[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by DJPoop

Can the remotes be programmed to the Homelink buttons? Also, what are the differences, if any, between your controller versus Dahler and SST? Thanks.

Yes, it can be programmed to the homelink. Our controller is more similar to the sst than the dahler for the simple fact that it can do 50% and not just open and close.

[DJPoop]

Originally Posted by Info@mad-us.com

Yes, it can be programmed to the homelink. Our controller is more similar to the sst than the dahler for the simple fact that it can do 50% and not just open and close.

Appreciate the response! Understandably you’re biased, so curious if any regular folks on here can point me to any reason this might be better than SST or vice-versa. Running intake and single midpipe currently. Thx.

[chris3g]

Not sure why you guys think the button in the car doesn’t control the physical valves, it absolutely does , in addition to the fake sound and the burble activation. In the DME calibration there is a separate map that is loaded when the exhaust button is off which is configured to keep the valves closed all the time except under high loads. When the button is on, control is returned to the engine setting and then efficient, sport, sport+ modes determine the valve position.

With an unlocked DME and adjustments to the relevant tables I am using the button in the car to go from 100% open to full closed, the same as you get with a controller. I actually removed and sold my SST as it’s redundant now. Of course that level of control is not possible without unlocking the DME but the button is still working in the same way, it’s just not as noticeable because sport+ is not opening the valves fully at low rpm.

[JTO24]

Originally Posted by chris3g

Not sure why you guys think the button in the car doesn’t control the physical valves, it absolutely does , in addition to the fake sound and the burble activation. In the DME calibration there is a separate map that is loaded when the exhaust button is off which is configured to keep the valves closed all the time except under high loads. When the button is on, control is returned to the engine setting and then efficient, sport, sport+ modes determine the valve position.

With an unlocked DME and adjustments to the relevant tables I am using the button in the car to go from 100% open to full closed, the same as you get with a controller. I actually removed and sold my SST as it’s redundant now. Of course that level of control is not possible without unlocking the DME but the button is still working in the same way, it’s just not as noticeable because sport+ is not opening the valves fully at low rpm.

Good to know... I guess since I've had my ASD coded off for so long coupled with my current controller, I forgot exactly what it did. I use it now for staying in sport+ and turning off the burbles for a cleaner sound when I want it.

However, I don't plan on unlocking my DME on the LCI so it'll be more of the same regarding this button's use.

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by JTO24

Good to know... I guess since I've had my ASD coded off for so long coupled with my current controller, I forgot exactly what it did. I use it now for staying in sport+ and turning off the burbles for a cleaner sound when I want it.

However, I don't plan on unlocking my DME on the LCI so it'll be more of the same regarding this button's use.

yes i agree if you aren't unlocking... ASD decoded, valve controller to keep valves open, and button off to turn off the burbles is a great way to go

[Info@mad-us.com]

Originally Posted by DJPoop

Appreciate the response! Understandably you’re biased, so curious if any regular folks on here can point me to any reason this might be better than SST or vice-versa. Running intake and single midpipe currently. Thx.

I wasn't being biased in my response. Our controller will do the same things the sst will do.

The only major difference you will notice between the two is the following

-Our controller will work on 2 valve car models as well as 1 valve car models . They sell 2 valve models and 1 valve versions.

-We include 2 remotes while they sell the 2nd remote separately.

- Our remote has 3 buttons 100% 50% and Oem. They have 4 buttons 100% 50% oem and close.

I think our remote looks way nicer but thats my bias

[mike@x-ph.com]

We are the largest SST vendor in the world; once the MAD controller is released, I expect us to become the largest vendor of this controller as well.

We compared both controllers and made a video on each (MAD video being edited as we speak)

SST has four buttons (open, close, 50%, stock)
MAD has three buttons (open, close, 50%)

SST wires are better quality
MAD remote is better quality

we never had any issues with the SST remoted breaking
and the MAD wires are Military-Spec, water, and fireproof, so I do not expect any problems there either

SST is offered with one remote (additional remote is an extra $22)
MAD is offered with two remotes

SST shipping is $20
MAD is free shipping

Functionality-wise, they do the same thing.

