[dynamic6er]

Awron CAN-enabled Programable Exhaust Valve Controller

Just finished the DIY install of the Awron CAN Valve Controller and I’m loving this thing. I’m kinda excited to share some review, install, and impressions info with the community. Personally, I think this is the cleanest, most elegant solution to the lame factory partial exhaust valve opening issue.

Here are the factors that qualified the Awron as the best option:
- No separate remote
- Not have to use my phone to control the valve
- Integrate with the OEM Sound Control system (M1/M2 Setting and Exhaust Button)
- Minimize the length and quantity of wires that need to be run
- Integrate with the factory wiring as seamlessly as possible
- Have the ability to tune the valve opening to my preferences
- Basically, have it be as if this was an option BMW offered from the factory

The Awron tickles me in all the right spots when it comes to these requirements. I got it here:

AWRON - CANFlap Exhaust Valve Controller - BMW G8X M2/M3/M4

https://europeanautosource.com/produ...w-g8x-m2-m3-m4

Beyond that, what makes me qualified to take such a strong stance on “the best” valve controller available? Here’s some quick background, I’m not really into bragging but if I’m going to get unsolicited advice I’d rather it at least come from someone with some decent experience and knowledge. To that end, I’m a former BMW Service Advisor and Tech certified in electronics and engines at BMW’s HQ in NJ. Prior to that, I owned a high-performance shop where we built the world's first AWD 350Z and made ~590hp (DynoDynamics) on a stock block 350Z. We also built some of the first piggyback standalone ECU setups similar to what’s used with the Syvecs and Motec ecu packages for the TT Huricons and R8’s. Now I’m a software engineer/tech consultant. TL;DR: knows electronics, has automotive experience both with the BMW brand and high-performance applications.

Here’s the Awron in all its pre-installed glory. I’ll run through a quick overview on what’s included, what it does, how it works, and overall first impressions.







In the box comes the Awron CAN Bus Valve Controller, the pre-terminated harness, some fuses, plugs, terminals and a USB stick with install instructions, software, and a run guide for the software.

First impressions: This thing is STOUT. Its an anodized or powder-coated all-aluminum body with high-quality TE-style (BMW OE supplier) connectors. The machining on the control box is of a very high quality, as is the coating and even the USB connector. In the world of aftermarket products, that speaks volumes for itself and gives confidence that the rest of the install and use is going to go well. In my experience, if the small things are paid attention to on something that isn’t important to the actual function of the product like the casing then that mindset will carry into everything else about it.

The harness is there to supply power, ground, CAN High and Low signals, emulate the valves to keep the ECU happy, and a set of PWM outputs to actually control the valves.

So yeah, it controls the exhaust valves, but it’s more than that. Its software programable to be able to determine under what conditions (RPM and Throttle Position) the valves should open or close. It also has a cool stealth mode (which I love). The setup is programed from a PC and its pretty straight forward. OPEN with a start RPM and end RPM. CLOSE with the same and a TPS percentage setting below which the valves will not open.



What’s the friken stealth mode? Well for me its perfect. I live next to a golf course and in the type of neighborhood, you’d expect to be next to a golf course. I have DP’s and the first resonator removed so the ol’ gal is a bit on the loud side, even with the valves “closed” using the OEM button (they’re not fully “closed”). So when I roll into the subdivision I hold the M1 and M2 buttons and the valves go into full closed. It’s almost back to stock volume levels. It stays on after I turn the car off so it's ready to go when I leave. I can see this being so useful in places where cops care about exhaust volumes or try to profile using exhaust volumes (I live in Texas so that’s not actually a thing here, y’alls states are weird). Also, it does allow the valves to open after 40mph so there isn't excess backpressure building up.

The install was straightforward. I’ll add more to this post showing my specific setup and some tips and tricks because I get a bit extra(ordinary) with wires and how I want things run. I’m a bit particular.

Feel free to ping me or drop a comment with any questions or if you’d like me to expound on anything I’ve mentioned.

I'll be adding the install portion soon check back in a few days.

