[ZPD]

So I have a G87 M2. I have done 9 track days since I got it last August. I will probably do 12-15 a year. The car has had some new mod on it just about every time as it is an evolution. Currently it has MCS 3-way coilovers w/ Vosrshlag Camber plates, 305 Nankang CRS (square), and Gloc R-16/R10 pads. On to your questions-

- Do you track and daily this car? Drive to and on the track only with the occasional spin on the weekend
- How often do you track it? planned 12-15 times a year
- What are you consuming most on the car? (assuming brakes / tires) yes, one set of tires lasted me 7 track days and front brake pads about 3 track days. I have been experimenting with different pads to be fair.
- Anything unexpected break on the car after track use? nothing that wasn't my fault. Although this weekend I heard some clicking/clunking noise on the front right and I wonder if I have a wheel bearing issue.... not sure yet. I need to investigate.
- Bonus: Are you happy or disappointed with the fun you have tracking this car? (why?) I am happy. Lots of good tech and for a base price of around ~$70K I am filling the mirrors and often passing GT4's and C8's. The speed, acceleration, and handling is impressive. My only complaint is there are a lot of nannies, warnings, and obstacles to modify (EDC, specific brake pad replacement procedure that will give you errors if you get the sequence wrong, ECU has to be unlocked in order to do a proper tune, tire reset procedure every time you swap to track tires, alarms on the dash if your cold tire temp is below 27 psi etc)

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by beamlord

Much more experienced and better drivers than me like Misha/Robert said multiple times that while g8x is a great car, it's too heavy and very much subject to increased wear&tear on Nurburgring, barely feasible for a well-financed business, let alone for a private amateur driver.

I wouldn't use this as an argument. From what I recall, they used it in 2022 during the post-pandemic supply chain issues and that caused their problems.

A very significant problem for a taxi-type program would be a reliable supply of replacement parts which didn't exist at that time. In 2021, my car spent a month on two separate occasions at the dealership waiting for simple replacement parts. Two failed parts could prevent the use of the car for most of a season.

The supply of aftermarket parts was also affected meaning the usual companies where you would source brake pads, rotors, etc, do not have any items in stock or if they did, it was at ridiculously high prices. There were some small companies with unproven products that stepped in, but I wouldn't rely on those with heavy duty track use.

If 2021 wasn't bad enough for supply chain issues, it was worse in 2022 for some parts.

As for that weight, it's comparable to the E9x M3s which was used as a taxi. If I'm remembering correctly, the E9x was a stripped out Schirmer while the G8x was not quite as stripped out. Wasn't the F80 even more stripped and built out compared to the E9x? Not sure, but it's probable. Going further with the weight reduction on the G8x would have helped decrease some of the consumable costs, but they didn't. As far as "way too heavy to be a called a track car," the Camaro ZL1 1LE weight more at 3800 lbs and is much quicker around the Nurburgring.

Finally, regular tracks can be much harder on brakes and tires than the Nurburgring. Plenty of tracks where you are losing close to 100 MPH in a braking zone, then 50 MPH or so in subsequent corners only to repeat it a couple of minutes later. Nurburgring has plenty of high speed areas followed by high speed/low braking corners giving plenty of opportunity to cool off the brakes. A novice would overslow in those areas and that's where they wear out their brake pads.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by ZPD

...tire reset procedure every time you swap to track tires...

Is the G87 different from the G82? I have a track set of wheels/tires with TPMS. I don't have to do anything, the car automatically picks up the change and reports the new monitor's settings.

Am I missing something?

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by m4ml

Is the G87 different from the G82? I have a track set of wheels/tires with TPMS. I don't have to do anything, the car automatically picks up the change and reports the new monitor's settings.

Am I missing something?

on the G87 it will pop up with an error/message that new tires have been installed. you have to go through a few screens and select the reset procedure and then drive for a bit (my experience is anywhere from 2 loops around the paddock to get on the highway and drive 5 miles). Nothing bad happens if you don't do this other than the annoying message and the tire data will not be displayed.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by ZPD

on the G87 it will pop up with an error/message that new tires have been installed. you have to go through a few screens and select the reset procedure and then drive for a bit (my experience is anywhere from 2 loops around the paddock to get on the highway and drive 5 miles). Nothing bad happens if you don't do this other than the annoying message and the tire data will not be displayed.