I think they are too similar to even matter; at the end of the day, they both work and cost about the same, and they do the job of opening and closing the valves. Just get whatever is in stock and / or on sale at the time. You won't regret your decision either way.

[mjj]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

We are the largest SST vendor in the world; once the MAD controller is released, I expect us to become the largest vendor of this controller as well.

We compared both controllers and made a video on each (MAD video being edited as we speak)

SST has four buttons (open, close, 50%, stock)
MAD has three buttons (open, close, 50%)

SST wires are better quality
MAD remote is better quality

we never had any issues with the SST remoted breaking
and the MAD wires are Military-Spec, water, and fireproof, so I do not expect any problems there either

SST is offered with one remote (additional remote is an extra $22)
MAD is offered with two remotes

SST shipping is $20
MAD is free shipping

Functionality-wise, they do the same thing.

I think they are too similar to even matter; at the end of the day, they both work and cost about the same, and they do the job of opening and closing the valves. Just get whatever is in stock and / or on sale at the time. You won't regret your decision either way.

Mike -dumb question. Has anybody installed just a valve controller on a stock exhaust? Is it worth it as a first step or am I just wasting my time and should jump to a mid-pipe + controller?

I think the valves open on sport plus isn’t bad even stock. But i like the manners of being in “efficient” mode for normal street driving. If I could go those street manners with a sound close to sport plus that would be ok with me.

Am I thinking about this wrong?

Also one last question, “if i installed just a valve controller with stock exhaust and opened the valves to a 100% open on efficient mode would I still get the “burbles”. I assume the answer is no.

[JTO24]

Originally Posted by mjj

Mike -dumb question. Has anybody installed just a valve controller on a stock exhaust? Is it worth it as a first step or am I just wasting my time and should jump to a mid-pipe + controller?

I think the valves open on sport plus isn’t bad even stock. But i like the manners of being in “efficient” mode for normal street driving. If I could go those street manners with a sound close to sport plus that would be ok with me.

Am I thinking about this wrong?

Also one last question, “if i installed just a valve controller with stock exhaust and opened the valves to a 100% open on efficient mode would I still get the “burbles”. I assume the answer is no.

Valve Controller on stock exhaust makes a surprising difference, IMO. I do think it's 100% necessary, even with a midpipe.

Having the ability to open the valves 100% is key. I sometimes like to drive in efficient with the valves 100% open. you won't get any burbles in this mode.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by mjj

Mike -dumb question. Has anybody installed just a valve controller on a stock exhaust? Is it worth it as a first step or am I just wasting my time and should jump to a mid-pipe + controller?

All the time, it makes a noticeable difference as well.
I do still recommend you pair it with a midpipe for the best results, but if you want to start with the controller only, you would not be the only one.

The valves being fully opened will make everything louder, including the burbles. But for a full control of the burble sound, you need a flash tune

[Info@mad-us.com]

These will be shipping hopefully by the end of the week. Thank you all for your patience.

[Info@mad-us.com]

Controllers are now shipping!

If you pre ordered expect a tracking to your email shortly!!!

[Berzerker]

Originally Posted by chris3g

Not sure why you guys think the button in the car doesn’t control the physical valves, it absolutely does , in addition to the fake sound and the burble activation. In the DME calibration there is a separate map that is loaded when the exhaust button is off which is configured to keep the valves closed all the time except under high loads. When the button is on, control is returned to the engine setting and then efficient, sport, sport+ modes determine the valve position.

With an unlocked DME and adjustments to the relevant tables I am using the button in the car to go from 100% open to full closed, the same as you get with a controller. I actually removed and sold my SST as it’s redundant now. Of course that level of control is not possible without unlocking the DME but the button is still working in the same way, it’s just not as noticeable because sport+ is not opening the valves fully at low rpm.

I'll have to look at it again, but I could have sworn even the button off, with ASD decoded, sport+ would make a noticeable in sound, implying the valves are opening.

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

I'll have to look at it again, but I could have sworn even the button off, with ASD decoded, sport+ would make a noticeable in sound, implying the valves are opening.