Also I got the kit from EAS. I did see it on Evolve for less but I figure after shipping and import duties it would end up being the same if not more and take time to get here, plus Tom at EAS has provided great support.



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BIG INSTALL UPDATE: 3/9/24

I may turn this into a PDF if people are interested since I diverge slightly and provide a little more/different detail from the Awron instructions.

The Awron instructions are decent but I’ll add some extra details I found to help make your install go smoother. I’d rate this from a 3 to 5 out of 10 for install difficulty (the 3-5 range depends on which route you decide to take with the wiring into the valves portion of the install). I’ll also include detailed close-up photos and links to some extra items I picked up to add to the OEM+ type of install I prefer.

Overview of the install:

- Loop into the OEM CAN lines so the Awron can get the information it needs (direct from the car)
- Supply +12v switched power
- Supply a -Ground
- Splice into the OEM control wires to the valves (more on this later)

75% of this is done in the passenger-side footwell kick panel. The last item is done at the ECU in the engine bay (unless you get the newly released harness that adds PnP for the valve wire connection. Personally, I’d still go with the non-PnP version (details in my install steps), but that may not be the best solution for everyone. Unless you're comfortable with wiring and terminating/crimping terminals/pins then the PnP is the way to go.

Prep for install
1. Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery (Important: place (or tie) a rag around the latch or cover it with the cover panel so if someone tries to close the trunk they can’t and you aren’t going to get locked out since the latch needs power to operate. Ask me how I know)
2. Remove passenger side kick plate*
*clips may break when removing panel or when removing clips for reinstall
BMW: 51-47-7-447-096









3. Remove glovebox undertray





4. Remove kick panel in the footwell**
**clips will most likely break. Part numbers below.
BMW 07-14-7-142-593





6. Peel the carpet back









7. Disconnect and detach the power/ground connector and pop the protection shield off the control module









8. Disconnect the #8 Connector









9. Use two small screwdrivers to release the clips at the end of the connector housing so you can slide the connectors out in order to access the terminals







10. Press in the small locking tab on the metal terminal lightly while lightly pulling on the wire to release it from the connector, there are two detents. Press lightly each time.











11. Insert the terminals into the loose connector body provided by Awron



12. Insert the Awron wires into the factory connectors



13. Reinsert the connectors into the connector body


14. Insert and lock the connector back into the module

15. Now it’s time to get power. You can use the fuse tap EAS includes or you can make life more difficult like me (and leverage the OEM setup).

16. Use two screw driver to GENTLY hold the retaining clips apart holding the fuse box





17. Pull its down slightly and towards yourself while twisting clockwise to release it from the slot that tje locating tab on the back of the fuse box is in

18. Flip it over and locate an empty fuse slot as shown in the diagram below



19. Flip the small blue latch to unlock the back of the fuse block so the power wire can be installed







20. Strip back the installation and crimp the appropriate terminal onto the purple wire (the loose fuse will fit into its female end snugly) [See the Ground wire from Step 24]

21. Take the terminal on the purple wire and insert into the slot you’ve chosen. I used 48. You can select any from the options in green that are switched ignition (#46 through #53)





22. Push the fuse into the slot you just populated with the purple wire
23. Grab the top of the carpet against the firewall and pull it towards you and then down. Its a tight fit and you’ll need to work it through a little but this will expose the firewall and some important connectors
24. Take the brown ground wire, strip back a little insulation, and crimp the other terminal onto it (crimpers like these will help)












