[Giak]

Regardless the ride quality and comfort, does it drive better with KW has? I mean spirited driving, do you feel more the car in your hands? Sharper and more direct reactions? Better feeling?

[Hit_Apex]

Originally Posted by Giak

I am also considering to install the KW HAS kit, but i will set it to the minimum drop of 15mm front and 10/12mm rear.
In my opinion there is no need to install swaybar endlinks for such minimal drop, since it is not introducing any preload to swaybars. Only reason to have them is if you want to corner weight the car.

About KW HAS kit, do you consider it an upgrade from the performance point of view also? I mean lower bodyroll, better handling, etc.

Once you introduce height adjustability in all four corners with a HAS kit, preload and corner weighting automatically come into play. At that point it’s a matter of precision and tolerance. Most won’t notice corner imbalances or preload effects when your goal is looks. If you want better handling and are in tune with car response, these things start to matter. This means corner balancing and if you can’t get balanced stock because of preload you will need end links.

[Giak]

I agree on the importance of corner balancing. But, with the HAS kit and not with proper coilovers (KW V3/Ohlins), if you change the height of a corner you are also modifing the spring preload, because the height adjustment is not indipendent from spring preload. It would make more unbalances than benefits and it doesn't matter if you have adjustable droplinks or not.
In my opinion HAS springs work fine only if you have simmetrical settings on the same axle.

[WhiteF30M6Spd]

HAS kits are marketing BS. What they really are is a lowering kit. If you just throw on a HAS it's for looks. Which is fine if that's what you want. Otherwise you need coilovers with a proper adjustable perch to lower & and actually see meaningful performance.

[M3ANG81]

Just had my last few suspensionsecrets parts fitted. In total it’s the below:

Offset caster bushing
Rear toe arms
Rear traction arms
Adjustable strut tops

Car handling in corners is actually insane now, powering out of a corner doesn’t result in the rear breaking loose it just grips more which is a strange sensation at first, steering feel is improved but not night and day.

Slight increase in NVH but less than expected

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by M3ANG81

Just had my last few suspensionsecrets parts fitted. In total it’s the below:

Offset caster bushing
Rear toe arms
Rear traction arms
Adjustable strut tops

Car handling in corners is actually insane now, powering out of a corner doesn’t result in the rear breaking loose it just grips more which is a strange sensation at first, steering feel is improved but not night and day.

Slight increase in NVH but less than expected

What camber and toe you running in the rear?

[M3ANG81]

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

What camber and toe you running in the rear?

[Giak]

Perfect! Exactly how SS suggests.
Do you have the camber plates at which position? Are you lowered?

[M3ANG81]

Originally Posted by Giak

Perfect! Exactly how SS suggests.
Do you have the camber plates at which position? Are you lowered?

Camber plates on the first notch I beleive, front eibach springs only. Done 500km so car with this setup, NVH really is crazy low

[Giak]

I finally received my Suspension Secrets order, will proceed installing the parts on Monday.
Unfortunately they didn't include any instruction.

1) the camber plates arrived with 8 hex bolts (4 each plate). They are shorter than the OEM bolts. Should I use the ones supplied instead of the OEM bolts? The OEM ones look sturdier.

2) Instead of the non-offset front control arm bushes, they sent me by mistake the offset caster bushes. I am afraid that, together with the SS camber plates, they will give too much caster for a road use. I am thinking to send them back in the exchange of the non offset ones, which are also sealed for better protection of the spherical bearings. What do you think?

3) the rear toe arms don't include a lock-out kit. Should I reuse the eccentric bolts or they must be replaced?

About the torque specs should I use the OEM values?

Thanks

[Giak]

Anyone? I’ll be doing the installation tomorrow

[Cyber Logic]

Originally Posted by Giak

Anyone? I’ll be doing the installation tomorrow

I unfortunately don't have answers for you but an anxiously awaiting the same answer. I also just got mine and have the same questions in regards to the bolts it came with.

Are you planning on removing both axle nuts or going with the method that just loosens the control arms for it to droop enough? About to attempt this myself as well and am going to be trying the loosen control arm method and am trying to find any others who have done this method to make sure it works like shown in the one video on it.

[Giak]

Mine is rwd so there is no need to remove the axle nuts. I should be able to remove the front struts with less effort.

[M4Rhino]

Received my order as well. The traction arms and toe arms look exactly the same. Nothing is labels. No instructions. Literally no verbiage. Its also supposed to include lockout kit for the rear toe arms but not exactly sure what that looks like. I did email them already, awaiting response.

[SLE3PER]

Originally Posted by M4Rhino

Received my order as well. The traction arms and toe arms look exactly the same. Nothing is labels. No instructions. Literally no verbiage. Its also supposed to include lockout kit for the rear toe arms but not exactly sure what that looks like. I did email them already, awaiting response.

They are literally the exact same part. Lockout out kit should have a bolt and nut with a flat plate. Similar to the photo I attached.

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by SLE3PER

They are literally the exact same part.

Which is why I’ve said in a previous post that anyone not wanting to buy both rear toe and traction arms can buy just one set and try traction arm config first and if they don’t like it that way and think they can benefit more from it being in the rear toe configuration, they can swap it and the them that way until they can get a second set for the other function.

[///M4Lou]

Originally Posted by Giak

I finally received my Suspension Secrets order, will proceed installing the parts on Monday.
Unfortunately they didn't include any instruction.

1) the camber plates arrived with 8 hex bolts (4 each plate). They are shorter than the OEM bolts. Should I use the ones supplied instead of the OEM bolts? The OEM ones look sturdier.

2) Instead of the non-offset front control arm bushes, they sent me by mistake the offset caster bushes. I am afraid that, together with the SS camber plates, they will give too much caster for a road use. I am thinking to send them back in the exchange of the non offset ones, which are also sealed for better protection of the spherical bearings. What do you think?

About the torque specs should I use the OEM values?

Thanks

Man - cannot help much except that even w/ TTY, I've re-used minimal wear/minimal usage fasteners before.

Are those offset bushings the same as inner thrust arm bushings?? If so and if your RWD, make sure you are putting in what you want as that job (I may have to do in the future) is an ass-whipping. I've done xdrive. Not bad there.

Good luck and take pics!

[Giak]

I did the installation today.
I answer my own questions:
1) I used the OEM bolts on the camber plates (new ones). They give me more confidence.

2) I decided not to install the offset bushes and wait to get the non-offset set. Actually I achieved 8.45° of caster with the camber plates only (it was 7.50° oem).

3) installed rear toe arms using eccentric bolts in "zero" position.

[Giak]

Still don't know if I like the KW HAS. I didn't have the chance to drive more than a couple of miles. It seems a bit harder and hope it doesn't lose grip on uneven roads. I am gonna wait they settle and then I will give my honest opinion after adjusting height and checking alignment again.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Giak

Perfect! Exactly how SS suggests.
Do you have the camber plates at which position? Are you lowered?

He suggests this alignment because otherwise he'd never sell his parts lol

[Giak]

Anybody else found the SS toe arms a bit tricky to adjust? Not easy to tight the locking nuts without changing the alignment at all. Also the thread of the adjusting nut is very sensitive to small variations.
Any specific procedure I am missing?

[SwankPeRFection]

Hold the adjuster with one wrench as you do the nuts.