[AllNatty]

Originally Posted by wavyyyy

How's the clutch feel with the 1-2 shift? Is it as shitty as stock clutch?

Feels much better now with the CDV delete.

[wavyyyy]

Originally Posted by AllNatty

Feels much better now with the CDV delete.

Well I did that on the stock clutch and yeah it’s definitely better but still shitty unless I shift at max 12 mph lol

[AllNatty]

Originally Posted by wavyyyy

Well I did that on the stock clutch and yeah it’s definitely better but still shitty unless I shift at max 12 mph lol

I guess I'll find out in a couple weeks after the break in. I'll be doing pushing it hard with E50 and will report back with how everything holds up

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by wavyyyy

Well I did that on the stock clutch and yeah it’s definitely better but still shitty unless I shift at max 12 mph lol

I don't know if you've had any other later model manual BMWs, but you're making it out to be shittier than it really is. You just have to accept that a slightly slower 1-2 shift is actually faster. And it has nothing to nothing to do with the clutch. It's gearbox and the ECU.

[John4C]

[QUOTE=mark_g80_mt;30177387]

Originally Posted by mark_g80_mt

Update: please make sure you run under 700TQ which is now the found limit of above set up.

To push more you need: both ceramic and upgraded pressure plate which is a slight added cost, still the only working alternative to stock

Ceramic and Ceramic w/Pressure plate to be safe above 700tq? Or Organic and Ceramic w/Pressure plate?

How does that impact drivability?

[mark_g80_mt]

Originally Posted by John4C

Ceramic and Ceramic w/Pressure plate to be safe above 700tq? Or Organic and Ceramic w/Pressure plate?

How does that impact drivability?

No known installs so far.
I would imagine a stiffer pedal and rougher engagement.

[John4C]

Originally Posted by mark_g80_mt

No known installs so far.
I would imagine a stiffer pedal and rougher engagement.

How was the 700tq limit of the O/C/n configuration determined? Did you have the clutch fail at that level?

[mark_g80_mt]

Originally Posted by John4C

How was the 700tq limit of the O/C/n configuration determined? Did you have the clutch fail at that level?

Just slipped when a fellow member was dyno tuning E55 FBO stock turbos and fuel system

[wavyyyy]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

I don't know if you've had any other later model manual BMWs, but you're making it out to be shittier than it really is. You just have to accept that a slightly slower 1-2 shift is actually faster. And it has nothing to nothing to do with the clutch. It's gearbox and the ECU.

How would a slightly slower shift be faster?

[Indo Rider]

I mean shifting slightly slower to make sure the engine doesn't bog across the shift, which would cost more to your overall ET than the time for the shift itself. I'm not 100% sure what causes it, but not getting off the gas pedal enough during the shift seems to play a part. Even if you can very quickly get it into 2nd and back on throttle, if you loose too much boost or get the "shift bog", then you'll be moving slower than if you had purposely shifted slower to get a clean shift.

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

I mean shifting slightly slower to make sure the engine doesn't bog across the shift, which would cost more to your overall ET than the time for the shift itself. I'm not 100% sure what causes it, but not getting off the gas pedal enough during the shift seems to play a part. Even if you can very quickly get it into 2nd and back on throttle, if you loose too much boost or get the "shift bog", then you'll be moving slower than if you had purposely shifted slower to get a clean shift.

I second this. When I slam 1-2 and drop the clutch it bogs the car down. When I wait for the rev to drop for a sec then let out the clutch into 2nd I can chirp the tires and the car is actually more in boost than the prior situation. Weird but okay. Felt quicker as well, feels like as if the car is cutting power to protect the drivetrain when I shock it with a harsh 1-2

[PLF69]

Originally Posted by BrendanZ0402

I second this. When I slam 1-2 and drop the clutch it bogs the car down. When I wait for the rev to drop for a sec then let out the clutch into 2nd I can chirp the tires and the car is actually more in boost than the prior situation. Weird but okay. Felt quicker as well, feels like as if the car is cutting power to protect the drivetrain when I shock it with a harsh 1-2

I also felt this on track, these cars are quite powerful dans can put a real strain on the drivetrain, I wouldn't be surprised the manufacturer incorporates some kind of protection to make sure we don't blow them up before end of warranty.

[BrendanZ0402]

Originally Posted by PLF69

I also felt this on track, these cars are quite powerful dans can put a real strain on the drivetrain, I wouldn't be surprised the manufacturer incorporates some kind of protection to make sure we don't blow them up before end of warranty.

