[mike@x-ph.com]

Note:
-We decided to wire the Bluetooth from the door instead of the firewall, it's easier to install and uninstall, it's also almost completely hidden.
-Im pleasantly surprised by how smooth map 1 is. Lots of power without any traction problems (RWD).
-Cant wait to put E85 and try the more aggressive maps

Gains are 80whp/100wtq on pump gas and up to 150whp/175tq on higher octane or E85 mixtures.
The ultimate tune for your S58 powered G80 M3 and G82 M4, the JB4 allows you to go from factory stock to full race and everywhere in between, with the push of a button on your steering wheel. The JB4 installs and removes quickly and includes many unique features not found in any other tune, including user-adjustable 1st and 2nd gear boost limiting, in-dash map switching, electronic wastegate control, ethanol fuel support, and built-in advanced CANbus based diagnostic tools. Installation is easy and completely removable with no splicing or cutting of factory wires.

Wirelessly connect the JB4 to your Bluetooth 4.0 compatible iOS, and Android device via the JB4 Mobile connect kit or to your Windows laptop with the BMS data cable. Both options allow you to record and analyze vehicle and tuning data, change JB4 performance maps, and update JB4 firmware as we release free newer versions with updates, more powerful maps, and new features under development. A separate JB4 Mobile app purchase is also required.



JB4 Tuner for S55 BMW M3 M4 M2 competition

S58 JB4 FEATURES & BENEFITS
• Gains are 80whp/100wtq on pump gas and up to 150whp/175wtq on higher octane or E85 mixtures.
• Improves 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times
• Preloaded with custom BMW tuning software and up to 8 maps for various fuel and modification levels
• The JB4 offers a lot more performance, functionality, and safety than your average performance chip
• Quick Plug & Play Installation
• Includes the rugged JB4 billet aluminum enclosure for protection
• CANbus OBDII integration offering unrivaled tuning features and performance
• Improved performance over non-integrated chiptunes
• Runs as smoothly as stock; this is how your vehicle should have come from the factory
• Compatible with all driving modes
• Fuel economy unchanged during everyday driving
• Compatible with JB4 Mobile for smartphone logging, tuning changes, and adjustment
• 91 octane fuel or better required for performance gains
• Ethanol (E85) compatible tuning maps
• Able to read/delete fault codes
• Not VIN locked and can be removed without a trace and resold down the road
• Made in the USA
• Free USA Shipping
• 5-year warranty


S58 JB4 Applications

BMW M3
• 2021+ S58 G80 BMW M3
• 2021+ S58 G80 BMW M3 Competition

BMW M4
• 2021+ S58 G82 BMW M4
• 2021+ S58 G82 BMW M4 Competition



What is a JB4?
The JB4 is a plug-and-play tune available for turbocharged vehicles. The JB4 tuner installs between your car's sensors, and its DME/ECU (computer) and manipulates vehicle performance through these connections making your vehicle much faster. While it's not the only tuning system that operates this way, the JB4 separates itself from the competition with much more advanced connection points and processing, including CANbus, fuel & spark control, Bluetooth to your smartphone, and a variety of innovative and advanced features not possible with any other system. BMS regularly publishes free mapping and firmware updates adding performance and features as ongoing development allows. In addition, the JB4 system is not VIN-locked to your vehicle and can quickly be removed and swapped between cars or resold at a later time. Often imitated but never duplicated, the JB4 has been the gold standard in plug-and-play turbocharged performance tuning for over a decade.

[moproblems]

I'm sorry Mike but running the wires through the jamb seems very ratchet to me. Why worry about ease of removal when that tmap connection is already such a pain in the ass you'd never get it off on the fly.

[mattburks]

Have had mine ran through the door for 7-8 months, haven't honestly thought about it until you just brought up the topic. Probably helps I'm BSM, but I do not notice the chord.

Admittedly my step by step install was a bit easier:
1. Order
2. Pay for shop install

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by moproblems

I'm sorry Mike but running the wires through the jamb seems very ratchet to me. Why worry about ease of removal when that tmap connection is already such a pain in the ass you'd never get it off on the fly.

It's safe, it's easy and it's hidden. Better ways to do it for sure, but to each their own

[mattssi]

I'm so anal I'm trying to find the part number for the firewall grommet so I can have a spare one handy when I return back to stock without having a cut up one.

[LongBeachDinanFan]

Can't you just push out the stock grommet, run OBDII, and then push it back in? I did that on the F90. Didn't take long at all.

[mattssi]

Probably yeah.

[Soylent]

Poke a small hole in the grommet and push through from passenger compartment. Grommet snugs down on wire if you don't make the hole too large.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by LongBeachDinanFan

Can't you just push out the stock grommet, run OBDII, and then push it back in? I did that on the F90. Didn't take long at all.

