[UN-Blank]

Ok. Intake arrived and I have a little time so tomorrow may be the day. I have built this up in my head to be nearly impossible. so hopefully its easier than that...

One question I havent seen addressed much is that after instal set up.

Anyone have instructions on what to do AFTER the JB4 is hooked up and the car is back together?

[McLaren720s]

Can anyone tell me what the OBDII cable/connector is for? I thought you just hook up JB4 connectors to engine sensors and that's it.
I want to make sure I don't need to poke holes somewhere and run cables through the car.

[retroviol3t]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Can anyone tell me what the OBDII cable/connector is for? I thought you just hook up JB4 connectors to engine sensors and that's it.
I want to make sure I don't need to poke holes somewhere and run cables through the car.

JB4 comes in two configurations essentially... you can connect it to your car in a "stage 1" kind of way in which you connect to the same 3 sensors you would connect RaceChip.

Then the full installation with data logging, etc. would require connection to OBD. Someone can elaborate on what the full install nets you over a partial install.. I believe you're limited on maps to use as well but I'm speculating.

[yousefnjr]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Can anyone tell me what the OBDII cable/connector is for? I thought you just hook up JB4 connectors to engine sensors and that's it.
I want to make sure I don't need to poke holes somewhere and run cables through the car.

There’s a hole in the firewall to the side of the brake fluid reservoir. On my car it was covered with a round, black vinyl sticker. Easy to route the cable through there. In the cabin, there is a plastic panel above the pedals that’s held on by 2 screws (torx iirc). You can reach your cable from back there and plug it in. Very simple to do.

[AKSteve]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Can anyone tell me what the OBDII cable/connector is for? I thought you just hook up JB4 connectors to engine sensors and that's it.
I want to make sure I don't need to poke holes somewhere and run cables through the car.

On my last Porsche, the higher level maps would only work with the OBDII cable connected. And it would spit you into Map 0 if any engine issues were detected while driving. Is this also the case with a JB4 on an M3/4?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

On my last Porsche, the higher level maps would only work with the OBDII cable connected. And it would spit you into Map 0 if any engine issues were detected while driving. Is this also the case with a JB4 on an M3/4?

without the OBD connection, you only get map 1

[AKSteve]

What's the highest map for 95 octane? I worked my way up to map 3 and the car is just screaming fast (I also have high flow downpipes and a cold-air intake). I was going to try to do some 0-60 runs tomorrow and was wondering if going up to map 4 would be too aggressive for this octane level.

[Froz3n_M]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

What's the highest map for 95 octane? I worked my way up to map 3 and the car is just screaming fast (I also have high flow downpipes and a cold-air intake). I was going to try to do some 0-60 runs tomorrow and was wondering if going up to map 4 would be too aggressive for this octane level.

Some higher maps require some E blend, like E30 for best results and preventing knock, amongst other issues.

[AKSteve]

Originally Posted by Froz3n_M

Some higher maps require some E blend, like E30 for best results and preventing knock, amongst other issues.

Wouldn't there be an equivalent octane though? I have some octane booster without MMT and I'm trying to work out the best setup. 2oz of booster per gallon of gas gets me up to 95 octane.

They don't sell any E30 or E-blended gasoline up here in Alaska and I don't quite understand how it all works. Someone did recommend to me that the best way increase octane would be to buy a 55 gallon drum of ethanol and bring enough to the gas station with me every time I fill up to create whatever mix I want. I'm kind of reluctant to buy a whole drum of ethanol though.

[Froz3n_M]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

Wouldn't there be an equivalent octane though? I have some octane booster without MMT and I'm trying to work out the best setup. 2oz of booster per gallon of gas gets me up to 95 octane.

They don't sell any E30 or E-blended gasoline up here in Alaska and I don't quite understand how it all works. Someone did recommend to me that the best way increase octane would be to buy a 55 gallon drum of ethanol and bring enough to the gas station with me every time I fill up to create whatever mix I want. I'm kind of reluctant to buy a whole drum of ethanol though.

Id be hesitant to keep a barrel of ethanol in the garage too lol. Burger also sells a Flex Fuel Kit which reads the ethanol content for you so there's no guessing. I believe ethanol just raises Octane too, in other ways as octane boosters do the same. The goal is higher octane gasoline at the end of the day. To know the actual octane, I am not sure, but the Burger kit will tell you Ethanol content and their maps are recommended based on ethanol levels.

[UN-Blank]

Did I read that the owners manual says e30 can be used?

[3MW]

Originally Posted by UN-Blank

Did I read that the owners manual says e30 can be used?

Inside the tank cap (correct word?), the sticker reads e25.
EU model. My car was sold new in Sweden.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

What's the highest map for 95 octane? I worked my way up to map 3 and the car is just screaming fast (I also have high flow downpipes and a cold-air intake). I was going to try to do some 0-60 runs tomorrow and was wondering if going up to map 4 would be too aggressive for this octane level.

