[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BMWRacer523

You'll have to let us know. I don't have any confidence issues with the steering as is on track.

For sure, I'm also suspecting the tires, finishing a set of BF Rival 1.5 and they sometimes feel a bit vague. Installing new Conti Extreme Force in a week.

Not saying the OEM setup is a problem but having the solid connection instead of the squishy bushing does reveal more of whats going on trough the steering and overall chassis.

[BMWRacer523]

Originally Posted by PLF69

For sure, I'm also suspecting the tires, finishing a set of BF Rival 1.5 and they sometimes feel a bit vague. Installing new Conti Extreme Force in a week.

Not saying the OEM setup is a problem but having the solid connection instead of the squishy bushing does reveal more of whats going on trough the steering and overall chassis.

No doubt. But as you said, tires are a large part of it. I run cup2s at the track. Having driven race cars with full solid setups I totally agree that's better but I don't drive this car at race pace anyway.

[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BMWRacer523

No doubt. But as you said, tires are a large part of it. I run cup2s at the track. Having driven race cars will fill solid setup I totally agree that's better but I don't drive this car at race pace anyway.

I think with the monoballs it's getting closer to how vibrations were transmitted in my 718 GTS and my friends GT4 wich is to me a good baseline/exemple of having good feel without being too harsh. The next step would be to re-wrap the steering wheel in Alcantara(or leather) but without the huge plush padding BMW uses.

I noticed the Porsche steering wheel feel rock hard vs the BMW ones.

[BMWRacer523]

Originally Posted by PLF69

I think with the monoballs it's getting closer to how vibrations were trasnmisated in my 718 GTS and my friends GT4 wich is to me a good baseline/exemple of having good feel without being too harsh. The next step would be to re-wrap the steering wheel in Alcantara(or leather) but without the huge plush padding BMW uses.

I noticed the Porsche steering feel rock hard vs the BMW ones.

I switched the wheel to a Carismo one with alcantara. Will switch the stock one back in the winter for heated steering LOL

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by PLF69

Bumping an old thread to see where everyone one is at today,

I just installed Monoballs and have to say it would be a priority to do on the G8X, the confidence you gain in the steering is eye opener, can't wait to experience it on track.

I was thinking about rear toe links to help with rear end stability, what do you guys think ?

Originally Posted by BMWRacer523

You'll have to let us know. I don't have any confidence issues with the steering as is on track.

The steering on the G8X is actually quite good for what it is! I too didn’t feel like I lack information on track. However, I’ll be doing a full SPL kit on my car with my MCS 1WNR. Will report back once I got it done!
From what I’ve heard, rear upper arm and toe arm, as well as front camber plates are mandatory on the G8X platform to get a proper track alignment, since the front is camber limited and rear is camber and toe limited. Everything else is icing on the cake.
Was thinking about monoballs but instead I’ll just do tension arms. Looking forward to it!!
Will be running 285 square RE71RS as well. Planning on either CSG C1/CE1 or endless ME20 front and back. Leaning towards the endless since I’m a bit iffy on a progressive front pad and a digressive rear pad. This combination seems like it’d change the brake bias real time. What do I know!!

[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BrendanZ0402

The steering on the G8X is actually quite good for what it is! I too didn’t feel like I lack information on track. However, I’ll be doing a full SPL kit on my car with my MCS 1WNR. Will report back once I got it done!
From what I’ve heard, rear upper arm and toe arm, as well as front camber plates are mandatory on the G8X platform to get a proper track alignment, since the front is camber limited and rear is camber and toe limited. Everything else is icing on the cake.
Was thinking about monoballs but instead I’ll just do tension arms. Looking forward to it!!
Will be running 285 square RE71RS as well. Planning on either CSG C1/CE1 or endless ME20 front and back. Leaning towards the endless since I’m a bit iffy on a progressive front pad and a digressive rear pad. This combination seems like it’d change the brake bias real time. What do I know!!

What wheels will you be using ?

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by PLF69

What wheels will you be using ?

I’ll be running Forgeline GS1R 19x10.5. They are running 19x11 now, 2023 Nankang CRS comes in sizes that fit! 295/30/19 and 305/30/19. 19x11 you can just run the Apex VS5RS. Not sure if it’s plug and play though, Jackie Ding is running 305 square in his M2 with just camber plates. May need additional mods for the M3/4. Dunno!

