drives.

Street driving actually undos or reverses the desired outcome of bedding in the first place, which is to embed an even layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. Regular, mild use of the brakes at cold temps effectively polish the surface off.

Originally Posted by Berzerker

It's not a super important thing to do, consciously, if everything is installed correctly.

Sure, it's not super important. But it does require a specific process. Otherwise, the brakes are not bed at all.

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by FC4

I genuinely mean no disrespect, but I assure you that your post above is categorically untrue. As it's posted here on the forum forever, it can lead to misinformation and confusion for those reading in the future.

What really gets me is tone. If you genuinely did not mean any disrespect, then you need to work on your tone. "This is incorrect. Like...not even close." does not at all show any respect towards the person you're replying to. If you actually cared, you'd have taken the time to put your thoughts down like you did here rather than dismiss and be antagonistic in this approach.

I'll break down your post piece by piece as well.

Before all else, to answer the question "Is it necessary to properly bed in brakes?" Well, if you don't care to have maximum performance from your brakes and never intend to track the car, then it really doesn't matter. You don't need to bed your brakes for them to work, and regardless of that...a few thousand miles of street driving undos what you achieved from a proper bedding process anyway.

Anytime you clean the rotors they "need" to be re-bed anyway, so I'm not sure what the point of mentioning thousands of miles of street driving is.

...the process will naturally involve hard pulls and hard stops. So, yes. There is no other way to bring both the rotor and pad surface to the appropriate temps, and cycle those temps appropriately in order to facilitate proper pad transfer.

This involves hard braking from moderate speed to a crawl, and accelerating relatively quickly back up to moderate speed (enough to cool the brakes a little but not too much)...repeatedly. The guides above from Pagid and Brembo outline the specifics well.

The guide from Pagid is for specific track use and Brembo's instructions specifically outline doing *moderate* stops to gently bring up the temp, not anywhere close to hard pulls or hard brakes. This is specifically what I'm contesting.

Street driving actually undos or reverses the desired outcome of bedding in the first place, which is to embed an even layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. Regular, mild use of the brakes at cold temps effectively polish the surface off.

That does not at all happen with normal driving. The only thing that removes material from the rotors is actually cleaning them. Applying more material to the rotor will not remove the material that's on there already.

Sure, it's not super important. But it does require a specific process. Otherwise, the brakes are not bed at all.

I'm sorry but this all sounds like a cop out of trying to not seem like a jerk initially. I made a statement that it was neither important nor did it require incredibly hard stops/pulls like OP seemed to suggest (which is the REAL misinformation that they were reading from somewhere else) and you came in with a super condescending "not even close bro" yet you ended up agreeing with my assessment after everything was said and done. And you still end up saying things like my posts are "categorically untrue" while then ending up agreeing that the process isn't important, which is what I said in the first place.

If you're not going to post anything useful the first time, then don't post.