[SLE3PER]

Originally Posted by wowwitsgau

You want the lock out kit when ordering the rear toe arm because the lock out replaces the eccentric bolts that are used to adjust toe on the stock arms, which will become unnecessary because toe will be adjusted through the lengthening/shortening of the arms directly

Thanks for answering that! Makes sense now.

[johnny_slo]

I am a bit confused with the Suspension secrets front monoballs, namely, which one is the correct one:
Suspension Secrets Solid Front Control Arm Bushes: https://shop.suspensionsecrets.co.uk...ush-bmw-g80-m3

or

Suspension Secrets Front Offset Caster Bushes: https://shop.suspensionsecrets.co.uk...-g80-m3-g82-m4

[SwankPeRFection]

^^^ Either one fits and works, but one is offset to provide dynamic camber as you turn the wheels and the other one doesn’t. Both provide a solid bushing to get rid of play and improve steering feel.

[M3ANG81]

I have the SS camber plates and rear toe arms, and will be doing traction arms and offset caster front bushings next, their product is incredibly high quality and they’ll send you a Geo setup for your shop to do based on what you want.

[Giak]

Originally Posted by wowwitsgau

Hey Giak,

To add another data point here, earlier this year I was also on the search for better steering feel in my quest to make the car feel more analog/raw. I ended up adding the following 4 parts from SS:

Camber/caster plates
Front offset bushing
Rear traction arm
Rear toe arm

The first two are probably what I would recommend you to do first, as your goal sounds pretty similar to mine. With them installed I have noticed a higher return-to-centering force and less play/slop at the wheel. The camber/caster plates and the front offset bushing actually work synergistically, with the camber plates achieving their increase in caster by offsetting the top of the strut backwards, and the front offset bushing doing so by pulling the bottom of the strut forward. According to SS this then also keeps the wheel/tire centered in the wheel arch, decreasing the likelihood of fender rubbing, which ended up to be true in my case

There are some caveats that I do have to note, however:[LIST=1][*]Suspension Secrets specifically mentioned that each of these caster-increasing parts (camber plates + offset bushing) should add about 1.5° of caster separately, and when combined, should increase caster by a total of 3°, yet when I installed these parts, I was only able to achieve a gain of 1° total (I was at 7.8°/7.9° before and ended up at 8.8° after). I even had SS verify they were installed correctly (but I was already confident that they were, since I made sure that the bushings were pressed in with the offset making the arm at its [...]

Thank you! This very helpful!
I didn't expect there is such a big gap between the first and the second position of the camber plates, that's not very good for a fine tuning. How difficult it is to move from one position from another? Just need to take the front wheels off the ground?
Also, how much increase in NVH did you notice after the installation?

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by Giak

Thank you! This very helpful!
I didn't expect there is such a big gap between the first and the second position of the camber plates, that's not very good for a fine tuning. How difficult it is to move from one position from another? Just need to take the front wheels off the ground?
Also, how much increase in NVH did you notice after the installation?

With the SS plates you have to take the shock and plate down from the strut tower mount up top to change positions. They are not like other versions that you just move around and try to lock down after adjustment. You set it and it’s not going anywhere. They are geared toward serious track duty and won’t ever shift out of place no matter what. That said, you’d have to decide what setting you want before mounting the shock assembly into the car. It’s a little bit more work lowering them down enough to change positions, but it’s not like you’re going to keep flipping between the three of them. That said, this is kind of why I would do them if you absolutely need more camber/caster than the offset bushing can offer (for you and your feel/need out of YOUR car, not someone else).

I wonder if there’s anyone in your area that might have an M equipped with SS components to get a ride in before you purchase/decide.

[Giak]

Unfortunately not... I may ask the Italian M club, but I don't think anybody bought parts from UK. Most of the people here do what their mechanic/tuner suggests and sells.

So, I wouldn't be able to change the camber setting in 15 mins in my garage the morning before going to a track day and put it back in the previous position right after, without having to unbolt many things. I used to have Cusco camber plates in a Subaru impreza STi (20 years ago) and I could slide the plates from the top pretty easily, just lifting up some weight from the wheels. Those from SS don't slide but have 3 fixed positions and they seem more tricky to adjust.

Also, I see all the monoball joints in SS components are not rubber sealed, could that be an issue in the long term? I don't want cluncking noise after the first year, when some dirt or dust get into the ball joints and they begin to get some play. Is this not going to happen for some reason?