Interesting. Just to confirm that we're comparing apples to apples, when you built your track wheels/tires you had the shop put in new TPMS monitors and code them to your car, correct? The guy that did mine had to go around to each of my wheels on the car and scan them. He then programmed the new TPMS monitors with the scan tool.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by m4ml

Interesting. Just to confirm that we're comparing apples to apples, when you built your track wheels/tires you had the shop put in new TPMS monitors and code them to your car, correct? The guy that did mine had to go around to each of my wheels on the car and scan them. He then programmed the new TPMS monitors with the scan tool.

That might be the difference. I got new OE TPMS sensors but there was no scanning one by one with a scan tool. I will have to look into that.

[Ximian]

"Universal" TPMS sensors may have to be programmed for a certain type of car compared to the vehicle specific ones provided by BMW.

Once you install the new wheels onto the car, you should change the type (summer tires, >100 MPH) in the vehicle menu. This will have the car listen to all the TPMS broadcasts and narrow down which ones belong to your car by driving around.

If you install new wheels without changing the type of tires in the vehicle settings, I'm not sure what will happen on the G8x. On the E9x generation if you remove your TPMS wheels and not go through the reset TPMS procedure, DSC will kick on very restrictively once the TPMS error pops up. Not very fun on track if you're in a high speed corner and the DSC kicks in. Something to keep in mind.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by Ximian

"Universal" TPMS sensors may have to be programmed for a certain type of car compared to the vehicle specific ones provided by BMW.

Once you install the new wheels onto the car, you should change the type (summer tires, >100 MPH) in the vehicle menu. This will have the car listen to all the TPMS broadcasts and narrow down which ones belong to your car by driving around.

If you install new wheels without changing the type of tires in the vehicle settings, I'm not sure what will happen on the G8x. On the E9x generation if you remove your TPMS wheels and not go through the reset TPMS procedure, DSC will kick on very restrictively once the TPMS error pops up. Not very fun on track if you're in a high speed corner and the DSC kicks in. Something to keep in mind.

My entire experience goes like this:

Used my buddy's SUV to transport the new-in-box wheels to the tire shop (tires were already at the shop via tirerack.com). I tell the installer that I want new TPMS modules installed (he did use universal modules) so that when I swap the tires I can get the TPMS readings in the car at the track. He asked where my car was and I explained that I didn't bring it, and instead brought my buddy's SUV. He said that he needed the car so that he could scan each of the wheels that were on the car to configure the new modules to be registered with the car properly.

I went back to my buddy's, grabbed my car, drove back to the shop and the installer then took a tool (like this one) and held it next to each wheel to read the settings (likely a MAC address and private keys or something similar). He explained that each sensor needed to be coded to the car and each tire position on the car had a different "signature". After he scanned each wheel, he said... cool, that's it. They'll be ready soon!

I installed the track set at an autocross event a couple of weeks ago for the first time. There were no errors and the tires properly displayed both pressure and temperature in ID7. The same when changing them back to the street set after the autocross. And the same thing was done at SoW this past weekend without error popups.

I don't know why new OEM sensors would be different in their ability to automatically sync when changed versus the universal sensors (other than the speculation that the above scan/code step wasn't done). One would think the OEM sensors would be the ones that wouldn't need the reset. Now, if the above scan/code steps weren't done, then maybe that is why the error is popping up; because the sensor's "signature" isn't the one the car was expecting at any given wheel. So it says "hey, you changed your wheels, you need to configure them". But if the signature is copied from one wheel to the next, they computer can't tell the difference and therefore is happy to just keep going. This might be something that my installer just "knew to do" because he knew that I'd be swapping back and forth - I told them they were a track set.

