04-13-2024, 10:21 AM | #1 |
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Ordering a 2025 M4 - Couple Questions
Hi folks,
Former F82 owner here. I'm in the process of ordering a new G82, so have a few questions. The build sheet from the salesman I've been working with is attached. 1. It sounds like getting a discount off of MSRP isn't much of a thing, so this seems like a fair deal considering they're taking something off. Just want to make sure they're not adding any BS junk fees or anything like that that I can contest. 2. What are opinions on the prepaid maintenance packages. My understanding is these also cover wear and tear items like brake pads and rotors, so it sounds like it might be a worthwhile cost, but curious what folks' opinions are. 3. This question is a little off topic, but my current car is a 2018 C63s and it needs new rotors. I replaced the pads a year or so ago but it's definitely due to have the rotors changed now (brakes are pretty squeaky). Will that ding me enough on the trade in that it would be worth it spend the couple grand to change them beforehand? I guess my last question is, I've never ordered a BMW before--I did with my Mercedes and Audis in the past--but anything in particular that's unique to ordering a BMW I should know. Thanks all! |
04-13-2024, 12:03 PM | #2 |
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1. There are whole threads about MSRP, seems it all depends on where you are, the demand, what dealership. Some people seem to be able to get discounts off MSRP others like myself it was a no go. There are different BMW discounts that change monthly. BMW does have a military discount that is not only military personnel but also their families. No current BMW loyalty discount, but have your SA check every month till delivery. 2. Prepaid maintenance /extended warranty kinda really depends on your risk tolerance. But you should enquire whether it is a dealer based program or a corporate program, transferability, and most importantly what exactly is covered (brakes, differential, spark plugs, etc). Also need to consider how and how much you drive. I too had a F82, got the extended maintenance cuz of the worry about brakes, for me I am 90% highway driving, after 40k miles when I traded it in it still had over 50% of the pads still left! The extended warranty/maintenance was kind of wasted money. Also had something else, I believe with the differential, that I thought would have been covered but it wasn't and was a couple $k. 3. Typically you won't recoup the cost of the brakes on the trade in value, cuz most dealerships sell off the trade in's to wholesalers who can put on the rotors cheaper than you can get them put on. But if sell it yourself it could be worth it to do the brakes as many private buyers are not going to want to buy knowing it needs brakes, limiting your buying pool. I've ordered 6 BMWs total. They are fun to order and follow throughout the process. Hope this helps |
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04-13-2024, 12:10 PM | #3 |
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Hi OP - auto brokers are able to secure 6% off MSRP on a 2025 G82 (at least here in the NE - not sure how/if this travels). I was able to easily leverage this with my local'ish dealers to secure 5% off MSRP on a new custom build (plus any applicable incentives at time of delivery). NOTE - there seems to be zero to minimal negotiation off MSRP with a G80, but you seem to be in the market for a G82, so this is something you can reasonably shoot for.
From what I've read about maintenance, it did not sound like something that you should be purchasing with the new vehicle as you should have the option to add it later (if you want) and negotiate the cost with the selling dealer at that time --- I have read that there is a decent amount of margin in the MSRP of this option which, while non-negotiable as a seperate line item on a new build, would certainly be negotiable as a stand-alone option down the line IF you decided to add it (I will pass on it, and use the $$ + interest saved towards any future repairs/parts).
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04-14-2024, 09:34 AM | #4 |
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What’s with the pic? I haven’t seen a picture that low-res in like 30 years. Repost it if you can.
