[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by nardobenz

I just double checked. All fully - as far as it’ll go. I can feel a molecule under the tire.

When looking upward from underneath the strut/shock at its bottom, you’re trying to rotate the adjuster counter-clockwise, correct? Did you check all four?

Same thing with rebound - while looking downward from above the strut/shock at its top, you are rotating the adjuster counter-clockwise? Did you check all four?

In both cases, you’re trying to “unscrew” (righty tighty, lefty loosey) the adjuster.

[nardobenz]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

When looking upward from underneath the strut/shock at its bottom, you’re trying to rotate the adjuster counter-clockwise, correct? Did you check all four?

Same thing with rebound - while looking downward from above the strut/shock at its top, you are rotating the adjuster counter-clockwise? Did you check all four?

In both cases, you’re trying to “unscrew” (righty tighty, lefty loosey) the adjuster.

Yes, correct. The change from full open to full closed is so negligible I’m questioning why there is so much “adjustment”.

[nardobenz]

It feels like I’m driving a skate board down the road.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by nardobenz

Yes, correct.

There’s something that’s being overlooked. It should be impossible for you to have the ride characteristics you’re describing with R and C damping set to their minimum values(0 clicks, fully open). I wonder if the needle valve(s) were damaged from running them with the dials set at their hard stops instead of at the first “click”. Although, if the needle valve(s) were damaged/failed while attempting to open up the shim valves, how would the dampers by performing as if the valve stacks are fully closed (max damping)?

While researching the v3s I found out something interesting about them and I’m trying to confirm this with a second source. It’s the independent R and C damping adjustments control LSC only and LSR only, and HSR and HSC are controlled by two high-speed blow-off valves, one for rebound and one for compression.

[nardobenz]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

There’s something that’s being overlooked. It should be impossible for you to have the ride characteristics you’re describing with R and C damping set to their minimum values(0 clicks, fully open). I wonder if the needle valve(s) were damaged from running them with the dials set at their hard stops instead of at the first “click”. Although, if the needle valve(s) were damaged/failed while attempting to open up the shim valves, how would the dampers by performing as if the valve stacks are fully closed (max damping)?

While researching the v3s I found out something interesting about them and I’m trying to confirm this with a second source. It’s the independent R and C damping adjustments control LSC only and LSR only, and HSR and HSC are controlled by two high-speed blow-off valves, one for rebound and one for compression.

If you snuck into my garage and changed my coils from full open to full closed without my knowledge I wouldn’t have even noticed the difference.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by nardobenz

If you snuck into my garage and changed my coils from full open to full closed without my knowledge I wouldn’t have even noticed the difference.

I’d do it if I knew it would’ve worked

I was going to suggest sending the dampers to an authorized KW service shop because the v3s have an unlimited mileage warranty but then I recalled that kw themselves are the only authorized service shop. iirc, they’re in CA. Have the v3s always performed this way or was there a time when their ride quality was decent?

[nardobenz]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

I’d do it if I knew it would’ve worked

I was going to suggest sending the dampers to an authorized KW service shop because the v3s have an unlimited mileage warranty but then I recalled that kw themselves are the only authorized service shop. iirc, they’re in CA. Have the v3s always performed this way or was there a time when their ride quality was decent?

They’re brand new and have been on the car around 3k miles, I highly doubt there is something wrong with them. They have never had good ride quality.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by nardobenz

They’re brand new and have been on the car around 3k miles, I highly doubt there is something wrong with them. They have never had good ride quality.

New struts/dampers can go bad with even fewer miles without any externality visual signs. There is no properly functioning v3 damper(s) that can function the way you’re describing with R and C damping both set to “zero” clicks (fully open valving, minimum damping). Something is not right and, based on your descriptions, the suspension is acting as if it's way overdamped at all piston speeds. However, when R & C damping are both set to maximum damping the ride will be extremely bouncy. Dampers are set with a R bias; for example, at a piston speed of 7 in/s, the R damping force is 600 lbf and the C damping force is 400 lbf. This bias gets worse with increased damping (# of clicks) and increasing piston velocity. So on max R and C settings there’s a large unbalanced R-C forces which can cause the suspension to excessively bounce and feel like it’s uncontrolled (light/no damping).

If your R and C valves are set at min damping (fully open) and your suspension is acting like you have steel shafts, instead of steel springs, at the four corners of the car, there’s a problem with the dampers. Perhaps the dampers came set fully stiff (fully closed) and the needle valves are not opening up the valving with each click. However, this is unlikely to have happened and to have bad needle valves in all four dampers is even less likely to happen. There should be a noticeable change in suspension performance from max to min damping as well as all damping values in between.

[nardobenz]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

New struts/dampers can go bad with even fewer miles without any externality visual signs. There is no properly functioning v3 damper(s) that can function the way you’re describing with R and C damping both set to “zero” clicks (fully open valving, minimum damping). Something is not right and, based on your descriptions, the suspension is acting as if it's way overdamped at all piston speeds. However, when R & C damping are both set to maximum damping the ride will be extremely bouncy. Dampers are set with a R bias; for example, at a piston speed of 7 in/s, the R damping force is 600 lbf and the C damping force is 400 lbf. This bias gets worse with increased damping (# of clicks) and increasing piston velocity. So on max R and C settings there’s a large unbalanced R-C forces which can cause the suspension to excessively bounce and feel like it’s uncontrolled (light/no damping).

If your R and C valves are set at min damping (fully open) and your suspension is acting like you have steel shafts, instead of steel springs, at the four corners of the car, there’s a problem with the dampers. Perhaps the dampers came set fully stiff (fully closed) and the needle valves are not opening up the valving with each click. However, this is unlikely to have happened and to have bad needle valves in all four dampers is even less likely to happen. There should be a noticeable change in suspension performance from max to min damping as well as all damping values in between.

I appreciate your help. I’ll schedule an appointment with the shop to get them looked at.

[nardobenz]

Originally Posted by nardobenz

They’re brand new and have been on the car around 3k miles, I highly doubt there is something wrong with them. They have never had good ride quality.

I noticed this wording in the setup manual.