On my track I live in 3rd and 4th so 3-4 shift actually felt fine when rushed. I think it’s 1-2 and 2-3 that one needs to be patient with. 470 whp is no joke!

[wavyyyy]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

I mean shifting slightly slower to make sure the engine doesn't bog across the shift, which would cost more to your overall ET than the time for the shift itself. I'm not 100% sure what causes it, but not getting off the gas pedal enough during the shift seems to play a part. Even if you can very quickly get it into 2nd and back on throttle, if you loose too much boost or get the "shift bog", then you'll be moving slower than if you had purposely shifted slower to get a clean shift.

This I fully agree with. I just wish it was possible to do it quicker.

[Tall Tom Cruise]

Originally Posted by AllNatty

Just got my PTB clutch installed. Same setup as mentioned before. Shop had no issues and fits perfectly. Will update again after a thousand miles or so of breaking it in.

Might be too early, but how does it feel compared to the stock clutch?

[AllNatty]

Originally Posted by Tall Tom Cruise

Might be too early, but how does it feel compared to the stock clutch?

Feels very similar to stock, just a bit heavier feel. Still very easy to engage and drive. Haven't put big power down yet. My ECU got locked somehow while switching tunes. Had to send it to Femto again.

[Tall Tom Cruise]

Originally Posted by AllNatty

Feels very similar to stock, just a bit heavier feel. Still very easy to engage and drive. Haven't put big power down yet. My ECU got locked somehow while switching tunes. Had to send it to Femto again.

Dude, I would flip out. The 2-3 weeks without my car (during unlock) was terrible. You know how it is without your car... you just are sitting at home staring at the wall lol.

Also, go into your settings on the bmw app and turn off auto updates options. If you don't, your ecu will lock up again if an update is pushed.

My clutch came in a few days go. Thinking of just selling it on the forum now. It's new in box. I'm running dme stage 2 now at 640whp and the stock clutch seems to be doing fine.. are you planning to run more power than this?

[AllNatty]

Originally Posted by Tall Tom Cruise

Dude, I would flip out. The 2-3 weeks without my car (during unlock) was terrible. You know how it is without your car... you just are sitting at home staring at the wall lol.

Also, go into your settings on the bmw app and turn off auto updates options. If you don't, your ecu will lock up again if an update is pushed.

My clutch came in a few days go. Thinking of just selling it on the forum now. It's new in box. I'm running dme stage 2 now at 640whp and the stock clutch seems to be doing fine.. are you planning to run more power than this?

It's torture brother. I'm doing some tuning with F80 Paul and he's made big numbers with E50 blends. 720whp seems pretty average

[hotsauce_bukkake]

Considering ordering the PTB or/si/s combination but I'm unsure of which option to choose when considering the torsional damper. Any insight? Or does it really matter beyond the feel of the clutch? I would assume damper vs rigid would be closer to the stock feel. I'm not a "clutch master" (see what I did there) so educate me please!

[vladdy3f]

I already ordered the clutchmasters clutch. going for install next week. will keep everyone in the loop.

[BMWnation]

Originally Posted by Tall Tom Cruise

Dude, I would flip out. The 2-3 weeks without my car (during unlock) was terrible. You know how it is without your car... you just are sitting at home staring at the wall lol.

Also, go into your settings on the bmw app and turn off auto updates options. If you don't, your ecu will lock up again if an update is pushed.

My clutch came in a few days go. Thinking of just selling it on the forum now. It's new in box. I'm running dme stage 2 now at 640whp and the stock clutch seems to be doing fine.. are you planning to run more power than this?

Which tune are you running? Good to hear the clutch is holding up well so far.
I’m hoping to do ECU unlock soon. Looking to do stage 1 that should suffice for me.
What’s stage one power output?

Thx

[Tall Tom Cruise]

Originally Posted by BMWnation

Which tune are you running? Good to hear the clutch is holding up well so far.
I’m hoping to do ECU unlock soon. Looking to do stage 1 that should suffice for me.
What’s stage one power output?

Thx

Dme tuning's stage 2 91. I misspoke, it's really around 580 wheel here on CA 91 octane. 640 is the crank #. Kind of misleading DME posts the crank #'s on their website.

Not sure but I never really saw the point in just stage 1. Just get a set of DP's and gain that extra 30/40whp lol. Not sure of stage one but they have that info on their website I think