[Steveo]

When you’re putting back to stock, you’ll definitely need ISTA to put the solenoid motor into the installation position.
There is a workshop function to do this in ISTA.

Originally Posted by ChrisM4

I manually opened the valves tonight using a zip tie and I think anyone considering an exhaust should try this first.

The sound improvement is great and what's cool about it is that with the exhaust button in the center console you can control if you have burbles or not but the sound is very similar between the two.

I did it slightly differently, I left the controller plugged in and mounted it on the far side bolt and used a zip tie on the other bolt hole as a backup. It'll take literally 5 mins to put back to stock.

[ChrisM4]

Originally Posted by Steveo

When you’re putting back to stock, you’ll definitely need ISTA to put the solenoid motor into the installation position.
There is a workshop function to do this in ISTA.

Doesn't it default to closed when the car is turned off?

[ChrisM4]

Originally Posted by Davem4

This how I did the exhaust valve mod, took about 10mins and sounds much better. I used a hose clamp to hold valve open so it couldn’t rattle or come loose. For servo attachment just put a little pressure on the side and it slides out with the spring so can put it back on completely. Just wanted to share another option. Attachment 2734151

Attachment 2734152

Attachment 2734153

I just redid my setup today and did this approach. It's awesome and looks completely stock. I used zip ties instead of hose clamps. (will replace plastic zip ties with metal zip ties later)

Great suggestion on this mod.

[vetteflier]

As I was the first to do this almost 18 months ago, I can tell you the plastic ties do not melt. Not on hot exhaust piping.

[MMM.PWR]

I just did this today after debating whether to spend $600 on a valve controller or not (Dahler). It was extremely easy, and I used zip ties. I'll keep an eye on them now and then. The car isn't even loud with the valves open so I see no reason to even get a controller. I just hope there's no drone on the highway (shouldn't be).

[ChrisM4]

Originally Posted by MMM.PWR

I just did this today after debating whether to spend $600 on a valve controller or not (Dahler). It was extremely easy, and I used zip ties. I'll keep an eye on them now and then. The car isn't even loud with the valves open so I see no reason to even get a controller. I just hope there's no drone on the highway (shouldn't be).

There's no drone in my manual 2021 M4. I have all resonators/cats in place though.

[MMM.PWR]

Originally Posted by ChrisM4

There's no drone in my manual 2021 M4. I have all resonators/cats in place though.

I have a stock exhaust. The thing with the manuals - they run at higher RPMs at cruising / highway speeds.

I know when I had the AA midpipe + axleback I had terrible drone, especially around 2K, hoping the valves alone don't affect anything.

[alfi888]

Hi everyone!

Has anyone tried to do this on an European spec M3, one with OPF as well?
I wonder if it’s going to be ok or it will interfere somehow.

In case you do the tie modification with a wire and want to get back to the factory setup can you reconnect the actuator without having to use the ISTA?
I suppose you should be able to do that but you have to realign the valve with the actuator motor and this may take couple of tries.

Thx

[MMM.PWR]

Originally Posted by alfi888

I suppose you should be able to do that but you have to realign the valve with the actuator motor and this may take couple of tries.

You don't need to do any coding. Mount the servos back on the car and plug them in. Start the car and hit the exhaust button, that should move the servos and catch the valves as they move. I did this in the past when reinstalling my OEM exhaust.

[alfi888]

Originally Posted by MMM.PWR

You don't need to do any coding. Mount the servos back on the car and plug them in. Start the car and hit the exhaust button, that should move the servos and catch the valves as they move. I did this in the past when reinstalling my OEM exhaust.

Thanks. Then it should be easy to revert to OEM in case it is necessary.

[RACE M3]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I asked for the default to be factory and to open when it's activated


the reason for doing so is to keep the valves closed during cold start and i will activate it when needed

Have the bugs been worked out? If so can you PM me a shipped price to 33976

[madmedman]

Originally Posted by alfi888

Hi everyone!

Has anyone tried to do this on an European spec M3, one with OPF as well?
I wonder if it’s going to be ok or it will interfere somehow.

In case you do the tie modification with a wire and want to get back to the factory setup can you reconnect the actuator without having to use the ISTA?
I suppose you should be able to do that but you have to realign the valve with the actuator motor and this may take couple of tries.