The map number depends on your firmware version.

I would not go by how fast the car is, datalog, and be sure any new map is safe.

The damage more than often happens over time and not overnight

[AKSteve]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

The map number depends on your firmware version.

I would not go by how fast the car is, datalog, and be sure any new map is safe.

The damage more than often happens over time and not overnight

It ran better (faster) in Map 3 than in Map 4 anyway, so I'm sticking with Maps 2 or 3 when I'm using the octane booster and Map 1 when just using Unleaded Supreme.

As far as "damage," doesn't the JB4 monitor the knock sensors and then kick the system back into Map 0 if it detects knock? That's how it worked on my 991 turbo.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

It ran better (faster) in Map 3 than in Map 4 anyway, so I'm sticking with Maps 2 or 3 when I'm using the octane booster and Map 1 when just using Unleaded Supreme.

As far as "damage," doesn't the JB4 monitor the knock sensors and then kick the system back into Map 0 if it detects knock? That's how it worked on my 991 turbo.

It only kicks the car to map 0 if the car overboost or runs lean. It won't kick the car to map 0 if the car misfires.

It's your car, so you do as you please, but if you go by how the car feels vs. an actual datalog, you are asking for trouble and maybe a new engine.

[AKSteve]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

It's your car, so you do as you please, but if you go by how the car feels vs. an actual datalog, you are asking for trouble and maybe a new engine.

I actually expect to run the car in Map 1 almost all of the time. Anyway, I've never run a data log. Is it difficult and are the results something that I can interpret myself?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by AKSteve

I actually expect to run the car in Map 1 almost all of the time. Anyway, I've never run a data log. Is it difficult and are the results something that I can interpret myself?

On your phone app., select start data login and pull on 3rd or 4th degree, from 2500 to red line. Then select stop data logging.

It will save a file on the app, send it to BMS, and they will do the rest.

Traction control needs to be entirely off, not MDM.

I like 4th gear because I can never get traction on 3rd gear, which messes us with the log.

You do not need to log map 1.

[mike@x-ph.com]

I changed the boost by gear reduction settings, and it's a night and day difference!

Im running 25 PSI of boost.

I have selected 3 PSI for the 1st and 2nd gear. And 2 PSI for 3rd gear.
It's a very conservative setting considering I have the Toyo R888R.

I can easily do 3 PSI for 1st gear, 2 PSI for second gear, and no reduction for third gear.

If I have time in the future, I will be testing the different gears and see how aggressive I can make it.
But for now, I'm thrilled with the results. The car now launches instantaneously without any traction issues, and I can use the MDM setting again (at one point, the TQ was so much that MDM was useless on lower gears).


To make the changes, go to the JB4 app, settings, advanced, user adjustment settings, and scroll down to boost drop 1st, 2nd and third.

Your settings will depend on your tires and the map you are running; the more aggressive the map, the more you should drop the boost on lower gears.

For optimal settings, Start with the first gear and do a few pulls.
Keep increasing the boost drop number until you have enough traction. Do the same for the second and third gear.

[vitipr]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I changed the boost by gear reduction settings, and it's a night and day difference!

Im running 25 PSI of boost.

I have selected 3 PSI for the 1st and 2nd gear. And 2 PSI for 3rd gear.
It's a very conservative setting considering I have the Toyo R888R.

I can easily do 3 PSI for 1st gear, 2 PSI for second gear, and no reduction for third gear.

If I have time in the future, I will be testing the different gears and see how aggressive I can make it.
But for now, I'm thrilled with the results. The car now launches instantaneously without any traction issues, and I can use the MDM setting again (at one point, the TQ was so much that MDM was useless on lower gears).


To make the changes, go to the JB4 app, settings, advanced, user adjustment settings, and scroll down to boost drop 1st, 2nd and third.

Your settings will depend on your tires and the map you are running; the more aggressive the map, the more you should drop the boost on lower gears.

For optimal settings, Start with the first gear and do a few pulls.
Keep increasing the boost drop number until you have enough traction. Do the same for the second and third gear.

So if you put 3 in the boost reduction for that soecific gear that mean it will reduce 3 psi in that gear?Is not the target right? Thanks Mike.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by vitipr

So if you put 3 in the boost reduction for that soecific gear that mean it will reduce 3 psi in that gear?Is not the target right? Thanks Mike.

Correct.

Start with 3, pull from that gear, and adjust the amount until you get to the optimal settings.

[vitipr]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Correct.

Start with 3, pull from that gear, and adjust the amount until you get to the optimal settings.

Awesome! I will try it. Thanks.

[vitipr]

Is you break and loose the tmap lock clip, is there a way to buy that?m specific part? Or can you buy a cheap sensor that has a lock that fits the tmap sensor?