[Hit_Apex]

I spent more time reading all the methods people have suggested and their woes than it took to replace the rears.

As mentioned above, service mode is slick. Once activated (BimmerLink) the calipers behave like a mechanical non-threaded piston. I use a large c-clamp but pry method works with very little force.

The other tip, is to use a thin 17mm box (spanner) wrench to hold the pin so that the bolt can be removed (13mm socket). I hate the idea of using vice grips. I have a thin 17mm wrench from an old German car toolkit (I think from a GTI) but you should be able to find one on Amazon. I would grind down an old wrench before use pliers/vice grips but I have thing about teeth marks.

[31shifter]

Originally Posted by HebbeM3

Bumping this.

I ran out of the rear pads yesturday on a trackday.
Watched this video of replacement in rear and there is no mentioning of retracting the pistons electric or resetting by PC.


I used the same tool as in the video and waiting for new pads.

Snap ring pliers also work to screw the piston back in a bit.

[sleepy75]

Has anyone successfully used BimmerLink with the ENET cable/adapter? Seen some reviews claiming connection issues.

[MMnut]

BimmerLink with the ENET wifi dongle. Unbelievably fast. Just dont understand why people still use cable

[cb224]

Originally Posted by beachBmmr

Well Ive been through 3 sets of front and 2 sets of rears. My last track session I went hard and 2 hour long sessions wore through the fronts in 50 laps./120 miles. I believe heat is now the issue and will attempt to address cooling. I am going to start by trimming my backing plate and making some deflectors that mount to the control arms and direct airflow toward the rotor center.

Many tests have been done to show deflection is more effective than ducting.

Vorshlag did some testing and makes some deflection kits.

https://vorshlag-store.com/products/...-deflector-kit

I do have a set of RP-1 I got delivered last week which have leas bite and better wear characteristics. Ill try them next, but heat is an issue - I have heat checking all my rotor face.

Edit- btw, get bimmerlink to retract your rear calipers and reset your codes. If you move your pistons around and dont press your pedal before you start the car it freaks out the abs and thinks you have a brake line leak and throws a bunch of codes and makes the car undriveable. Brake by wire sucks…

So I moved pistons around and did exactly what I shouldn't have done, i.e. start car before pumping pedal and mow goa a bunch of error codes. Upon resetting with bimmerlink, do I have to go through the brake pumping procedure or does reset fix it once and for all?

[Anderson11]

ProTool has a very useful feature to put the rear brakes in service mode for pad swap out. No more dicking around with taking the top of the parking brake motor off to retract the rear pads.

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1678557636

[diablo2112]

I just replaced the rear pads on my G80. A couple of tips.

Bimmerlink is great for retracting the parking brake servo. Highly recommended for this use.

The 17mm wrench needs to be pretty thin. I have a large selection of wrenchs, and had one thin enough. Nearly all my standard Craftsmen wrenches were too-thick.

The brake pad wear sensor is only on the passenger side. It’s a bit fragile and wires short, and if you forget to take it out, you can break off the sensor wires (ask me how I know). In my case, I just soldered the wires together and zip tied it to the bracket. This threw a code which you can clear with Bimmerlink. Finally, you can ONLY clear brake pad wear sensor messages (either with Bimmerlink or the onboard diagnostic menu) if the parking brake is off (again, ask me how I learned this.)

I used EBC Red pads. They generated quite a bit of dust until they were bedded in. Excessive brake dust is still one of my biggest complaints about all BMWs. I end up changing pads on every BMW I buy.

[cb224]

Originally Posted by Anderson11

ProTool has a very useful feature to put the rear brakes in service mode for pad swap out. No more dicking around with taking the top of the parking brake motor off to retract the rear pads.

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1678557636

Thanks for the tip! I purchased the BimmerLink tool and it also has this parking brake “service mode” feature. Made it extremely easy to perform this service.

[spridge]

I’ve used both BimmerLink and the 9v battery method (mainly because I didn’t believe it could be that easy and cheap). They both work, and neither method results in codes or dash lights.

[DRAGM3]

Originally Posted by HebbeM3

Ok, Nice to hear.
Seems to be different veiws on this.

Some say push the piston back with a special tool.

Some say rewind the electric handbrake engine with a battery and cables.

Some release the handbrake engine and rewind manual with a hextool.

Some that you need a PC with correct software to reset everything.

Confusing

Well I did this job today and even with bimmer link you still need a brake caliper tool and use the number 8 and turn clockwise until you have enough space. My brake pads were completely worned out so I had to push it all the way.