In my case there isn't a need to change the type of tire in the settings because both sets are summer tires. One summer set for street and one summer set for track. (unless there is an option for "race", which I don't recall seeing before)

[M4Martin]

Originally Posted by shwayne5

Rear brakes won’t wear so quickly if you turn DSC off and leave MDM on. Camber plates will preserve your front tires a little longer. Brake cooling ducts or at the very least removing brake vent covers will help cool the fronts. Stock rotors are decent but I’d probably switch to a track oriented pad.

I've done 2 track days in my G82 I picked up used about a month ago. After 2 track days my rear brake pads were done. I got lucky and happened to notice before it got bad.

I bought my car used and didn't realize the multiple traction control settings wasn't standard until after I bought the car and mine doesn't have it. Is that what your referring to as MDM?

[shwayne5]

Originally Posted by M4Martin

I've done 2 track days in my G82 I picked up used about a month ago. After 2 track days my rear brake pads were done. I got lucky and happened to notice before it got bad.

I bought my car used and didn't realize the multiple traction control settings wasn't standard until after I bought the car and mine doesn't have it. Is that what your referring to as MDM?

I think the M Driver’s package gives additional adjustability but even without it, you have several levels of MDM. Here’s something I just pulled from another post:

“
MDM Uses M Traction Control Levels 4-7 for slip control based on a number of parameters, PLUS brake interventions based on vehicle yaw control.

For vehicles equipped with the 10 levels M Traction Control, the driver can select Traction Control levels 0 (off) to 10 for slip control, but DSC must be off (no yaw control or brake intervention, only engine torque control).

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by m4ml

My entire experience goes like this:

Used my buddy's SUV to transport the new-in-box wheels to the tire shop (tires were already at the shop via tirerack.com). I tell the installer that I want new TPMS modules installed (he did use universal modules) so that when I swap the tires I can get the TPMS readings in the car at the track. He asked where my car was and I explained that I didn't bring it, and instead brought my buddy's SUV. He said that he needed the car so that he could scan each of the wheels that were on the car to configure the new modules to be registered with the car properly.

I went back to my buddy's, grabbed my car, drove back to the shop and the installer then took a tool (like this one) and held it next to each wheel to read the settings (likely a MAC address and private keys or something similar). He explained that each sensor needed to be coded to the car and each tire position on the car had a different "signature". After he scanned each wheel, he said... cool, that's it. They'll be ready soon!

I installed the track set at an autocross event a couple of weeks ago for the first time. There were no errors and the tires properly displayed both pressure and temperature in ID7. The same when changing them back to the street set after the autocross. And the same thing was done at SoW this past weekend without error popups.

I don't know why new OEM sensors would be different in their ability to automatically sync when changed versus the universal sensors (other than the speculation that the above scan/code step wasn't done). One would think the OEM sensors would be the ones that wouldn't need the reset. Now, if the above scan/code steps weren't done, then maybe that is why the error is popping up; because the sensor's "signature" isn't the one the car was expecting at any given wheel. So it says "hey, you changed your wheels, you need to configure them". But if the signature is copied from one wheel to the next, they computer can't tell the difference and therefore is happy to just keep going. This might be something that my installer just "knew to do" because he knew that I'd be swapping back and forth - I told them they were a track set.

In my case there isn't a need to change the type of tire in the settings because both sets are summer tires. One summer set for street and one summer set for track. (unless there is an option for "race", which I don't recall seeing before)

The universal TPMS sensors could have been programmed to be clones of your existing sensors so they broadcast identical ID information. If you had both sets of wheels next to each other and your car and they had drastically different pressures, it might cycle through in the display showing both. In this case of programmed universal TPMS sensors with the same tires, you don't have do anything for the tire type in the vehicle settings - it should just work.

I have the BMW winter wheel package which comes with OE/vehicle specific sensors. These have their own IDs as they were not cloned from TPMS sensors already on the car. When I switch between the summer and winter wheels, I do change the tire type in the vehicle menu to indicate the car should start identifying new TPMS sensors. On the car, there should be three sensors/receivers so they can be used to triangulate the position for each of the TPMS sensors (FL, FR, RL, RR).