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04-14-2024, 11:27 AM | #6 | |
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Edit: it's the site you're using to host, not mobile friendly at all. After looking at it on the computer, skip the maintenance plan, even if you're keeping it long term, you can add it after the fact. The discount is ok, ~$2500/2.5%, you could probably do better if you looked around. M3 is tough to get steep discounts, but even on MY25 M4 you should be able to find 5-8% easily. And if they gave you that 2.5% because of the maintenance plan, then definitely renegotiate or move on. Otherwise, nice build - good color combo. Last edited by 'Cane; 04-14-2024 at 11:38 AM.. |
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04-22-2024, 12:35 PM | #7 | |
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That brings me to another question. If we put together a deal on the purchase price of the builds--which will take a few months to be built and delivered--what happens if I get a better deal selling the old car(s) rather than trading them in? Does the dealer still have to honor the purchase price(s) they agreed on and we put deposits on if we pay cash because we sold the cars privately versus trading them in? |
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04-22-2024, 01:07 PM | #8 |
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That’s a conversation you need to have with your CA/dealership. A lot of times they’ll plan on the potential profit of the trade-ins to make up for the difference in sale price reductions.
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04-22-2024, 08:27 PM | #9 | |
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Below is the order of actions I would do (and often have): 1. punch in your VINs to Carvana & Carmax to sell in order to get a feeling for what they would give (that changes based on how many vehicles similar to yours they already have in inventory). This should give you some kind of a baseline. It will be a number, plus your initial reaction to the number you see (may be good, may be bad). 2. When you do your next service or when you're around town, go to your local dealers and ask them what they would give you for your car (sale, not trade in) - this will further confirm the baseline if number close to #1 above, or give you an idea how much the dealer is lowballing if number far from #1 above 3. check autotrader, cargurus, local dealerships & carvana/carmax for vehicle most similar to yours - see what they're selling for. General rules of thumb, that I believe applies 90% of the time: - you can always get more selling yourself, rather than trading in or selling to dealer - you should shop around and be persistant in getting a realistic deal you want for purchase of new vehicles - you should not pay for any ADM unless you're buying a 911 GT3 - just my opinion My recommendation would be to negotiate purchase price with the dealer before you put deposit down. I just ordered a G80 M3 and negotiated about 1% under MSRP. I imagine a high volume sales item like X5 would be significantly lower than MSRP, although I have absolutely no idea about the X5 market. Then, if your #2 above makes sense independent of the purchase agreement, explore more. Otherwise, sell elsewhere especially since you have time. You can always come back and trade in the day you purchase, that could be your last resort. Some examples from my experience that validate my approach: - Dealer first offered $13k to buy my wife's 52k mile 2017 Honda accord, when I showed him that his location is selling a similar one for $21k, he came back and offered me $18k. I didn't bite and am confident will sell for closer to $20k. - Carvana and dealer offered me $59k and $60k for selling my 2021 F87 M2 comp with 2k miles, I laughed and sold it for $69k myself (Covid crazy market) - Dealer and others on forum offered me $66k-$68k on a 2022 G80 M3 with 8k miles and although good deals, I had time and wanted to explore more, ended up just selling it for $72k this past weekend. - My local BMW dealership wanted a $5k ADM and a $5k deposit for G80 orders over the last 2 years, I laughed at them and called dealers around other states and got slightly under MSRP in 2022 and again in 2024. They key for me is being flexible and knowing what's most valuable for you. If convenience, all good. I personally like the feeling like I'm solving a problem and chasing a deal a bit.
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05-06-2024, 08:54 AM | #10 | |
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FYI everyone, I placed the order on Friday, and the dealer sent me the attached build sheet. Is anyone able to let me know what this means in terms of status, production number, etc.? It's all Greek to me. From speaking to them last week it sounded like they have the allocation currently so the order is placed, and it should begin production soon. I think I saw a thread on here that explained what the codes/numbers mean on these build sheets at one point but can't seem to find it, so sorry if this is a question that's been asked before. Thanks--excited to get the new car! |
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05-06-2024, 09:51 AM | #11 | |
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You can also go to mygarage.bmwusa.com and enter your production number to track the vehicle. There is a chrome F12 view to show you the actual planned production date. You can still change your spec and options until it hits status 150 - then you’re locked in and will get a vin number.
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05-06-2024, 09:52 AM | #12 |
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It shows the production number, so yes, you have an allocation. Ask the dealer for the build week or call the BMW Genius @ (844) 443-6487. There is a sticky post as well that tells you all you need to know about the process.
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1772091 |
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