[exuberantwombat]

I'm a new G80 owner and I've been loving the experience so far. I've already encountered a few issues regarding the summer tires here in MD (it's been very cold the last few weeks except for that random 70F+ day we had) and I already have a set of winter tires on the way. Fitment is not a concern for me as I had a ton of great help sorting that out. This would be the first time I am swapping out a wheel for something that isn't a spare tire. Especially on a luxury/performance vehicle. Since, ostensibly, I will be doing wheel swaps at least twice a year, I want to be equipped to do it at home (no garage for what it's worth) rather than bug friends to use their shop every time. Based on cursory research, here's a list of things that I ordered to perform the swap:

• 1.5 Ton Jack - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK29RRF...t_details&th=1 - Car is 2 tons but I am lifting only one corner at a time, am I playing fast and loose with the capacity?
• A decent no frills impact wrench - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KFNSVWJ...roduct_details
• A set of sockets including 17 mm - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXK2DXJ4...roduct_details
• Plus misc. accessories for the impact wrench like battery and charger but neither it's here nor there.

So, please throw darts at the list I just put up. I started getting concerned when I saw some folks talking about things I hadn't considered at all such as: breaker bar, polymer coated sockets, manufacturer recommendation for final torque applied. I don't have a breaker bar or know which one is best to get. I don't know how important polymer coated sockets really are but I understand that you want to avoid scuffing up the wheels. And I really don't have a way to measure applied torque and I would like to know how much of a problem it could be if I overlook this one.

If you guys have recommendations on products I ought to get, I would love to hear them all. Thanks!

[kgelfen360]

You need torque wrench!

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by exuberantwombat

I'm a new G80 owner and I've been loving the experience so far. I've already encountered a few issues regarding the summer tires here in MD (it's been very cold the last few weeks except for that random 70F+ day we had) and I already have a set of winter tires on the way. Fitment is not a concern for me as I had a ton of great help sorting that out. This would be the first time I am swapping out a wheel for something that isn't a spare tire. Especially on a luxury/performance vehicle. Since, ostensibly, I will be doing wheel swaps at least twice a year, I want to be equipped to do it at home (no garage for what it's worth) rather than bug friends to use their shop every time. Based on cursory research, here's a list of things that I ordered to perform the swap:

• 1.5 Ton Jack - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK29RRF...t_details&th=1 - Car is 2 tons but I am lifting only one corner at a time, am I playing fast and loose with the capacity?
• A decent no frills impact wrench - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KFNSVWJ...roduct_details
• A set of sockets including 17 mm - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXK2DXJ4...roduct_details
• Plus misc. accessories for the impact wrench like battery and charger but neither it's here nor there.

So, please throw darts at the list I just put up. I started getting concerned when I saw some folks talking about things I hadn't considered at all such as: breaker bar, polymer coated sockets, manufacturer recommendation for final torque applied. I don't have a breaker bar or know which one is best to get. I don't know how important polymer coated sockets really are but I understand that you want to avoid scuffing up the wheels. And I really don't have a way to measure applied torque and I would like to know how much of a problem it could be if I overlook this one.

If you guys have recommendations on products I ought to get, I would love to hear them all. Thanks!

The Harbor Freight Daytona 3-ton rapid pump jack is on sale right now, $30 off with code 68499447 Get this one. It's one of the best and most reliable on the market.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ack-64779.html

You'll also need some jackpad adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Anod.../dp/B06ZYZJ86J

Get a nice socket set with plastic surrounds so you avoid scratches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09KG9488V/

You don't need or even want to use an impact wrench, perhaps you can use it for undoing the bolts but you want to torque the bolts down to the correct torque, which is 101ft-lb or 140nm. Get a nice torque wrench to do this, I'm quite partial to the MichaelPro click-through https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP...dp/B0833V88KB/

Procedure is very simple:

1) Loosen the bolts with the car on the ground, just break the tension and do a couple turns

2) Jack the car up to just get the tire off the ground

3) Loosen and remove all bolts, take the wheel off

4) New wheel on, the wheels are hub-centric, so it should be able to sit on the rotor with no bolts in as long as it's on evenly

5) Insert all bolts, hand-tightening all 5 in a star-pattern (do not torque them down)

6) Lower the car down to the ground, then tighten and torque all 5 in a star-pattern to the speced torque, 101ft-lb/140nm. The torque wrench gives an audible "click" when you hit the right torque spec. It's not actually that much torque, so don't be alarmed if you think it's looser than it should be. Tire shops always tend to go ham on the impact wrench which is actually bad and can strip/break bolts if it's not done properly.