In this case of vehicle specific TPMS sensors broadcasting their own unique IDs, the car should detect a loss of all four TPMS sensors and show an error. I would not expect it to automatically pick up the new sensors. It would also require a change of tire type (and potentially change back to original) to reset the TPMS learned IDs.

I will be switching back to my summer wheels in the next month or so but this time, I'll go for a drive without resetting the TPMS (by changing the tire type in vehicle settings) to see what happens and if DSC becomes more restrictive when the error message is displayed.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by Ximian

The universal TPMS sensors could have been programmed to be clones of your existing sensors so they broadcast identical ID information. If you had both sets of wheels next to each other and your car and they had drastically different pressures, it might cycle through in the display showing both. In this case of programmed universal TPMS sensors with the same tires, you don't have do anything for the tire type in the vehicle settings - it should just work.

I have the BMW winter wheel package which comes with OE/vehicle specific sensors. These have their own IDs as they were not cloned from TPMS sensors already on the car. When I switch between the summer and winter wheels, I do change the tire type in the vehicle menu to indicate the car should start identifying new TPMS sensors. On the car, there should be three sensors/receivers so they can be used to triangulate the position for each of the TPMS sensors (FL, FR, RL, RR).

In this case of vehicle specific TPMS sensors broadcasting their own unique IDs, the car should detect a loss of all four TPMS sensors and show an error. I would not expect it to automatically pick up the new sensors. It would also require a change of tire type (and potentially change back to original) to reset the TPMS learned IDs.

I will be switching back to my summer wheels in the next month or so but this time, I'll go for a drive without resetting the TPMS (by changing the tire type in vehicle settings) to see what happens and if DSC becomes more restrictive when the error message is displayed.

That definitely makes sense. I can see why my installer cloned mine versus a summer/winter set. You would want the car to detect a new set when you change from summer to winter and vice versa so that it throws the error and forces you to take action. Whereas with me, I just want it to work and I don't need to take action.

[lutfy]

Hey folks,

Nice to meet you all virtually.

- Do you track and daily this car? I do drive it somewhat daily and intend to track it 'sometimes'.

- How often do you track it? Maybe 2 weekends a year while I instruct with local clubs/chapters. Just to see what this car is capable of.

- What are you consuming most on the car? (assuming brakes / tires) Likely going to be stock. PS4S tires and have Ultimate Care+

- Anything unexpected break on the car after track use?
- Bonus: Are you happy or disappointed with the fun you have tracking this car? (why?)

Love this vehicle for what it is, drove it at Performance Center and was extremely impressed. I have a dedicated race car but from time to time I do like to just drive to the track with a helmet/cooler/suitcase versus hauling 8 wheels/tires/car/fuel on a trailer.

I'll report back how she does at Summit Point Main soon.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[M4Martin]

Originally Posted by shwayne5

I think the M Driver’s package gives additional adjustability but even without it, you have several levels of MDM. Here’s something I just pulled from another post:

“
MDM Uses M Traction Control Levels 4-7 for slip control based on a number of parameters, PLUS brake interventions based on vehicle yaw control.

For vehicles equipped with the 10 levels M Traction Control, the driver can select Traction Control levels 0 (off) to 10 for slip control, but DSC must be off (no yaw control or brake intervention, only engine torque control).

How do you access the traction control levels without the M Drivers package? Or how can the MDM information without the M drivers package?

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by M4Martin

How do you access the traction control levels without the M Drivers package? Or how can the MDM information without the M drivers package?

When you turn off DSC you should have whatever options are available to you (DSC On, MDM, DSC Off) appear on the console. I'm not sure about RWD M Driver's Package, but if you are xDrive with M Driver's Package, you will also have the option in Setup for switching to 4WD-Sport and 2WD. If you switch to 2WD after turning DSC Off, you will be able to set MDM value from 0-10.

[M4Martin]

Originally Posted by m4ml

When you turn off DSC you should have whatever options are available to you (DSC On, MDM, DSC Off) appear on the console. I'm not sure about RWD M Driver's Package, but if you are xDrive with M Driver's Package, you will also have the option in Setup for switching to 4WD-Sport and 2WD. If you switch to 2WD after turning DSC Off, you will be able to set MDM value from 0-10.