25. Remove the 10mm nut from the ground back and pull it off the stud
26. Pull the small tabs up to remove the plastic cover from the ground block
27. Slide the terminal on the brown wire onto on open slot on the ground block
28. Reinstall plastic cover and secure back on the stud
29. Pop the hood and remove the rear strut tower brace (15mm nuts)
30. Remove the cowl covers from the left and right side of the engine bay
31. On the passenger side remove the white wire management bracket from the stud on the firewall. Just wiggle it and rock it back and forth while pulling
32. Pull the insulation down slightly and expose the firewall more completely
33. Remove the plastic plug from the firewall and retain for later use
34. Gently push a stiff but flexible rod straight down vertically into the hole covered by the plug (use a straightened metal hanger or something similar)
35. In the passenger footwell you should see that rod against the firewall. Tape the two remaining green and pink wires to the rod
36. Gently pull the wires through to the exterior
37. Take the firewall plug and drill two 11/64” holes in it
38. Pass the green and pink wires through the holes, slide the plug down to the firewall and check the slack inside the cabin. Make sure there’s enough for the plug to reach so you can place the Awron box above the control module or somewhere thereabouts
39. Mobile Stereo Installer Trick: Please the ends of the green and pink wires into the chuck of a drill and tighen the chuck so they’ll stay in the jaws
40. Pull the wires lightly so there’s tension on them but not enough to pull the slack out from the cabin
41. Using low power/speed let the drill twist the wires together while maintaining the light tension. You need to keep this until you get the wires taped up. An extra set of hands can help at this point to just hold the drill and some tension
42. Start at the base of where the wires exit the firewall, after the blanking plug and wrap the electrical tape over them. By putting the tape at a 45 deg angle you can “walk” up the wire using minimal tape while getting the necessary holding to secure the twist. Awron nicely double insulated the wires so this isn’t an absolute necessity, more just an organization and cleanliness tip
43. Then use your fishing rod to pull the wire across to the drivers side
44. Follow the factory wires to run the twisted pair out into the engine bay
45. Now here’s where I diverge from the official installation instructions. If you are uncomfortable with the following steps (where it goes from a 3 to a 5 in difficulty) then stick with the official method or get the fill PnP harness option. Personally I prefer to not cut my factory harness and I prefer not to run wires through the car and then out the underside of the car potentially exposing the interior to the elements and having a rats nest throughout the car and have to pull a bunch of extra interior components
46. Remove plug 1 which is closest to the front of the car. The Awron instructions are a little dense to read because BMW literature flips the orientation of the ECI relative to its installed location to indicate the connector numbers (classic German overcomplicating things)
47. Peel back a large section of the Tessa tape and free the wires to be able to separate
48. Press the tabs on the harness cover on the back of the ECU connector and slide it up and off the connector. Now the wires leading into the ECU plug will be exposed
49. Place a rag under the connector and your work area to catch anything that may fall accidentally to prevent it from being lost in the abyss of the engine bay
50. Take a flat head screwdriver and depress the 2 small latches on the back of the connector and a pick to provide some leverage against the connector the unseat the cover slightly. Then repeat this on the other side.
51. Slowly continue pulling the backing plate up as the wires slide through
52. Tape the back of the connector as shown once you’ve exposed enough of the wires
53. Pull the grommet back all the way
54. On the terminal side of the connector wedge a screwdriver under the lock tabs and lever them out
1. Now you can pull the terminals from the harness
2. Find Pin 6. The rows have beginning and ending numbers of the terminals molded into the plastic at each end of the row
3. Using a pick while LIGHTLY pressing the latch down gently pull the back of the wire. This will release it from the first catch.
4. Repeat for the second catch. The wire will be release from the connector and now it can be slid through the grommet and backing plate
5. Insert this into the TE MATENet Female Insert Module
55. Repeat Step 54 for Pin 23

[Resoelg]

Hi. Thanks for the initial write up on this Awron valve controller. I want to add this PnP version to my '24 G87 M2 with stock exhaust. It's way too tame as is and I'm not ready to cut exhaust or add cat back yet. Doing more research to be sure on install and came upon your detailed thread.
Have you run into any issues, gremlins and do you have any further install info or pics? I know your set up is somewhat different than G87 but appreciate any help before I dive into this.
Thank you Sir,
GL

[Needsdecaf]

Awesome writeup, thanks! This is definitely on my short list (after I get through the pile of parts I have sitting in my office, lol) Did you do the PNP install into the valve controllers or did you go into the ECU connection in the engine bay? By your pictures above 'm thinking it's the engine bay...

Looking forward to more thoughts, install pics and also if you could give us some of your settings parameters and thoughts behind them, I'd appreciate it.