[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BrendanZ0402

I’ll be running Forgeline GS1R 19x10.5. They are running 19x11 now, 2023 Nankang CRS comes in sizes that fit! 295/30/19 and 305/30/19. 19x11 you can just run the Apex VS5RS. Not sure if it’s plug and play though, Jackie Ding is running 305 square in his M2 with just camber plates. May need additional mods for the M3/4. Dunno!

I will be installing 295/30-19 this Friday on 19x10 et12 wheels, I have 275 square right now so I will confirm if a spacer is needed up front and what 10.5 would be like. I know 295 is the max for 10inch wheels but I don't feel like ordering new wheels yet.

What offset do you plan to order your 19x10.5 wheels ?

I also wanted CRS but they are backorder in my area and will get the new Conti Extreme Force witch is supposed to be a bit slower but more durable.

I think 305 on 10.5 would be totally fine and with a et10 offset could probably clear the front strut. It will depend on the tire model too since they can vary almost 1/2 inch between brands.

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by PLF69

I will be installing 295/30-19 this Friday on 19x10 et12 wheels, I have 275 square right now so I will confirm if a spacer is needed up front and what 10.5 would be like. I know 295 is the max for 10inch wheels but I don't feel like ordering new wheels yet.

What offset do you plan to order your 19x10.5 wheels ?

I also wanted CRS but they are backorder in my area and will get the new Conti Extreme Force witch is supposed to be a bit slower but more durable.

I think 305 on 10.5 would be totally fine and with a et10 offset could probably clear the front strut. It will depend on the tire model too since they can vary almost 1/2 inch between brands.

Honestly I’m not sure about my offsets since I just bought them off Casey from Racewerkz lol. Need to ask for it! But it seems like ET18 works for 10.5, and ET22 for 11 inch-according to Apex.

The contis are a great endurance 200tw I’ve hear! From looking at the spec sheet, they also run a bit narrow compared to the Bridgestone. A 285/35/19 measured out to have a 10.5” tread width, and the contis has the same 10.5” tread width at 295. Keep in mind though the widest tire you can fit on a wheel is not always the quickest! Recent article from GRM showed that on a 7” wheel a 205 is actually quicker than a 225. Meaty fitment pleases the eye, I’m a huge fan of them too. Although I hate the look, a slight stretch in the fitment seem to be the quickest; provides the biggest dynamic contact patch it seems.

Yeah we got the first batch of the 23 CRS here in Cali LOL. They’re on pace with RE71RS while wearing like the RT660. Can’t wait to try them next year when they’re more available. Casey said some tires in 315 might need a 5mm spacer in front when running their 19x11 wheel. I might make the jump to 11” in the future but since I already have the 10.5” I’ll run it for now.

I didn’t catch it but what tires were you running? When the CRS become more available I think you could try their 275/35/19. Nankang seems to run wide. For the AR1 at least. Looking forward to your feedback of the Contis! Seems like a great middle ground.

[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BrendanZ0402

Honestly I’m not sure about my offsets since I just bought them off Casey from Racewerkz lol. Need to ask for it! But it seems like ET18 works for 10.5, and ET22 for 11 inch-according to Apex.

The contis are a great endurance 200tw I’ve hear! From looking at the spec sheet, they also run a bit narrow compared to the Bridgestone. A 285/35/19 measured out to have a 10.5” tread width, and the contis has the same 10.5” tread width at 295. Keep in mind though the widest tire you can fit on a wheel is not always the quickest! Recent article from GRM showed that on a 7” wheel a 205 is actually quicker than a 225. Meaty fitment pleases the eye, I’m a huge fan of them too. Although I hate the look, a slight stretch in the fitment seem to be the quickest; provides the biggest dynamic contact patch it seems.

Yeah we got the first batch of the 23 CRS here in Cali LOL. They’re on pace with RE71RS while wearing like the RT660. Can’t wait to try them next year when they’re more available. Casey said some tires in 315 might need a 5mm spacer in front when running their 19x11 wheel. I might make the jump to 11” in the future but since I already have the 10.5” I’ll run it for now.

I didn’t catch it but what tires were you running? When the CRS become more available I think you could try their 275/35/19. Nankang seems to run wide. For the AR1 at least. Looking forward to your feedback of the Contis! Seems like a great middle ground.