Originally Posted by Soylent

Poke a small hole in the grommet and push through from passenger compartment. Grommet snugs down on wire if you don't make the hole too large.

+1

[Johndaks]

Nice...looks fairly easy

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by Johndaks

Nice...looks fairly easy

Yeah, if you're paying for it.

Most installations on YouTube will skip a detailed installation of the driver's side, bottom front connector (I think is the boost sensor) that made me an atheist and a convert several times in one hour
(5:00-5:50 in the video)

To tell you that if you ask me how I got it done, I'd have to say that there had to had been divine intervention. To disconnect the OEM and reconnect it with the two piggyback connectors, I just put my hand in that orifice that felt like the jaws of a shark, maneuvered my fingers with what ever little space there was and after a long battle I would hear a "click" and a YES!!! from me, X3 times!!!

So yes, if you can pay, go for it. Although, it doesn't guarantee the person you're paying won't brake a connector doing it

Otherwise, take a few shots of Tequila (I hear it great for joint/muscle relaxation), have someone pull that apparatus/assembly next to said connector, and go at it. I did this connector first knowing that it would be the hardest. After you're done with it, you'll have a sigh of relief because the others will seem a walk in the park.

[Johndaks]

Ya... would probably go to the shop also.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by GixY2K

Yeah, if you're paying for it.

Most installations on YouTube will skip a detailed installation of the driver's side, bottom front connector (I think is the boost sensor) that made me an atheist and a convert several times in one hour
(5:00-5:50 in the video)

To tell you that if you ask me how I got it done, I'd have to say that there had to had been divine intervention. To disconnect the OEM and reconnect it with the two piggyback connectors, I just put my hand in that orifice that felt like the jaws of a shark, maneuvered my fingers with what ever little space there was and after a long battle I would hear a "click" and a YES!!! from me, X3 times!!!

So yes, if you can pay, go for it. Although, it doesn't guarantee the person you're paying won't brake a connector doing it

Otherwise, take a few shots of Tequila (I hear it great for joint/muscle relaxation), have someone pull that apparatus/assembly next to said connector, and go at it. I did this connector first knowing that it would be the hardest. After you're done with it, you'll have a sigh of relief because the others will seem a walk in the park.

I always recommend taking the parts to get it professionally installed, but we try not to skip any details.


Our install videos are different than other channels.

1- We take the part to a regular mechanic, not a tuning shop
2- We give him the piece and film
3- no walkthroughs, no replays
4- We keep mistakes (check the reflectors video )
5- The videographer puts the footage together and sends it to me; I never send it back for edits.
6- if a part is missing, its because the videographer does not have a clean shot of it

We show you how the install would go vs. what you see on other channels with perfect installs.

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I always recommend taking the parts to get it professionally installed, but we try not to skip any details.


Our install videos are different than other channels.

1- We take the part to a regular mechanic, not a tuning shop
2- We give him the piece and film
3- no walkthroughs, no replays
4- We keep mistakes (check the reflectors video )
5- The videographer puts the footage together and sends it to me; I never send it back for edits.
6- if a part is missing, its because the videographer does not have a clean shot of it

We show you how the install would go vs. what you see on other channels with perfect installs.

I get what you're saying. It is the nature of this engine that doesn't allow filming in such tight space. Hell, I could barely even fit my hand in there (I guess BMW Engineers have small hands?). Also, did BMW really had to add that little tab that has to be pulled out before you even start to get in there with a pick tool to release the rest of the connector? Like I told people, I'm glad the engineer that designed this layout was not standing next to me

But to my point. Had I known how difficult this installation would be, I would have paid the $400 my BMW dealership was charging me. The video "what's your forte" created, showed what the connectors look like and how you need to get in there with a pick tool to get it to release. He also emphasized how hard it was to get in that space. That really got me prepared and thinking, "sure I can do that...".

[Johndaks]

Originally Posted by GixY2K

I get what you're saying. It is the nature of this engine that doesn't allow filming in such tight space. Hell, I could barely even fit my hand in there (I guess BMW Engineers have small hands?). Also, did BMW really had to add that little tab that has to be pulled out before you even start to get in there with a pick tool to release the rest of the connector? Like I told people, I'm glad the engineer that designed this layout was not standing next to me

But to my point. Had I known how difficult this installation would be, I would have paid the $400 my BMW dealership was charging me. The video "what's your forte" created, showed what the connectors look like and how you need to get in there with a pick tool to get it to release. He also emphasized how hard it was to get in that space. That really got me prepared and thinking, "sure I can do that...".

Lol

[Johndaks]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I always recommend taking the parts to get it professionally installed, but we try not to skip any details.