[dtronics]

Thanks man! I appreciate you taking the time to do this. I'm looking forward to the updates.

[KevinGS]

Thank you for sharing. I wish the Awron controller tickled ME in all the right places, but not quite yet. With you being such a big fan, maybe you can push me over the edge.

You said that these are the factors that qualified the Awron as the best option:
- No separate remote
For some of the others, you can control the valve through the Garage Door overhead buttons, so no remote needed.

- Not have to use my phone to control the valve
Yes, I wouldn't like this either
- Integrate with the OEM Sound Control system (M1/M2 Setting and Exhaust Button)
So for a non-Awron controller, if you hit the exhaust button, does the valve only open part way (the standard M setting - like 80% open), and then I'd have to hit the garage door button to open it all the way to 100%? So a two-step process?
- Minimize the length and quantity of wires that need to be run
Yes, but merely a nice-to-have.
- Integrate with the factory wiring as seamlessly as possible
Yes, another nice-to-have.
- Have the ability to tune the valve opening to my preferences
I either want it fully open, or fully closed...there's no need for partial settings, right? So what's the benefit of this?
- Basically, have it be as if this was an option BMW offered from the factory
Yes, a nice-to-have, but again, all most of us need is a way to open it to 100% seamlessly, and preferably without the need for the remote or the phone

Stealth mode
Couldn't you just hit the exhaust button and it would close the valve and go into "quiet mode"? Basically, isn't the exhaust button on the console still an equivalent Stealth Mode? That's how I use it now anyway.

I'm missing some of the inherent benefits of the Awron controller that matter, since it costs more and takes a bit more time to install. Yes, it may be a "cleaner" install, but only and your mechanic are going to see that.

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by KevinGS

So for a non-Awron controller, if you hit the exhaust button, does the valve only open part way (the standard M setting - like 80% open), and then I'd have to hit the garage door button to open it all the way to 100%? So a two-step process?

That depends on the controller and your desired configuration. With the SST, for example, you can set a "startup mode" which can be one of the 4 functions on the remote. Fully open, fully closed, 50% open, or OEM control (with Sport(+) modes on the car). I have mine set to OEM control by default, so if I want them fully open, I'd have to hit the fully open button. However *both* steps are not "required" per se, as fully open will be fully open in all situations. But if you want it to be fully open and M1 settings, for example, you'd need to do both options (if you default to OEM control).

Originally Posted by KevinGS

I either want it fully open, or fully closed...there's no need for partial settings, right? So what's the benefit of this?

The benefit is that granular control and direct integration into the M1/M2 buttons. If you only want fully open or closed, then there's no point to this and you'd be fine with a cheaper controller.

Originally Posted by KevinGS

Couldn't you just hit the exhaust button and it would close the valve and go into "quiet mode"? Basically, isn't the exhaust button on the console still an equivalent Stealth Mode? That's how I use it now anyway.

The exhaust button, with ASD decoded, only controls the burbles and engine rev timings to accentuate them. Sport(+) mode on the Engine is the only thing that controls the flaps on the exhaust, and therefore, the sound (without a valve controller).

With any valve controller, if you set it to fully close and then go into Comfort mode, that's the same thing as "Stealth Mode," which is just advertising a quick way to get into that specific setup apart from manually closing valves and going into Comfort as you'd do in any other situation.

Originally Posted by KevinGS

I'm missing some of the inherent benefits of the Awron controller that matter, since it costs more and takes a bit more time to install. Yes, it may be a "cleaner" install, but only and your mechanic are going to see that.

Like mentioned, the main benefit here is the more integrated and granular control for opening the valves than other solutions provide. It allows you to fine-tune things like when the valves open and what RPMs, throttle input, etc, while integrating nicely into the normal M1/M2 button modes.

I personally don't need any of that, so I stuck with the SST. Besides the fact it's cheaper and easier to install, it gives me all the functionality I'd need and care about, but this is definitely better if you want more granular and precise control over the valve opening setup/system.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for sharing your feedback OP

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Like mentioned, the main benefit here is the more integrated and granular control for opening the valves than other solutions provide. It allows you to fine-tune things like when the valves open and what RPMs, throttle input, etc, while integrating nicely into the normal M1/M2 button modes.