Thx

Hey,
I have done this on my EU car and no issues at all.

If you want to return to stock, you just get a screwdriver and align the valve to the actuator. There is no need to use ista.
That's all there is to it.

[alfi888]

Originally Posted by madmedman

Hey,
I have done this on my EU car and no issues at all.

If you want to return to stock, you just get a screwdriver and align the valve to the actuator. There is no need to use ista.
That's all there is to it.

Thank you! I will probably try and do this first and in case it is going to be too loud I will get a valve controller.
But I really don’t think it is going to be the case

[madmedman]

Originally Posted by alfi888

Thank you! I will probably try and do this first and in case it is going to be too loud I will get a valve controller.
But I really don’t think it is going to be the case

Yea. Free mod. You will be surprised. It can be loud but in a good way and not obnoxious. And if the rest or your exhaust is stock then you'll be okay.

[alfi888]

I opened the valves fully and removed the inner piece and spring that are connecting the valves with the actuator, as described above here.
All good, sound is great not very loud.
I am happy about it.
I had a CEL after a while. Checked it with OBD fusion and it was P24FD - something with the particle filter.
I cleared it and everything is fine now.
I will see if it is going to reappear or not.
Hopefully not.

[Simon H]

Originally Posted by madmedman

Hey,
I have done this on my EU car and no issues at all.

If you want to return to stock, you just get a screwdriver and align the valve to the actuator. There is no need to use ista.
That's all there is to it.

Hi Mate,
Just to check, you are running standard exhaust, OPFs and all ?, do you get any more pops and bangs, or is it just more perceived volume, from valves open at 100% all the time ?.

[vinha916]

so if someone wants to play around, there is a remote module that can be close/opened as long we can tab in. Of course, a voltage meter is required to check whether is 12v or input from the existing wiring plug.

If all is tested and works , of course, nêed a new connector for male and female.

$200 is not worth the trouble however if someone is interested on figuring out stuff, this is a fun wêekend project/

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Tran...08CCVJWL9&th=1

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by vinha916

so if someone wants to play around, there is a remote module that can be close/opened as long we can tab in. Of course, a voltage meter is required to check whether is 12v or input from the existing wiring plug.

If all is tested and works , of course, nêed a new connector for male and female.

$200 is not worth the trouble however if someone is interested on figuring out stuff, this is a fun wêekend project/

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Tran...08CCVJWL9&th=1

So basically a $20 diy dinan valve controller, nice

[madmedman]

Originally Posted by Simon H

Hi Mate,
Just to check, you are running standard exhaust, OPFs and all ?, do you get any more pops and bangs, or is it just more perceived volume, from valves open at 100% all the time ?.

Hello. Sorry just saw your message.

With this mod, you get the maximum volume all the time but the overall volume is not increased. I hope I am making sense. Hence it would only make the pops and bangs more pronounced. I am currently running 200 cells, VT midpipe and MPE. its extremely loud.

I ran this mod for a while but used to be very nervous when starting my car late or early in the morning as the cold start becomes unbearably loud. So I had no choice but to go for a valve controller and turn cold start off.

[ChrisM4]

Hi does anyone know the specs of the exhaust valve housing bolts? (Length, M? X ?)

Thanks!

[montrokc]

Originally Posted by Davem4

This how I did the exhaust valve mod, took about 10mins and sounds much better. I used a hose clamp to hold valve open so it couldn’t rattle or come loose. For servo attachment just put a little pressure on the side and it slides out with the spring so can put it back on completely. Just wanted to share another option. Attachment 2734151

Attachment 2734152

Attachment 2734153

This worked exceptionally well once I worked up the courage to pry harder than I initially wanted to. I really like that the initial module can be bolted back on and the plug plugged back in. Clean OEM exterior appearance once you tuck the fastening wire of choice (mine was braided wire).

Think this is a good method for anyone concerned about warranty or service tech’s noticing the harness being unplugged, the module missing, or it being fastened in the open position.

Thank you.

[Koala0802]

Thanks all. I just did this and it’s amazing. I have 1000 miles on it, going for break in this weekend.

I have my exhaust coming next week.

Scorpion Axle back exhaust
NVM Downpipes
Avior Performance midpipe