There is a difference in sound if you switch to sport plus from efficient with sound control button off , especially if you do it while driving, but it’s because of engine tuning difference, wastegate position, throttle position relative to pedal position difference, etc. but not exhaust flap position.

I’m very confident in how this works as I’ve tested it extensively on my car and I’m no longer using a valve controller as I was able to adjust the control maps in the tune to get 0-100% flap control with the button only.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by chris3g

There is a difference in sound if you switch to sport plus from efficient with sound control button off , especially if you do it while driving, but it’s because of engine tuning difference, wastegate position, throttle position relative to pedal position difference, etc. but not exhaust flap position.

I’m very confident in how this works as I’ve tested it extensively on my car and I’m no longer using a valve controller as I was able to adjust the control maps in the tune to get 0-100% flap control with the button only.

+1

[Info@mad-us.com]

[Info@mad-us.com]

Here is some neat info from user MASHCT Showing the difference a valve controller can make on his M2

Mods:
-Dinan X Midpipe
-MAD axle back exhaust
-Valve controller

IDLE:
100% open eco mode is 83db
OEM setting, eco mode is 78db

Full Rev
50% Mode Eco: 89db
50% Mode M2: 95db (got burbles, no cracks/bangs)

OEM Eco: 107db
OEM M2: 112db (got burbles and cracks/bangs)

100% Mode 115db, M2 mode activated

[KCLARK]

Originally Posted by chris3g

There is a difference in sound if you switch to sport plus from efficient with sound control button off , especially if you do it while driving, but it’s because of engine tuning difference, wastegate position, throttle position relative to pedal position difference, etc. but not exhaust flap position.

I’m very confident in how this works as I’ve tested it extensively on my car and I’m no longer using a valve controller as I was able to adjust the control maps in the tune to get 0-100% flap control with the button only.

which tune do you have, and are you saying with your tune when you use the exhaust button it only gives you the option of closed flap or 100% fully open flap, but is this with burbles or you have none?

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by KCLARK

which tune do you have, and are you saying with your tune when you use the exhaust button it only gives you the option of closed flap or 100% fully open flap, but is this with burbles or you have none?

Yes that’s what I am saying, I have a custom tune on bm3 and I sent my tuner the specific tables with the settings that I wanted for the exhaust flaps and they put them into the tune for me. Burbles are a separate setting, when sound control button is on you can choose to have them enabled (default) or disable them always.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by chris3g

Yes that’s what I am saying, I have a custom tune on bm3 and I sent my tuner the specific tables with the settings that I wanted for the exhaust flaps and they put them into the tune for me. Burbles are a separate setting, when sound control button is on you can choose to have them enabled (default) or disable them always.

what exactly did they do. are they forcing the valves open on all modes using your tune?

[chris3g]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

what exactly did they do. are they forcing the valves open on all modes using your tune?

no, if you want that BM3 already has an open mode override that you can enable from the app as a default option. My issue with it is their implementation makes the exhaust button no longer work to close the valves, which is the main feature i wanted.

what i did was spend a little of time figuring out what each table in the calibration relating to the exhaust flaps did and modified them so the behavior was how i wanted, which is -

Sport+ 100% open
Sport/ efficient OEM (mostly, it's actually slightly different because making sport+ be 100% open requires changing the base table which affects all the modes)
Exhaust Button off - closed with oem safety in any mode.

once i figured out what the settings were for each table, i just asked my tuner to implement those tables into my actual tune.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by chris3g

no, if you want that BM3 already has an open mode override that you can enable from the app as a default option. My issue with it is their implementation makes the exhaust button no longer work to close the valves, which is the main feature i wanted.

what i did was spend a little of time figuring out what each table in the calibration relating to the exhaust flaps did and modified them so the behavior was how i wanted, which is -

Sport+ 100% open
Sport/ efficient OEM (mostly, it's actually slightly different because making sport+ be 100% open requires changing the base table which affects all the modes)
Exhaust Button off - closed with oem safety in any mode.

once i figured out what the settings were for each table, i just asked my tuner to implement those tables into my actual tune.

got it