I personally don't need any of that, so I stuck with the SST. Besides the fact it's cheaper and easier to install, it gives me all the functionality I'd need and care about, but this is definitely better if you want more granular and precise control over the valve opening setup/system.

i think that's sums it up for most people, if your goal is to open and close the valve you can get that done with a lower cost SST controller.

If you want more fine-tuning, this controller is the better option

Like you, the SST is more than enough for what im looking for.

[KevinGS]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

That depends on the controller and your desired configuration. With the SST, for example, you can set a "startup mode" which can be one of the 4 functions on the remote. Fully open, fully closed, 50% open, or OEM control (with Sport(+) modes on the car). I have mine set to OEM control by default, so if I want them fully open, I'd have to hit the fully open button. However *both* steps are not "required" per se, as fully open will be fully open in all situations. But if you want it to be fully open and M1 settings, for example, you'd need to do both options (if you default to OEM control).

Thanks for trying to explain this, but I'm still a little confused.

The console exhaust button will start the car fully closed. So the only option I'd want would be to open the valves to 100% for a max cold start volume (as opposed to the factory valves opened to only like 80%). MAYBE if you have a really loud exhaust (or a straight pipe), then a 50% mode may be a benefit...otherwise most of us will want it fully open or fully closed at start.

And yes, if I get a valve controller, for my M1 and M2 settings, I'd want the valves fully opened. So with SST or Dahler, I wonder if there's the ability to connect the M1 and M2 settings to the 100% open valve setting (without having to hit a 2nd button on the remote or on the garage door overhead button to open fully to 100%).

The benefit is that granular control and direct integration into the M1/M2 buttons. If you only want fully open or closed, then there's no point to this and you'd be fine with a cheaper controller.

The exhaust button, with ASD decoded, only controls the burbles and engine rev timings to accentuate them. Sport(+) mode on the Engine is the only thing that controls the flaps on the exhaust, and therefore, the sound (without a valve controller).

This is interesting. When I hit the exhaust button on the console, I get burbles and it gets louder (so the valves open to like 80%). Or maybe I don't really have ASD coded off at all (which could be the case), and the added sound is not the valves being open to the stock BMW 80%-ish level, it's all just ASD.

Having said that, when I hit the M1/M2 buttons which are both programmed to Sport Plus, the sound doesn't get any louder than me simply hitting the lower console's exhaust button. It all sounds the same. Hmmm...

With any valve controller, if you set it to fully close and then go into Comfort mode, that's the same thing as "Stealth Mode," which is just advertising a quick way to get into that specific setup apart from manually closing valves and going into Comfort as you'd do in any other situation.

Ah, ok, makes sense

Like mentioned, the main benefit here is the more integrated and granular control for opening the valves than other solutions provide. It allows you to fine-tune things like when the valves open and what RPMs, throttle input, etc, while integrating nicely into the normal M1/M2 button modes.

Yeah, I can't think of any situation where I want my valves "partially opened", or tied to throttle input, or the RPM. I either want them fully open or fully closed (loud or quiet). Partially loud/open at some lower RPM or throttle input, I don't see the need for that in my situation.

I personally don't need any of that, so I stuck with the SST. Besides the fact it's cheaper and easier to install, it gives me all the functionality I'd need and care about, but this is definitely better if you want more granular and precise control over the valve opening setup/system.

Thanks, Berz, I think all I need is SST or Dahler as well, but the one thing I want to know is:

Once I set up either of the above (SST/Dahler) through the garage door console button, can I program my M1/M2 buttons with Sport Plus to open the valves at 100% without having to hit the garage door overhead console button? Or would I have to hit 2 buttons for max performance AND max loudness: M1/M2 AND the garage door console button?

Hec, if the SST/Dahler can be programmed to have the valves open to 100% with the Sport Plus setting (through M1/M2), then I may not even have the need to program it through the garage door overhead console button (but I guess I still will, as a "nice-to-have").