That's good news about the Conti being skinny. I am running BF Rival 1.5 now and I found them very sticky but with not so precise feeling, you can throw them hard and they have good grip tough. I just didn't see using 275 again, I had to try larger even if I knew it could be not much better, the temptation was too strong haha.

I met a few ppl running the CRS at the track and it was all praise !!

Do you know the weight of your 19x10.5 wheels ? Just curious and also what the fit will end up like, I would be surprised you don't need spacers with et18, my et12 10inch are very close to the strut.

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by PLF69

That's good news about the Conti being skinny. I am running BF Rival 1.5 now and I found them very sticky but with not so precise feeling, you can throw them hard and they have good grip tough. I just didn't see using 275 again, I had to try larger even if I knew it could be not much better, the temptation was too strong haha.

I met a few ppl running the CRS at the track and it was all praise !!

Do you know the weight of your 19x10.5 wheels ? Just curious and also what the fit will end up like, I would be surprised you don't need spacers with et18, my et12 10inch are very close to the strut.

Another thing to keep in mind is that when people share their fitments, they might be running aftermarket strut/coilovers! MCS for instance is narrower than factory if I'm not trippin.

I think Apex has a tread on the VS5RS

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1938472

Hey who doesn't want bigger tires? A big part of why I want to move up to 11" in the future it's so that my tire size can start with a 3 LOL

I believe the GS1R is in the ballpark of 18-20lbs depending on specs etc. I don't have the exact weight of my wheels since they are sitting at the shop, I can weigh the wheel+tire later on, but I'm not too worried about a 1-2lb difference tbh. I got a deal on the forgelines, if I were to pay retail I think I will go with the Apex. Btw you can get the forgelines for under 6500 on the Racewerkz website FWIW. I got them used(never mounted before) for around 5K. You can also see the fitment on their website! Although they're now running 19x11 I believe the pictures are the 19x10.5

https://www.racewerkz.com/products/f...e-19-wheel-set

I think the owner is on here but doesn't seem to be active yfzkid989

[LuvMyE92]

I'll probably get some flaming on this, but if you read the OP's original post carefully, you'll see that he/she was asking for advice after their first track day.

IMHO you do not start modifying the car at the novice level. At that level, you spend your money on more track days. Learn, learn, learn. These cars are absolutely phenomenal performers right out of the box. And the M engineers know what they are doing. Sure, it's not the fastest track rat in the world, but they had to make compromises for street use and comfort. Nothing wrong with that, especially if you drive the car 98% of the time on the street and/or drive it to the track.

Keep it stock, stay on street tires, and learn how to drive. Then you can, if you want, start making compromises with things like camber plates.

Natch, if you drive a track that is hard on brakes, putting on track pads is always a good idea, but often you'll find that if you simply brake properly, stock OE pads will be fine.

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

I'll probably get some flaming on this, but if you read the OP's original post carefully, you'll see that he/she was asking for advice after their first track day.

IMHO you do not start modifying the car at the novice level. At that level, you spend your money on more track days. Learn, learn, learn. These cars are absolutely phenomenal performers right out of the box. And the M engineers know what they are doing. Sure, it's not the fastest track rat in the world, but they had to make compromises for street use and comfort. Nothing wrong with that, especially if you drive the car 98% of the time on the street and/or drive it to the track.

Keep it stock, stay on street tires, and learn how to drive. Then you can, if you want, start making compromises with things like camber plates.

Natch, if you drive a track that is hard on brakes, putting on track pads is always a good idea, but often you'll find that if you simply brake properly, stock OE pads will be fine.

Overall good advise, but I’d argue that camber plates are still necessary if doing more track days. Or else the tire wear will be horrendous! Same goes with the rear arms. Now, it’s different when people starting to do power mods etc without driver mod.

Seat time is absolutely important. But so is balancing consumables with mods/ability to do track alignment. This is to get reasonable tire wear. IMO brake pads and tires go hand in hand. The G8X is the exception in all cars that the stock pads are actually quite good on track, if you stay with the factory 4S. Putting any 200tw on and you might have trouble. Plus a track pad will wear better as well!

I think the best way to learn is to get the car setup properly, not modding any further, run an endurance 200tw like the Hankook RS4, and just do laps.