I was a little confused what MDM was. I have an XDrive without the M Drivers Package. I haven't paid much attention to the 2wd option but I don't think I have the option to adjust the traction control levels. My dme is on its way back from Femto right now so I can't check it out for a couple days.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by M4Martin

I was a little confused what MDM was. I have an XDrive without the M Drivers Package. I haven't paid much attention to the 2wd option but I don't think I have the option to adjust the traction control levels. My dme is on its way back from Femto right now so I can't check it out for a couple days.

Here are a couple videos that might help explain for the xDrive:

Part 1:

Part 2:

[Boomer 2019]

DSC on is the equivalent of driving with level 10 of Traction Control. DSC off is the equivalent of driving with level 0 of Traction Control.

If you do not have the M Drive Professional Package then you do not have the ability to access the 10 level Traction Control setup. 0=TC Off 10= Max TC.

You can however access MDM which is the equivalent of level 4-7 of Traction Control. The nannies are somewhat less intrusive but will still activate if things start to go seriously wrong. You are not invincible however. It is explained in your owner's manual.

In order to activate MDM you press and release the DSC button on the console. You will see MDM displayed on the dash. Push it again to turn it off.

[CSBM5]

It's the "M Drive Professional" $900 option with the ten stage traction control:

M Drive Professional is the perfect companion for trips with that extra dose of adrenaline. M Track mode and ten-stage M Traction Control enable tailored drivability. The M Drift Analyzer and the M Laptimer help to further expand your performance by providing a comprehensive overview shown in the instrument cluster or optional Head-up Display.

[ember.m4]

- Do you track and daily this car?
Both.

- How often do you track it?
About a dozen times a year.

- What are you consuming most on the car? (assuming brakes / tires)
Tires for sure, definitely get camber plates or you'll be replacing them all the time. Once you gain some baseline pace, I highly advise looking at track pads. I went through a stock pad in one day at Laguna Seca.

- Anything unexpected break on the car after track use?
Some suspension parts aren't too happy with frequent hard driving. My tie rod boots are pretty shot for example. It's just part of the cost of driving track, so I wouldn't say it's unexpected.

- Bonus: Are you happy or disappointed with the fun you have tracking this car? (why?)
This is a really good car if you want a single car that can hang on the track and still fit a family with luggage. However, it's still nearly 4,000 lbs. It's great for what it is, but it's important to keep expectations realistic.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by ember.m4

- Do you track and daily this car?
Both.

- How often do you track it?
About a dozen times a year.

- What are you consuming most on the car? (assuming brakes / tires)
Tires for sure, definitely get camber plates or you'll be replacing them all the time. Once you gain some baseline pace, I highly advise looking at track pads. I went through a stock pad in one day at Laguna Seca.

- Anything unexpected break on the car after track use?
Some suspension parts aren't too happy with frequent hard driving. My tie rod boots are pretty shot for example. It's just part of the cost of driving track, so I wouldn't say it's unexpected.

- Bonus: Are you happy or disappointed with the fun you have tracking this car? (why?)
This is a really good car if you want a single car that can hang on the track and still fit a family with luggage. However, it's still nearly 4,000 lbs. It's great for what it is, but it's important to keep expectations realistic.

Thank you for sharing. The brake pads you mentioned, were they front or rear (like the others)?

How many miles did you get out of the rod boots?

I will report back after this weekend after my outing with the G87.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[ember.m4]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Thank you for sharing. The brake pads you mentioned, were they front or rear (like the others)?

How many miles did you get out of the rod boots?

I will report back after this weekend after my outing with the G87.

Cheers,

Lutfy

If you're referring to stock pads, the rear pads wore first for me, but the front don't fare that much better. It will also depend heavily on what track you drive. When I drove Buttonwillow (slower track), the pads hold up a lot better than when I drive Laguna Seca (faster track). Repeated heavy braking turn after turn will demolish the stock pads.

I got around 20,000 miles out of the tie rod boots, but I also didn't track the car as much in the first 10,000 miles, so it's a bit hard to figure out what the expected wear would look like based off my data.