[Luc@Speed&Tech]

Get a set of wheel alignment pins. It’ll make the job a thousand times easier especially if you plan to have spacers.

https://ind-distribution.com/product...BoCUroQAvD_BwE

[exuberantwombat]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

The Harbor Freight Daytona 3-ton rapid pump jack is on sale right now, $30 off with code 68499447 Get this one. It's one of the best and most reliable on the market.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ack-64779.html

You'll also need some jackpad adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Anod.../dp/B06ZYZJ86J

Get a nice socket set with plastic surrounds so you avoid scratches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09KG9488V/

You don't need or even want to use an impact wrench, perhaps you can use it for undoing the bolts but you want to torque the bolts down to the correct torque, which is 101ft-lb or 140nm. Get a nice torque wrench to do this, I'm quite partial to the MichaelPro click-through https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-MP...dp/B0833V88KB/

Procedure is very simple:

1) Loosen the bolts with the car on the ground, just break the tension and do a couple turns

2) Jack the car up to just get the tire off the ground

3) Loosen and remove all bolts, take the wheel off

4) New wheel on, the wheels are hub-centric, so it should be able to sit on the rotor with no bolts in as long as it's on evenly

5) Insert all bolts, hand-tightening all 5 in a star-pattern (do not torque them down)

6) Lower the car down to the ground, then tighten and torque all 5 in a star-pattern to the speced torque, 101ft-lb/140nm. The torque wrench gives an audible "click" when you hit the right torque spec. It's not actually that much torque, so don't be alarmed if you think it's looser than it should be. Tire shops always tend to go ham on the impact wrench which is actually bad and can strip/break bolts if it's not done properly.

This is exactly the kind of hand holding I was looking for
I really appreciate you taking the time to lay it out so clearly. Sometimes there's a lot of tribal knowledge when it comes to stuff like this.

[exuberantwombat]

Originally Posted by Luc@Speed&Tech

Get a set of wheel alignment pins. It’ll make the job a thousand times easier especially if you plan to have spacers.

https://ind-distribution.com/product...BoCUroQAvD_BwE

I had come across these before in my research already. I think you're right in suggesting these. Thanks!

[yeetyeet]

I would also verify that jack works (fits under the vehicle). I just bought the Daytona 3ton from Harbor Freight. Its specifically marketed as a low profile jack as they do have non low profile.
Just a forethought!

[exuberantwombat]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

5) Insert all bolts, hand-tightening all 5 in a star-pattern (do not torque them down)

6) Lower the car down to the ground, then tighten and torque all 5 in a star-pattern to the speced torque, 101ft-lb/140nm. The torque wrench gives an audible "click" when you hit the right torque spec. It's not actually that much torque, so don't be alarmed if you think it's looser than it should be. Tire shops always tend to go ham on the impact wrench which is actually bad and can strip/break bolts if it's not done properly.

These steps give me a bit of pause. Is it really standard to do final torqueing on the bolts with the full weight of the car already on the wheel? It seems counter-intuitive to me. I would imagine that the weight of the car could cause the wheel to shift slightly and then I may lock in the shifted position when torqueing. I could be wrong since I know the bolts are "cone-seated", if that's at all a word, which could mean the whole thing is self-aligning anyways.

[Luc@Speed&Tech]

Originally Posted by exuberantwombat

These steps give me a bit of pause. Is it really standard to do final torqueing on the bolts with the full weight of the car already on the wheel? It seems counter-intuitive to me. I would imagine that the weight of the car could cause the wheel to shift slightly and then I may lock in the shifted position when torqueing. I could be wrong since I know the bolts are "cone-seated", if that's at all a word, which could mean the whole thing is self-aligning anyways.

Hand thread the bolts (can not stress this enough)
Use an impact (low setting) to blast in the bolts while the car is in the air. Or just thread them all in by hand if you're not comfortable with an impact.
Lower it just enough so the tire touches the ground (not full weight, just enough so the wheel doesn't spin when you tighten the bolts).
Do the final torque in a star formation.
Check torque again after 50-100 miles.

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by exuberantwombat

These steps give me a bit of pause. Is it really standard to do final torqueing on the bolts with the full weight of the car already on the wheel? It seems counter-intuitive to me. I would imagine that the weight of the car could cause the wheel to shift slightly and then I may lock in the shifted position when torqueing. I could be wrong since I know the bolts are "cone-seated", if that's at all a word, which could mean the whole thing is self-aligning anyways.

Maybe it seems a bit counter-intuitive, but that's the way to do it. You want the torque tightened down with the suspension loaded so you prevent the non-standard forces (not rolling in the direction of the tire) while driving. At least that's the way I've understood it. You also won't be able to torque the bolts in the air since the wheel can spin.

If you hand tighten all the bolts in the air, the wheel will be flush with the rotor, so that's not a concern.

[exuberantwombat]

Thanks for the clarifications!