[SwankPeRFection]

No, these plates are not like the ones you’re used to, but regardless, other alignment measurements change dynamically when moving camber around, so moving camber in and out like you used to isn’t optimal either even though I’ve heard many do and tout as the benefit of the normal design plates. I personally am one of those people who runs what they brought.

As for the bearings, they have extremely tight tolerances and because of that, there won’t be any of that clanking bs you get with other ones… at least this is what they advertise and say in their videos. You really should probably go to their YouTube channel and watch every single one to get a good idea of what you’re buying into.

If you think you’re in a super harsh climate and literally have had personal experience with your other car’s undercarriages and components getting quickly ruined by that, then maybe you should just run stock CSL front hubs for the camber gain and rear arms from that same car and you’d get a non-adjustable OEM solution to what you’re looking for.

[WhiteF30M6Spd]

This is why I think the SPL control arms are a good opinion they have camber adjustment and allow you to keep a lot of the OE bushings if you choose that.

[Lykosis]

God, I hope I'm asking this question properly

Are there any differences between the Falline/Millway monoball spherical front end and the SS Front offset bushings/Solid Front Control Arm Bushes?

[Giak]

Originally Posted by Lykosis

God, I hope I'm asking this question properly

Are there any differences between the Falline/Millway monoball spherical front end and the SS Front offset bushings/Solid Front Control Arm Bushes?

Fall-line and Millway are both monoball spherical and remove the flexibility of the oem rubber mounts, but don't modify the position of the front arms. Instead, SS makes 2 different types of bushes, one very similar to the two above and another which has an offset position and allows to get more caster angle.

[Giak]

Originally Posted by wowwitsgau

Hey Giak,

To add another data point here, earlier this year I was also on the search for better steering feel in my quest to make the car feel more analog/raw. I ended up adding the following 4 parts from SS:

1. Camber/caster plates
2. Front offset bushing
3. Rear traction arm
4. Rear toe arm

The first two are probably what I would recommend you to do first, as your goal sounds pretty similar to mine. With them installed I have noticed a higher return-to-centering force and less play/slop at the wheel. The camber/caster plates and the front offset bushing actually work synergistically, with the camber plates achieving their increase in caster by offsetting the top of the strut backwards, and the front offset bushing doing so by pulling the bottom of the strut forward. According to SS this then also keeps the wheel/tire centered in the wheel arch, decreasing the likelihood of fender rubbing, which ended up to be true in my case

There are some caveats that I do have to note, however:

1. Suspension Secrets specifically mentioned that each of these caster-increasing parts (camber plates + offset bushing) should add about 1.5° of caster separately, and when combined, should increase caster by a total of 3°, yet when I installed these parts, I was only able to achieve a gain of 1° total (I was at 7.8°/7.9° before and ended up at 8.8° after). I even had SS verify they were installed correctly (but I was already confident that they were, since I made sure that the bushings were pressed in with the offset making the arm at its shortest effective length). I’d be interested in finding out if you experience the same if you end up going this route
2. For the camber plates specifically, I actually found that the first setting out of three (the least aggressive, “fast road” setup) kept my camber the exact same as it was with the stock top mount, at -2.2°/-2.1°. I’m mildly lowered ~20mm in the front, on kw v3’s to keep the front wheel gap about the same as the rear on my G80 (which has a larger front wheel gap than the other models stock-for-stock). On the middle setting of the plates, I ended up at around -3°, which I felt was too aggressive for the street; ideally I wanted around -2.5° which I wasn’t able to achieve with this combination of parts. SS had originally told me the first setting achieves -1.8° and the middle achieves -2.5° depending on ride height. However, I now believe that these settings apply at stock ride height (since you have stated you’re at -1.75° stock, corroborating with what I’ve experienced). Just know that these plates effectively offer a stock equivalent camber setting, and two other settings which actually increase camber

The last two parts help the car feel more solid, especially during high-speed compression events and any time there is fore/aft weight transfer. Also, as SwankPeRFection mentioned earlier, they are indeed the same part (moreover, also the same part as on the F8X platform for anyone wondering)

TLDR: I’d recommend at least the first two parts as these help with steering feel the most. The downside is that they’re way harder to install than the rear arms, but I believe it is worth it in the end. Overall I’m pretty satisfied with how the car feels now and if I were to do it all over again (maybe on the future G8X platform?) I would 100% do the camber/caster plates and the front offset bushings at the very minimum

If I were you and didn’t care about the front wheel gap/ride height, I’d keep the stock springs and install just the camber/caster plate and front offset bushings, with the camber plate in the middle setting for -2.5°, which is perfect for the street (IMHO). You also get to retain higher ground clearance in the front, which I feel is super underrated in a daily driver


Hope that helps!