[BlueBeamer]

Based on my racing experience it all depends what you are trying to do: race, track days, time trials? Each one has different goals.
In general tires are always biggest gain at anything from 2-4 seconds a lap depending on type and size
Shocks and aero next best for quick laps
For consistency and safety pads and fluid are a must.
Alignment and camber depends on tires and temps showing as to what you should run. All tires like slightly different heat ranges and camber
For me change fluid and pads and get dedicated set of tires and camber plates.
Beyond that aloof of money for incrementally small gains in lap times

[Blk5er33]

Originally Posted by BlueBeamer

Based on my racing experience it all depends what you are trying to do: race, track days, time trials? Each one has different goals.
In general tires are always biggest gain at anything from 2-4 seconds a lap depending on type and size
Shocks and aero next best for quick laps
For consistency and safety pads and fluid are a must.
Alignment and camber depends on tires and temps showing as to what you should run. All tires like slightly different heat ranges and camber
For me change fluid and pads and get dedicated set of tires and camber plates.
Beyond that aloof of money for incrementally small gains in lap times

Thanks for tip. What is your actual preference on wheels/tires for the G8x? Go wider or run stock? I contemplated going wider, but decided to remain stock for now, because the OEM wheels were engineered by BMW that way for a reason. I noticed considerable gains when I switched to the "Star" Cup 2 Connects. I plant to get the Cup 2 R Connects for next season on OEM wheels.

Having said that, I'm still tempted to go with a wider wheel setup like 285 or 295 in the front with 305/325 in the rear, although going up 10-20 mm probably won't make much a difference and will just put more stress on the OEM suspension...

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by Blk5er33

Thanks for tip. What is your actual preference on wheels/tires for the G8x? Go wider or run stock? I contemplated going wider, but decided to remain stock for now, because the OEM wheels were engineered by BMW that way for a reason. I noticed considerable gains when I switched to the "Star" Cup 2 Connects. I plant to get the Cup 2 R Connects for next season on OEM wheels.

Having said that, I'm still tempted to go with a wider wheel setup like 285 or 295 in the front with 305/325 in the rear, although going up 10-20 mm probably won't make much a difference and will just put more stress on the OEM suspension...

I wouldn’t put on cup 2R since those are one lap wonder tires. Drops off drastically after the first session. I think running 285 square is a good medium and should be very doable once you get some camber. If your goal is just doing laps I’ll look into tires like Congo Extreme Contact Sport or the hankook RS4 since those are more endurance orientated. The stock tire setup does induce under steer a bit, which I assume is BMW’s goal for safety. Hope this helped!

[Boomer 2019]

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

I'll probably get some flaming on this, but if you read the OP's original post carefully, you'll see that he/she was asking for advice after their first track day.

IMHO you do not start modifying the car at the novice level. At that level, you spend your money on more track days. Learn, learn, learn. These cars are absolutely phenomenal performers right out of the box. And the M engineers know what they are doing. Sure, it's not the fastest track rat in the world, but they had to make compromises for street use and comfort. Nothing wrong with that, especially if you drive the car 98% of the time on the street and/or drive it to the track.

Keep it stock, stay on street tires, and learn how to drive. Then you can, if you want, start making compromises with things like camber plates.

Natch, if you drive a track that is hard on brakes, putting on track pads is always a good idea, but often you'll find that if you simply brake properly, stock OE pads will be fine.

I absolutely agree with you about a person new to the track not going overboard on mods right away. The truth is that very few people will continue past one or maybe a couple of days for whatever reason. Spend your money on seat time until you have become hopelessly hooked. I would make a couple of exceptions however. Good quality high temp brake fluid is relatively inexpensive and worth every penny in the braking zones. And.. your OE rear brake pads are going to vanish very quickly when driving on a track. When that time comes, replace them with better quality street/track, or full track pads. They are not much more expensive than a set of OE rears, and will last much longer. You can continue to use the OE fronts. They will give you good service for quite a few days. I got 9 days out of mine, and I was already an Intermediate/Advanced driver when I got the car.

A Novice needs nothing more than this. Go forth and learn.

[ChrisM4]

Originally Posted by Achtung_M3

Thanks for the reply. If HAS isn’t the best option, what is? KW v4? The stock car just looks like it’s screaming for suspension upgrades.

Unless you are an expert driver there’s no way you’ll out drive the stock suspension with a proper alignment.

Fluid, pads, alignment (with camber plates if required), track tires/wheels are all you need.

You can run stock wheels and tires but they’re expensive and can get a bit beat up. A track set is worth the investment if you’re tracking a lot.