And using SST/Dahler, the lower console exhaust button would then only open the valve to the factory position, NOT to the full 100%. This would explain a benefit for me with the Awron...as this "feature" would shift to the garage door overhead console button (not as seamless an integration) with SST/Dahler.

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by KevinGS

Thanks for trying to explain this, but I'm still a little confused.

The console exhaust button will start the car fully closed. So the only option I'd want would be to open the valves to 100% for a max cold start volume (as opposed to the factory valves opened to only like 80%). MAYBE if you have a really loud exhaust (or a straight pipe), then a 50% mode may be a benefit...otherwise most of us will want it fully open or fully closed at start.

And yes, if I get a valve controller, for my M1 and M2 settings, I'd want the valves fully opened. So with SST or Dahler, I wonder if there's the ability to connect the M1 and M2 settings to the 100% open valve setting (without having to hit a 2nd button on the remote or on the garage door overhead button to open fully to 100%).

Unfortunately, there is not. These are just dumb devices to actuate a flap, there's no more processing going on. For that, you'd want the AWRON.

Originally Posted by KevinGS

This is interesting. When I hit the exhaust button on the console, I get burbles and it gets louder (so the valves open to like 80%). Or maybe I don't really have ASD coded off at all (which could be the case), and the added sound is not the valves being open to the stock BMW 80%-ish level, it's all just ASD.

Having said that, when I hit the M1/M2 buttons which are both programmed to Sport Plus, the sound doesn't get any louder than me simply hitting the lower console's exhaust button. It all sounds the same. Hmmm...

You probably don't have ASD fully decoded, then. There's an "activation code" that you need to deactivate in the coding app apart from just "ASD = Off" See the ASD decoding threads for more info.

Originally Posted by KevinGS

Thanks, Berz, I think all I need is SST or Dahler as well, but the one thing I want to know is:

Once I set up either of the above (SST/Dahler) through the garage door console button, can I program my M1/M2 buttons with Sport Plus to open the valves at 100% without having to hit the garage door overhead console button? Or would I have to hit 2 buttons for max performance AND max loudness: M1/M2 AND the garage door console button?

Hec, if the SST/Dahler can be programmed to have the valves open to 100% with the Sport Plus setting (through M1/M2), then I may not even have the need to program it through the garage door overhead console button (but I guess I still will, as a "nice-to-have").

And using SST/Dahler, the lower console exhaust button would then only open the valve to the factory position, NOT to the full 100%. This would explain a benefit for me with the Awron...as this "feature" would shift to the garage door overhead console button (not as seamless an integration) with SST/Dahler.

The SST is only controllable via a remote signal, either from the one it comes with or the homelink button. M1/M2 cannot control it. It'd be M1/M2 then A on the remote (or homelink button) to get max loudness.

As an aside, if you're considering the SST or Dahler, there's zero reason to get the Dahler as it does the exact same thing as the SST but for 2.5-3x the price.

As another aside, the factory muffler is straight-piped with the valves fully open

[dynamic6er]

Apologies for the delayed response. Big install update.

[dynamic6er]

Originally Posted by Resoelg

Hi. Thanks for the initial write up on this Awron valve controller. I want to add this PnP version to my '24 G87 M2 with stock exhaust. It's way too tame as is and I'm not ready to cut exhaust or add cat back yet. Doing more research to be sure on install and came upon your detailed thread.
Have you run into any issues, gremlins and do you have any further install info or pics? I know your set up is somewhat different than G87 but appreciate any help before I dive into this.
Thank you Sir,
GL

Nice, yeah I love this thing. There are a couple of things if you get the non-pnp harness that require some additional parts $20 and some patience but its all doable (I'll be adding some additional details soon as part of the install progress). G87 should be pretty similiar the panels and routing locations might just be a little different. Possibly connectors, but I wouldn't be suprised if they're exactly the same.