How much increase in NVH did you notice after the installation?
Do you use the car as a daily?
How many miles you have on SS parts? Do you know if they require any maintenance over time?
thx

[Giak]

I am finally taking the route of ordering both the CS+ Hanlding pack and the front control arm bushes.
I have a doubt between offset or non-offset bushes. I will already have more caster from the camber plates, will I need the extra caster from the offset bushes also?
Another difference between the offset and non-offset bushes is that the non-offset ones have sealed bearings, while the offset version runs uncovered. Could that difference have an impact on lifespan, considering this is my daily car and I don’t want to deal with noise or issues in the long period?

[pdxgardener]

Is it possible to adjust the camber plates in place, without dropping the strut? If not, do others like Millway allow this adjustment? This might be a dumb question, sorry about that if so

[Giak]

Originally Posted by pdxgardener

Is it possible to adjust the camber plates in place, without dropping the strut? If not, do others like Millway allow this adjustment? This might be a dumb question, sorry about that if so

The answer is no for the SS camber plates. Don't know for other brands.

[viciousmo]

Originally Posted by pdxgardener

Is it possible to adjust the camber plates in place, without dropping the strut? If not, do others like Millway allow this adjustment? This might be a dumb question, sorry about that if so

Yeah, you just have to lift the car and remove the plastic trim piece over the strut.

[djpeetur]

Will buying Millway camber plate improve the handling characteristics over the Oem top hats? I do not track the car, and have spl lower control arm to adjust camber also but just wondering if adding the camber plates will another layer of improvement.

[SwankPeRFection]

I don’t believe the Millways have any caster gain benefits in them. Yeah, you can adjust them without a ton of work, but they can also slip. I personally would rather have a locked down solid adjustment, but that’s just me. I don’t change stuff around all the time. I dial it in and keep it like that and go with it.

[wowwitsgau]

Originally Posted by Giak

How much increase in NVH did you notice after the installation?
Do you use the car as a daily?
How many miles you have on SS parts? Do you know if they require any maintenance over time?
thx

Not enough increase in NVH to be noticeable, it’s a daily but I don’t have a normal commute for work or anything. I prob have less than 5000mi on them, but don’t expect them to have any problems even though they don’t have boots. I’ve had full sphericals on my s2000 for about 7 years now without any issues. SS also claim that these are maintenance free

[WhiteF30M6Spd]

Originally Posted by djpeetur

Will buying Millway camber plate improve the handling characteristics over the Oem top hats? I do not track the car, and have spl lower control arm to adjust camber also but just wondering if adding the camber plates will another layer of improvement.

No, the only thing the plates would do is possible give you more camber and or caster. If you do not track the car then there would be no improvement to your normal daily street driving.

[Giak]

Originally Posted by wowwitsgau

Not enough increase in NVH to be noticeable, it’s a daily but I don’t have a normal commute for work or anything. I prob have less than 5000mi on them, but don’t expect them to have any problems even though they don’t have boots. I’ve had full sphericals on my s2000 for about 7 years now without any issues. SS also claim that these are maintenance free

So you don't feel like you have too much caster with both SS camber plates and offset bushes? SS told me that each part adds around 0.5° of caster, it means 1 full degree if you have both. They suggested me the non-offset version for a car mostly driven on the road equipped with their camber plates.

[M4Rhino]

Just picked up my second g82. First one being a 2023 RWD (traded) and now my new ordered 2026 Xdrive. I already have the KW HAS kit I pulled from my 2023 that I haven't installed yet. Wanting to do all of this all at the same time. This is a GREAT read and exactly what I was searching for!

Added to cart currently:
SS Adj. Rear Traction Arms
SS CS+ Handling Pack
SS Front Offset Caster Bushings
OR
SS Solid Front Contol Arm Bushings

Not sure which one to go with. This will not be my daily and used primarily for spirited driving/ track days.