Our install videos are different than other channels.

1- We take the part to a regular mechanic, not a tuning shop
2- We give him the piece and film
3- no walkthroughs, no replays
4- We keep mistakes (check the reflectors video )
5- The videographer puts the footage together and sends it to me; I never send it back for edits.
6- if a part is missing, its because the videographer does not have a clean shot of it

We show you how the install would go vs. what you see on other channels with
perfect installs.

If I purchase a JB4 from you (after my break in period), and if I remove it before everytime I go to dealer can they tell??
Will it void my warranty?
My car is a lease will it cause problems when I return it?

Thanks

[E_R_S_M4_Comp]

I have owned a BMS Stage 1 on my N63 and my S55 and both were easy to install and remove. This latest one looks like it is on a completely different level. Given this, and since I don't have anyone local I trust to install, I may have to forego the JB4 on my new G82 unfortunately. Which is too bad because I LOVED the Stage I on my last 2 vehicles.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by E_R_S_M4_Comp

I have owned a BMS Stage 1 on my N63 and my S55 and both were easy to install and remove. This latest one looks like it is on a completely different level. Given this, and since I don't have anyone local I trust to install, I may have to forego the JB4 on my new G82 unfortunately. Which is too bad because I LOVED the Stage I on my last 2 vehicles.

Any mechanic can install the Jb4

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by E_R_S_M4_Comp

I have owned a BMS Stage 1 on my N63 and my S55 and both were easy to install and remove. This latest one looks like it is on a completely different level. Given this, and since I don't have anyone local I trust to install, I may have to forego the JB4 on my new G82 unfortunately. Which is too bad because I LOVED the Stage I on my last 2 vehicles.

Here's my advice as a rookie BMW owner to you.

If you do get a 'piggyback' system, I would recommend JB4. If you're ultimate goal is to get it tuned, wait 'til then. I got the RC for less than 1/2 its price (used) and it's been a bit of disappointment for me. I can barely feel a difference. But to be fair, I'm driving between 6500 and 7200 feet in elevation, where the air is very thin and oxygen deprived. I'm very glad I didn't pay full price. I think JB4 w/e40 would have worked best for me.

Now, as for the installation, if you do it yourself, I'd try to watch as many different installation videos as you can to get a good idea of what it takes to get it done. A second person is almost a must. Don't skimp out on 'pick' tools ('L' shape pick tool works best); buy the long or extra long ones (I used the small ones and paid the price). Good lighting helps, but not a whole lot while your hand is in there. Have a friend pull that assembly aside that is on top of the boost connector, that will require unbolting it, while you're maneuvering your hand/fingers in there. Finger dexterity helps. I have sausage fingers and was able to do it.

It is definitely doable. Looking back, a second set of hands would have made a big difference.

Note: I'm thinking that a thread that would have a knowledge base of different approaches, tricks, suggestions, methods on how to deal with this 'booster connector' would help this community for those that want to do it themselves.

P.S.
I just did a quick search on the web on how to disconnect these connectors, and apparently in this video made in 2017, you didn't require a pick tool to disconnect them. Can someone validate that this is still the case with the S58 connectors?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hBn6w_2RFc
If this is still the case, then, pulling that connector will be 1,000 times easier.

[LongBeachDinanFan]

Originally Posted by E_R_S_M4_Comp

I have owned a BMS Stage 1 on my N63 and my S55 and both were easy to install and remove. This latest one looks like it is on a completely different level. Given this, and since I don't have anyone local I trust to install, I may have to forego the JB4 on my new G82 unfortunately. Which is too bad because I LOVED the Stage I on my last 2 vehicles.

The only hard part of installing any piggyback on the G80 is the MAP connection down below the intake box. I checked out a friends install and it wasn't that bad once you've done it once, maybe 15 min. Not much harder than installing S55 fuel pressure or MAP connection at firewall.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by LongBeachDinanFan

The only hard part of installing any piggyback on the G80 is the MAP connection down below the intake box. I checked out a friends install and it wasn't that bad once you've done it once, maybe 15 min. Not much harder than installing S55 fuel pressure or MAP connection at firewall.

Once you are familiar with the location of each sensor, the installation becomes easy. That's why the install time varies between 30 minutes and 2 hours, depending on how experienced your mechanic is.

[Soylent]

Originally Posted by Johndaks

If I purchase a JB4 from you (after my break in period), and if I remove it before everytime I go to dealer can they tell??
Will it void my warranty?
My car is a lease will it cause problems when I return it?

Thanks

Definitely don't want to take this off every time. I don't. Not an issue unless you are trying to claim a blown motor under warranty. At that point BMWNA can tell via torque logs even if you remove the JB4.