[KermitM2]

Is it as easy as loosening the set screw and then using the included tool to rotate the blue part downward until it sits on the bottom black perch and that would be full low (20mm drop)?

The back is sitting where I want but the front is still a bit too high for me. I think they did 10mm drop all around based on my sheet from port.

[TopJimmy]

Yes, that’s the process. I wouldn’t go all the way to the bottom so it doesn’t get stuck. Also remember the tire is outward of the spring so adjustments multiply. On my F80 we needed a whole paint stick (3mm) between the nut and bottom, otherwise it was too low for city driving.

[KermitM2]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Yes, that’s the process. I wouldn’t go all the way to the bottom so it doesn’t get stuck. Also remember the tire is outward of the spring so adjustments multiply. On my F80 we needed a whole paint stick (3mm) between the nut and bottom, otherwise it was too low for city driving.

Thanks! Now, for clarification, if I bottom it out the max low is 20mm on MPHAS anyway so wouldn’t it only be a 20mm total drop? I don’t see why they’d leave room to go below that.

Should I expect the spring to also rotate or just the blue wrench side?

Will another alignment be needed?

[TopJimmy]

Engineers would leave a little extta room so things don’t get stuck. They measure by wheel center to render height, not drop by cm at the nut.

The spring will need to be held. The top mount allows rotation, if I remember right.

This minor change shouldn’t require a re-alignment, but if you were a track hound you’d do it anyway.

[freshxdough]

you likely need to take all the weight off the suspension and may even need to loosen the top nut to fully release all tension so you don’t damage threads.