[S58King]

So i was going to break in the front pads and misread what the instructions were so instead of breaking from 80-30 in .2 miles 8 times i breaked 80-30 pretty quickly then repeated every .2 miles, i then did the second break in which was 80-20 every .2 miles pulling .4 gs. Did I ruin my rotors or pads?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by S58King

So i was going to break in the front pads and misread what the instructions were so instead of breaking from 80-30 in .2 miles 8 times i breaked 80-30 pretty quickly then repeated every .2 miles, i then did the second break in which was 80-20 every .2 miles pulling .4 gs. Did I ruin my rotors or pads?

Check your rotors. If they have heat check marks, you got them too hot. If they are a dull grey color, you are good.

[S58King]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Check your rotors. If they have heat check marks, you got them too hot. If they are a dull grey color, you are good.

Heres a picture hoping its not bad

[HP Autosport]

I don't see any pad smearing or heat check marks. You should be fine. Looks like you put new pads on used rotors? It might take another bed in session to get the pads to uniformly seat on the rotors.

[mike@x-ph.com]

your rotors look fine to me.

[S58King]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

I don't see any pad smearing or heat check marks. You should be fine. Looks like you put new pads on used rotors? It might take another bed in session to get the pads to uniformly seat on the rotors.

What do you recommend I do for another Bed in?

[S58King]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

your rotors look fine to me.

Thank you Mike I was just tripping because in person the blue streaks are more visible then the picture so I didn't know if I ruined them

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by S58King

What do you recommend I do for another Bed in?

Do another round of the recommended bed-in procedure. Don’t forget to get the rotors up to temp with normal driving/braking for 15-20 min before doing the pad bedding. Try not to engage ABS during the pad bedding process.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by S58King

What do you recommend I do for another Bed in?

For a mild/OE/Street performance street pad what you want to do is 60-20 slow down with 80% pedal pressure. Repeat this half a dozen times. Sometimes a few more times depending on the compound(or another bed-in cycle after cooldown). I personally like to do it until I feel the pads fade then go into my cool down drive(as little braking as possible for around 5 minutes on the highway).

[S58King]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

For a mild/OE/Street performance street pad what you want to do is 60-20 slow down with 80% pedal pressure. Repeat this half a dozen times. Sometimes a few more times depending on the compound(or another bed-in cycle after cooldown). I personally like to do it until I feel the pads fade then go into my cool down drive(as little braking as possible for around 5 minutes on the highway).

Awesome ill do another bed in and try your way appreciate all the help man

[S58King]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Do another round of the recommended bed-in procedure. Don’t forget to get the rotors up to temp with normal driving/braking for 15-20 min before doing the pad bedding. Try not to engage ABS during the pad bedding process.

Ebc has 3 bed ins I might do the third phase since I haven't yet which includes 90-20 80% brakes then full speed back up to 90 6 times followed by 20 minutes of coasting.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by S58King

Ebc has 3 bed ins I might do the third phase since I haven't yet which includes 90-20 80% brakes then full speed back up to 90 6 times followed by 20 minutes of coasting.

Six 90-20 mph stops is aggressive for street pads and you’ll get the pads to fade before you reach the sixth stop. This sounds a bedding process for a track pad which the yellow is not.

[S58King]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Six 90-20 mph stops is aggressive for street pads and you’ll get the pads to fade before you reach the sixth stop. This sounds a bedding process for a track pad which the yellow is not.

Well the yellows are considered track pads they were removed because the bed in was so long, blues bed in much faster

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by S58King

Well the yellows are considered track pads they were removed because the bed in was so long, blues bed in much faster

Yellow is a higher performing street pad and is in the elusive dual-duty street-track pad category. I don’t believe there’s a dual-duty pad - it’s either street or track. I don’t know what “light track driving” even means. I have no personal experience with EBC pads. The Ferodo ds2500 is supposed to be like the yellow compound but the ds2500 gets destroyed on track.

[S58King]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Yellow is a higher performing street pad and is in the elusive dual-duty street-track pad category. I don’t believe there’s a dual-duty pad - it’s either street or track. I don’t know what “light track driving” even means. I have no personal experience with EBC pads. The Ferodo ds2500 is supposed to be like the yellow compound but the ds2500 gets destroyed on track.

My shop recommended a different brand to me I forgot the name but i see ALOT of track heads running them

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by S58King

Well the yellows are considered track pads they were removed because the bed in was so long, blues bed in much faster

The yellow is not considered a trackpad. Yellows are for tuned street cars looking for better stopping power and to reduce the squeak.

the blue pads are considered a hybrid that works for street cars and casual track days.

The RP are the trackpads.