[dynamic6er]

Originally Posted by Needsdecaf

Awesome writeup, thanks! This is definitely on my short list (after I get through the pile of parts I have sitting in my office, lol) Did you do the PNP install into the valve controllers or did you go into the ECU connection in the engine bay? By your pictures above 'm thinking it's the engine bay...

Looking forward to more thoughts, install pics and also if you could give us some of your settings parameters and thoughts behind them, I'd appreciate it.

I went with the ECU connection in the engine bay but I don't like to cut the harness so I located the OEM TE terminals, pins, and housing to be able to repin the ECU connector and be able to return to stock 100% if needed. I'll share those soon in the install I'm adding to the original post.

[dynamic6er]

Originally Posted by KevinGS

Thank you for sharing. I wish the Awron controller tickled ME in all the right places, but not quite yet. With you being such a big fan, maybe you can push me over the edge.

Letttsssgooooo!

You said that these are the factors that qualified the Awron as the best option:
- No separate remote
For some of the others, you can control the valve through the Garage Door overhead buttons, so no remote needed.


Right on I didn't think about that, but that's a cool solution unless you're in a gated community and a two or more door garage

- Not have to use my phone to control the valve
Yes, I wouldn't like this either
- Integrate with the OEM Sound Control system (M1/M2 Setting and Exhaust Button)
So for a non-Awron controller, if you hit the exhaust button, does the valve only open part way (the standard M setting - like 80% open), and then I'd have to hit the garage door button to open it all the way to 100%? So a two-step process?

Sorry you lost be a little but I think you're asking about the stock sound button? If that's the case then no, you just hit that and the AWRON takes over.

- Minimize the length and quantity of wires that need to be run
Yes, but merely a nice-to-have.
- Integrate with the factory wiring as seamlessly as possible
Yes, another nice-to-have.
- Have the ability to tune the valve opening to my preferences
I either want it fully open, or fully closed...there's no need for partial settings, right? So what's the benefit of this?

Mostly a sound tuning preference or situational. If you have an exhaust that is raspy at a specifc RPM you can close the valves down to tame that. Or if you want to cruise with the valve closed at low throttle to reduce drone on the highway but want it to open up when you get on it (or to be a sleeper)

- Basically, have it be as if this was an option BMW offered from the factory
Yes, a nice-to-have, but again, all most of us need is a way to open it to 100% seamlessly, and preferably without the need for the remote or the phone




Stealth mode
Couldn't you just hit the exhaust button and it would close the valve and go into "quiet mode"? Basically, isn't the exhaust button on the console still an equivalent Stealth Mode? That's how I use it now anyway.

The Stealth mode is 100% closed all the time up to 50 MPG, regardless of throttle position, etc. The OEM "closed" will still open slightly

I'm missing some of the inherent benefits of the Awron controller that matter, since it costs more and takes a bit more time to install. Yes, it may be a "cleaner" install, but only and your mechanic are going to see that.

Agreed, but I'm also particular in how I want things done. I guess I didn't pay a premium for a highly engineered vehicle to then throw "whatever" works into it. Everything I do to my lil devil has a calculus incorporated

notes in the quotes

[tom @ eas]

Really appreciate the detailed write-up and attention to detail on the steps and pictures, glad you're enjoying the kit and it's features.

[ryanm3]

looks great, mike@x-ph.com Will you import some to the states?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by ryanm3

looks great, mike@x-ph.com Will you import some to the states?

We have Awron kits in stock, ready to ship!

[ryanm3]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

We have Awron kits in stock, ready to ship!

I saw yours but it is almost 100 USD more expensive than Evolve...

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by ryanm3

I saw yours but it is almost 100 USD more expensive than Evolve...

Not factoring in a lot of things. Sending PM as not to derail the thread.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ryanm3

looks great, mike@x-ph.com Will you import some to the states?

If there is enough demand, i will definitely work on offering it

[dynamic6er]

Originally Posted by ryanm3

I saw yours but it is almost 100 USD more expensive than Evolve...

Yeah I saw that too, but I figure with shipping and import duties it would end up being similar. Plus you can't beat EAS and tom @ eas stateside support!